Got to the end of the traverse and after going backwards and forwards didn't feel strong enough to get into the non-rest and on through the crux. Didn't fancy prussiking back up after a fall, so just hung on the gear and had a rest. In hindsight I would have probably just about got through, but it would have been close...
amccann - Lead dog - 18/Aug/15 with Harry Lewis
Led this about 20 years ago. Felt hard following Pete today. Top end E3.
Brian H - 2nd rpt - 17/Aug/15 with Kafoozalem
harry_lewis - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/15 with Alex McCann
pete johnson - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/15 with Dave Rumney
drizzly and damp conditions
Dave Rumney - 2nd - 13/Aug/15 with Pete Johnston
Kinda pushed shaun into this but not a bad effort despite the rest at the crux. One that's much easier to second. Wish we'd both taken notice of the guide saying just right of the obvious line. Hard but so good.
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/15 with Shaun Humphreys
MEGA!! ben said he would do it if i didnt, so would have been rude not to get on it! found the traverse abit scary and nearly came off getting the the undercut, Then placed about 6 pieces of gear and pumped out! definitely one to come back for!
shaunhumphreys - Lead dog - 10/Aug/15 with benkelsey
Dan724 - Lead G/U - 11/Jul/15 with Adam Revill
Went way too direct after the traverse. Took two falls before seeing the holds further right. Rookie error.
CharlieMack - 2nd dog - 27/Jun/15 with Angus
awesome, deserves the reputation. amazing ground to cover for a (hardish) E3
anguskille - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Charlie Mackie
Want to do it again !
James Marshall - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/15 with sash
Such a good route......happy to get this in perfect conditions in the shade. The two in situ wires helped.
Mark Grist - Lead O/S - 23/May/15 with Paul Tanton
This is Pembroke at it's best
PaulTanton - 2nd rpt - 23/May/15 with Mark Grist
Total sandbag. Finished the traverse quickly and felt as if I was going well. Hard move onto the ramp got me quite pumped then discovered the crux holds were soaking wet. There is only one good piece of gear here and the move above is very confusing. Very annoyed to blow the onsight.
adam 24 - Lead dog - 09/May/15 with Caroline
Hidden - 2nd β - 09/May/15
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/15
Tom Livingstone - 2nd rpt - 05/Apr/15 with Henry Francis
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/15
Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/15
Seconded last year I believe. Bit wet but still amazing
i_a_coops - Lead - 14/Mar/15 with Harry
Came off at the crux after the traverse- one move away! Really hard but awesome route. Had to be lowered an ab rope as moronically only had one prussik on me and landed in what looked like solid E5 territory.
spidermonkey09 - Lead dog - 13/Sep/14 with Ellie Fuller
holey moley! probably the best E3 I've ever done!
simon kimber - Lead - 06/Sep/14 with Rob Andrews
Stunning, but nails E3. Hard for shorties I reckon
Apharri - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14 with Dave Wharton
tim newton - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/14 with rachel slater
Rachel Slater - 2nd RP - 14/Aug/14 with Tim Newton
3 Names - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/14 with Sumee Holloway
Seconded this twice before. If you soloed this and fell off the crux you would actually land in the sea... just sayin.
jacobjacob - Lead β - 13/Jul/14
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/14
Felt harder than I remembered it being! Got pumped!
quiffhanger - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/14
Lasted until the end of the traverse, was then too pumped and had to rest.
will_benfold - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/14 with Ross McKerchar
... by the skin of my teeth. Faffed around at the non-rest for about half an hour, finally figured out to step right a bit where it was pleasantly easy (technical crux is surely the last move on the traverse?). Awesome route, possibly the best E3 I've done yet, committing with massive exposure! At about 90 minutes it must also be the longest I've spent leading a route.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Alastair Begley
Read the route incorrectly at the end, gutted!
alastairbegley - 2nd - 31/May/14 with Nick Russell
Not a warm up. Took a big whipper off the crux... we couldn't get our nut out after that! (You're welcome!)
jonleighton - Lead dog - 16/May/14
Justin T - 2nd - 04/May/14 with Rachel
Should have had this but didn't want to commit! Hung on to a sloper for ages with no feet until I was too pumped to hold on. Not a great warm-up but I will be back!
