A popular Pembrokeshire classic which is one the best VS routes around. It climbs the huge arete of the main face of Saddle Head, above a tide-washed platform. Access is tricky and the overall atmosphere is added to by the awkward approach. Start as described above.1) 4a, 28m. Climb a weakness on the left-hand side of the arete to reach a groove. Follow this onto the arete and then step right and climb the rugged cracked wall to a ledge and cave stance.2) 4b, 28m. Climb up a crack above the stance and continue in a great position up the arete to enter the wide finishing groove. © Rockfax
P Littlejohn, J Harwood 08/Apr/1978
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Warm and decided half-way to do it in one pitch. No point breaking into 2 unless to ease communications.
Fun climb. Nice exposure up the arÍte.
Abseiled in at high tide. Felt very shakey and nervous on the first pitch - frustrating. But soon kicked back into action on 2nd pitch absolutely loving it.
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||02/Aug||AltLd||
Led 1st pitch. Top Tip: There's a lovely thread belay on the right of the cave.
Led the top pitch. What a climb!
Started half way up P1 as tide was high. Lead both pitches. Good practice setting up belay directly from abseiling. Very enjoyable and sustained climbing
|Steve Bartle||07/Jun||AltLd O/S||
We managed to ab all the way to the wave-washed slab, so could do the whole of both pitches. I led the first pitch (beware some of the slime after a few metres!), Stu led the second. This climb takes you to some great exposed positions, on mostly great sharp jugs. Big blue DMM torque nut or similar is handy for the belay at the cave
|ian d f||30/May||2nd O/S||
I love abbing into the unknown, ended hanging in free space above water and I had to make weird movements to pendulum back on rock. Super.
Lead p1 where the cave offers a lovely belay stance with excellent pro. Karl led the second pitch.
Climbed at high tide- Flavio abbed down and made a hanging belay. Lovely moves and a stonking thread belay between pitches!
Went the right way this time. Wouldnt say top 50, but a worthwhile outing for sure!
Second pitch only
|tim newton||05/Apr||2nd O/S|
|Nathan Chrismas||05/Apr||Lead O/S||
Fantastic exposure stepping out onto the arete. Lovely route, deserves its stars.
|Rachel Slater||05/Apr||Lead O/S|
|Jake Young||05/Apr||AltLd O/S|
|Nick Russell||04/Apr||Lead O/S||
After the wet slimy start, the first pitch was great! The second a bit more awkward, harder, and not as enjoyable.
Extremely slimy and slippy at the bottom, but after that the first pitch was great: steep pulling on massive holds, sometimes with some cool exposure. Second pitch fine but not quite as good (and slightly trickier).
Easy and enjoyable climb! Holds everywhere
|Pete Randall||06/Sep/14||AltLd O/S||
Led P2. Kat led P1 from high tide belay.
|Richard P Coates||20/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
In one pitch from high tide belay
|adam clarke||19/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
Led both pitches. Never too technical but sustained, steep and superbly positioned
Aaron O'Leary, Tom Dewhurst
|jon bradley||21/Jun/14||AltLd rpt||
Me P1, Jon P2
|Rose Williams||01/Jun/14||AltLd O/S||
|John Pickles||31/May/14||Lead O/S|
On second pitch from ab in. Cat abseiled into wrong route and we had to do landvetter for first pitch with incoming tide at our feet
Harry, Andy F
|Big Lee||18/Apr/14||AltLd O/S||
Led the first pitch. Both pitches excellent and exposed. Started from the wave-washed platform. A really great route.
|Murilo Lessa||18/Apr/14||AltLd O/S||
Lead 2nd pitch. Really cool route. Soft but enjoyed freaking much.
Tide not quite low enough to allow access to base, so abbed in, in slightly the wrong place. Found the route intimidating, although not very hard overall. Great climbing.
|luke glaister||16/Feb/14||AltLd O/S||
Amazing route. As good as it gets at vs. Kc first pitch. Me sec. Great gear and positions all the way. The abseil down adds to the adventure. 3***s
|casey johns||16/Feb/14||AltLd O/S||
Pitch 1 great vs.
