24m.

Rockfax Description
Easy E3 or hard E2, the discussions will go on for ever. Start below the arete and climb a crack in its right-hand side. Make a satisfying move leftwards to a jug on the arete, then move back right to finish. Some people accidentally continue direct from where the crack ends which makes it about 6a (and proper E3!). © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 26/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E2 ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Chris_barr 11/Sep 2nd
with Jo
Dale Comley 04/Sep Lead O/S

First Pembroke lead. Jug at 2/3 height was full to the brim with water, decent climbing though.

Charlie Low 04/Sep 2nd dog
cpforbes 28/Aug 2nd O/S
Gabe Oliver 28/Aug Lead

Came off the thin-ish moves above the arete jug. Gutted to not get the onsight but was a good fall non the less and got it cleanly after that. Low end E3 in my books just cause of the exposure of being on that narrow arete.

beni 27/Aug Lead
with Jess
red quinnie 27/Aug 2nd O/S
with Beni
williap 27/Aug 2nd dog
scottcoates 27/Aug Lead O/S
with williap
Lenny 27/Aug Lead O/S
with Hidden
Mike W 27/Aug Lead O/S
with chris
amccann 24/Aug Lead O/S
with Shaun H
Chriswallis2 23/Aug Lead β
with Mike W
M_Robinson 18/Aug 2nd rpt
with Chris Shepherd, Adam Bowman
Adam24B 18/Aug 2nd
with Mike Robinson, Chris Shepherd
matt1024 13/Aug 2nd β
with Chrissy, Luke Doherty
pete johnson 08/Aug 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/Aug Lead O/S
shed_hed 07/Aug 2nd rpt
robpartridge 07/Aug Lead
Chris Redding 06/Aug Lead O/S

First E3. Was quite pumped on the rest hold before the crux. Got 4 pieces of gear before I relaxed and started to recover.

AlexD 06/Aug Lead O/S

Tougher and easier than expected!

with Ed
Jack93 06/Aug 2nd rpt
Hidden 31/Jul Lead O/S
JenShelley 31/Jul 2nd O/S
with Ed
Tom Pillow 20/Jul Lead dnf

Damn it, found the wrong hold after the crux and though that was the jug. ended up falling off. took wipper, Jake flew up, hit arete.... should have just gone for next moves instead of clinging to shit slopper to place cam. Need to do more endurance training and rack differently.

with jake, Luke Richardson, Will Rivers
Hidden 07/Jul Lead O/S
Ash Sayers 05/Jul 2nd O/S
markalmack 03/Jul 2nd rpt

trickier than i remembered

WB 03/Jul Lead O/S

this was actually a repeat, but faded memories are not always right...

Billg 02/Jul 2nd rpt
with Will Calvert
WillAndrew 02/Jul Lead O/S

First E3(ish)!

with James S
James S 02/Jul 2nd rpt
with Will Bristol
W d c 02/Jul Lead O/S

Airy, with gear.

with BILL G
Hugobristol 24/Jun Lead dnf

First attempt reached the hold on the arete but went back right and fell off the direct crimps. Second and third goes failed as i pumped out trying to place gear around the arete before committing to the layback sequence. Great route though- one i will be back for.

with Eleanor
j_aaake 24/Jun Lead O/S
Jack93 24/Jun Lead rpt

Awesome route! Seconded it and then immediately came back down to lead it

with Jake Atkinson
mrteale 21/Jun Lead RP

Got to the jug on the onsight attempt and found it full of rainwater, both hands soaking and didn't feel secure enough to do the crux. Ab'ed the line, dried out the hold and sent it next go.

with Tom
nigel bassam 17/Jun 2nd
with paul
rurp 03/Jun -

Steep but great holds. Hard to left and harder to gain next two feet!

Jonny Nick 02/Jun Lead O/S

Mega.. First E3...maybe (or E2.5 at least!)

Hidden 30/May TR O/S
Richard Kendrick 30/May Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 30/May 2nd dog
with Random Climber
Leedearden 28/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May Lead
NDD 28/May Lead O/S
Richard Kendrick 25/May 2nd rpt
jon_gill1 25/May Lead dog

got pumped and took the whipper from high on the arete after the crux,bit gutted but glad to get on it at last!

brices 08/May Lead rpt
with Llinos
theomoore 29/Apr Lead O/S

Great route, quite similar to L'horla at Curbar.

with Andy
Stefan_Morris 27/Apr Lead O/S
dobby 200 13/Apr Lead dog

I hung around at the jug for too long trying to figure out the arête, then fell off after greassing off the next brake

with Tom H
Adam24B 07/Apr Lead O/S

Great route, I think it might deserve E3 because of the run-out but the moves aren't massively difficult.