Rachel Slater - Lead dog - 04/May/14 with Justin Timms
got really pumped, put too much gear in, went the wrong way at the crux etc.
simon kimber - Lead dog - 21/Apr/14 with Rich Howell
Superb route! Dougie didn't hang around to place gear on the traverse which added a bit of spice to seconding it.
shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low
dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Darren McMaster
Julian Cooper - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/14 with Stuart Knott
ejected - 2014
mike mo - 2014
gazhbo - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/13
robgixer - 2nd - 05/Oct/13
Fantastic route - so far the best route in Pembroke I have climbed! Very technical (a bit harder for me, a very shorty) and both climbing and interestingness were sustained in a superb and exposed position!! I couldn't afford to put much gear in traverse, which was a bit scary for my second (thanks, Rob!). 4th E3 on this day - my PB as well.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Rob G
The 4th E3 I've tried and it felt very tough, climbed when fairly tired (4th day on) and feeling very psyched out after looking at the top section from above..
Setting out on the route I felt nervous and got cramp in my biceps when placing the first couple of bits of gear. I reversed the moves and rested which didn't make me feel any more relaxed.
I then decided that if I didn't try it now I never would so I decided just to go for it. I climbed up to my previous highpoint then climbed across the traverse as quickly as I could, placing a couple of pieces of gear at each rest. At the final rest, nearing the end of the traverse I was VERY pumped
. Not really thinking and climbing completely on instinct, I set off on the crux traverse section skipping the poor crimps, cutting loose on the jugs and throwing myself onto the sloping ledge. Pumped solid, I managed to place the yellow cam and a red one but I was far too pumped to recover atall in the resting position. I then got pretty psyched out by the crux section above and had a long rest on the gear. After the rest the crux felt fine, amazing moves.
One to come back to when slightly more confident on pumpy route... Great but tough E3.
James Oswald - Lead dog - 06/Sep/13 with Jon Stewart
Mind blowing exposure for the grade. Climbed in the full heat of the sun. Not to much drag despite some shoddy ropework.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with -martin
Seconded with a rest on the rope. Enjoyed and quite chuffed. Led 1989.
John Nuttall - 2nd - 31/Aug/13 with Jon
Armfail. Cool route though.
victim of mathematics - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/13 with Andy
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13
Hidden - 2nd β - 12/Aug/13
Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/13
Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Rob Durran
w.pettet-smith - Aug/13
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13
davidliu - 2nd β - 27/Jul/13 with James Kay
Hidden - 2nd β - 13/Jul/13
In the full heat of the day never been so sweaty on a route, such a good route
brices - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Joe Innes, Sash
Bit of a reckless lead after realizing I was too tired to try anything harder. Soon got stuck and pumped after the brown ramp. Eventually went right (with direction from Remus) to the non-obvious crimpy wall and pulled through by the skin of my teeth.
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Remus
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Jun/13
Not as hard as I was expecting. A few crimpy pulls and its all over. Excellent
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with D.Campbell
Awesome and really pumpy though with probably only a handfull of hard moves!
Duncan Campbell - 2nd - 01/Jun/13 with Ollie B
AlexD - 2nd - 17/Sep/12 with Ed
Misread the route description and faffed around trying to go straight up from the block on the traverse. By the time I realised I was pretty pumped and had to rest on the gear moving up the steep wall after the crux. A bit Pd off.