Andrew willie wilson, luke glaister
|Andrew will wilson||??/2014||-|
Lead first pitch, Jim lead second pitch. Amazing route.
Amazing route, did second pitch. Big thanks to the girls whose ab rope we borrowed!
Only did second pitch due to tide.
|Helen Gibson||20/Sep/13||Lead O/S||
in the clag!
|Liam Ingram||31/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
In 1 pitch. Utterly awesome - Best VS sea cliff route in the UK?
Lovely line, easy at VS
|Phil West||28/Aug/13||AltLd O/S||
Led 2nd pitch.
Lowered in to well above sea level at high tide to get route done before it got busy, A huge wave decided to completely drench us anyway!
cloudburst half way up, had to climb the second pitch in torrential rain to get back up. not ideal.....
|Curly Rich||10/Aug/13||AltLd O/S||
GMC Peter Neden
Led P1, Tom led P2.
|joe gallacher||21/Jul/13||Lead O/S||
Big jugs , oodles of gear , first pitch was more like Severe , second pitch touch harder .
Absolutely superb - I really can't think of a better VS anywhere. This one has it all - great line, great positions, steep but full of holds and gear, and a seal!
Good. Swam in after ab rope got stuck, and had to clamber up to the refuge belay to escape the rising tide.
|Nigel R Lewis||07/Jul/13||AltLd||
lead 2nd pitch. Brilliant!
|Gareth T||07/Jul/13||AltLd O/S||
Set up belay at high tide refuge then gave up and prussic'd out - will be back next time!
|Giles Davis||08/Jun/13||2nd O/S|
Absolutely terrific route for the grade. Climbed from the high tide belay
Be warned...Rockfax diagram is crap...as is the CC one. Read the CC guide description and keep right. dont get drawn in to the left grove as shown in both the photos.
Lead the second pitch. Every bit the classic that the guide book promised. Amazing climb.
Stunning climb. Amazing setting and exposure. Absolute must at Pembroke.
Alex McDougall, Kyle Wilson
Went down to do Landvetter but it was very wet and v.v green so decided to do Blue Sky again. I led P1, Si P2
|Becky E||05/May/13||AltLd O/S||
Led P1. Lovely.
|Graeme Hammond||05/May/13||AltLd O/S||
Excellent! Led pitch 2
|Glyn Davidson||04/May/13||Lead O/S||
2nd pitch only
|Jules Lane||03/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
Awesome route and awesome abseil in. Even at low tide the platform was not clear so started from the refuge belay half way up P1. Generally not hard for 4b (other than one move or 2 moves) with great holds all the way, but many moves have that 'heart in the mouth' feeling due to fantastically exposed positions. We had a bit of a cafuffle due to one rope getting terminally tangled when I was 3/4 up P1, so had to finish to finish it and bring Paul up to the cave belay on 1 rope. As we sat in the sun 25m above a blue sea under a blue sky sorting it out it was the best place to be. P2 was a total delight and topped out in the setting sun. Great job by Paul, for whom this was his first 'real' pembroke experience.
lead 2nd pitch
I led P2 Brad P1
I led the first pitch.
Great fun including the abseil in - the key is to keep moving right.
|Graham Westbrook||01/Sep/12||AltLd O/S|
|Half Pint Lizz||23/Aug/12||2nd||
Fiona McFarlane, Helen King
As one pitch, superb route.
2 pitches, abseil in, John Harrison leading.
Both pitches this time. John lead it as one awesome mega pitch on 60m ropes. Fantastic
John Norman, Jayne
|Fiona McFarlane||?/Aug/12||Lead O/S|
|david wands||26/Jul/12||AltLd O/S||
Sea very rough so only managed top pitch, but what a pitch! Will have to go back and do the whole thing
Marion, John Norman
|Brian Moseley||24/Jun/12||2nd O/S||
Second pitch only due to tide
Last pitch only, high tide.
|Dan Lane||23/Jun/12||Lead O/S||
2nd pitch only, the waves were big and getting the whole of the first pitch totally soaked every five minutes. Atmospheric to say the least!
