Rockfax Description
One thing that makes a route truly great is when it goes somewhere that you don't think is possible at the grade. Pleasure Dome must be one of the most classic examples of such a route. It is quite a hard E3 but it is only E3. Climb the rib to the right of the trench to a ledge. Step up to gain the flakeline and follow it rightwards with just enough runners and nowhere near enough foot-holds. Where it blanks out, make a hard move to a non-rest at the top of a rightwards-facing ramp. Move up to some good gear, then climb back down, then move up again and back down, and up and down. Finally pull up again, slightly right of the obvious line and move left to a ledge below the easy finishing corner. Sort your runners out to reduce the rope drag. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn 6.4.80 06/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Very good routes in the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist.

Ella7 20/Sep 2nd dog

Amazing, atmospheric route! Couldn't do the hard move across after the pedestal.

spidermonkey09 20/Sep Lead

Revenge! After having to prussik out last year felt pretty cruisey this year although the span into the ramp felt hard. The non-rest was actually pretty restful with sport climbing fitness and going the right way also helped a lot!

poeter210 06/Sep 2nd dog

Amazing, for me a truly aspirational route

with argentinian machine
druss 06/Sep 2nd dog

WOW! One of my best routes to date. Excellent clean lead from Roberto. A little disappointed I didn't have the puff to pull through the first crux. Did the rest clean.

with Roberto Fernandez
amccann 18/Aug Lead dog

Got to the end of the traverse and after going backwards and forwards didn't feel strong enough to get into the non-rest and on through the crux. Didn't fancy prussiking back up after a fall, so just hung on the gear and had a rest. In hindsight I would have probably just about got through, but it would have been close...

Brian H 17/Aug 2nd rpt

Led this about 20 years ago. Felt hard following Pete today. Top end E3.

harry_lewis 17/Aug 2nd O/S
pete johnson 13/Aug Lead rpt
with Dave Rumney
Dave Rumney 13/Aug 2nd

drizzly and damp conditions

with Pete Johnston
benkelsey 10/Aug 2nd O/S

Kinda pushed shaun into this but not a bad effort despite the rest at the crux. One that's much easier to second. Wish we'd both taken notice of the guide saying just right of the obvious line. Hard but so good.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 10/Aug Lead dog

MEGA!! ben said he would do it if i didnt, so would have been rude not to get on it! found the traverse abit scary and nearly came off getting the the undercut, Then placed about 6 pieces of gear and pumped out! definitely one to come back for!

Dan724 11/Jul Lead G/U
CharlieMack 27/Jun 2nd dog

Went way too direct after the traverse. Took two falls before seeing the holds further right. Rookie error.

with Angus
anguskille 27/Jun Lead O/S

awesome, deserves the reputation. amazing ground to cover for a (hardish) E3

Hidden 21/Jun Lead O/S
Mark Grist 23/May Lead O/S

Such a good route......happy to get this in perfect conditions in the shade. The two in situ wires helped.

with Paul Tanton
PaulTanton 23/May 2nd rpt

This is Pembroke at it's best

adam 24 09/May Lead dog

Total sandbag. Finished the traverse quickly and felt as if I was going well. Hard move onto the ramp got me quite pumped then discovered the crux holds were soaking wet. There is only one good piece of gear here and the move above is very confusing. Very annoyed to blow the onsight.

with Caroline
Hidden 09/May 2nd β
Hidden 05/Apr 2nd O/S
Tom Livingstone 05/Apr 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr Lead O/S
i_a_coops 14/Mar Lead

Seconded last year I believe. Bit wet but still amazing

with Harry
spidermonkey09 13/Sep/14 Lead dog

Came off at the crux after the traverse- one move away! Really hard but awesome route. Had to be lowered an ab rope as moronically only had one prussik on me and landed in what looked like solid E5 territory.

simon kimber 06/Sep/14 Lead

holey moley! probably the best E3 I've ever done!

with Rob Andrews
Apharri 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Stunning, but nails E3. Hard for shorties I reckon

with Dave Wharton
tim newton 14/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 14/Aug/14 2nd RP
3 Names 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 13/Jul/14 Lead β

Seconded this twice before. If you soloed this and fell off the crux you would actually land in the sea... just sayin.

