Pembrokeshire > St. Govan's Head >
John Wayne** E5 6a

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[Hazel on John Wayne, 4 kb]A steep and taxing pumper. From the ramp on Charisma, follow a crack up and left to a small roof (old peg - other gear available). Pull over this into another crack and continue past a thread to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. G.Gibson 4.7.85 04/Jul/1985

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers.

Photo: Hazel on John Wayne © kevin stephens
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 39 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Apr/14

Ground up, second go. Took a big fall from just below the pegs onto gear at the bottom of the ramp. Lowered, pulled the ropes and did it second go. A big relief to clip the pegs, was very pumped at the pegs, didn't think there was much chance I would get up it, but somehow pulled it out the bag...could barely clip the thread near the top. Well chuffed
tim newton - Lead RP - 24/Aug/13 with jon stewart

Glad to get this after falling off it last year.
colesy - Lead rpt - 31/Mar/13 with Sasha Coombes

not amazing, but a good route, went up and left a bit early on some slopey undercuts which felt a bit bold.
willoates - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13 with soph

Hidden - 2nd β - 31/Mar/13

soph - 2nd rpt - 31/Mar/13 with will oates

dswansonlow - 2nd dog - 30/Mar/13 with Emma Twyford

lovely finger wall, would be an ok lead.
redjerry - Lead - 22/Aug/12

Totally frigged
theotherpetehill - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/12 with Ross McKerchar

Quite hard to convey how pumped I got on this. Clawed my way up, placing terrible gear (luckily the insitu stuff was generally sufficient). I could barely even open crabs to clip by the end.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12

fell off the day before.
dan gibson - Lead RP - 07/May/12 with richard lade

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 05/May/12

barni - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with fra

Hard work! Was trashed after the crux and had to 'rest' on the holds by the pegs for ages to get anything back, just managed it. Could have been really tired I guess...
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Mike

Glyn - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/11 with Luke, Barni

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Glyn Hudson, Barni

A stellar sprint. Abbed in down the line unintentionally (thought i would be further right) but in retrospect it made it all the more satisfying as i had a vague idea of what was coming and new the insitu stuff was in good nick. Awesome fun and probably one of my best performances to date. Good second chris.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 23/Jun/11 with Tommy Cole, Chris Carroll

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Andy Reeve

drank a a load of coke just before starting, got really psyched up and crushed it with out even getting pumped, then seconded it, hard second time roud
mwatson - Lead O/S - 2011 with thomasadixon

I was depressingly close to onsighting this. I spent too long putting gear in between the peg and the thread but went for it and ended up staring at the thread without being able to move or to clip it. It was a fun fall as I wasn't sure if my gear would hold. Thankfully it did as otherwise it would have been an enormous lob. Lowered down, pulled the ropes and did it next go.
Andrew Barker - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Si

Fran S8 - 2nd - 31/Jul/10

Toby Dunn - Lead - 27/Aug/09

feilx - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/09 with Heather

Gus - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08 with andi elizabeth turner

Hidden - 2nd - 2008

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - Jul/06

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jun/02

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/01 with Viv

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Jul/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/01

Hidden - TR dog - 2000

Tim M - 2nd - 2000 with Pete V

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/99

Richard White - Lead O/S - 1999 with Rob Kennard

innes - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with Jon Bracey

sadams - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/97 with Team Midlands

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/94

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Justin T, brices, Ramon Marin, s.c.white, Hidden, drcorbasisgod

Total votes cast 43
hard E60 of 15
E60 of 15
easy E60 of 15
hard E53 of 15
E58 of 15
easy E53 of 15
hard E41 of 15
E40 of 15
easy E40 of 15
hard 6b0 of 15
6b0 of 15
easy 6b0 of 15
hard 6a1 of 15
6a13 of 15
easy 6a1 of 15
hard 5c0 of 15
5c0 of 15
easy 5c0 of 15
3 Stars10 of 13
2 Stars3 of 13
1 Star0 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent

Lead27 of 39 (69.2%)
Followed9 of 39 (23.1%)
Toproped1 of 39 (2.6%)
Alt Leads1 of 39 (2.6%)
Unknown1 of 39 (2.6%)

'Climbed'8 of 39 (20.5%)
clean O/S19 of 39 (48.7%)
clean β2 of 39 (5.1%)
clean rpt2 of 39 (5.1%)
clean RP3 of 39 (7.7%)
dogged4 of 39 (10.3%)
dnf1 of 39 (2.6%)