D.Russell 05/Apr Lead O/S
with Ramon
Ramon Marin 05/Apr 2nd rpt
with Douglas Russell
Hidden 18/Mar 2nd
Luke Brooks 18/Mar Lead rpt
with Kate
cdpuk 28/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Bernie L 28/Sep/15 Lead O/S
scott quinn 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

e2.5 really cool though!

Tom.Priestley 31/Aug/15 2nd dog

Fluffed it as i didn't use the heel hook. Silly.

benkelsey 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Total cruise. E2 for sure. Got totally psyched for Pembroke after this

with Shaun Humphreys
will smith11 07/Aug/15 Lead β

Onsight except Twisty told me to take the small cams, and I'm glad he did.

with Twisty
Hidden 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Dan724 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Brendan Fraser
james.slater 03/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
james1978 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with pam
alastairbegley 07/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Was feeling good so went for this, lost my nerve on the final hard move on the arÍte and too the ride down. The swing into the arÍte hurt!

with Richard
alastairbegley 07/Jun/15 2nd

Rested on the crux due to being knackered from my lead attempt

with Richard
Luxulyan 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Alastair
tobydunford 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
msoldn 25/May/15 Lead O/S

Wow, so worth the wait, great way to say good bye to Pembroke for a little while, what a route!

with Thomasina
FlavioL1989 25/May/15 Lead O/S

First E3 (ish)

Ramon Marin 24/May/15 Lead rpt

Warm up of the day, this route never gets old.

with viki harvey
ferdia 24/May/15 Lead O/S

very satisfying climbing. jug-fest.

with Clare Muir
Chris_barr 23/May/15 Lead O/S

First route in Pembroke! Well good.

with Gus
Gus 23/May/15 2nd
with chris barr
hutchay 16/May/15 2nd
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead rpt
brices 16/May/15 2nd rpt
with Edd, Llinos
Alex Winter 15/May/15 Lead O/S

Jumped straight on this, and ended up getting a bit pumped. Jug was full of water. It's an E3 from me.

jiles 15/May/15 2nd
Andy Peak 1 13/May/15 Lead O/S

Jug full of water ternd my hands to slime spent 10 min trying to dry my hands.

Andy Peak 1 13/May/15 2nd
admackie 13/May/15 Lead O/S

totally fun

with andy
climbomaniac 09/May/15 Lead O/S

Fun climbing!

quiffhanger 09/May/15 2nd rpt

Nicholas first route in Pembroke dispatched in style - cruised in 10mins flat with 5 bits of gear, then apologised for taking so long!

M_Robinson 04/May/15 Lead O/S
pearson9596 03/May/15 2nd O/S
ian d f 03/May/15 Lead rpt

Went direct from the cracks. Quite scary and damp once through the crux!

Richard Kendrick ?/May/15 Lead G/U
with Tim Johnston
Sardien 20/Apr/15 2nd dog

Did not throw for it sufficiently at the crux, dammit! Awesome climbing in awesome position

Hidden 17/Apr/15 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 11/Apr/15 2nd β

Climbed very efficiently by Andy! I copied his moves :)

with Andy Cmc
eel 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Al
Tom Livingstone 07/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Oli Grounsell
Jake Young 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Nick1812P 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tom A
Teappleby 06/Apr/15 2nd dog

So boxed!

Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
R2B 04/Apr/15 2nd

Totally spanked on the lead. Thanks to J for saving my ass.

with Justin
James Oswald 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Pumpy.

with Nick Duboust
JCAshman ?/Apr/15 Lead
Mark Warnett ?/Apr/15 Lead RP
tradandybrown ?/Apr/15 -
with Rob andrews
jonleighton 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
i_a_coops 15/Mar/15 Lead

went direct above the end of the crack this time as the arete was soaked. Greased out of the break above the crux on my first attempt, soggy rock doesn't really lend itself to dynamic movement...

Hidden ??/2015 -
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
gurumed 30/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with gjd
gjd 30/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Gurumed
duncandarnell 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with jord smith
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead β
Kirill 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Great position on the crux.

nathanlee 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Jack Lawledge
Ramon Marin 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with ciaran tracey
Ciro 13/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Crux has a cool move with real feeling of exposure. Seconded a couple of years ago so nice to get back and lead it.

with Ramon
spidermonkey09 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Taking the E3 tick for the onsight! Really pleased with this.