Could only do the top pitch as the waves were too big. Great climbing. Brilliant position. Best climb of the weekend
|Alex Thompson||23/Jun/12||2nd O/S||
Top pitch as a fairly rough high tide
just the top pitch, tide was in and waves were up
I led P1, Rob P2
Paul Horabin, Ade
Lead the 2nd pitch
From the bottom platform scrambled up 5 or so meters to belay ledge, Byron did went too far left and did first pitch of HVS 4c, which was brilliant. At the pocketed cave area he belayed, and I traveresed right to get back on line. still convinced I was on the wrong line, I climbed the line of most resistance, to ensure I wasn't escaping off. As a result, missed the massive ladder of jugs and easy angled ground, and took some lovely exposed groove/ arete features instead, which probably wernt much more than VS anyway. A classic route, in a stunning position non the less.
First pitch lead. Hanging belay lapped by the waves!
|sara n||09/Apr/12||AltLd O/S|
Lead p2 which was really good much better than p1. On a par with Eaves Dropper which we did by mistake before.
|dj hannaford||??/2012||Lead O/S|
We did this, but I cannot remember when...
|Ollie B||29/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
in 1 pitch
Low tide, led both pitches
Led P2. Had to build the belay for P1 part of the way up Eaves Dripper as the tide had come in and the waves were enormous. Jason then traversed around the corner to re-establish us on Blue Sky. Minor epic with the dodgy hanging belay, fading light, high winds and rough seas. Jason built the belay with quickdraws(!!) so I had 6 draws for P2 and when Jason came up on second it turned out he couldn't get one of my cams out. I had to be lowered down, and got it out easily. When we got to the carpark it turned out everyone had left without us so we had to walk to the pub carrying all of our crap, including the ab rope.
Big seas, windy, late in the day. Marianne didn't belay at the normal high tide start. I traversed back on route, led P1, M P2.
|Simon Holden (LCandCC)||27/Aug/11||2nd O/S||
Jess P, Mike Thomas
Led the second pitch.
|tumbling wizard||?/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
started at high tide belay did the first pitch of eavesdropper by mistake then did the correct last pitch
|Andy Peak 1||12/May/11||AltLd||
|Ewan Russell||02/May/11||AltLd O/S||
2nd pitch. Made johns life hard for a variety of reasons :). Did huntmans leap after john did some hs
Lead with one rock shoe, one trainer due to toe pain. Managed to veer off onto the HVS on the left and enjoy some 4c moves in inappropriate footwear. Great route.
Led 1st pitch
A true Classic.
Massive waves so top pitch only.
|The Ivanator||26/Feb/11||Lead O/S||
Second pitch only, from Eavesdripper belay due to wild sea. Absolutely fantastic climb, and top atmosphere with crashing waves and setting sun.
High tide start
|Andy Peak 1||??/2011||-|
|gareth r||??/2011||Lead O/S||
Just second pitch as waves were reaching first stance!!!
Abbed in to do it an got drenched from head to toe trying to go to the belay I went from before, had to go back up and belayed by the cave. The waves still reached me! Awesome situation!
had to wait two hours as another party had just started it when we got there (bank holiday weekend) only did the second pitch as heavy seas were splashing lower down
led 2nd pitch
|John Brayshaw||27/Aug/10||AltLd O/S||
TT Climbed from platform at low tide. Good climbing and great position, but feels soft for VS
Led 1st pitch. Great exposure and position - easier and less daunting than I was expecting.
Si lead first pitch, I led the second.
