Sunlover*** E3 5c
[Sunlover, Trevallen, Pembroke, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
One of Pembroke's most famous routes follows the shiny arete. There is a bit of polish at the start, but not higher up where it matters. Make a steep pull up to the break, then swing left and move up to place some wires (possibly the crux). Climb the fingery wall above to reach better holds. Trend rightwards under some bulges then move up onto a large ledge. Climb the corner above and exit a little further right than is obvious. © ROCKFAX

FA. N.Colton 5.4.80 05/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Very good routes in the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Photo: Sunlover, Trevallen, Pembroke © Ged Desforges
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This climb is in 230 logbooks, and on 23 wishlists.

The gear was super fiddly and the new house sized block just got in the way. Too hot and too much faff so sacked it.
benkelsey - Lead dnf - 15/Aug/15 with Shaun Humphreys

andy_pemberton - Lead - 19/Jul/15 with Steve Gibson

Start is scary and definitely dangerous with the boulder where it is - not the warm up I was expecting! Means you need to faff around placing gear, which is very fiddly. Got a good piece and then immediately tested it as my foot slipped, which actually bothered me quite a lot...great climbing though, but difficult gear placement.
ollie_e - Lead G/U - 17/May/15 with ro jones

red_rhodesha - 2nd - 17/May/15 with Ollie Elms

brices - 2nd rpt - 16/May/15 with Edd, Llinos

An amazing route, feels delicate and bold though
Llinos C - Lead β - 16/May/15 with Simon Brice

Team assent:-)
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 11/May/15 with Andy Makey

team tick andy lead to about 7m, i lead through to the thread till it all became to much for me, andy finished. Outstanding quality
admackie - Lead dog - 11/May/15 with andy

Had a bit of a moment on this, really wasn't the warmup i expected, great route though
brices - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/15 with Llinos

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/15

NuclearNev - 2015

Hidden - 27/Sep/14

A boulder has moved under the start, making it easier as you can step off for a rest before the tricky moves to get established on the wall.
drysori - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14

nathanlee - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Neil Mawson

Where has the block come from?! Didn't fancy the potential ankle breaking fall so bailed, but looks amazing.
spidermonkey09 - Lead dnf - 12/Sep/14 with Ellie Fuller

simon kimber - 2nd - 06/Sep/14 with Rob Andrews

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Sam Taylor

Apharri - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/14 with Dave Wharton

owain86 - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/14 with Will

Used the boulder, would be pretty contrived not to? Still a good route
wi11 - 2nd β - 30/Jul/14 with Owain Atkins

Without using the boulder.
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Justin Timms

Justin T - 2nd - 05/May/14 with Rachel

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/14 with Phil Dowthwaite

Absolutely loved it, brilliant finish
anguskille - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Tom Fenwick

Misha - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Tim Newton

The huge boulder has moved in the winter storms and now rests against the cliff base, a real shame as you can either totally miss the start by walking up the boulder, or do the start and then just step on to the boulder, or ignore the boulder which we did, but it makes it an eliminate. Also if you fluff the polished moves after the start (around and above the wires) you'll probably hit the boulder, so the route is now more dangerous. There was in fact an accident the day we did it where a leader fell and hit the boulder. The route improves a lot towards the top (some great moves) but unfortunately not as good as it used to be.
tim newton - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/14 with misha nepogodiev

Epic fail. Fell from 3 metres up trying to place a wire, getting tired then trying to retreat. Fell backwards and hit my head on the boulder pushed up against the route. Lucky to have escaped more serious injury.
Mark Grist - Lead dnf - 21/Apr/14

Great climbing and really enjoyed it once I got into it - wasn't expecting the end moves! Was nervous having seen the injury from someone who had come off earlier that day, which didn't help at the start! Think the presence of the boulder detracts from the climb a little but just ignored it - despite it being off putting and more than a little tempting to use!
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

The new block at the start totally changes the start of the route. Not impressed....
dswansonlow - 2nd rpt - 21/Apr/14 with Darren McMaster

fennerz - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Angus Kille

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead dnf - 19/Apr/14

Julian Cooper - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/14 with Stuart Knott

HAJ Francis - Lead O/S - Apr/14

phil64 - Lead rpt - Apr/14 with tom livingstone

Ground-up. Stupidly fell at the overlap before the break as I reached too high into greasy undercut and couldn't hold it. Lowered off, pulled ropes and went to the top. Went too direct at the top and nearly fluffed it again - too much alcohol swimming round my body? Block has moved at the bottom making the start redundant - though had climbed that bit in '10 before backing off.
Duncan Campbell - Lead G/U - 30/Mar/14 with Stag Do, Robbie

