UKC Logbook - 'The Butcher'

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Pembrokeshire > St. Govan's Head >

The Butcher

E2 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Chieftain

Vice is Nice >>

[Posing for his photo on The Butcher, 2 kb]

Easy E3 or hard E2, the discussions will go on for ever - this time we have gone with the harder grade, next time, who knows? Start below the arete and climb a crack in its right-hand side. Make a satisfying move leftwards to a jug on the arete, then move back right to finish. Some people accidentally continue direct from where the crack ends which makes it about 6a (and proper E3!). © ROCKFAX
FA. P.Littlejohn 26.4.80 26/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ben's Pembroke Ticklist.

Photo: Posing for his photo on The Butcher © Jus
View all 19 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 317 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

khalidq - 2nd dog - 19/May/13 with Rob Powell

1 move wonder - but a good one
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Dan Cook

wolverine - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Thunderthighsontheloose

Thunderthighsontheloose - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with Mike Hayes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

"It looked easy" from the ground so thought I'd have a go. I knew I wouldn't have the fitness for a stamina route like this! Pumped out getting gear in just before the crux (which was a bit fiddly without small cams!) and had to lower off!
Will Hunt - Lead dnf - 05/May/13 with Dave Smith

markalmack - 2nd rpt - 05/May/13 with gwen

Hidden - 2nd - 05/May/13

Last route of a big 5 day return to climbing after a winter of skiing. Trashed
morganator - AltLd - 05/May/13 with Stan Halstead

jacobjacob - Lead rpt - 04/May/13

burto - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with hertha

dswansonlow - 2nd rpt - 30/Mar/13 with Emma Twyford

barni - 2nd - 29/Mar/13 with Oates

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 29/Mar/13 with Sophie

amazing arete, really cool feature
willoates - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with barni

soph - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/13 with Luke brooks

Hidden - 2013

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Sep/12

Didn't think I was going to make it. Got up thanks to some moral support from Ross and Harry at the top (and a fair bit of swearing). A great route up a striking feature!
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

HarryB - 2nd dog - 22/Sep/12 with Ross

Fun moves around the arete
Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/12 with Dave O

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/12

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12

Harry Chaplin - Lead O/S - Sep/12

redjerry - TR O/S - Sep/12

dav - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/12 with Gill B

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/12

Had seconded once before. Really enjoyed it though. Felt comfortable. Pip popped her head over at the crux to say hello!
mountain_jay - Lead β - 25/Aug/12 with Martin Grenfell

Brilliant climbing. Well worth fiddling in plenty of gear from the jug to keep a Cool head during the run-out.
robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Dave Foster

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Nick Smith

Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Robin

Finally committed to the crux, felt ok despite hot greasy conditions. One failed lead previously.
Ed morris - Lead RP - 10/Aug/12 with Adam Bevan

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12 with jacob loyd

jacobjlloyd - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/12 with Dougie

Bit of a one move wonder but what a move! Great route.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/12

very windy,greasy intitial crack, big sea's and alot of sea spray. felt e3 in those conditions!
Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12 with jim, Dan

Awesome! Wanted to do this for ages.
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12

Rick Ashton - 2nd dog - 29/Jul/12 with Robert Drynda

James Marshall - 2nd - 22/Jul/12 with Pete Shepherd

davesimpson - Lead β - 01/Jun/12 with tadas the badass

Awesome!
theotherpetehill - Lead β - 27/May/12 with Caroline Culwick

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12

richardr - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with John Mcshea

Billg - 2nd - 19/May/12 with Ollie

previously 2nd, nice to finally do
Ollie B - Lead β - 19/May/12 with B.Gregory

Previously led O/S
ellis - 2nd rpt - 19/May/12 with Alan Willoner

With some of the gear already in place (retrieved for another party). Great route.
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Al Benson

al99 - 2nd rpt - 12/May/12 with Luke Hodson

Kyuzo - 06/May/12

conorcussell - 2nd - 05/May/12

Hidden - TR dog - 02/May/12

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Glyn Hudson

Glyn - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Luke

sam820 - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Murdoch

quadmyre - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Cherry

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/12

Oddjob - 2nd β - 07/Apr/12 with Markus

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/12

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/12 with ciaran tracey

Ciro - 2nd O/S - 04/Mar/12 with Ramon

Adam Coles - Lead rpt - Mar/12 with ben park

centurion05 - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Amazing route. 3 stars for me.
EliotStephens - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Rhydian Evans

Good where it mattered!!, great climb!!
Goose4 - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Euan McKendrick

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Aug/11

Caspar - 2nd - 13/Aug/11 with Ross Davidson

E3, just
liam - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Ollie B

made the crux but the hold wasnt as good as expecting, pumped myself silly having not climbed anything but slabs in a long time. Fell off hit the arete and f*cked my ankles..
scorpia97 - Lead dnf - 13/Aug/11 with Caspian