al99 - Lead dog - 16/Sep/12 with Luke Thomas
tom106 - Lead β - 11/Aug/12
Brilliant. Amazing position & perfect line with bomber gear & great moves. Only regret is that, for maximum excitement, I didn't do it a little earlier in my Pembroke apprenticeship.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Tom
Dizz - 2nd - 29/Jul/12 with Hugh T
Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Jul/12
Superb route - captain pumpsville and I did the up and down thing exactly as the guide book suggests.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Dan
Hidden - Jun/12
Hidden - Lead dnf - 05/May/12
dan gibson - Lead rpt - 05/May/12 with richard lade
Hidden - 2nd β - 08/Apr/12
bigie bob - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12
Justin T - 2nd - 06/Apr/12 with Cherry
Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12
Tony Kartawick - 2012
Nick Sillem - 2012
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11
Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/11
Not bad crux when you work it out, super pumpy though!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Mike
Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11
Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/11
markalmack - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with jacqui savage
too tired. Seems like quite a route though! Ended up soloing up for the gear. Not sure how that works - fell off it but felt totally solid soloing up and down to my high point.
jacobjlloyd - Lead dnf - 02/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour
Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Jon Fane
Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11
Pippa - 2nd - 24/Apr/11 with Jon
switch - 2nd rpt - 26/Mar/11 with Jo Bertalot
Paul Boggis - 2nd - 2011
mwatson - 2011
And 17 September 2012 with AlexD. Late in the day in a strong wind and over a big sea. Got one move further before the pump got me again. Superb second by Alex. A great route to have as as a nemesis!
Ed Babs - Lead dog - 27/Sep/10 with Harry
got pressured and wet from enormous swells smashing around the lower belay. so much so i only tied into the rope leading to far end of traverse. didn't care was just glad to be away from the water. went ok, just kept clipping rope into runners in front of me.
ian caton - 2nd β - 30/Aug/10 with alex
Mr Sparkle - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/10 with Liam O'Loughlin
Really good. Don't clip your second rope till the end if the traverse (after the crux)!
liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10
Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Aug/10
Excellent route but not one to hang around on. The traverse was fine until a couple of tricky moves to reach a very poor rest. First mistake was not trying to find a better rest - think there might have been one a bit lower down - or just carrying on. Second mistake was trying to go straight up but then realised that going further right was going to be easier and also rememebered that the guide book referred to climbing up slightly right of the obvious line. Last mistake was hanging around for ages on the crimps out right rather than just going for it. Ended up slumping on the gear after getting totalling pumped. Had a good rest and finished it, though was still quite hard for a few moves until got established above the crimps. My greatest failure so far this year.
Misha - Lead dog - 29/Aug/10 with Phil
Intimidating traverse, sent for prussicks just incase. Sustained on arms to hard moves to crimpy crux - finally arms gave in.Would be nice to get on the lead.
philhilo - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/10 with misha
Made the mistake of "resting" and have never been so close to coming off without actually doing it. A proper sport climbing mentality got me through it, knowing that I could recover on the next crimp and make the move with the smaller foothold. Best experience in years. This has been on my list for a long time, and I was terrified of it!
drysori - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Alex
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Ian Heginbotham
took the whip last summer when I went the wrong way, seems to be a common theme. good to get the route done. very pumpy, felt harder than bloody sunday. read the topo description. AMAZING
david morse - Lead RP - 27/Aug/10 with siobhan
Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/10
drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/10 with Mark O'Neill
Brilliant route, but hard moves on the traverse for shorties. One of UKs best E3's for sure.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Mikey G
Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10
Rob Pitt - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10 with steveE9
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Ray
billb - Lead dog - Aug/10 with Mark Warnet
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10
Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Ed Booth
Multi pitch!! Em started it, got hot and bothered and belayed on the traverse before the hard climbing, I finished it off and found it easier than last time (without the rope drag!) Great route...
Chad123 - AltLd rpt - 22/May/10 with Emily
Ben1983 - Lead dog - 02/May/10
One lob off the crux, didn't go far enough right, lovely route mind, it'll go...
irish paul - Lead dog - 01/May/10 with Dave Ripley
Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/May/10
Seymore Butt - 2010
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/09
alaan - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09
Dave Bond - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Tim Banton
Ian Broome - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Al
Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Jun/09
Stunning climbing. Had to rest before the last hard move.
