50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An atmospheric route which follows the wide crack on the right-hand side (looking in) of the buttress. The bridging moves required on the route are a lot easier for tall people.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb the corner-crack and chimney to a break in the first roof. Move up to a rest then chimney out to a spike on the arete. Swing (or bridge if you are lanky) to a ledge up and right.
2) 5a, 25m. Climb the crack above, over the other two roofs. © Rockfax

FA. C.Heard, S.Lewis 16.6.79 16/Jun/1979

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, The Best of Pembroke, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Adam24B 31/Mar Lead O/S

What an ab, again down aided, when I was at the ledge at the base waiting for my partner to ab I got hit by a freak wave! Completely engulfed and soaking wet thanks to a cold March sea I started to climb. The rock was good, not as slimy as I thought it would be, tallness helped with bridging with a good rest before the crux. The spike I think is more like a mini jug that I guess could be missed. The second pitch was hard, an accidental knee-bar helped me place some gear, just tough laybacking. (Second pitch is given 5b in the old guide which I agree with).

Kris2fa 31/Mar 2nd dog
with Adam24B
Misha 25/May/15 Lead O/S

Mental ab in at highish tide, had to place about five runners to keep the rope in. I've done plenty of exciting abs but have to admit I was a bit intimidated by this one! The climbing up to the crux was mostly steady bridging but pretty exciting and often on damp rock. Great bridged rest above space below the crux, which was dry but tricky and committing (what's all that about a spike in the description?). Second pitch is not 5a as per the Rockfax! At least 5b - bridging, contortions and slimy jams. Went past an old bird's nest, yuk! Well protected though. Led it all in one 45m pitch. E2 climbing, E3 experience!

with Rachel
Rachel Slater 25/May/15 2nd O/S

The whole experience was a bit of an adventure! I really don't know where the spike was too? Maybe we swung right before it rather than laybacking higher first? Laybacking would have been hard anyway as the crack was pure slime.

with Misha
Hidden 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
nathanlee 20/Apr/14 2nd
with Rob Greenwood
mike mo ??/2014 -
soph 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Fred_Richard 27/Aug/11 2nd
with bill turner
matthewjames 18/Aug/11 AltLd rpt

Led the second pitch, got flash pump on the first overhang and had to go down to rest and get the big cam I'd already placed to use in that spot. Took me a long time to figure out the 2nd overhang but eventually lay backed it easily.

with Tom Dixom
Hidden 20/Sep/08 AltLd
morganator 23/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Neil McAdie
gforce 03/Aug/08 2nd
with Jason
Hidden ??/2006 -
Tim M ??/2004 Lead O/S
Billg ?/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
rc ??/1996 2nd
with Ian Lewis
FATBOYFAT ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Iain Connor
rc ??/1995 2nd
with Ian Lewis
Mike Owen 17/Aug/85 -
with Ian Carr
Dave Musgrove 25/Apr/84 Lead

Brilliant route!

with Kenny Winkworth
Mark Kemball 01/Apr/83 Lead
with Mark Roberts
Steve Lewis 16/Jun/79 AltLd O/S
with Charlie
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