Hidden 08/Sep/14 2nd dog
gg4419 05/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Sep/14 2nd rpt
ollie_e 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
red_rhodesha 23/Aug/14 2nd
guy757 13/Jul/14 -
oliver.ghill91 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
beds74 22/Jun/14 TR

Quite sequency, did it twice barn door'd 1st time. Lovely moves in great position.

with Jon ginesi
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
MorganPreece 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/14 2nd
mynyddresident 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with KP
henry.jeffreys 12/Jun/14 TR RP
with UBMC
raymondlinklater 12/Jun/14 TR O/S
HazelMacLean 12/Jun/14 TR O/S

Cruised it (on top rope)

UBMC 12/Jun/14 TR
Patrick Hill 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 07/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Paddy
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead rpt
brices 17/May/14 2nd β

Nicely done Llinos

with Llinos
Llinos C 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 17/May/14 Lead

Could climb this route over and over again, so good, juggy romp to warm up before the stiff crux around the arete and a no-hands rest in an unlikely position, superb! Hard E2 for me, that crux is so well protected!

with Jack G
brices 16/May/14 Lead O/S
with Llinos
john lynch 16/May/14 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Gingerdarren 05/May/14 2nd O/S
with tom blight
thomb 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Darren
Olli-C 04/May/14 Lead dnf

Got passed the crux, got worried and didnt move my feet. Fell from jug on the arete.

with Adam Knightly
Justin T 03/May/14 2nd
with Rachel
Rachel Slater 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Misha 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
tim newton 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S
quiffhanger 21/Apr/14 2nd rpt

Ro's first E3. He breezed it!

anguskille 20/Apr/14 2nd rpt
The Grist 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
shed_hed 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Such a good route with jugs just where you need them!

PaulTanton 20/Apr/14 2nd rpt
dswansonlow 20/Apr/14 2nd rpt
fennerz 20/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Angus Kille
Kevster 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

A path, and well protected, but good.

Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Twisty 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Much easier when you know what to do. First attempt 2 years ago involved me accidentally doing the direct finish (or not doing it and taking the ride!) This time it went well but still felt a bit goey. Intended to do Army Dreamers (again) but after the ab it looked nice and easy so just got on it.

with Phil Baxter
adam 24 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Hobbs
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead rpt
bigie bob 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S
owain86 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 11/Apr/14 Lead
CharlieMack 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Direct up the arete from bottom to top. Amazing route!!

with Jen Maxfield
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead β
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
James S 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S

took a big whipper just after the crux on first attempt. went second go much easier. e3 to onsight I think but much easier once you know what to do.

with dan
Dan0Me 13/Mar/14 2nd
with James S
tonevert ??/2014 2nd
with Kevin Faux
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Neil ??/2014 Lead
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
Tubs 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Jug a puddle but not terminally so. Pleased with this as I had to commit. Brought up the century for 2013.

with Ian L, Liz F
robgixer 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Dizz 05/Oct/13 2nd
with Tom, Ian l
masa-alpin 05/Oct/13 2nd dog

Great moves at a fantastic position! Slipped and fell while retrieving a nut.

with Rob G
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead β
gurumed 30/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Ronnie
Rachel S 04/Sep/13 2nd
with Nik
steve.warrington 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Andrew Wilson 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Lessworkmoreclimbing 27/Aug/13 2nd dog

Seconded fine last time but found crux really balancy and awkward this time, could not do it at all.

with Kev
Matt Cooke 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
victim of mathematics 16/Aug/13 2nd dog

Steep! Rested ignominiously several times at the crux. Not a route for the terminally unfit!

with Andy
Hidden 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
nickstephens 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
gg4419 13/Aug/13 Lead dog

Turned the arÍte after making the crux moves, missed the next hold, buckled up and took the ride! Definitely coming back for this clean, such a great route.

Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead
Tom Livingstone 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Lessworkmoreclimbing 06/Aug/13 2nd

Crucial hold was wet, failed to work crux move out first time but enjoyed it when I got it. Would love to lead one day, great route!

with Kev
Dibdawg 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Great route good exposure on the crux!

with Richard Snow
cooperman 05/Jul/13 Lead β
with Greg Foster
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Alice Thompson 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Michael Porter
Pete Rigby 02/Jun/13 Lead β
with Kelli Roberts
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
kelliroberts3 02/Jun/13 2nd
skippington 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
clams ?/Jun/13 2nd dog

One rest at crux - pumped out

with Jim
Sarah Black ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
tebs 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Rich, Adam
mr mills 26/May/13 Lead rpt
with edwin
Alistair Corbett 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Sweet line and plenty of gear!

Rob84 25/May/13 2nd dog

Desperate - pretty much my anti-style! I fell off a lot from the crux onwards

with Mason, Ben Wolstenholme
khalidq 19/May/13 2nd dog
with Rob Powell
chris wyatt 18/May/13 Lead O/S

1 move wonder - but a good one

Mike_Hayes 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Will Hunt 05/May/13 Lead dnf

"It looked easy" from the ground so thought I'd have a go. I knew I wouldn't have the fitness for a stamina route like this! Pumped out getting gear in just before the crux (which was a bit fiddly without small cams!) and had to lower off!

markalmack 05/May/13 2nd rpt
with gwen
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd
morganator 05/May/13 AltLd

Last route of a big 5 day return to climbing after a winter of skiing. Trashed

with Stan Halstead
jacobjacob 04/May/13 Lead rpt
burto 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with hertha
dswansonlow 30/Mar/13 2nd rpt
with Emma Twyford
barni 29/Mar/13 2nd
with Oates
Luke Brooks 29/Mar/13 2nd
with Sophie
willoates 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S

amazing arete, really cool feature

with barni
soph 29/Mar/13 Lead rpt
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Nick Sillem ??/2013 Lead O/S
Sam Melville ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Nick Russell 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Didn't think I was going to make it. Got up thanks to some moral support from Ross and Harry at the top (and a fair bit of swearing). A great route up a striking feature!

HarryB 22/Sep/12 2nd dog
with Ross
Dangerous Dave 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Fun moves around the arete

with Dave O
dave o 17/Sep/12 2nd

Fell of leading it first!

Hidden 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S
gregoritos 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Harry Chaplin ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
redjerry ?/Sep/12 TR O/S
dav 29/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Gill B
Hidden 25/Aug/12 Lead
mountain_jay 25/Aug/12 Lead β

Had seconded once before. Really enjoyed it though. Felt comfortable. Pip popped her head over at the crux to say hello!

robin_hackney 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing. Well worth fiddling in plenty of gear from the jug to keep a Cool head during the run-out.

richiebongo 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
Dave Foster 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Robin
Ed morris 10/Aug/12 Lead RP

Finally committed to the crux, felt ok despite hot greasy conditions. One failed lead previously.

with Adam Bevan
dswansonlow 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 09/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Dougie
Joughton 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Bit of a one move wonder but what a move! Great route.

Aaron Lines 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S

very windy,greasy intitial crack, big sea's and alot of sea spray. felt e3 in those conditions!

with jim, Dan
Adam Booth 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Awesome! Wanted to do this for ages.

Rick Ashton 29/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Robert Drynda
James Marshall 22/Jul/12 2nd
with Pete Shepherd
davesimpson 01/Jun/12 Lead β
with tadas the badass
theotherpetehill 27/May/12 Lead β

Awesome!

with Caroline Culwick
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd O/S
richardr 19/May/12 Lead O/S
Billg 19/May/12 2nd
with Ollie
Ollie B 19/May/12 Lead β

previously 2nd, nice to finally do

with B.Gregory
ellis 19/May/12 2nd rpt

Previously led O/S

with Alan Willoner
lukehodson 12/May/12 Lead O/S

With some of the gear already in place (retrieved for another party). Great route.

al99 12/May/12 2nd rpt
with Luke Hodson
Kyuzo 06/May/12 -
Hidden 05/May/12 2nd
Hidden 02/May/12 TR dog
Luke Brooks 15/Apr/12 2nd
with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Luke
sam820 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Murdoch
Justin T 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Cherry
Hidden 07/Apr/12 2nd
Oddjob 07/Apr/12 2nd β
with Markus
pie_eater_pete 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
bwestwood ?/Apr/12 2nd
Richard James Edmunds ?/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Ramon Marin 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with ciaran tracey
Ciro 04/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Ramon
Adam Coles ?/Mar/12 Lead rpt
centurion05 ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
DubyaJamesDubya 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
EliotStephens 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Amazing route. 3 stars for me.