DafSWMC - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/09 with Chris Wyatt
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/May/09 with Andy Reeve
datoon - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with K
With one fall and perhaps a touch of French Free. Really suffered on the crux. Must return for a more pleasurable experience.
gforce - Lead dog - 07/Aug/08 with Jason
Tim M - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Emma
climbergg - 2nd - 02/Aug/08 with cheesesarnie
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Mike Soldner
Mark D - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/08 with Ant
ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Mark (UBMC)
bfreeman - Lead - 05/May/08 with Tim Marjot
tlmarjot - 2nd dog - 03/May/08 with Ben Freeman
Docent - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with stecu
ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Neil Hills
Jus - Lead O/S - Aug/07
Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Jul/07
feilx - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/07 with Steve P
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/07
bronsonite - Lead O/S - 08/May/07 with Alex Cannon
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Al
Rob Kennard - 2007
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007
mgeek - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with ged& matty
chris j - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/06 with Ben Bradford
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/06 with martina
Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/06 with Steve
Adam Ellwood - Lead O/S - 13/May/06 with Dave Parton
Classic, wish I'd got it clean! Had repeated goes at last hard move and just gave up!
Chad123 - Lead dog - Apr/06 with Huw
Boy - 2006
Bern - 2006
Smith42 - 2nd O/S - 2006
Paz - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/05 with `Ozzy' G
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/04
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead rpt - Jun/04 with Viv
Gus - Lead O/S - 30/May/04
Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/03
ian caton - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with stewart
buzby78 - Lead - 07/May/02
Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2002
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2002
WB - Lead O/S - 2001 with Emyr
belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - 2001 with loundsy
Laramadness - 2nd β - 29/Jul/00 with RF
Hidden - 2000
Tim M - 2000
ellis - Lead O/S - Sep/99 with Ally Coull
Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/May/99
2 hard sequences (5c); good feeling of exposure; derek practically soloed the bottom bit (before the traverse right) to avoid problems with rope drag
nickdonohue - 2nd - 30/Aug/98 with Derek Ashworth
innes - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with Jon Bracey
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/98
DavidEvans - Lead O/S - 01/May/98 with Diane Merrick, SCUM
ChrisJD - Lead - 24/Aug/97 with rc
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Jul/97
sadams - 2nd - 29/Mar/97 with John Boyle
bill1 - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/96
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/96
craig h - Lead O/S - 1996 with Janet Hannah
Roget - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/95 with jon
Hidden - 2nd - 1995
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/94
michael burrows - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/94 with john roberts
whispering nic - 2nd - Aug/93 with Graham Iles
keefe - 17/Apr/93 with Glenn Sutcliffe
Glenn Sutcliffe - 17/Apr/93 with keefe
Hidden - AltLd - Sep/92
Also solo, I think a year or so later.
jfletcher - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/92
Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/92
steve taylor - 2nd - Aug/90 with Jim Waddington
Bruce Kerr - Lead - 16/Apr/90 with George MacIntyre
Rich Kirby - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/90 with Will (S. Williamson)
Dave Rumney - Lead - 1990
Billg - Lead O/S - 1990
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990
Hidden - Lead O/S - May/89
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1989
Hidden - Lead - 10/Sep/88
Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Feb/88
shark - Lead rpt - 27/May/87
Dave Musgrove - Lead β - 21/Apr/87 with Pete Finklaire
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/87 with SimonGee
andy gittins - 1987
bullybones - Lead - 1987
skin of teeth, post-uni finals trip, blazing sunshine and lots of beers
Gregory - Lead O/S - Aug/86 with terry ralphs
shark - Lead dog - 17/Apr/85 with Richard O Mara
steve L - Lead - 02/Jun/84 with Clive Curle
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 26/Apr/84 with Paul Dawson
Hidden - AltLd - 1984
Mark Kemball - 2nd - 29/Apr/83 with Dave Kenyon
Mike Owen - 05/Apr/83 with Phil Ralph
Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/82
Mark Kemball - AltLd - 11/Apr/82 with Chris Calow
Lone Rider - 1982
Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jun/81
Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980