John Wayne** E5 6a
[Hazel going for the crimp on John Wayne, 4 kb]

Rockfax Description
A steep and taxing pumper. From the ramp on Charisma, follow a crack up and left to a small roof (old peg - other gear available). Pull over this into another crack and continue past a thread to the top. © ROCKFAX

FA. G.Gibson 4.7.85 04/Jul/1985

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Photo: Hazel going for the crimp on John Wayne © kevin stephens
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 63 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

willsm11 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/15 with Twisty

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jul/15

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Henry

Had climbed this 12yrs previous but a gear rescue prompted the repeat. Very enjoyable! Well protected straightforward pumpy climbing. Good for the sport fit.
brunomarks - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Neil Lowry

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Jun/15

spent ages on the steep bit, pumped! great climbing despite the windy conditions
anguskille - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/15 with Adam Booth, Ed Booth

Adam Booth - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/15 with Angus Kille

NDD - Lead O/S - 25/May/15 with tony stone

Tom Livingstone - 2nd β - 07/Apr/15 with Oli Grounsell

Wussed out and grabbed the tat first go, route is so good got back on it at the end of the day and did it clean
brices - Lead RP - 06/Apr/15 with Llinos

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/15 with Adam Booth

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/15 with Ed Booth

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/Apr/15

td72 - 09/Feb/15

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 2015

Amazing top section!
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/14 with Jack Lawledge

soph - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/14 with Blair Fyffe

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/14

malx - Lead G/U - Aug/14

So much fun! After a cheeky move off the slab, the juggy crackline is just a joy to climb, felt a bit like the headwall of Arm's race at Avon, superb!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Jack G, Simon

Failed to man up and get on with it leading to excessive pump and much dogging. The peg mentioned in the Rockfax description consists of one rusty angle and a weird tied off aluminium bar concoction. Yummy!
Justin T - Lead dog - 15/May/14 with Tom N

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Apr/14

Ground up, second go. Took a big fall from just below the pegs onto gear at the bottom of the ramp. Lowered, pulled the ropes and did it second go. I could barely clip the thread near the top, so pumped. Well chuffed
tim newton - Lead G/U - 24/Aug/13 with jon stewart

Glad to get this after falling off it last year.
colesy - Lead rpt - 31/Mar/13 with Sasha Coombes

not amazing, but a good route, went up and left a bit early on some slopey undercuts which felt a bit bold.
willoates - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13 with soph

soph - 2nd rpt - 31/Mar/13 with will oates

dswansonlow - 2nd dog - 30/Mar/13 with Emma Twyford

redjerry - Lead - 22/Aug/12 with Ben Williams

Totally frigged
theotherpetehill - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/12 with Ross McKerchar

Quite hard to convey how pumped I got on this. Clawed my way up, placing terrible gear (luckily the insitu stuff was generally sufficient). I could barely even open crabs to clip by the end.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12

fell off the day before.
dan gibson - Lead RP - 07/May/12 with richard lade

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 05/May/12

barni - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with fra

Hard work! Was trashed after the crux and had to 'rest' on the holds by the pegs for ages to get anything back, just managed it. Could have been really tired I guess...
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Mike

Glyn - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/11 with Luke, Barni

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Glyn Hudson, Barni

A stellar sprint. Abbed in down the line unintentionally (thought i would be further right) but in retrospect it made it all the more satisfying as i had a vague idea of what was coming and new the insitu stuff was in good nick. Awesome fun and probably one of my best performances to date. Good second chris.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 23/Jun/11 with Tommy Cole, Chris Carroll

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Andy Reeve

drank a a load of coke just before starting, got really psyched up and crushed it with out even getting pumped, then seconded it, hard second time roud
mwatson - Lead O/S - 2011 with thomasadixon

I was depressingly close to onsighting this. I spent too long putting gear in between the peg and the thread but went for it and ended up staring at the thread without being able to move or to clip it. It was a fun fall as I wasn't sure if my gear would hold. Thankfully it did as otherwise it would have been an enormous lob. Lowered down, pulled the ropes and did it next go.
Andrew Barker - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Si

Fran S8 - 2nd - 31/Jul/10

Toby Dunn - Lead - 27/Aug/09

feilx - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/09 with Heather

Gus - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08 with andi elizabeth turner

Hidden - 2nd - 2008

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2008

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/06 with KM

Hidden - Jul/06

Kev Little - Lead O/S - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jun/02

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/01 with Viv

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Jul/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/01

Hidden - TR dog - 2000

Tim M - 2nd - 2000 with Pete V

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/99

Southern Mark Smith - Lead O/S - 1999 with Rob Kennard

innes - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with Jon Bracey

Gregory - Lead O/S - Jul/98 with guy exley

sadams - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/97 with Team Midlands

keefe - 1996

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/94

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Justin T, brices, Ramon Marin, s.c.white, drcorbasisgod

Total votes cast 60
hard E60 of 21
E60 of 21
easy E60 of 21
hard E54 of 21
E511 of 21
easy E55 of 21
hard E41 of 21
E40 of 21
easy E40 of 21
hard 6b0 of 21
6b0 of 21
easy 6b0 of 21
hard 6a1 of 21
6a18 of 21
easy 6a2 of 21
hard 5c0 of 21
5c0 of 21
easy 5c0 of 21
3 Stars15 of 18
2 Stars3 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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