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A good, adventurous day out! John Makin and I went back to successfully climb this route after having to back off because of bad weather on our previous trip. Route finding is tricky in places and you need to treat quite a lot of it as a trad route. There is quite a lot of loose rock on the lower pitches, but the quality of the climb improves and the top pitches are fantastic. The crux can be easily free climbed at 6a/6a+ and you can place plenty of gear (which is worth doing, as a fall by either climber would result in them hanging in space on the blank wall below! If either party is pushing their grade, it may be worth discussing how you'd deal with this, as lowering them off isn't an option ;) ) I was annoyed with myself for being drawn in by the description of aiding the crux pitch, as I pulled on an early bit of gear and then found the pitch pretty straight forward to free, and hence lost the on-sight because of one move! ;) The crux pitch can also be broken down and an additional belay added at the end of the main traverse section, which could mean that the second could continue up to the top from here and the crux pitch be shared. We started quite late for such a route, as a result of John's poor naviagtional skills on the drive there! ;) This resulted in a bit of added presure on the crux, but it went well and we topped out to a beautiful sunset and walked off with head torches!
carlh - AltLd dog - 02/Nov/13
Waited all morning for the rain to clear and for the sun to come around onto the face to dry the route. It did and John Makin and I walked in feeling positive. Unfortunately, we then had to deal with gail force winds (not forecast!). We battled our way up the first pitch in an attempt to get established on the route, but had to call it a day and back off as the winds rattled along the crag at 60-70mph. Very disapointing as it's a lovely looking line, but at least we have a good excuse to go back!
carlh - AltLd dnf - 21/Jan/13
Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jan/13
Led p2, 4 & 6. Free climbed the crux pitch, so I'm claiming the 6b tick
cem - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/12 with Dave Amos
Excellent route, led pitches 2,4 & 6
John Roe - AltLd - 19/Nov/09 with Iain (Jocky) Marr