The spooky headwall that looms above Black Magic is the Atlantic Coast's hardest and boldest lead to date. Start as for Black Magic at its short slab.1) 6a, 45m. Follow Black Magic until just beyond its distinct white quartz patch. Take the faint line of weakness that swoops out left into the centre of the shield. When directly below a small overlap, climb direct, making bold moves through the overlap to gain the ramp leading left to the Black Magic stance. A fine pitch.2) 6b, 40m. Move out left along a shelf until directly below a crystal pocket in the centre of the wall. Tricky, bold climbing gains the pocket (crucial friend 2.5 - the only gear before the crux). Move up right on crimps to gain a poor rest. Now follow a line of holds back left, heading towards the arete, until a very bold crux sequence enables a standing position on the arete to be gained. Move up to better holds and gear, and follow the much easier groove system to the top. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
100ft From the Black Magic stance, place a wire in the corner and shuffle with trepidation out along the ledge until below and just right of a blade peg. Make a long stretch for holds below the peg, from where it can be clipped and a fortuitous 2.5 cam placed in the pocket next to it. The last gear of anything more than psychological value... Some nice climbing leads up and right from here, past another blade which is in about 15mm, up to a slim and alarmingly expansive flake, behind which I tapped a final blade peg. Take a deep breath and make a precarious traverse out to a 'rest' in a vague depression a metre right of the arete. Throw destiny to the wind and climb up then move left to the right arete of the Eroica groove. After a move up the arete, a 'thank god' rockover leads back into classic ground and sanity... Finish up Eroica.
Dave Pickford Sep/2004
Ticklists: Atlantic Coast New Routes.