Hidden 13/Jun/14 2nd O/S
quiffhanger 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Felt harder than I remembered it being! Got pumped!

will_benfold 01/Jun/14 2nd dog

Lasted until the end of the traverse, was then too pumped and had to rest.

Nick Russell 31/May/14 Lead O/S

... by the skin of my teeth. Faffed around at the non-rest for about half an hour, finally figured out to step right a bit where it was pleasantly easy (technical crux is surely the last move on the traverse?). Awesome route, possibly the best E3 I've done yet, committing with massive exposure! At about 90 minutes it must also be the longest I've spent leading a route.

alastairbegley 31/May/14 2nd

Read the route incorrectly at the end, gutted!

jonleighton 16/May/14 Lead dog

Not a warm up. Took a big whipper off the crux... we couldn't get our nut out after that! (You're welcome!)

Justin T 04/May/14 2nd
with Rachel
Rachel Slater 04/May/14 Lead dog

Should have had this but didn't want to commit! Hung on to a sloper for ages with no feet until I was too pumped to hold on. Not a great warm-up but I will be back!

simon kimber 21/Apr/14 Lead dog

got really pumped, put too much gear in, went the wrong way at the crux etc.

with Rich Howell
shed_hed 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Superb route! Dougie didn't hang around to place gear on the traverse which added a bit of spice to seconding it.

dswansonlow 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Julian Cooper 16/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Stuart Knott
ejected ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
gazhbo 13/Oct/13 Lead O/S
robgixer 05/Oct/13 2nd
masa-alpin 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic route - so far the best route in Pembroke I have climbed! Very technical (a bit harder for me, a very shorty) and both climbing and interestingness were sustained in a superb and exposed position!! I couldn't afford to put much gear in traverse, which was a bit scary for my second (thanks, Rob!). 4th E3 on this day - my PB as well.

with Rob G
James Oswald 06/Sep/13 Lead dog

The 4th E3 I've tried and it felt very tough, climbed when fairly tired (4th day on) and feeling very psyched out after looking at the top section from above.. Setting out on the route I felt nervous and got cramp in my biceps when placing the first couple of bits of gear. I reversed the moves and rested which didn't make me feel any more relaxed. I then decided that if I didn't try it now I never would so I decided just to go for it. I climbed up to my previous highpoint then climbed across the traverse as quickly as I could, placing a couple of pieces of gear at each rest. At the final rest, nearing the end of the traverse I was VERY pumped . Not really thinking and climbing completely on instinct, I set off on the crux traverse section skipping the poor crimps, cutting loose on the jugs and throwing myself onto the sloping ledge. Pumped solid, I managed to place the yellow cam and a red one but I was far too pumped to recover atall in the resting position. I then got pretty psyched out by the crux section above and had a long rest on the gear. After the rest the crux felt fine, amazing moves. One to come back to when slightly more confident on pumpy route... Great but tough E3.

Ed morris 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Mind blowing exposure for the grade. Climbed in the full heat of the sun. Not to much drag despite some shoddy ropework.

with -martin
John Nuttall 31/Aug/13 2nd

Seconded with a rest on the rope. Enjoyed and quite chuffed. Led 1989.

with Jon
victim of mathematics 18/Aug/13 2nd dog

Armfail. Cool route though.

with Andy
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/13 2nd β
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Tom Livingstone 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith ?/Aug/13 -
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
davidliu 27/Jul/13 2nd β
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd β
brices 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

In the full heat of the day never been so sweaty on a route, such a good route

Daniel Heath 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Bit of a reckless lead after realizing I was too tired to try anything harder. Soon got stuck and pumped after the brown ramp. Eventually went right (with direction from Remus) to the non-obvious crimpy wall and pulled through by the skin of my teeth.

with Remus
Hidden 15/Jun/13 2nd dnf
Ollie B 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Not as hard as I was expecting. A few crimpy pulls and its all over. Excellent

with D.Campbell
Duncan Campbell 01/Jun/13 2nd

Awesome and really pumpy though with probably only a handfull of hard moves!

