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Vía Gene** 5

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[Looking North. To the right; Pared de Los Alcoyanos., 2 kb]315m, 7 pitches. A good route following a strong natural line and with a grand finish. The whole thing can be managed on a single rope. Start at the groove where the name is scratched. We have done this one so you get a full description! 1) 4+, 45m. The vegetated groove, and its cleaner continuation lead to a tree belay. The groove 12m to the left is a better and cleaner alternative, with no change in the grade. 2) 4, 45m. Traverse diagonally right to a tree and continue past a pair of bolts to a belay on a pair of pegs. 3) 4+, 30m. Move right into a groove with a bush and climb this. At the its top move right up slabs to belay on a huge ledge. 4) 4+, 55m. Scramble up right to a left slanting break (possible belay), and climb this to a long ridge. Follow this to the top of a pillar and a two bolt belay in a corner. 5) 5, 50m. Move up and left into a groove and left again into another. Up this to an exit on the left to ledge and peg belay. 6) 5, 45m. Continue up the ridge (pegs) to reach a ledge just below the crest, single peg belay. 7) 3, 45m. Move up right onto the ridge and traverse right to first deep notch in the ridge, and a 3 bolt belay with wire cable. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes.

Photo: Looking North. To the right; Pared de Los Alcoyanos. © LAW
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 19 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

ASCENT: Some route finding difficulties as pitch lengths given are mostly too long and it is perfectly possible to do fewer longer pitches here as plenty of belaying opportunities. Ended up doing a harder looser variation higher up but still good although the harder routes in the area appear less vegetated. DESCENT: No problem abseiling off back in 2 abseils with single 70m rope, would have needed a third with a 60m. Much better, if you have double ropes, to abseil back down the west face off shiny bolts and chain which you can find at the same point on ridge, this brings you down to big ledge and avoid the steep scree slope at the back.
bridget143 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/14 with Simen

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Dec/13

Running_Board - AltLd O/S - 04/Nov/13

Very good route. 8 pitch Trad (VS). Alt leads but Lead the top two harder pitches. Top pitch is exposed and excellent.
Hotcake - AltLd - 05/Apr/13

7 Pitch trad
bluenose - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/13

Lead 1,3,5 &7. We backed off Delicatesan, but this saved the day. Done with 5 nuts and slings, but adequate fixed gear so safe.
tmawer - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/13 with chris king

auld al - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/13

Juan Ruiz - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Pablo Perea

I led pitches 1,3,4,5,7 and Jeanie led pitches 2 & 6.
Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/12 with Jeanie

Hidden - AltLd - 2012

7 Pitches, 315 meters.
Ash_Johnson - Lead O/S - Nov/11

mcphillipsa391 - AltLd - Nov/11

Christian Reynish - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/08 with Daffyd Jones

Spectacular location. So-so climbing. Christian & Alys 2nd party. Not obvious what happens after pitch 5/6. Took 2PB behind 2nd tree about 10m below ridge. Pitch lengths more like 30m, 30m, 30m, 55m, 25m, 40m, 45m. Descended in dark.
DafSWMC - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/08 with Melanie

TonyP - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/07 with M Green

LAW - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/06 with Chris NG, Mark B

Ramon Marin - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/05 with Gavin Lim

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/04 with Chris

Also Dave Checkley and Julie Wassell
Howard J - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/02 with John Waterhouse

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, carlh

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