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Pleasure Dome*** E3 5c

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[Pleasure Dome, 2 kb]One thing that makes a route truly great is when it goes somewhere that you donít think is possible at the grade. Pleasure Dome must be one of the most classic examples of such a route. It is quite a hard E3 but it is only E3. Climb the rib to the right of the trench to a ledge. Step up to gain the flakeline and follow it rightwards with just enough runners and nowhere near enough foot-holds. Where it blanks out, make a hard move to a non-rest at the top of a rightwards-facing ramp. Move up to some good gear, then climb back down, then move up again and back down, and up and down. Finally pull up again, slightly right of the obvious line and move left to a ledge below the easy finishing corner. Sort your runners out to reduce the rope drag. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pat Littlejohn 6.4.80 06/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Very good routes in the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist.

Photo: Pleasure Dome © graeme thomson
View all 13 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 167 logbooks, and on 53 wishlists.

Superb route! Dougie didn't hang around to place gear on the traverse which added a bit of spice to seconding it.
shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Julian Cooper - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/14 with Stuart Knott

gazhbo - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/13

robgixer - 2nd - 05/Oct/13

Fantastic route - so far the best route in Pembroke I have climbed! Very technical (a bit harder for me, a very shorty) and both climbing and interestingness were sustained in a superb and exposed position!! I couldn't afford to put much gear in traverse, which was a bit scary for my second (thanks, Rob!). 4th E3 on this day - my PB as well.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Rob G

The 4th E3 I've tried and it felt very tough, climbed when fairly tired (4th day on) and feeling very psyched out after looking at the top section from above.. Setting out on the route I felt nervous and got cramp in my biceps when placing the first couple of bits of gear. I reversed the moves and rested which didn't make me feel any more relaxed. I then decided that if I didn't try it now I never would so I decided just to go for it. I climbed up to my previous highpoint then climbed across the traverse as quickly as I could, placing a couple of pieces of gear at each rest. At the final rest, nearing the end of the traverse I was VERY pumped . Not really thinking and climbing completely on instinct, I set off on the crux traverse section skipping the poor crimps, cutting loose on the jugs and throwing myself onto the sloping ledge. Pumped solid, I managed to place the yellow cam and a red one but I was far too pumped to recover atall in the resting position. I then got pretty psyched out by the crux section above and had a long rest on the gear. After the rest the crux felt fine, amazing moves. One to come back to when slightly more confident on pumpy route... Great but tough E3.
James Oswald - Lead dog - 06/Sep/13 with Jon Stewart

Mind blowing exposure for the grade. Climbed in the full heat of the sun. Not to much drag despite some shoddy ropework.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with -martin

Seconded with a rest on the rope. Enjoyed and quite chuffed. Led 1989.
John Nuttall - 2nd - 31/Aug/13 with Jon

Armfail. Cool route though.
victim of mathematics - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/13 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13

CJEFF - 2nd β - 12/Aug/13 with Thomas Ramsdon

Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/13

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Rob Durran

w.pettet-smith - Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13

davidliu - 2nd β - 27/Jul/13 with James Kay

Hidden - 2nd β - 13/Jul/13

In the full heat of the day never been so sweaty on a route, such a good route
brices - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Joe Innes, Sash

Bit of a reckless lead after realizing I was too tired to try anything harder. Soon got stuck and pumped after the brown ramp. Eventually went right (with direction from Remus) to the non-obvious crimpy wall and pulled through by the skin of my teeth.
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Remus

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Jun/13

Not as hard as I was expecting. A few crimpy pulls and its all over. Excellent
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with D.Campbell

Awesome and really pumpy though with probably only a handfull of hard moves!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - 2nd - 01/Jun/13 with Ollie B

AlexD - 2nd - 17/Sep/12 with Ed

Misread the route description and faffed around trying to go straight up from the block on the traverse. By the time I realised I was pretty pumped and had to rest on the gear moving up the steep wall after the crux. A bit Pd off.
al99 - Lead dog - 16/Sep/12 with Luke Thomas

tom106 - Lead β - 11/Aug/12

Brilliant. Amazing position & perfect line with bomber gear & great moves. Only regret is that, for maximum excitement, I didn't do it a little earlier in my Pembroke apprenticeship.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Tom

