UKC Logbook - 'Crimtyphon'

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Cornwall > Compass Point - Bude >

Crimtyphon

E2 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Snapping Bubblies

Every Rose has its Thorn >>

30m. Superbly formed rock and a secluded position. The finest pitch at Compass Point and one of the Culm Coast's enduring classics. Start right of the earth ramp below a large pocket at 4m. 25m. Easily gain a massive pocket and then climb to a peg up and to the left. Continue up with conviction to another large pocket and peg. Move out of the pocket leftwards with difficulty and gain the final shallow pocket, peg. Take the wall above past a further peg to the top. Awkward belays on the backside of the ridge. © ROCKFAX
Sustained, delicate slab climbing makes this the pick of the routes at Compass Point. Starting under the overhangs on the right of the slab, link the larger and smaller pockets trending leftwards before finishing the top half of the slab direct. Protected mostly by pegs, small nuts and cams are useful, as are larger gear for the belay.

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Prattling around as usual © Pete Debbage
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 127 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with Rob Greenwood

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with simon white, Joe Shipcott

Martin Bennett - Apr/13

cem - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Kirill - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Charles Moreton

Joel Perkin - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/13 with Mike Thorpe

Hidden - 2013

good! pegs are the main gear, but backed up within reason. first bit of bomber gear I felt was 1m from the top!
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Anna

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/12

gripped01 - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/12 with Mark Hill

Davebryant - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Sam Hann

Michael Aylen - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Macca

martin clarke - 2nd - 01/Jul/12 with john frost

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/12

dohart - 2nd - 26/Jun/12 with stu bradbury

E1 if the pegs would hold, e2 if they wouldn't. This was brilliant, non stressful climbing.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/12 with Jon Stewart

Okecroak - 2nd - 01/Jun/12 with W. Frost

I can't believe I actually lead this thing 23 years ago, the years have taken their toll on my abilities. My hardest climb in 23 years, even if it was second.
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd rpt - 25/May/12

Brilliant climb, very technical climbing, but with really good rests in between. Only bit sketchy for the leader would be the climb up to the first peg and past it, bit run out.
Joel Perkin - 2nd O/S - 16/May/12 with Simon Hammond

Soft for E2. Lots of rests ang pegs are in good condition. Maybe worth the grade if pegs were not used, natural protection is good. Nice climb though.
Spearos - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Mike

Stunning route and the pegs are in fairly good condition too.
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Catherine Jackson, Martin Kocsis

boyceyboy6 - 25/Mar/12

Tom Seccombe - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/12 with Ben Woods, tj murry

alan moore - 2012

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Superb.Probably E1 as pegs seem ok and are mainly ok to back up
just one more - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Max B, Phil K

Mark Kemball - Lead - 21/Sep/11 with Steph Le Cornu, Rob Keough

bobtheclimber - TR O/S - 21/Sep/11

Very nice climbing. E2 5c in my guidebook but i'd say 5b.
domskezz - Lead - 19/Sep/11 with Jamma

Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/11 with Stu

Doesn't look like much from below, but wow, the moment you step onto it you know this is gonna be one enjoyable ride. Feels easy when approached with E2 mindset.
msoldn - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Rory

One 50/50 moment at the top, but otherwise manageable. Beautiful, open face climbing on perfect rock.
ruaidh - 2nd - 14/Aug/11 with Michael

Excellent route with lots of nice technical climbing, gear is good, though spaced in places and there are so many pegs it's almost a sport route! Soft E2 all in all like most at this cliff...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Jo

Bit necky for E2, depending on how you feel about pegs in sea cliffs.
annetweddell - 2nd - 03/Aug/11 with Jeff

Country_Boy - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Stu Bradbury

tim exley - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11 with joe cossey

Beautiful . . Not sure I could lead it though, pretty desperate!
ParkFace - 2nd O/S - 25/May/11 with Pete Greening

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Carol

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

petellis - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Aly

Hidden - Lead - 26/Mar/11

bailed the lead
Tom Seccombe - TR rpt - 23/Feb/11 with tj murry

culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/10 with stevieo10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/10

Tom Seccombe - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Stu Bradbury

lovely stuff
middlemarker - 2nd - 29/Aug/10 with Mike R

Easy for 5b, not badly protected, never E2!
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with CarolineH

Hidden - 29/Jul/10

Lead on Mikes gear after he lead.
Chris_barr - Lead β - 13/Jun/10 with Mike

Hidden - Lead β - 01/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

Good pegs at present, and they can nearly all be backed up with reasonable gear. Enjoyable route.
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Gary Burgess

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/10

exelent climb first E2 first moves are the boldest then becomes easier as you get further left! defiantly worth 3 stars
surfboybert - Lead β - 07/Mar/10 with sam hinton

vertically_challenged - Lead rpt - Mar/10

JasonG - 2010

Hidden - 2010

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/09

Hidden - TR - 16/Apr/09

Great route. Pegs seemed in reasonable nick but glad I didn't fall on them.
climbingpixie - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/08 with James

Superb moves throughout. Pegs in good condition Jul 08. E2 5b but low in grade and certainly 3 stars.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/08 with Si

Excellent route - easy climbing but quite bold. You would deck out from the moves into the big pocket at 40'. Best E1 on the Culm?
chris sm - Lead rpt - 25/May/08 with Pippa Froggatt

Mike W - Lead O/S - May/08

Matt Vigg - 2008

Matt Vigg - Solo - 2008

JasonG - Lead O/S - 2008 with Kirsti Gordon

John Kettle - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Cool route. Given E2 5b in the current guide, and E1/2 5c in South West Climbs.
AJM - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with Dave Westlake

Have lead this a number of times before - an excellent route.
Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Jan/06 with Stacey Ward

Katy Nelson - 2nd dog - 18/Jun/05 with Mark Kemball

Hidden - Solo O/S - 10/May/05