July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
Climb a groove and then a hanging crack above. When it eases, climb the area on the right. Bolt belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
buttress in front of mad dog of the west,crack in hanging arete on left of wall.
up crack and then iether finish up groove or swing onto arete.
c.davies 1989.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jomo020 | 14 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The bolts have been removed from the block at the top. Belayed from a boulder back and left, and a spike at top of mad dog of the west. The groove must catch run-off from the crack in the overhang and was a total choss-fest. Pulled a large block off, then another small hand hold, and then a foot placement blew off as well. All in the top half of the groove before the crux. The big block removed what was a very convenient side-pull. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The bolts have been removed from the block at the top. Belayed from a boulder back and left, and a spike at top of mad dog of the west. The groove must catch run-off from the crack in the overhang and was a total choss-fest. Pulled a large block off, then another small hand hold, and then a foot placement blew off as well. All in the top half of the groove before the crux. The big block removed what was a very convenient side-pull. |
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Grade: E1 5a ***
(Australia)