with Ollie B
AlexD 17/Sep/12 2nd
with Ed
al99 16/Sep/12 Lead dog

Misread the route description and faffed around trying to go straight up from the block on the traverse. By the time I realised I was pretty pumped and had to rest on the gear moving up the steep wall after the crux. A bit Pd off.

with Luke Thomas
tom106 11/Aug/12 Lead β
quiffhanger 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Amazing position & perfect line with bomber gear & great moves. Only regret is that, for maximum excitement, I didn't do it a little earlier in my Pembroke apprenticeship.

with Tom
Dizz 29/Jul/12 2nd


with Hugh T
Hidden 14/Jul/12 Lead dog
eddy-on-the-rocks 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Superb route - captain pumpsville and I did the up and down thing exactly as the guide book suggests.

with Dan
Hidden ?/Jun/12 -
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead dnf
dan gibson 05/May/12 Lead rpt
with richard lade
Hidden 08/Apr/12 2nd β
bigie bob 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Justin T 06/Apr/12 2nd
with Cherry
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Nick Sillem ??/2012 -
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Not bad crux when you work it out, super pumpy though!

with Mike
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead dnf
markalmack 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S


with jacqui savage
jacobjlloyd 02/Jul/11 Lead dnf

too tired. Seems like quite a route though! Ended up soloing up for the gear. Not sure how that works - fell off it but felt totally solid soloing up and down to my high point.

Chi Cheng 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Pippa 24/Apr/11 2nd
with Jon
switch 26/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Paul Boggis ??/2011 2nd
mwatson ??/2011 -
Ed Babs 27/Sep/10 Lead dog

And 17 September 2012 with AlexD. Late in the day in a strong wind and over a big sea. Got one move further before the pump got me again. Superb second by Alex. A great route to have as as a nemesis!

with Harry
ian caton 30/Aug/10 2nd β

got pressured and wet from enormous swells smashing around the lower belay. so much so i only tied into the rope leading to far end of traverse. didn't care was just glad to be away from the water. went ok, just kept clipping rope into runners in front of me.

with alex
Mr Sparkle 30/Aug/10 2nd dog
liamoloughlin 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Really good. Don't clip your second rope till the end if the traverse (after the crux)!

Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead dog
Misha 29/Aug/10 Lead dog

Excellent route but not one to hang around on. The traverse was fine until a couple of tricky moves to reach a very poor rest. First mistake was not trying to find a better rest - think there might have been one a bit lower down - or just carrying on. Second mistake was trying to go straight up but then realised that going further right was going to be easier and also rememebered that the guide book referred to climbing up slightly right of the obvious line. Last mistake was hanging around for ages on the crimps out right rather than just going for it. Ended up slumping on the gear after getting totalling pumped. Had a good rest and finished it, though was still quite hard for a few moves until got established above the crimps. My greatest failure so far this year.

with Phil
philhilo 29/Aug/10 2nd dog

Intimidating traverse, sent for prussicks just incase. Sustained on arms to hard moves to crimpy crux - finally arms gave in.Would be nice to get on the lead.

with misha
drysori 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Made the mistake of "resting" and have never been so close to coming off without actually doing it. A proper sport climbing mentality got me through it, knowing that I could recover on the next crimp and make the move with the smaller foothold. Best experience in years. This has been on my list for a long time, and I was terrified of it!

with Alex
mattnuttall 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Superb... pumpy.

with Ian Heginbotham
david morse 27/Aug/10 Lead RP

took the whip last summer when I went the wrong way, seems to be a common theme. good to get the route done. very pumpy, felt harder than bloody sunday. read the topo description. AMAZING

with siobhan
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd
drcorbasisgod 26/Aug/10 Lead O/S


Alex Mason 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, but hard moves on the traverse for shorties. One of UKs best E3's for sure.

with Mikey G
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with steveE9
Chubbard 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S


with Ray
billb ?/Aug/10 Lead dog
Ed Booth 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 19/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Chad123 22/May/10 AltLd rpt

Multi pitch!! Em started it, got hot and bothered and belayed on the traverse before the hard climbing, I finished it off and found it easier than last time (without the rope drag!) Great route...

with Emily
Ben1983 02/May/10 Lead dog
irish paul 01/May/10 Lead dog

One lob off the crux, didn't go far enough right, lovely route mind, it'll go...

with Dave Ripley
Hidden 01/May/10 2nd dog
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/09 Lead O/S
alaan 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 27/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Ian Broome 27/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Al
timbanton 27/Jun/09 Lead dog
DafSWMC 20/Jun/09 2nd dog

Stunning climbing. Had to rest before the last hard move.

