|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Wrong description in guide book. Started at the first turfy grove on the left after the step on LHYG. Good climbing to a easier section followed by a harder crux groove with questionable turf, where my axes ripped (thankfully on second). Belayed in a rocky bay and james led the 2nd pitch up grade III ish turf and rock. Last pitch we made up which I led, found a very large and loose block above the gulley when torquing my axe in a crack so be careful.
first III 3 lead and as it turned out first IV 4 mixed climb in one. Iffy pitch lengths in description, ended up running first and what must have been most of the seccond into one after therye definitely being no snow bay at 40m. Ended up going off route to the right to belay off a large spike not much fancying running out of rope halfway up another aerated turf groove
Aimed for Left Hand Y Gully which I saw and thought was Right Hand Y Gully so went left onto this. Got to just above the circle on pg. 76 of North Wales Winter Climbing before backing off (felt harder than 4 (5?) getting that far!). Tried escaping up the thin snowy groove between the two routes which was a no go. Eventually traversed onto RHYG above the first icy step.
Started about 15 meters up lh y gully at first turfy line heading up left which was just after first icey step. First turfy groove for 10 meters was III 3 and lead to a snow bay extending another 10 meters. We believe guide mis described this as a 40 meter pitch, which accidentally coxed rob in to leading the crux (iv 4) steep and aerated turfy groove above. There was no snow bay after this and rob then when off route up and right on turf for another 10 metres to belay off a large spike which had old tat on it. We beat a route to the top from here taking the left hand turfy groove at about grade III 3, which was also off route as it would have been harder to get back on track, and then topped out on the hill for some great views. Guide book description likely wrong or needs better clarification. Also despite starting and finishing in approx right place we found the route length to be 95 metres(ish) not 120 as per description....