UKC Logbook - 'The Beast from the Undergrowth'

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Pembrokeshire > Huntsman's Leap >

The Beast from the Undergrowth

E2 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Wrap-Up

Feeding on the Beast >>

[Mark grappling with the Beast from the undergrowth in the superbly strange Hunstmans Leap, 3 kb]

This is probably the most popular route in the Leap, it starts at the big flake/groove left of the smooth black wall. Step right from the top of the flake and pull over a bulge. Follow a line of holds up rightwards to a roof. Step back left and make a l-o-n-g pull over this to reach good holds above. Shorties may want to use the two alternative sequences which don't need a reach. Follow the wall above with care, keeping slightly right. © ROCKFAX
FA. G.Gibson 19.3.84 19/Mar/1984

Ticklists: Huntsmans Leap.

Photo: Mark grappling with the Beast from the undergrowth in the superbly strange Hunstmans Leap © mark s davies
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 232 logbooks, and on 27 wishlists.

Spent a loooong time and got pumped before committing to the crux, which was ok in the end but I couldn't get great gear in so not very well protected. Topped out and had a chat with Don Saergent who'd taken photos of me on the route.
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Dan Heath

With Darren. Not too bad but thought the undercut traverse was technical.
Daniel Heath - 2nd rpt - 05/May/13

First time in the leap. Fun.
Olli-C - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Rachel Slater

First route in the leap!
r fizzle - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13 with Olli Crudge

Trying to keep out of the wind. Felt harder than it used to.
Dave Musgrove - 2nd rpt - 30/Mar/13 with David

25 years since we did it as my first big sea cliff lead. Less stressful but just as good.
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 30/Mar/13 with Dad

Great route! First time in the leap
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Charlotte

ksjs - 2nd rpt - 07/Sep/12 with owen

dav - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Gill B

Fairly stiff cruxes but not reachy with good footwork and use of minor holds.
pembrokeshirecaver - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Stefan Morris

Stefan_Morris - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Dickon Morris

ojp - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Dave

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12

Great climbing, never too hard.
robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Si

Ed morris - Lead rpt - 10/Aug/12 with Adam Bevan

Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Si

Very good, must come back and get properly after a few more E2s ... was intimidated by the first crux and rested, then escaped right higher to easier but still very good climbing.
Dizz - Lead - 29/Jul/12 with george

Avoided the main roof to the right, up a grassy gully.
GBM - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/12 with Liz F

theotherpetehill - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Ross McKerchar

quiffhanger - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12

First time in the leap, what a place! The lower section was very damp (spring tides probably soaked it) then brilliant climbing above, particularly getting past the first bulge.
David Kay - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Mel Michon

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12

Tim Rodgers - 2nd - 04/Jun/12 with Mike Lea

jakelodge - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Harry Thorpe

Not reachy with a bit of technique. Great to finally get down the leap though, what a crag!
Harry Thorpe - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Jake Lodge

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Nick Smith

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with ciaran tracey

Hidden - 2nd - 07/May/12

chris_B - 2nd - 05/May/12 with Hamish Dunn

melonmike - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Josh

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/12

cayteye - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with stephen pearson

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

Excellent route, an inspiration to get to the E numbers!
Wil.Hooke - 2nd dog - 15/Oct/11 with Dan Wicks, Olly

AlexD - 2nd - 02/Oct/11 with Sophie

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Alex

John Brayshaw - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Daniel Justice

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11

Had to climb in two pitches to avoid the incoming tide. The l-o-n-g move isn't necessary - there are other ways to do the move around the second bulge.
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Ann Chong

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/11

stretch isnt that bad if you use your feet.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/11 with L.Postlewaith

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/11 with Mike

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/11 with ed morris

Matthew Robinson - 2nd - 08/Aug/11 with John Nuttall

redjerry - TR O/S - Aug/11

First climbing out of huntsmans. Seconded Jon. Was ok - big reaches.
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/11 with Jon Stewart

great moves all the way, great gear
msoldn - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/11 with Andy L

jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

Good protectyion but you have to move above it a bit on the two bulges
mountain.martin - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/11

benchwarmer - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Konrad

HVS for the tall..?
Stone Muppet - Lead β - 05/Jun/11 with am

Cool route, first lead in the Leap. Good gear, fun moves... Oddly enough I found the first bulge nails and the second bulge duff. The route was nicely chalked which was useful.
AJM - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Ali Baylay

tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with howard, ollie b

First route in the leap. Brilliant. Long move not an issue with a pleasant alternative sequence.
Jon_Warner - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Dan P

Joughton - 2nd O/S - 29/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/11

First time in the leap and abbed in without rock shoes... What a tit! Climbed out for last route of a gruelling (but great) day in partners boots, 2 sizes too big and 3 layers on. Horrible mess, overheating and nastily strung out at crux. What a route though.... And what a place!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 27/May/11

al99 - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Mike Coles

centurion05 - 2nd - 01/May/11

Really fun
Daniel Heath - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Remus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

been on the tick-list for ages. first time in the leap (stunning) made a mess of the first roof but found the second ok after finding a good sequence. took fookin ages though - sorry guys.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Allun, Remus Knowles