Rhydian Evans 23/Aug/11 2nd
Goose4 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Good where it mattered!!, great climb!!

Speeddemonsi 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
scorpia97 13/Aug/11 Lead dnf

made the crux but the hold wasnt as good as expecting, pumped myself silly having not climbed anything but slabs in a long time. Fell off hit the arete and f*cked my ankles..

with Caspian
Stanley 04/Aug/11 TR dog

Pumpy... understatement of the century :)

with Cragking
tonanf ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with john sun
tatz45 ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mr mills 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Gareth
dj hannaford 29/Jul/11 2nd dog
thomasadixon 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Crux felt hard, really balancy moves. Good climb though.

with Mike
C coldwell-storry 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with rob lay
Tomar 23/Jul/11 Lead β
with Harry
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd rpt
mountain.martin 16/Jul/11 2nd rpt
Ed morris 04/Jul/11 TR O/S
with -martin
mountain.martin 04/Jul/11 TR O/S
with Edmund
jacobjlloyd 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Bloody amazing.

pipof747 01/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
hamish2016 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Wil Treasure
drysori 30/Jun/11 2nd
with hamdunn
Richard Hall 05/Jun/11 Lead β

On Gaz's gear as it was getting late and starting to rain. Should have done it properly really. Good route.

with Gaz
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 27/May/11 Lead O/S

Unbelievable positions at the top. The holds are great and the moves are sublime. Getting a hand and then a foot on that arete jug are about the best things that will ever happen to you around this grade (whichever grade you decide that is)!

frost 27/May/11 2nd
with Pete H, D Garry
mux 27/May/11 2nd

Still good second time around

with Pete Harrison, frost
al99 14/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 -
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/May/11 Lead O/S
zero six ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Chi Cheng 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S

very nice line.

Luke Brooks 27/Apr/11 2nd
with John Orr
squicky 26/Apr/11 2nd dog

Great route. Bold move onto the flake that took a couple of tries.

with spidey
spidey 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Byronius Maximus 26/Apr/11 2nd β

Great effort by Twisty on the lead, didn't feel particularly hard on the second but I'm sure the lead is completely different!

John Roe 23/Apr/11 2nd

Yet again, thanks to Andy I was on a climb beyond my abilities. That said a fantastic experience, thanks Andy.

centurion05 23/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead dog
ben1987 22/Apr/11 -
Adam Coles 22/Apr/11 -
with ben1987
Hidden 21/Apr/11 2nd dog
Duncan Campbell 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Greasy at the bottom and a Jug full of water before the crux. Tricky pumpy climbing up to this. Put loads of gear in before going for it. E3 in damp conditions? Maybe if totally dry it would be hard E2? Whatever the grade, I had to fight the pump on this, as I'm not usually very good at steep, sustained routes. Absolutely three star classic!

HeatherF 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Sooo pumpy!

Mike Goldthorp 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Great fun! Really memorable crux, got a cheeky no-hands-rest on it (no, not just hangin on the gear). Bucket jug was a puddle! Probs just tough E2, just gota go for it with confidence

markalmack 07/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with james marjot
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
31770 ??/2011 2nd
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Ed Babs 25/Sep/10 Lead RP

Dogged previously 07/May/09. Seconded with Alex 06/Aug/16.

with Harry
Brown 20/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with James T
i_a_coops ?/Sep/10 Lead β
with Jacob
Mr Sparkle 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
chiverstom 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with zappa
drcorbasisgod 29/Aug/10 Lead rpt
NeilGriffiths 29/Aug/10 2nd

Still feels like E3 2nd time about.

with Dave Garry, Simon Frost
frost 28/Aug/10 2nd
with N Griffiths, D Garry
liamoloughlin 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

I think it is E2. Probably E3 if you fell off!

3 Names 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Pippa 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jon
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 15/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with steveE9
London Luke 14/Aug/10 Lead
with si Hill
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Graham Iles 13/Aug/10 2nd
with Neil Stabbs
jas128 08/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden 08/Aug/10 TR dog
catblack 08/Aug/10 2nd dog
Andrew Barker 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Great sustained climbing followed by a testing crux.It would be very eliminate to avoid using the arete at the top (I presume this is what is described as being the 6a version) as you're right on the arete the whole way even though you follow the crack.