Or was most of it Eavesdropper! Either way a great climb with wonderful traverse at the top but ending up at the top of Blue Skies.
|Paul Bowen||31/May/10||Lead rpt||
|Julian Prieto||29/May/10||2nd O/S||
Ollie started lead on pitch 1 but about 15 feet up he couldn't find good gear and stopped for a long time. Tide was coming in with big swell and I got soaked to the skin. Ollie ended up getting top roped on the ab rope and I then followed.
|Edd Reed||10/Apr/10||AltLd O/S||
Second pitch definitely harder than the first.
Martin Allen, Donna Mawson
I did second pitch
Martin Allen, Edd Reed
|Jessie Rushbrooke||?/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
|irish paul||14/Mar/10||AltLd O/S||
|Andy White||07/Mar/10||2nd O/S||
|Ed morris||21/Feb/10||Lead O/S||
steep and juggy, brilliant!!
|Different Steve||19/Sep/09||AltLd rpt||
A huge classic great for it's grade
|Steve Hill||20/Jun/09||Lead O/S||
Started from the high water line
High tide start
|Neil Pacey||24/May/09||Lead O/S|
Very steep, feels exposed, would have gibbered if leading
|Dr Caterpillar||19/Apr/09||AltLd O/S||
led most of p1, sea cliffs get my nerves jittery
Ab'd in. I lead first pitch, James lead second.
Pretty much climbed Eavesdripper but ended up on Blue Sky
Tom first me second.
|Ed Booth||12/Sep/08||Lead O/S||
Second pitch only as waves were hitting the belay ledge!! Nice sunset behind.
Done in one pitch from about 30 feet up. Nice route.
|Lauren Davies||?/May/08||Lead O/S||
|Dave Westby||?/Apr/08||AltLd O/S||
Superb climbing on big holds. Spectacular ab down.
|Owen W-G||15/Sep/07||AltLd O/S||
Led P2. Abed into the wrong spot so had a bit of a palaver before setting off proper.
|Tim W||02/Jun/07||AltLd O/S||
Lead 2nd pitch
Lead first pitch, amazing!
Led 1st pitch. Was a bit confused by the guidebook decription (and still am), so quite possibly climbed Eaves Dripper instead. Quite an athmospheric route in any case.
Only did top pitch as waves were breaking over the belay ledge, a rather atmospheric lead.
|Fat Tim||14/Apr/07||Lead O/S|
|Pete Horn||??/2007||AltLd O/S||
|Ramon Marin||10/Sep/06||2nd O/S||
got lost !!!!had epic
epic top pitch
First VS lead!
|Howard J||25/Aug/05||AltLd rpt||
Very wet with spray so carried on up Eaves Dripper before moving right to the belay. Pity to miss out the wall though
Tim & Adrian
|brian watson||17/Jul/05||Lead O/S||
|victim of mathematics||30/May/05||2nd O/S|
Backed off lead and so decided to second.
first climb after my big fall, great climb but concentrating too much to really appretiate it, climb second pitch
|Howard J||26/Aug/04||AltLd rpt||
|Abi Chard||?/Aug/04||Lead O/S|
not sure how much caz enjoyed the abseil and hanging belay above a rough sea. I enjoyed it though!
hans allnut, simon ball, farrow
|easily amused male||?/Apr/03||Lead O/S|
|Howard J||24/Aug/02||AltLd O/S||
Went too far up Eavesdripper
|nige pacer||?/May/02||Lead O/S|
|chris wyatt||??/2002||Lead O/S||
Lead the climb in one long pitch.
Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss
|belay bunny turned bad||??/2001||Lead|
I led the second pitch
|Paul Boardman||??/1997||Lead O/S||
|craig h||09/Sep/95||AltLd O/S||
|Colin Edwards||21/Aug/95||Lead O/S||
Simon Gough Brown
|andrzej kierzek||?/May/94||AltLd O/S||
Climbing with Dave Martin. I lead first pitch.
Did easier 2nd pitch - it was a HS back then ! An absolute classic - the step into space near the end of the first pitch was terrifying - even as a second !
|Jelly Mould Surfer||??/1988||AltLd||