Dunc gave some beta.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with T.Ripley

ejected - 2014

mike mo - 2014

A really bad choice of warm-up! Bit disappointed by this really, found the start too polished to be enjoyable. Still good climbing, just not worth all the hype.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/13

Exceptional route. Found lots of reasonable/good wires going up to the break. Romany is a grade harder.
Ed morris - Lead β - 18/Aug/13 with Adam Bevan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead β - 11/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/13

Alice Thompson - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/13 with alice thompson, michael porter

Trainers. A bit over-confident. The absolute-limit of my trainer seconding. The flash pump stayed with me all day...
Daniel Heath - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/13 with Remus

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Very aesthetic route. Fun steep bit at the top.
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Remus

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Tom Vassen

piken - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Andy

Pippa - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Jamie Thornley

mountain_jay - 2nd - 04/May/13 with Pippa Froggatt

Very nice. Hard to protect but can be made safe with a smattering of small gear. Thin but steady ground so you should have time to place it.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Kate

soph - 2nd - 30/Mar/13 with Luke brooks

Nick Biven - 2013

jcw - 2013

irish paul - Lead O/S - 2013 with Sarah Black

Felt quite pumpy. Probably should have lead a warm up first.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/12 with AlexD

AlexD - 2nd - 17/Sep/12 with Ed

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/12

redjerry - TR O/S - Sep/12

Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Si 2

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with jacob loyd

jacobjlloyd - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/12 with Dougie

Previously backed off, still found this hard and a bit sketchy, gear in flared polished cracks is not inspiring.
Justin T - Lead β - 08/Apr/12 with Cherry

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12

bigie bob - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/12

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/12 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 05/Apr/12 with Adam Booth

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

steve_yo - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with smacks

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/11 with Mike

Gear seemed fine to me, though it took a while to fiddle in. Might feel sketchy without the right piece. The meat of it was over quickly, but from midway it was easy enough that I got to hang about and watch Andy on Yellow Pearls, and even take a few snaps!
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

Glyn - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Luke, Barni

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 29/Jun/11 with Glyn Hudson, Barni

barni - 2nd rpt - 28/Jun/11 with luke, Glyn

Up and down from the scary bit a couple of times, then Gaz finished it and i did it on his gear.
Richard Hall - Lead β - 05/Jun/11 with Gaz

Hard at E3, the wire placed after the break did not inspire!
colesy - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/11 with richard lade

centurion05 - Lead dog - 30/Apr/11

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with John Orr

I thought the death potential was a bit high for an E3! not really any hard moves, but fucking scary up to the horizontal break where you can finally get some gear in. i was shitting bricks!
markalmack - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/11 with james marjot

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

mwatson - 2011

liamoloughlin - Lead dog - 30/Aug/10

Mr Sparkle - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Liam O'Loughlin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10

completely unnecessary rest, should have just committed to the move as it was easy once i did.
frost - Lead dog - 28/Aug/10 with N Griffiths, D Garry

drcorbasisgod - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/10 with Johan Piper

NeilGriffiths - 2nd - 28/Aug/10 with Dave Garry, Simon Frost

Impressive rock and line, but awkward climbing on slippy rock (maybe bad conditions) and a kinda necky bottom 3rd - didnt feel top 50, but still 3*
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with alex mason

Abject gibbering failure, what was left of my lead ability this weekend evaporated on contact with the pool of damp salt deposit in the initial break to be replaced by fear and pump on discovering the true nature of the 'obvious' wire pockets above. Gutted.
Justin T - Lead dnf - 07/Aug/10 with Cherry

got pumped trying wrong nut at 6 meters,so came down,started again and got it right.brilliant.
Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/10 with mick

Crucial second bit of gear is no longer a number 6 wire but a yellow TCU!
Audrey @ The Castle - Lead β - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 03/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/10

got up above break, hung on crap cam, came back down, then went for it properly. Right at my limit, loved it, pornstar climbing at the top.
tommytuffa - Lead - 01/May/10 with james

barni - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10 with Liam fleming

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Mia Stacey

Seymore Butt - 2010

mux - 2010 with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths

jeffmcd56 - Lead O/S - 2010 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead β - 16/Aug/09

Owen put first few bits of gear in.
Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/09 with Owen Davies

feilx - Lead rpt - 01/Aug/09 with Heather

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09

Dave Bond - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Tim Banton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09

