UKC Logbook - 'Pleasure Dome'

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Pembrokeshire > Stennis Head >

Pleasure Dome

E3 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Mean Streak

The Great Elmyra >>

One thing that makes a route truly great is when it goes somewhere that you don’t think is possible at the grade. Pleasure Dome must be one of the most classic examples of such a route. It is quite a hard E3 but it is only E3. Climb the rib to the right of the trench to a ledge. Step up to gain the flakeline and follow it rightwards with just enough runners and nowhere near enough foot-holds. Where it blanks out, make a hard move to a non-rest at the top of a rightwards-facing ramp. Move up to some good gear, then climb back down, then move up again and back down, and up and down. Finally pull up again, slightly right of the obvious line and move left to a ledge below the easy finishing corner. Sort your runners out to reduce the rope drag. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pat Littlejohn 6.4.80 06/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Very good routes in the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Photo: Fine conditions at Stennis Head © Kev Little
View all 13 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 141 logbooks, and on 45 wishlists.

AlexD - 2nd - 17/Sep/12 with Ed

Misread the route description and faffed around trying to go straight up from the block on the traverse. By the time I realised I was pretty pumped and had to rest on the gear moving up the steep wall after the crux. A bit Pd off.
al99 - Lead dog - 16/Sep/12 with Luke Thomas

tom106 - Lead β - 11/Aug/12

Brilliant. Amazing position & perfect line with bomber gear & great moves. Only regret is that, for maximum excitement, I didn't do it a little earlier in my Pembroke apprenticeship.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Tom

Hard!!!
Dizz - 2nd - 29/Jul/12 with Hugh T

10meter mega whip off the crux. Spicy times...
conorcussell - Lead dog - 14/Jul/12

Superb route - captain pumpsville and I did the up and down thing exactly as the guide book suggests.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Dan

Hidden - Jun/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 05/May/12

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 05/May/12 with richard lade

north country boy - 2nd β - 08/Apr/12 with Bob Hickish

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

quadmyre - 2nd - 06/Apr/12 with Cherry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Nick Sillem - 2012

wolverine - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Chris Coleman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/11

Not bad crux when you work it out, super pumpy though!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/11

Pumpy!!!!
markalmack - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with jacqui savage

too tired. Seems like quite a route though! Ended up soloing up for the gear. Not sure how that works - fell off it but felt totally solid soloing up and down to my high point.
jacobjlloyd - Lead dnf - 02/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Jon Fane

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Pippa - 2nd - 24/Apr/11 with Jon

switch - 2nd rpt - 26/Mar/11 with Jo Bertalot

Paul Boggis - 2nd - 2011

mwatson - 2011

And 17 September 2012 with AlexD. Late in the day in a strong wind and over a big sea. Got one move further before the pump got me again. Superb second by Alex. A great route to have as as a nemesis!
Ed Babs - Lead dog - 27/Sep/10 with Harry

got pressured and wet from enormous swells smashing around the lower belay. so much so i only tied into the rope leading to far end of traverse. didn't care was just glad to be away from the water. went ok, just kept clipping rope into runners in front of me.
ian caton - 2nd β - 30/Aug/10 with alex

Mr Sparkle - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/10 with Liam O'Loughlin

Really good. Don't clip your second rope till the end if the traverse (after the crux)!
liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Aug/10

Excellent route but not one to hang around on. The traverse was fine until a couple of tricky moves to reach a very poor rest. First mistake was not trying to find a better rest - think there might have been one a bit lower down - or just carrying on. Second mistake was trying to go straight up but then realised that going further right was going to be easier and also rememebered that the guide book referred to climbing up slightly right of the obvious line. Last mistake was hanging around for ages on the crimps out right rather than just going for it. Ended up slumping on the gear after getting totalling pumped. Had a good rest and finished it, though was still quite hard for a few moves until got established above the crimps. My greatest failure so far this year.
Misha - Lead dog - 29/Aug/10 with Phil

Intimidating traverse, sent for prussicks just incase. Sustained on arms to hard moves to crimpy crux - finally arms gave in.Would be nice to get on the lead.
philhilo - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/10 with misha

Made the mistake of "resting" and have never been so close to coming off without actually doing it. A proper sport climbing mentality got me through it, knowing that I could recover on the next crimp and make the move with the smaller foothold. Best experience in years. This has been on my list for a long time, and I was terrified of it!
Wil Treasure - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Alex

took the whip last summer when I went the wrong way, seems to be a common theme. good to get the route done. very pumpy, felt harder than bloody sunday. read the topo description. AMAZING
david morse - Lead RP - 27/Aug/10 with siobhan

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/10

Wet!
drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/10 with Mark O'Neill

Brilliant route, but hard moves on the traverse for shorties. One of UKs best E3's for sure.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Mikey G

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10

Amazing!
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Ray

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Ed Booth

Multi pitch!! Em started it, got hot and bothered and belayed on the traverse before the hard climbing, I finished it off and found it easier than last time (without the rope drag!) Great route...
Chad123 - AltLd rpt - 22/May/10 with Emily

Ben1983 - Lead dog - 02/May/10

One lob off the crux, didn't go far enough right, lovely route mind, it'll go...
irish paul - Lead dog - 01/May/10 with Dave Ripley

1 rest on crux, got the sequence wrong
dave657 - 2nd dog - 01/May/10 with paul b

Seymore Butt - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/09

alaan - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09

Dave Bond - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Tim Banton

Ian Broome - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Al

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Jun/09

Stunning climbing. Had to rest before the last hard move.
DafSWMC - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/09 with Chris Wyatt

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/May/09 with Andy Reeve

datoon - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with K

With one fall and perhaps a touch of French Free. Really suffered on the crux. Must return for a more pleasurable experience.
gforce - Lead dog - 07/Aug/08 with Jason

Tim M - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 02/Aug/08 with cheesesarnie

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Mike Soldner

Mark D - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/08 with Ant

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Mark (UBMC)

bfreeman - Lead - 05/May/08 with Tim Marjot

tlmarjot - 2nd dog - 03/May/08 with Ben Freeman

Docent - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with stecu

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Neil Hills

Jus - Lead O/S - Aug/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Jul/07

feilx - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/07 with Steve P

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/07

bronsonite - Lead O/S - 08/May/07 with Alex Cannon

Belier - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Al

Rob Kennard - 2007

Richard White - Lead O/S - 2007 with Rob Kennard

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/06

chris j - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/06 with Ben Bradford

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/06 with martina

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/06 with Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/06

Classic, wish I'd got it clean! Had repeated goes at last hard move and just gave up!
Chad123 - Lead dog - Apr/06 with Huw

Boy - 2006

Bern - 2006

Paz - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/05 with `Ozzy' G

My hardest onsight at Pembroke, but I wasn't very happy about it at the time. The ascent took hours, with FAR too much faffing and worrying about gear, etc. I'd like to go back and climb it properly sometime!
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Ben Harding

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/04

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead rpt - Jun/04 with Viv

Gus - Lead O/S - 30/May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/03

ian caton - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with stewart

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2002

WB - Lead O/S - 2001 with Emyr

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - 2001 with loundsy

Laramadness - 2nd β - 29/Aug/00 with RF

loundsy - 2000

Tim M - 2000

ellis - Lead O/S - Sep/99 with Ali Coull