Hard!!!
Dizz - 2nd - 29/Jul/12 with Hugh T

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Jul/12

Superb route - captain pumpsville and I did the up and down thing exactly as the guide book suggests.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Dan

Hidden - Jun/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 05/May/12

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 05/May/12 with richard lade

Hidden - 2nd β - 08/Apr/12

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

Justin T - 2nd - 06/Apr/12 with Cherry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Nick Sillem - 2012

wolverine - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Chris Coleman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/11

Not bad crux when you work it out, super pumpy though!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/11

Pumpy!!!!
markalmack - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with jacqui savage

too tired. Seems like quite a route though! Ended up soloing up for the gear. Not sure how that works - fell off it but felt totally solid soloing up and down to my high point.
jacobjlloyd - Lead dnf - 02/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Jon Fane

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Pippa - 2nd - 24/Apr/11 with Jon

switch - 2nd rpt - 26/Mar/11 with Jo Bertalot

Paul Boggis - 2nd - 2011

mwatson - 2011

And 17 September 2012 with AlexD. Late in the day in a strong wind and over a big sea. Got one move further before the pump got me again. Superb second by Alex. A great route to have as as a nemesis!
Ed Babs - Lead dog - 27/Sep/10 with Harry

got pressured and wet from enormous swells smashing around the lower belay. so much so i only tied into the rope leading to far end of traverse. didn't care was just glad to be away from the water. went ok, just kept clipping rope into runners in front of me.
ian caton - 2nd β - 30/Aug/10 with alex

Mr Sparkle - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/10 with Liam O'Loughlin

Really good. Don't clip your second rope till the end if the traverse (after the crux)!
liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Aug/10

Excellent route but not one to hang around on. The traverse was fine until a couple of tricky moves to reach a very poor rest. First mistake was not trying to find a better rest - think there might have been one a bit lower down - or just carrying on. Second mistake was trying to go straight up but then realised that going further right was going to be easier and also rememebered that the guide book referred to climbing up slightly right of the obvious line. Last mistake was hanging around for ages on the crimps out right rather than just going for it. Ended up slumping on the gear after getting totalling pumped. Had a good rest and finished it, though was still quite hard for a few moves until got established above the crimps. My greatest failure so far this year.
Misha - Lead dog - 29/Aug/10 with Phil

Intimidating traverse, sent for prussicks just incase. Sustained on arms to hard moves to crimpy crux - finally arms gave in.Would be nice to get on the lead.
philhilo - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/10 with misha

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10

took the whip last summer when I went the wrong way, seems to be a common theme. good to get the route done. very pumpy, felt harder than bloody sunday. read the topo description. AMAZING
david morse - Lead RP - 27/Aug/10 with siobhan

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/10

Wet!
drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/10 with Mark O'Neill

Brilliant route, but hard moves on the traverse for shorties. One of UKs best E3's for sure.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Mikey G

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10

Rob Pitt - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10 with steveE9

Amazing!
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Ray

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Ed Booth

Multi pitch!! Em started it, got hot and bothered and belayed on the traverse before the hard climbing, I finished it off and found it easier than last time (without the rope drag!) Great route...
Chad123 - AltLd rpt - 22/May/10 with Emily

Ben1983 - Lead dog - 02/May/10

One lob off the crux, didn't go far enough right, lovely route mind, it'll go...
irish paul - Lead dog - 01/May/10 with Dave Ripley

1 rest on crux, got the sequence wrong
dave657 - 2nd dog - 01/May/10 with paul b

Seymore Butt - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/09

alaan - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09

Dave Bond - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Tim Banton

Ian Broome - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Al

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Jun/09

Stunning climbing. Had to rest before the last hard move.
DafSWMC - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/09 with Chris Wyatt

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/May/09 with Andy Reeve

datoon - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with K

With one fall and perhaps a touch of French Free. Really suffered on the crux. Must return for a more pleasurable experience.
gforce - Lead dog - 07/Aug/08 with Jason

Tim M - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 02/Aug/08 with cheesesarnie