Pumpy... understatement of the century :)
Stanley - TR dog - 04/Aug/11 with Cragking

tonanf - AltLd - Aug/11 with john sun

tatz45 - Lead O/S - Aug/11 with Katy Vose

mr mills - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Gareth

dj hannaford - 2nd dog - 29/Jul/11

Crux felt hard, really balancy moves. Good climb though.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Mike

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with rob lay

Fell off (like a muppet) downclimbing from the crux, while trying to work out what to do. Lowered off and led it clean from the ground. Not even that hard. Muppet!
Vertigo1 - Lead β - 23/Jul/11 with Harry

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 23/Jul/11

mountain.martin - 2nd rpt - 16/Jul/11

Ed morris - TR O/S - 04/Jul/11 with -martin

mountain.martin - TR O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Edmund

Bloody amazing.
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

pipof747 - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/11

HamishD - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Wil Treasure

Wil Treasure - 2nd - 30/Jun/11 with hamdunn

On Gaz's gear as it was getting late and starting to rain. Should have done it properly really. Good route.
Richard Hall - Lead β - 05/Jun/11 with Gaz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/11

Unbelievable positions at the top. The holds are great and the moves are sublime. Getting a hand and then a foot on that arete jug are about the best things that will ever happen to you around this grade (whichever grade you decide that is)!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 27/May/11

frost - 2nd - 27/May/11 with Pete H, D Garry

Still good second time around
mux - 2nd - 27/May/11 with Pete Harrison, frost

al99 - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Mike Coles

Hidden - May/11

halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead O/S - May/11

zero six - Lead O/S - May/11

very nice line.
Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Jon Fane

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 27/Apr/11 with John Orr

Great route. Bold move onto the flake that took a couple of tries.
squicky - 2nd dog - 26/Apr/11 with spidey

spidey - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11

Great effort by Twisty on the lead, didn't feel particularly hard on the second but I'm sure the lead is completely different!
Byronius Maximus - 2nd β - 26/Apr/11 with Alex Twist

Yet again, thanks to Andy I was on a climb beyond my abilities. That said a fantastic experience, thanks Andy.
John Roe - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Andy Woolston

There's many reasons why I fell. Losing 4 points of contact has to be the primary one. 1 fall, then finished it to the top in the rain.
TommityP - Lead dog - 22/Apr/11

ben1987 - 22/Apr/11 with Adam Coles

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/11

Greasy at the bottom and a Jug full of water before the crux. Tricky pumpy climbing up to this. Put loads of gear in before going for it. E3 in damp conditions? Maybe if totally dry it would be hard E2? Whatever the grade, I had to fight the pump on this, as I'm not usually very good at steep, sustained routes. Absolutely three star classic!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Florence the Machine

Sooo pumpy!
hetaher - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Duncan Campbell

Great fun! Really memorable crux, got a cheeky no-hands-rest on it (no, not just hangin on the gear). Bucket jug was a puddle! Probs just tough E2, just gota go for it with confidence
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with alex mason

markalmack - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/11 with james marjot

Rory Shaw - 2011

31770 - 2nd - 2011

jfane - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2011

dogged previously 07/May/09
Ed Babs - Lead β - 25/Sep/10 with Harry

Brown - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/10 with James T

i_a_coops - Lead β - Sep/10 with Jacob

Mr Sparkle - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Liam O'Loughlin

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with zappa

drcorbasisgod - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/10 with Johan Piper

Still feels like E3 2nd time about.
NeilGriffiths - 2nd - 29/Aug/10 with Dave Garry, Simon Frost

frost - 2nd - 28/Aug/10 with N Griffiths, D Garry

I think it is E2. Probably E3 if you fell off!
liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10

Vince McNally - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Sumee Holloway

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

Pippa - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/10

luke1986 - Lead - 14/Aug/10 with si Hill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10

Graham Iles - 2nd - 13/Aug/10 with Neil Stabbs

Jenny Seaborne - TR dog - 08/Aug/10

hms - TR dog - 08/Aug/10

catblack - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/10 with Andy Barker

Great sustained climbing followed by a testing crux.It would be very eliminate to avoid using the arete at the top (I presume this is what is described as being the 6a version) as you're right on the arete the whole way even though you follow the crack.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Cat Black

Standard E2
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/10 with Mike Todd

Fran S8 - Lead - 31/Jul/10

metal arms - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

Rose Williams - 2nd dog - 16/Jun/10 with Gareth

2nd effort after a ground sweeper on the Friday. Ace.
Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead - 14/Jun/10 with Rose Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/May/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 29/May/10

