Pembrokeshire > Stennis Head >
 
Pleasure Dome*** E3 5c

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[Making good progress on a sweltering day., 2 kb]One thing that makes a route truly great is when it goes somewhere that you donít think is possible at the grade. Pleasure Dome must be one of the most classic examples of such a route. It is quite a hard E3 but it is only E3. Climb the rib to the right of the trench to a ledge. Step up to gain the flakeline and follow it rightwards with just enough runners and nowhere near enough foot-holds. Where it blanks out, make a hard move to a non-rest at the top of a rightwards-facing ramp. Move up to some good gear, then climb back down, then move up again and back down, and up and down. Finally pull up again, slightly right of the obvious line and move left to a ledge below the easy finishing corner. Sort your runners out to reduce the rope drag. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pat Littlejohn 6.4.80 06/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Very good routes in the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist.

Photo: Making good progress on a sweltering day. © druss
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 191 logbooks, and on 58 wishlists.

Came off at the crux after the traverse- one move away! Really hard but awesome route. Had to be lowered an ab rope as moronically only had one prussik on me and landed in what looked like solid E5 territory.
spidermonkey09 - Lead dog - 13/Sep/14 with Ellie Fuller

holey moley! probably the best E3 I've ever done!
simon kimber - Lead - 06/Sep/14 with Rob Andrews

Stunning, but nails E3. Hard for shorties I reckon
Apharri - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14 with Dave Wharton

tim newton - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/14 with rachel slater

Rachel Slater - 2nd RP - 14/Aug/14 with Tim Newton

3 Names - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/14 with Sumee Holloway

Seconded this twice before. If you soloed this and fell off the crux you would actually land in the sea... just sayin.
jacobjacob - Lead β - 13/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/14

Felt harder than I remembered it being! Got pumped!
quiffhanger - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/14

Lasted until the end of the traverse, was then too pumped and had to rest.
will_benfold - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/14 with Ross McKerchar

... by the skin of my teeth. Faffed around at the non-rest for about half an hour, finally figured out to step right a bit where it was pleasantly easy (technical crux is surely the last move on the traverse?). Awesome route, possibly the best E3 I've done yet, committing with massive exposure! At about 90 minutes it must also be the longest I've spent leading a route.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Alastair Begley

Read the route incorrectly at the end, gutted!
alastairbegley - 2nd - 31/May/14 with Nick Russell

Not a warm up. Took a big whipper off the crux... we couldn't get our nut out after that! (You're welcome!)
jonleighton - Lead dog - 16/May/14

Justin T - 2nd - 04/May/14 with Rachel

Should have had this but didn't want to commit! Hung on to a sloper for ages with no feet until I was too pumped to hold on. Not a great warm-up but I will be back!
Rachel Slater - Lead dog - 04/May/14 with Justin Timms

got really pumped, put too much gear in, went the wrong way at the crux etc.
simon kimber - Lead dog - 21/Apr/14 with Rich Howell

Superb route! Dougie didn't hang around to place gear on the traverse which added a bit of spice to seconding it.
shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Darren McMaster

Julian Cooper - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/14 with Stuart Knott

ejected - 2014

mike mo - 2014

gazhbo - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/13

robgixer - 2nd - 05/Oct/13

Fantastic route - so far the best route in Pembroke I have climbed! Very technical (a bit harder for me, a very shorty) and both climbing and interestingness were sustained in a superb and exposed position!! I couldn't afford to put much gear in traverse, which was a bit scary for my second (thanks, Rob!). 4th E3 on this day - my PB as well.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Rob G

The 4th E3 I've tried and it felt very tough, climbed when fairly tired (4th day on) and feeling very psyched out after looking at the top section from above.. Setting out on the route I felt nervous and got cramp in my biceps when placing the first couple of bits of gear. I reversed the moves and rested which didn't make me feel any more relaxed. I then decided that if I didn't try it now I never would so I decided just to go for it. I climbed up to my previous highpoint then climbed across the traverse as quickly as I could, placing a couple of pieces of gear at each rest. At the final rest, nearing the end of the traverse I was VERY pumped . Not really thinking and climbing completely on instinct, I set off on the crux traverse section skipping the poor crimps, cutting loose on the jugs and throwing myself onto the sloping ledge. Pumped solid, I managed to place the yellow cam and a red one but I was far too pumped to recover atall in the resting position. I then got pretty psyched out by the crux section above and had a long rest on the gear. After the rest the crux felt fine, amazing moves. One to come back to when slightly more confident on pumpy route... Great but tough E3.
James Oswald - Lead dog - 06/Sep/13 with Jon Stewart

Mind blowing exposure for the grade. Climbed in the full heat of the sun. Not to much drag despite some shoddy ropework.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with -martin

Seconded with a rest on the rope. Enjoyed and quite chuffed. Led 1989.
John Nuttall - 2nd - 31/Aug/13 with Jon