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Mike Soldner

Mark D - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/08 with Ant

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Mark (UBMC)

bfreeman - Lead - 05/May/08 with Tim Marjot

tlmarjot - 2nd dog - 03/May/08 with Ben Freeman

Docent - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with stecu

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Neil Hills

Jus - Lead O/S - Aug/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Jul/07

feilx - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/07 with Steve P

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/07

bronsonite - Lead O/S - 08/May/07 with Alex Cannon

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Al

Rob Kennard - 2007

Richard White - Lead O/S - 2007 with Rob Kennard

mgeek - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with ged& matty

chris j - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/06 with Ben Bradford

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/06 with martina

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/06 with Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/06

Classic, wish I'd got it clean! Had repeated goes at last hard move and just gave up!
Chad123 - Lead dog - Apr/06 with Huw

Boy - 2006

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2006

Paz - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/05 with `Ozzy' G

My hardest onsight at Pembroke, but I wasn't very happy about it at the time. The ascent took hours, with FAR too much faffing and worrying about gear, etc. I'd like to go back and climb it properly sometime!
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Ben Harding

Ally Smith - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/04 with Dave Emms

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead rpt - Jun/04 with Viv

Gus - Lead O/S - 30/May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/03

ian caton - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with stewart

buzby78 - Lead - 07/May/02

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2002

WB - Lead O/S - 2001 with Emyr

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - 2001 with loundsy

Laramadness - 2nd β - 29/Jul/00 with RF

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - 2000

ellis - Lead O/S - Sep/99 with Ally Coull

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/May/99

2 hard sequences (5c); good feeling of exposure; derek practically soloed the bottom bit (before the traverse right) to avoid problems with rope drag
nickdonohue - 2nd - 30/Aug/98 with Derek Ashworth

innes - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with Jon Bracey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/98

MONKEY78 - Lead O/S - 01/May/98 with Diane Merrick, SCUM

ChrisJD - Lead - 24/Aug/97 with rc

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Jul/97

sadams - 2nd - 29/Mar/97 with John Boyle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/96

craig h - Lead O/S - 1996 with Janet Hannah

Roget - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/95 with jon

Hidden - 2nd - 1995

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/94

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/94 with john roberts

whispering nic - 2nd - Aug/93 with Graham Iles

keefe - 17/Apr/93 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 17/Apr/93 with keefe

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/92

Also solo, I think a year or so later.
jfletcher - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/92

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/92

steve taylor - 2nd - Aug/90 with Jim Waddington

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 16/Apr/90 with George MacIntyre

Rich Kirby - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/90 with Will (S. Williamson)

Dave Rumney - Lead - 1990

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 1990

Billg - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/89

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - Lead - 10/Sep/88

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Feb/88

shark - Lead rpt - 27/May/87

Dave Musgrove - Lead β - 21/Apr/87 with Pete Finklaire

andy gittins - 1987

shark - Lead dog - 17/Apr/85 with Richard O Mara

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 26/Apr/84 with Paul Dawson

Hidden - AltLd - 1984

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 29/Apr/83 with Dave Kenyon

Mike Owen - 05/Apr/83 with Phil Ralph

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/82

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 11/Apr/82 with Chris Calow

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jun/81

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Voting
Total votes cast 124
hard E40 of 43
E40 of 43
easy E41 of 43
hard E318 of 43
E323 of 43
easy E31 of 43
hard E20 of 43
E20 of 43
easy E20 of 43
hard 6a0 of 43
6a0 of 43
easy 6a3 of 43
hard 5c9 of 43
5c31 of 43
easy 5c0 of 43
hard 5b0 of 43
5b0 of 43
easy 5b0 of 43
3 Stars38 of 38
2 Stars0 of 38
1 Star0 of 38
0 Stars0 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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Style of ascent

Lead101 of 167 (60.5%)
Followed46 of 167 (27.5%)
Alt Leads5 of 167 (3.0%)
Unknown15 of 167 (9.0%)

'Climbed'44 of 167 (26.3%)
clean O/S79 of 167 (47.3%)
clean β8 of 167 (4.8%)
clean rpt7 of 167 (4.2%)
clean RP1 of 167 (0.6%)
dogged23 of 167 (13.8%)
dnf5 of 167 (3.0%)