Andrew.Davies - 2nd - 04/May/10 with Mr Fingers

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/May/10

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 01/May/10

Hidden - 2nd β - 01/May/10

Matthew Gray - 2nd β - May/10

First rout at pembroke, so intimidating, awesome
tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/10 with james

barni - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/10 with Liam fleming

had to do it this year as i chickening out last year. woop woop
going going gone - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/10

bit pumped, wasn't too sure about my gear either, fun tho
anguskille - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/10 with Tom and Ed

mattyork2 - 2nd - 09/Apr/10 with Mia Stacey

miastacey - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Matt Maynard

Tim W - 2nd rpt - 07/Mar/10 with Paul Black

irish paul - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Tim W

Andrew.Davies - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

mux - 2010 with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths

dave657 - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Tim

Tim W - Lead rpt - 18/Oct/09 with Dave Ripley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09

quiffhanger - Lead - 21/Sep/09

the new rockfax says its an easy E3 - well i certainly climbed easier E3s! maybe i was nackered from days climbing...
ian d f - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/09 with Pete H

took a long(for me) fall going too direct.should have read the new discription! awesome air time. awesome, if greasy, route.
w.pettet-smith - Lead RP - 22/Aug/09 with claire jane carter

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Aug/09

One rest after faffing around trying to place a cam from the good hold on the arete. E3 in the new guide, which is fair although lower end. fantastic route.
Dan_Carroll - Lead dog - 16/Aug/09 with Rebecca Holland

Beckholland - 2nd dog - 16/Aug/09 with Dan_Carroll

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead β - 16/Aug/09

definitely e3. done many easier e3's. pumpy but great.
lukea - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/09 with Nathan M

Finally !!
belay bunny turned bad - Lead RP - 05/Aug/09 with loundsy

loundsy - 2nd rpt - 05/Aug/09 with bex

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/09

simonp - Lead - Aug/09 with Annelies Sarrazyn

scary belaying.. strenous removable of fallen on nuts...
clairejane - 2nd - Aug/09 with will

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/09

down climbed the crux twice before i gave in and made marcus do it!!!
belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 25/Jul/09 with marcus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/09

Sam the Butcher - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/09 with andy latta and tom ce

alaan - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jun/09

Dave Bond - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/09 with Tim Banton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/09

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/09 with Tim Jepson

bottled it ten years ago and had to do it on a rope to get gear out. felt fine this time :)
loundsy - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/09 with bex

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/09

ksjs - Lead rpt - 24/May/09 with goosebump

david morse - Lead rpt - 02/May/09 with Juan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Sep/08

tonanf - AltLd - 08/Aug/08 with Pep

gforce - Lead - 06/Aug/08 with Jason

HughM - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Shane Norton

Barn doored on the crux - dammit!
sara n - 2nd - 26/Jul/08 with Nev

andi turner - Lead - 18/Jul/08 with Gus Hudgins

feilx - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/08 with Andy L

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/08

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 25/May/08 with Gerry Sheehy

Couldn't trust myself on the right hand crimp below the nose on the arette. Got pumped silly faffing about and then fell off, twice or was it three times?
RocknRoll - 2nd dog - 24/May/08 with Ramon Marin Martinez

awesome climb.
riddle - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/May/08

Richard Horn - 2nd - 17/May/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 07/May/08

just class and i finished it this time round. probably just about E3 but safe as houses with good climbing in a great position - feels like proper trad
ksjs - Lead rpt - 07/May/08 with goosebump

spacey - 2nd O/S - 01/May/08 with Clive

bfreeman - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Jon Freeman

jfreeman - 2nd - 09/Feb/08 with Ben Freeman

Hidden - Lead rpt - Feb/08

westaway - Lead O/S - Jan/08

Julian Wedd - 2nd - 2008 with A. Howarth

Docent - Lead β - 06/Oct/07 with stecu

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Andy Webster

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/07

One rest, Doh!
ASchwirtz - Lead dog - 09/Jun/07 with Crystina Common

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/07

Tim W - 2nd O/S - 20/May/07 with Ali Kennedy

Hidden - 2nd dog - 05/May/07

Still think it's just about worth E3....
Chad123 - 2nd - 05/May/07 with Emily

found this rather steady, excellent nontheless, with a brilliant crux section.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 03/May/07 with Steve Ramsden

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Apr/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

a_radiohead_fan - Oct/06

Gus - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/06 with simon "the horse" wilson

givemetea - Lead RP - 23/Aug/06 with Lucy Creamer

givemetea - 2nd β - 21/Aug/06 with Lucy Creamer

lukea - 2nd O/S - Jul/06 with Al

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/06 with Steve

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/06 with Dave Taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/06

Pythonist - 2nd O/S - Apr/06 with Alun Evans

dan gibson - 2006

Bern - 2006

haydng - 2006

Chad123 - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Huw

Chubbard - Lead β - 16/Jul/05 with C Godfrey

bronsonite - Lead O/S - 20/May/05 with Johnny McMillen

Ben1983 - Lead dog - May/05

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Mar/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

daveayton - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2005

One of my better leads at Pembroke - completely cruised it :) Really laced it with gear at the crux moves about 2/3rds because I'd already seen some big falls on the route!
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead β - Aug/04

cem - Lead dnf - 03/May/04 with Rod Strachan

Hidden - 2nd - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/03

ian caton - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with stewart

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - Dec/01

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Sep/01

Hidden - Lead - 26/Aug/00

Billg - Lead O/S - Jul/00 with Megan Beaumont

jonka - Lead - 2000

Tim M - 2000

Richard White - 1999