Armfail. Cool route though.
victim of mathematics - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/13 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd β - 12/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/13

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Rob Durran

w.pettet-smith - Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13

davidliu - 2nd β - 27/Jul/13 with James Kay

Hidden - 2nd β - 13/Jul/13

In the full heat of the day never been so sweaty on a route, such a good route
brices - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Joe Innes, Sash

Bit of a reckless lead after realizing I was too tired to try anything harder. Soon got stuck and pumped after the brown ramp. Eventually went right (with direction from Remus) to the non-obvious crimpy wall and pulled through by the skin of my teeth.
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Remus

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Jun/13

Not as hard as I was expecting. A few crimpy pulls and its all over. Excellent
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with D.Campbell

Awesome and really pumpy though with probably only a handfull of hard moves!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - 2nd - 01/Jun/13 with Ollie B

AlexD - 2nd - 17/Sep/12 with Ed

Misread the route description and faffed around trying to go straight up from the block on the traverse. By the time I realised I was pretty pumped and had to rest on the gear moving up the steep wall after the crux. A bit Pd off.
al99 - Lead dog - 16/Sep/12 with Luke Thomas

tom106 - Lead β - 11/Aug/12

Brilliant. Amazing position & perfect line with bomber gear & great moves. Only regret is that, for maximum excitement, I didn't do it a little earlier in my Pembroke apprenticeship.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Tom

Hard!!!
Dizz - 2nd - 29/Jul/12 with Hugh T

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Jul/12

Superb route - captain pumpsville and I did the up and down thing exactly as the guide book suggests.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Dan

Hidden - Jun/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 05/May/12

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 05/May/12 with richard lade

Hidden - 2nd β - 08/Apr/12

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

Justin T - 2nd - 06/Apr/12 with Cherry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Nick Sillem - 2012

wolverine - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Chris Coleman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/11

Not bad crux when you work it out, super pumpy though!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/11

Pumpy!!!!
markalmack - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with jacqui savage

too tired. Seems like quite a route though! Ended up soloing up for the gear. Not sure how that works - fell off it but felt totally solid soloing up and down to my high point.
jacobjlloyd - Lead dnf - 02/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Jon Fane

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Pippa - 2nd - 24/Apr/11 with Jon

switch - 2nd rpt - 26/Mar/11 with Jo Bertalot

Paul Boggis - 2nd - 2011

mwatson - 2011

And 17 September 2012 with AlexD. Late in the day in a strong wind and over a big sea. Got one move further before the pump got me again. Superb second by Alex. A great route to have as as a nemesis!
Ed Babs - Lead dog - 27/Sep/10 with Harry

got pressured and wet from enormous swells smashing around the lower belay. so much so i only tied into the rope leading to far end of traverse. didn't care was just glad to be away from the water. went ok, just kept clipping rope into runners in front of me.
ian caton - 2nd β - 30/Aug/10 with alex

Mr Sparkle - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/10 with Liam O'Loughlin

Really good. Don't clip your second rope till the end if the traverse (after the crux)!
liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Aug/10

Excellent route but not one to hang around on. The traverse was fine until a couple of tricky moves to reach a very poor rest. First mistake was not trying to find a better rest - think there might have been one a bit lower down - or just carrying on. Second mistake was trying to go straight up but then realised that going further right was going to be easier and also rememebered that the guide book referred to climbing up slightly right of the obvious line. Last mistake was hanging around for ages on the crimps out right rather than just going for it. Ended up slumping on the gear after getting totalling pumped. Had a good rest and finished it, though was still quite hard for a few moves until got established above the crimps. My greatest failure so far this year.
Misha - Lead dog - 29/Aug/10 with Phil

Intimidating traverse, sent for prussicks just incase. Sustained on arms to hard moves to crimpy crux - finally arms gave in.Would be nice to get on the lead.
philhilo - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/10 with misha

Made the mistake of "resting" and have never been so close to coming off without actually doing it. A proper sport climbing mentality got me through it, knowing that I could recover on the next crimp and make the move with the smaller foothold. Best experience in years. This has been on my list for a long time, and I was terrified of it!
drysori - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Alex

Superb... pumpy.
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Ian Heginbotham

took the whip last summer when I went the wrong way, seems to be a common theme. good to get the route done. very pumpy, felt harder than bloody sunday. read the topo description. AMAZING
david morse - Lead RP - 27/Aug/10 with siobhan

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/10

Wet!
drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/10 with Mark O'Neill

Brilliant route, but hard moves on the traverse for shorties. One of UKs best E3's for sure.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Mikey G

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10

Rob Pitt - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10 with steveE9

Amazing!
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Ray

billb - Lead dog - Aug/10 with Mark Warnet

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Ed Booth

Multi pitch!! Em started it, got hot and bothered and belayed on the traverse before the hard climbing, I finished it off and found it easier than last time (without the rope drag!) Great route...
Chad123 - AltLd rpt - 22/May/10 with Emily