John Roe - 2nd - 29/Apr/11 with Andy Woolston

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/11 with richard lade

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

mwatson - 2011

fairly good, but a bit polished.
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/10

Fran S8 - Lead - 29/Aug/10

Second route in the Leap and last one of the day. The tide was just a few metres away from Phil by the time he started seconding. Really nice route, deserves three stars. More sustained than Shape Up but the couple of cruxy sections over bulges are both easier than the start of Shape Up, making for a more balanced route. E2 only because a bit bold on the cruxes.
Misha - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Phil

Very straight forward and well protected.
philhilo - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with misha

Hidden - 2nd β - 29/Aug/10

cem - 2nd rpt - 29/Aug/10 with Mark O'Neill

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with zappa

drcorbasisgod - 2nd rpt - 28/Aug/10 with Johan Piper

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

nice undercut on the crux, bit different from standard pembroke fare
Dr Caterpillar - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Norwegians

Graham Iles - Lead - 15/Aug/10 with Neil Stabbs

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with sarah

d_meacher - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Paul Black, Dave Ripley

dave657 - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with paul b

irish paul - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Dave Ripley

Nice to do a route in Huntsmans. E2 is probably about right - but a fairly easy one.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Mike Todd

Rich Kirby - 2nd rpt - 05/Aug/10 with Nige

nige - Lead - 05/Aug/10 with richard kirby

great climb with an awesome crux, great gear and much easier than it looks
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Aug/10

avoided the proper line and escaped up the exit avoiding the overhang. The moves above the first threads were solid.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10 with arthur

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10

mynyddresident - Lead - 12/Jun/10 with Mandy T

DanH9883 - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/10 with Julia

Had a bit of 'assistance' for the hard move!
hepitt - 2nd dog - 23/May/10 with Rob Pitt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/10

metal arms - Lead O/S - 03/May/10

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 02/May/10 with Thomas Renshaw

fell of making the move that Ballsford made when he went off route - was right at limit of my reach till managed the crux reach though...just!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - 2nd dog - 26/Feb/10 with Ben Alsford

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/09

Paul Bowen - 2nd - 26/Sep/09 with Rebecca Hayes

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Sep/09

Paul Bowen - Lead β - 13/Sep/09 with Rebecca Hayes

ian d f - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Pete H

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Aug/09

loundsy - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/09 with bex

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 17/Aug/09 with loundsy

Shauna - 2nd rpt - 16/Aug/09 with Steve

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Jules

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/09

Becky finally lead it after trying a few years ago, must be the 10th time ihave done this route!! the threads aren't getting any better so back em up.
loundsy - 2nd rpt - 21/Jun/09 with bex

belay bunny turned bad - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/09

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 19/Jun/09 with GF

lukea - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with dan

really good fun, very classic with a tricky crux that feels quite run out (but youd be fine if you fell).
ksjs - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with goosebump

Hidden - Lead β - 02/May/09

simonp - Lead O/S - May/09 with Neil Stabbs

Tim M - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 13/Apr/09 with cheesesarnie

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - 2nd - 2009

Tim Steward - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Steve Cayzer

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/08

stuc - 2nd - 10/Aug/08 with morse

Yikes!
sara n - 2nd - 27/Jul/08 with Nev

Greg Pittam - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/08 with Andrew Bitmead

First visit to the leap. Bit of a soft touch, felt easier than Shape Up.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Gav

Bit more run out than I remembered it, but short, sharp cruxes. The munchkins found the long reaches hard work...
Chad123 - Lead rpt - 05/May/08 with Sam and Susie

jfreeman - 2nd - 03/May/08 with Ben Freeman

bfreeman - Lead β - 03/May/08 with Jon Freeman

sam83 - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 2008

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/07 with Andy Webster

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/07

jfreeman - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Ben Freeman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/07

Hidden - Aug/07

Paz - 2nd rpt - 17/Jun/07 with TS

tom_1985 - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Ant S

Slightly dissapointed with this despite good crux sections.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 04/May/07 with Steve Ramsden

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Apr/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

janegallwey - Lead - 2007

Wil Treasure - Lead - 2007

david morse - Lead rpt - Aug/06 with charlotte turtle

Fantastic setting, couple of tricky sections, including one that pitched me off.
clipskipper - 2nd dog - 17/Jul/06 with Davey Boy

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 02/Jul/06 with martina

Ben1983 - Lead β - May/06

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/06

Boy - 2006

Bern - 2006

Si Clapham - 2006

ian caton - Lead O/S - 2006 with Abi

Jus - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/05

Tried the direct method on the crux this time. Not too tricky if you find the hold and not as reachy as its reputation suggests.
Alan James - UKC and UKH - 2nd - 17/May/05 with Susan Hatchell

Found a cunning left-hand method to do the crux using a tiny undercut and avoiding any long reaches.
Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 15/May/05 with Mark Glaister

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/05

Paul Evans - Lead O/S - May/05 with Garan

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

daveayton - Lead O/S - 2005 with Kev Power

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

phardman - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/04

The Pylon King - 2nd O/S - Aug/04 with Jack G

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 30/May/04 with Roy Thomas

cem - Lead O/S - 02/May/04 with Rod Strachan

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/04

Hidden - Lead - 12/Oct/03