Toby Dunn 25/May/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
datoon 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with K
gforce 07/Aug/08 Lead dog

With one fall and perhaps a touch of French Free. Really suffered on the crux. Must return for a more pleasurable experience.

with Jason
Tim M 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 02/Aug/08 2nd
dannyboy83 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mike Soldner
Mark D 07/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Ant
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mark (UBMC)
bfreeman 05/May/08 Lead
with Tim Marjot
tlmarjot 03/May/08 2nd dog
with Ben Freeman
Docent 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with stecu
ASchwirtz 25/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Neil Hills
Jus ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/07 Lead dog
feilx 24/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Steve P
Hidden 20/May/07 Lead O/S
bronsonite 08/May/07 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
Ram MkiV 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with Al
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
mgeek ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with ged& matty
chris j 01/Jul/06 2nd dog
with Ben Bradford
dan gibson 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Mark Riley 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Steve
Adam Ellwood 13/May/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Parton
Chad123 ?/Apr/06 Lead dog

Classic, wish I'd got it clean! Had repeated goes at last hard move and just gave up!

with Huw
Boy ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 2nd O/S
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Paz 31/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with `Ozzy' G
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jun/04 Lead rpt
with Viv
Gus 30/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/03 Lead O/S
ian caton ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with stewart
buzby78 07/May/02 Lead
Adam Lincoln ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
WB ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Emyr
belay bunny turned bad ??/2001 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Laramadness 29/Jul/00 2nd β
with RF
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 -
ellis ?/Sep/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/99 Lead rpt
nickdonohue 30/Aug/98 2nd

2 hard sequences (5c); good feeling of exposure; derek practically soloed the bottom bit (before the traverse right) to avoid problems with rope drag

with Derek Ashworth
innes ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Jon Bracey
Hidden 03/May/98 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 01/May/98 Lead O/S
with Diane Merrick, SCUM
Hidden 24/Aug/97 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/97 2nd rpt
sadams 29/Mar/97 2nd
with John Boyle
bill1 23/Jul/96 Lead O/S

awesome route

Hidden 05/Apr/96 Lead O/S
craig h ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
Roget 21/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
michael burrows 01/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with john roberts
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 2nd
with Graham Iles
keefe 17/Apr/93 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 17/Apr/93 -
with keefe
Hidden ?/Sep/92 AltLd
jfletcher 10/Jun/92 Lead O/S

Also solo, I think a year or so later.

Hidden 01/Jun/92 2nd dog
steve taylor ?/Aug/90 2nd
with Jim Waddington
Bruce Kerr 16/Apr/90 Lead
Rich Kirby 15/Apr/90 2nd O/S
Dave Rumney ??/1990 Lead
Billg ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/89 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1989 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/88 Lead
Hidden 22/Feb/88 Lead dog
shark 27/May/87 Lead rpt
Dave Musgrove 21/Apr/87 Lead β
with Pete Finklaire
Steve Crowe 17/Apr/87 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1987 -
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
Gregory ?/Aug/86 Lead O/S

skin of teeth, post-uni finals trip, blazing sunshine and lots of beers

with terry ralphs
shark 17/Apr/85 Lead dog
with Richard O Mara
steve L 02/Jun/84 Lead
with Clive Curle
Dave Musgrove 26/Apr/84 AltLd
with Paul Dawson
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
Mark Kemball 29/Apr/83 2nd
with Dave Kenyon
Mike Owen 05/Apr/83 -
with Phil Ralph
Hidden 28/Apr/82 Lead
Mark Kemball 11/Apr/82 AltLd
with Chris Calow
Lone Rider ??/1982 -
Hidden 06/Jun/81 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High E4
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Votes cast 58
High 6a
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Low 6a
High 5c
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High 5b
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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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