Ben1983 - Lead dog - 02/May/10

One lob off the crux, didn't go far enough right, lovely route mind, it'll go...
irish paul - Lead dog - 01/May/10 with Dave Ripley

1 rest on crux, got the sequence wrong
dave657 - 2nd dog - 01/May/10 with paul b

Seymore Butt - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/09

alaan - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09

Dave Bond - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Tim Banton

Ian Broome - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Al

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Jun/09

Stunning climbing. Had to rest before the last hard move.
DafSWMC - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/09 with Chris Wyatt

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/May/09 with Andy Reeve

datoon - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with K

With one fall and perhaps a touch of French Free. Really suffered on the crux. Must return for a more pleasurable experience.
gforce - Lead dog - 07/Aug/08 with Jason

Tim M - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 02/Aug/08 with cheesesarnie

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Mike Soldner

Mark D - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/08 with Ant

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Mark (UBMC)

bfreeman - Lead - 05/May/08 with Tim Marjot

tlmarjot - 2nd dog - 03/May/08 with Ben Freeman

Docent - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with stecu

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Neil Hills

Jus - Lead O/S - Aug/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Jul/07

feilx - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/07 with Steve P

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/07

bronsonite - Lead O/S - 08/May/07 with Alex Cannon

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Al

Rob Kennard - 2007

Richard White - Lead O/S - 2007 with Rob Kennard

mgeek - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with ged& matty

chris j - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/06 with Ben Bradford

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/06 with martina

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/06 with Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/06

Classic, wish I'd got it clean! Had repeated goes at last hard move and just gave up!
Chad123 - Lead dog - Apr/06 with Huw

Boy - 2006

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2006

Paz - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/05 with `Ozzy' G

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/04

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead rpt - Jun/04 with Viv

Gus - Lead O/S - 30/May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/03

ian caton - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with stewart

buzby78 - Lead - 07/May/02

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2002

WB - Lead O/S - 2001 with Emyr

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - 2001 with loundsy

Laramadness - 2nd β - 29/Jul/00 with RF

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - 2000

ellis - Lead O/S - Sep/99 with Ally Coull

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/May/99

2 hard sequences (5c); good feeling of exposure; derek practically soloed the bottom bit (before the traverse right) to avoid problems with rope drag
nickdonohue - 2nd - 30/Aug/98 with Derek Ashworth

innes - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with Jon Bracey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/98

MONKEY78 - Lead O/S - 01/May/98 with Diane Merrick, SCUM

ChrisJD - Lead - 24/Aug/97 with rc

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Jul/97

sadams - 2nd - 29/Mar/97 with John Boyle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/96

craig h - Lead O/S - 1996 with Janet Hannah

Roget - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/95 with jon

Hidden - 2nd - 1995

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/94

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/94 with john roberts

whispering nic - 2nd - Aug/93 with Graham Iles

keefe - 17/Apr/93 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 17/Apr/93 with keefe

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/92

Also solo, I think a year or so later.
jfletcher - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/92

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/92

steve taylor - 2nd - Aug/90 with Jim Waddington

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 16/Apr/90 with George MacIntyre

Rich Kirby - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/90 with Will (S. Williamson)

Dave Rumney - Lead - 1990

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 1990

Billg - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/89

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - Lead - 10/Sep/88

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Feb/88

shark - Lead rpt - 27/May/87

Dave Musgrove - Lead β - 21/Apr/87 with Pete Finklaire

andy gittins - 1987

shark - Lead dog - 17/Apr/85 with Richard O Mara

steve L - Lead - 02/Jun/84 with Clive Curle

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 26/Apr/84 with Paul Dawson

Hidden - AltLd - 1984

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 29/Apr/83 with Dave Kenyon

Mike Owen - 05/Apr/83 with Phil Ralph

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/82

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 11/Apr/82 with Chris Calow

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jun/81

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

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Voting
Total votes cast 138
hard E40 of 48
E40 of 48
easy E41 of 48
hard E321 of 48
E325 of 48
easy E31 of 48
hard E20 of 48
E20 of 48
easy E20 of 48
hard 6a0 of 48
6a0 of 48
easy 6a3 of 48
hard 5c10 of 48
5c35 of 48
easy 5c0 of 48
hard 5b0 of 48
5b0 of 48
easy 5b0 of 48
3 Stars42 of 42
2 Stars0 of 42
1 Star0 of 42
0 Stars0 of 42
Bag of .....0 of 42
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Style of ascent

Lead118 of 191 (61.8%)
Followed51 of 191 (26.7%)
Alt Leads5 of 191 (2.6%)
Unknown17 of 191 (8.9%)

'Climbed'51 of 191 (26.7%)
clean O/S87 of 191 (45.5%)
clean β9 of 191 (4.7%)
clean rpt8 of 191 (4.2%)
clean RP2 of 191 (1.0%)
dogged29 of 191 (15.2%)
dnf5 of 191 (2.6%)