Brian Rodgers 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Standard E2

billb ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Fran S8 31/Jul/10 Lead
metal arms 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Rose Williams 16/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Gareth
gnc760 14/Jun/10 Lead

2nd effort after a ground sweeper on the Friday. Ace.

with Rose Williams
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 29/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 04/May/10 2nd
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead dog
jacobjacob 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 2nd β
Matthew Gray ?/May/10 2nd β
tommytuffa 30/Apr/10 Lead O/S

First rout at pembroke, so intimidating, awesome

with james
barni 19/Apr/10 Lead O/S
going going gone 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S

had to do it this year as i chickening out last year. woop woop

Ed Booth 09/Apr/10 2nd

tried 4 years ago on first trip to pembroke and bailed. Felt nice today. Don't know if we went to direct from the jug hold, felt very e3 to me. Would have been spicy lead.

anguskille 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S

bit pumped, wasn't too sure about my gear either, fun tho

with Tom and Ed
mattyork2 09/Apr/10 2nd
miastacey ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Maynard
Tim W 07/Mar/10 2nd rpt
irish paul 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Tim W
Hidden 28/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
mux ??/2010 -
with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
Hidden 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Tim W 18/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 21/Sep/09 Lead
ian d f 09/Sep/09 2nd dog

the new rockfax says its an easy E3 - well i certainly climbed easier E3s! maybe i was nackered from days climbing...

with Pete H
w.pettet-smith 22/Aug/09 Lead RP

took a long(for me) fall going too direct.should have read the new discription! awesome air time. awesome, if greasy, route.

with claire jane carter
Hidden 17/Aug/09 Lead RP
Dan_Carroll 16/Aug/09 Lead dog

One rest after faffing around trying to place a cam from the good hold on the arete. E3 in the new guide, which is fair although lower end. fantastic route.

with Rebecca Holland
Beck Holland 16/Aug/09 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead β
lukea 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S

definitely e3. done many easier e3's. pumpy but great.

with Nathan M
belay bunny turned bad 05/Aug/09 Lead RP

Finally !!

with loundsy
Hidden 05/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Rob Pitt 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Owen Davies
simonp ?/Aug/09 Lead
with Annelies Sarrazyn
clairejane ?/Aug/09 2nd

scary belaying.. strenous removable of fallen on nuts...

with will
Hidden ?/Aug/09 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 25/Jul/09 2nd

down climbed the crux twice before i gave in and made marcus do it!!!

with marcus
Hidden 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Sam the Butcher 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with andy latta and tom ce
alaan 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead
Dave Bond 26/Jun/09 2nd O/S
timbanton 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
mattyork2 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Tim Jepson
Hidden 16/Jun/09 Lead rpt
belay bunny turned bad ?/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
ksjs 24/May/09 Lead rpt
david morse 02/May/09 Lead rpt
with Juan
Hidden 31/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/08 2nd
tonanf 08/Aug/08 AltLd
with Pep
gforce 06/Aug/08 Lead
with Jason
HughM ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Shane Norton
sara n 26/Jul/08 2nd

Barn doored on the crux - dammit!

with Neville Contractor
andi turner 18/Jul/08 Lead
with Gus Hudgins
feilx 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Andy L
Hidden 10/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Ramon Marin 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with Gerry Sheehy
RocknRoll 24/May/08 2nd dog

Couldn't trust myself on the right hand crimp below the nose on the arette. Got pumped silly faffing about and then fell off, twice or was it three times?

with Ramon Marin Martinez
riddle 24/May/08 Lead O/S

awesome climb.

with Yasmina
Hidden 24/May/08 2nd dog
Richard Horn 17/May/08 2nd
Hidden 07/May/08 2nd dog
ksjs 07/May/08 Lead rpt

just class and i finished it this time round. probably just about E3 but safe as houses with good climbing in a great position - feels like proper trad

spacey 01/May/08 2nd O/S
with Clive
daniel hobbs ?/May/08 Lead

clean ground up one year after down climbing and chickening out the year before.

bfreeman 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Jon Freeman
jfreeman 09/Feb/08 2nd
with Ben Freeman
LC ?/Feb/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Julian Wedd ??/2008 2nd
with A. Howarth
Docent 06/Oct/07 Lead β
with stecu
dannyboy83 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Andy Webster
Hidden 25/Jul/07 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 09/Jun/07 Lead dog

One rest, Doh!

with Crystina Common
Hidden 20/May/07 Lead O/S
Tim W 20/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd dog
Chad123 05/May/07 2nd

Still think it's just about worth E3....

with Emily
Alex Mason 03/May/07 Lead O/S

found this rather steady, excellent nontheless, with a brilliant crux section.

