John Wayne** E5 6a
[Hazel going for the crimp on John Wayne, 4 kb]A steep and taxing pumper. From the ramp on Charisma, follow a crack up and left to a small roof (old peg - other gear available). Pull over this into another crack and continue past a thread to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. G.Gibson 4.7.85 04/Jul/1985

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers.

Photo: Hazel going for the crimp on John Wayne © kevin stephens
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 44 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Amazing top section!
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/14 with Jack Lawledge

soph - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/14 with Blair Fyffe

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/14

So much fun! After a cheeky move off the slab, the juggy crackline is just a joy to climb, felt a bit like the headwall of Arm's race at Avon, superb!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Jack G, Simon

Failed to man up and get on with it leading to excessive pump and much dogging. The peg mentioned in the Rockfax description consists of one rusty angle and a weird tied off aluminium bar concoction. Yummy!
Justin T - Lead dog - 15/May/14 with Tom N

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Apr/14

Ground up, second go. Took a big fall from just below the pegs onto gear at the bottom of the ramp. Lowered, pulled the ropes and did it second go. A big relief to clip the pegs, was very pumped at the pegs, didn't think there was much chance I would get up it, but somehow pulled it out the bag...could barely clip the thread near the top. Well chuffed
tim newton - Lead RP - 24/Aug/13 with jon stewart

Glad to get this after falling off it last year.
colesy - Lead rpt - 31/Mar/13 with Sasha Coombes

not amazing, but a good route, went up and left a bit early on some slopey undercuts which felt a bit bold.
willoates - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13 with soph

Hidden - 2nd β - 31/Mar/13

soph - 2nd rpt - 31/Mar/13 with will oates

dswansonlow - 2nd dog - 30/Mar/13 with Emma Twyford

lovely finger wall, would be an ok lead.
redjerry - Lead - 22/Aug/12

Totally frigged
theotherpetehill - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/12 with Ross McKerchar

Quite hard to convey how pumped I got on this. Clawed my way up, placing terrible gear (luckily the insitu stuff was generally sufficient). I could barely even open crabs to clip by the end.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12

fell off the day before.
dan gibson - Lead RP - 07/May/12 with richard lade

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 05/May/12

barni - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with fra

Hard work! Was trashed after the crux and had to 'rest' on the holds by the pegs for ages to get anything back, just managed it. Could have been really tired I guess...
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Mike

Glyn - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/11 with Luke, Barni

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Glyn Hudson, Barni

A stellar sprint. Abbed in down the line unintentionally (thought i would be further right) but in retrospect it made it all the more satisfying as i had a vague idea of what was coming and new the insitu stuff was in good nick. Awesome fun and probably one of my best performances to date. Good second chris.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 23/Jun/11 with Tommy Cole, Chris Carroll

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Andy Reeve

drank a a load of coke just before starting, got really psyched up and crushed it with out even getting pumped, then seconded it, hard second time roud
mwatson - Lead O/S - 2011 with thomasadixon

I was depressingly close to onsighting this. I spent too long putting gear in between the peg and the thread but went for it and ended up staring at the thread without being able to move or to clip it. It was a fun fall as I wasn't sure if my gear would hold. Thankfully it did as otherwise it would have been an enormous lob. Lowered down, pulled the ropes and did it next go.
Andrew Barker - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Si

Fran S8 - 2nd - 31/Jul/10

Toby Dunn - Lead - 27/Aug/09

feilx - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/09 with Heather

Gus - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08 with andi elizabeth turner

Hidden - 2nd - 2008

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - Jul/06

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jun/02

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/01 with Viv

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Jul/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/01

Hidden - TR dog - 2000

Tim M - 2nd - 2000 with Pete V

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/99

Richard White - Lead O/S - 1999 with Rob Kennard

innes - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with Jon Bracey

sadams - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/97 with Team Midlands

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/94

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Justin T, brices, Ramon Marin, s.c.white, drcorbasisgod

Voting
Total votes cast 48
hard E60 of 17
E60 of 17
easy E60 of 17
hard E54 of 17
E58 of 17
easy E54 of 17
hard E41 of 17
E40 of 17
easy E40 of 17
hard 6b0 of 17
6b0 of 17
easy 6b0 of 17
hard 6a1 of 17
6a15 of 17
easy 6a1 of 17
hard 5c0 of 17
5c0 of 17
easy 5c0 of 17
3 Stars11 of 14
2 Stars3 of 14
1 Star0 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

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Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
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dogged
dnf