Shauna - 2nd dog - 24/May/09 with Jules

Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/09

feilx - 2nd rpt - 19/Apr/09 with Andy Mosienko

Brown - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with John

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/09

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08 with Gus Hudgins

morganator - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08 with James Hall and Neil McAdie

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Mike Todd

datoon - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with K

gforce - Lead - 03/Aug/08 with Jason

feilx - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/08 with Andy L

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/08

Awesome climbing but got ridiculously pumped trying to fiddle too many wires in and lobbed just before the break...doh...very varied climbing...
Chad123 - AltLd dog - 17/May/08 with Emily

my word! pure pembroke class all the way. very very good and what a beautiful wall.
ksjs - Lead O/S - 06/May/08 with goosebump

spacey - 2nd O/S - 05/May/08 with Clive

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Ben Harper

Ben Harper - 2nd dog - 10/Feb/08 with Dan Barbour

bfreeman - 2nd - 09/Feb/08 with Jon Freeman

jfreeman - Lead β - 09/Feb/08 with Ben Freeman

Julian Wedd - 2nd - 2008 with A. Howarth

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 06/Sep/07

stiff little E3, goey once you leave the ground until the ledge, with only poor rests after the horizontal break. excellent.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Steve Ramsden

Rob Kennard - 2007

haydng - 2nd O/S - 2007 with Rob

janegallwey - 2nd - 2007

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Aug/06

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/06 with Tom Pascall

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/06

Done it before in the 80's
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 01/May/06 with Dave Taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/06

Pythonist - 2nd O/S - Apr/06 with Alun Evans

Boy - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

Bern - 2006

nathanmanc - Lead O/S - 2006 with Chris Todd

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/05

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/05

Dan Savory - Lead O/S - 29/May/05

Hidden - 2nd dog - Mar/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2005

1st route in pembroke. awesome!
Gus - Lead O/S - 29/May/04

Smith42 - 2nd - 2004

fyfee8a - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/03

spidey - Lead - 25/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/03

Getting polished at the start
Si Clapham - Lead - 2002 with Big Ade

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2002

shoulders - Lead - 27/Aug/01 with mart, andy sharp, dai

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Jul/01

Billg - Lead O/S - 2001

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/00

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Tim M - 2000

Rich Kirby - Lead - 04/Apr/99 with Chris Read

WB - Lead O/S - 1999 with Guy

GuyM - 1999

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/98

Rich Kirby - 2nd - Jun/97 with Stewart Lancaster

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/97

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Apr/97

sadams - Lead - 28/Mar/97 with John Boyle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1997

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/96

phardman - Lead - 07/Sep/95 with Jon Bibby

Hidden - 2nd - 1995

neilh - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/94 with sara hyde

David led.
Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 11/Apr/93 with Pete Finklaire, David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/93 with Pete Finklaire, Dad

hot and sunny. Got gripped badly on this.
innes - Lead O/S - Aug/92 with Chris

whispering nic - Lead O/S - Jun/92

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/92 with Andy Sharp

Roget - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/91 with jon

Led as the sun went down. My second couldn't get up it, couldn't prussick and was benighted. I abseiled down for moral support and we had to wait until the tide had dropped for a traverse across to St Govan's Head!
jfletcher - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/91 with Tom Julier

steve taylor - Lead - Aug/90 with Jim Waddington

Rich Kirby - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/90 with Will (S. Williamson)

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - 02/Jun/89

Hidden - Lead - May/89

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Apr/89

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 26/Mar/89 with George MacIntyre

great E3
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1989

craig h - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/88 with Luke Steer

Hidden - Lead - 10/Sep/88

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 06/Apr/88 with Phil Baker

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/87 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/87

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/87

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/87 with SimonGee

andy gittins - 1987

bullybones - Lead - 1987

before the polish!
Gregory - Lead - Jun/86 with terry ralphs

keefe - 19/Feb/86

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986

shark - Lead - 14/Apr/85 with Spud & Nick

Hidden - AltLd - 1985

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 02/May/84 with Nick MacFarlane

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 24/Apr/84 with Pete Finklaire

steve L - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/84 with Clive Curle

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/83 with Phil Ralph

Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/83

Mark Kemball - Lead - 07/Sep/82 with Paul Clark, Steve Finch

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/81

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mike Todd, EyebrowTom, gurumed, Andrew Nelson, JonmapDL, Ollie B, fabricio, Pathological_Climber, Dan_Carroll, derekb, Owen W-G, lukea, waltersp, Tommy G, klatremus, Ched, a_radiohead_fan

Total votes cast 154
hard E40 of 55
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U