Hidden 10/Apr/07 Lead dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
Gus 29/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with simon "the horse" wilson
givemetea 23/Aug/06 Lead RP
with Lucy Creamer
givemetea 21/Aug/06 2nd β
with Lucy Creamer
lukea ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Al
Mark Riley 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Steve
PaulTanton 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Hidden 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Pythonist ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Ricky Rocks ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
haydng ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Chad123 ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Huw
Chubbard 16/Jul/05 Lead β
with C Godfrey
bronsonite 20/May/05 Lead O/S
with Johnny McMillen
Ben1983 ?/May/05 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Mar/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead β
cem 03/May/04 Lead dnf
with Rod Strachan
ap 14/Feb/04 Lead O/S

Warm February day

with James
Smith42 ??/2004 2nd
with Richard
JulesV ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Shauna
Hidden 26/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln ??/2002 Lead
PaulTclimbing ??/2002 -
with Johnjames, Trelewis gang, Neville, Adrian, Neil, Howell graham
Hidden ?/Dec/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/01 2nd
Hidden 26/Aug/00 Lead
Billg ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
jonka ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 -
D Tempest 11/Jun/99 2nd
with Rick
Hidden ??/1999 -
WB ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Guy
GuyM ??/1999 -
AlexRenshaw 14/Sep/98 Lead
with Ted Lister
Hidden 03/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/98 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/1998 2nd β
goi.ashmore 20/Oct/97 Lead β

In the rain. Over-rated.

with Roy Thomas
nickdonohue 24/Aug/97 Lead dnf

tried to lead through after friend had got to just below crux and lowered off. attempted a few times, had a few falls

with Caley Latham, Dave Chapman
sadams 23/Aug/97 2nd
with Team Midlands
NeilGriffiths 17/Aug/97 -
with Neil Nussey
Hidden 31/May/97 Lead
Hidden ?/May/97 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Steve Long ??/1997 Lead
AlexRenshaw 07/May/95 2nd
Andy Say 14/Apr/95 Lead
craig h 04/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Greg Cunningham ??/1995 Lead
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
adi bryant ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Ollie
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/94 Lead
with Hugh
rc ??/1994 -
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
FATBOYFAT ??/1993 -
Chris Ellis 08/Sep/92 2nd
with Rick Kerr
innes ?/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Chris
Tony Little 02/May/92 Lead O/S
with Merk and Travis
Roget 21/Apr/92 Lead O/S
with colin, baccy
whispering nic 02/Aug/91 2nd
with Graham Iles
Hidden ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
jfletcher 14/Apr/91 Lead O/S

Soloed on a subsequent visit, probably June 1991.

steve taylor ?/Aug/90 Lead
with Jim Waddington
Dave Rumney ?/May/90 -
Rich Kirby 14/Apr/90 2nd
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
Eduardo Martinez ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/89 AltLd
ukb shark 02/Apr/89 Solo
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
howifeel ??/1989 Lead O/S

I think it may have been jez. It's easier than the angle of the dangle.

with Jez
Hidden 30/Apr/88 2nd
Stoney Boy 02/Apr/88 2nd
with Kel Toplis, Steve Wigmore
Alan James - UKC and UKH 21/Aug/87 Lead
with Nigel Gregory
Hidden 26/Jul/87 Lead O/S
John Marsland 20/Apr/87 Lead
with Dave Mould
charlesmfrench 18/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 18/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Mike Poremba
Dave Musgrove 17/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 06/Apr/87 Lead
with Sandra Graham
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
andy gittins ??/1987 -
AlexRenshaw 22/Sep/86 Lead
with Simon Donowho
keefe 28/Dec/85 -
John Marsland 27/May/85 2nd
with Eduardo Martinez
Hidden 01/May/85 -
William Robertson ??/1985 Lead O/S

Reachy

with Emily
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
ukb shark 16/Sep/84 Lead
steve.aisthorpe 16/Sep/84 2nd
with shark
Mark Kemball 28/Apr/83 2nd
with Dave Kenyon
johno072 ??/1983 2nd
Mike Owen 24/Oct/82 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 09/Apr/82 Lead
with Dave Abbey
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
with Martin Corbett
Steve Lewis ??/1981 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 147
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 133
Votes cast 134
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set