100ft From the Black Magic stance, place a wire in the corner and shuffle with trepidation out along the ledge until below and just right of a blade peg. Make a long stretch for holds below the peg, from where it can be clipped and a fortuitous 2.5 cam placed in the pocket next to it. The last gear of anything more than psychological value... Some nice climbing leads up and right from here, past another blade which is in about 15mm, up to a slim and alarmingly expansive flake, behind which I tapped a final blade peg. Take a deep breath and make a precarious traverse out to a 'rest' in a vague depression a metre right of the arete. Throw destiny to the wind and climb up then move left to the right arete of the Eroica groove. After a move up the arete, a 'thank god' rockover leads back into classic ground and sanity... Finish up Eroica.
Dave Pickford Sep/2004