Pembrokeshire > St. Govan's Head >
 
Cupids Bow** HVS 5a

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[Cupid's Bow, just next to The Arrow., 3 kb]This thuggy route follows the huge flake crack in the centre of the buttress. It requires some large clanking gear to protect it. Start below the flake-crack, gain and climb it to the roof at the top and pass this on its left. © ROCKFAX
FA. P.Whillance 31.12.76 31/Dec/1976

Photo: Cupid's Bow, just next to The Arrow. © squicky
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 152 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/14

wolverine - Lead - 18/Apr/14 with Caroline Ashman

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13

Very satisfying moves. Pembroke's answer to the Right Unconquerable. With the Arrow start.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Conor Cussell

Jim Slater - 2nd rpt - 30/Aug/13 with James

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/13

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Sam Taylor

Hidden - 2nd β - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13

Andrew1 - Lead - 08/Jun/13 with Hulda

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

big layback moves, unusual for pembroke, wild fun
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 18/May/13 with Pete (tree surgent), Sam (tree surgent)

tlmarjot - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13 with Tom Baker

tomB - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Tim Marjot

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/13

jcw - 2013

VPJB - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12

andy dunn - 2nd - 19/May/12 with J

Kyuzo - 06/May/12

hrgcb - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12 with Virgil Scott

Brilliant lay-backing, but so scary with a rack of small gear!
s.c.white - 05/May/12 with Alessio Tait

pembrokeshirecaver - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Edmund Morris

Hard HVS 5a/5b if you take a few large hexes and cams. Well worth E1 if you don't have the big gear, luckily I did.
mountain.martin - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12

pie_eater_pete - 2nd - 02/Apr/12

bwestwood - Lead - Apr/12

JRae - 2nd - 10/Mar/12 with Paul M

Did a variation finish moving right at the roof near the top and then going direct over the next bulge. Probably makes it E1. Looked like nicer climbing and I was following the description for the Arrow!
pmurdy - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Jonny Reay

turdburglar - 2012

Did the direct E2 5c Start - first move of the day with a hang over...
wolverine - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Bryony Wethers

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/Aug/11

andy dunn - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Tom

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Jun/11

One rest at previous fall sight. Whilst recovering and belaying a huge rock whistled down and landed 20cm from me. I think this route wanted me dead.
squicky - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with spidey

Took a 15m fall halfway up and hurt foot so had to retreat. Hardest HVS 5a I did in the area.
squicky - Lead dnf - 27/Apr/11 with spidey

spidey - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11

Me and partner both thought that the first move leaving the ledge was the crux! The rest of it is nice climbing which keeps coming at you
Byronius Maximus - 2nd β - 26/Apr/11 with Alex Twist

Mark Kemball - Lead - 23/Apr/11 with Jules McKim

julesmckim - 2nd - 23/Apr/11

ben1987 - 22/Apr/11 with Adam Coles

Adam Coles - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with ben park

Paul Boggis - Lead - 2011

PAJames - 2011

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2011

matt.woodfield - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Oliver Sherman - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Deniz Sumengen

liamoloughlin - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

Fran S8 - Lead - 28/Aug/10

Hardest route of day. Bottom section bouldery, cant hang arund to place gear so rather committing. Once in flake crack proper, it's steep and sustained, but really good. I got stuck right at the top in the wide crack for 10 minutes trying to figure the move out, thought I'd had it but then it just went. Wondered if there'd been a rock fall as there was what looked like a new chockstone in the crack, and plenty of loose rock. Ended up abbing down it to strip the gear, which added to the adventure and showed how steep the route is.
manwithacam - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Dovydas

Started beneath the flake - as per guidebook - definitely not 5a (more like a 5c move) - possibly lost a few holds? Wouldn't argue with it being graded as a soft touch E1 5c. Awesome laybacking moves up the flake though!
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Alan

Hard climbing for the grade..top end HVS. Did the Arrow start and then realised later there is a direct (harder!!) start.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Will

ian d f - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10 with Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 24/Jun/10 with Ian

Felt hard compared to other HVS in the area. Depends whether you like laybacks I suppose. There's a nice rest between the two sections tho so probably hvs. Make sure you take a couple of big hexes. Direct start was obviously not 5a so started in the same place as the arrow.
Alan100 - Lead - 05/Jun/10

Started below the crack as per decription. 5b or 5c I reckon. And bloody greasy.
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Ellen Cobby

Ellen Cobby - 2nd - 22/May/10 with Adam Booth

direct start is a hard 5b.
Ed morris - Lead - 05/May/10 with james

metal arms - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 2010 with sarp

Great route!I would say high in the grade,very enjoyable tho
RobRock84 - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/09 with Steve Quinton

Liam FLeming - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09 with paul james

cem - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Julian, Graham Dolman

The direct start is surely harder than 5a! It was today anyway as all the holds had a greasy feel. Started via the Arrow instead.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/09

Dave Bond - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/09 with Tim Banton

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/09

DafSWMC - 2nd rpt - 21/Jun/09 with Chris Wyatt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/09

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 02/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09

Bern - 2nd rpt - 28/Mar/09 with Andy Mos

Great route
gingernick - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Dean,Daryl

The first move is much harder than 5a, especially for the short. Fell of it twice. The exit left at the top has lots of loose blocks. Take care or exit right.
gjd - 2nd dog - 29/Sep/08 with Ronnie

Richard Hession - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/08 with Stu

the juicy dangler - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/08 with james marjot

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/08

tonanf - AltLd - 08/Aug/08 with Pep

Richard Horn - 2nd - 17/May/08

Bern - Lead O/S - 02/May/08 with Andy Mos

Didn't read "bring large protection", thus sketchy....
irish paul - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Steinar

jl - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/07 with Penny

pennyb - 2nd - 22/Oct/07 with Jon

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/07 with Rebecca Holland

Beckholland - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/07 with Dan_Carroll

Circus - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/07 with Chris Pollard

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/07

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Ben Gilbert

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Ben Gilbert

Started as for the arrow
Tim W - Lead O/S - 19/May/07 with Dylan Tomlinson

willjones - Lead O/S - 2007

willjones - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - 2007

great route
david morse - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with rampant

jfreeman - Lead O/S - Aug/06

Good crack climb
clipskipper - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/06 with Davey Boy

Hidden - Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/06

Paz - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/06 with HH

ewen - May/06 with the kettle

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/06

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Fiend

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/06

dan gibson - 2006

John Kettle - 2006

Boxy - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Mick

tom.e - 2nd O/S - 2005

daveayton - Lead O/S - 2005

GuyM - 2005 with jim

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - Aug/04 with Cheryl Ward

al99 - 2nd O/S - Sep/03 with Sam Ponsford

Really awkward start! 1pt rest.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead dog - Aug/03 with Thea Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/03

Different Steve - Lead O/S - May/02 with Rupert Holbrook

MKH - Lead O/S - 2001

chris wyatt - Lead - 2001 with chris praxmarer

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/00

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/00

DafSWMC - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/00 with UMIST

alex_th - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/99 with Dave Lacey

Roget - Lead O/S - 25/May/99 with jon

nickdonohue - Lead - 01/May/99 with James Edwards

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1999

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/98 with Nicky

The initial moves were avoided by traversing in from the start of Flanker, where I spent some time removing an in-situ nut, believing Mathias had placed it on lead.
jim_randell - 2nd O/S - 02/May/98 with MW

Hidden - Lead - 07/Apr/97

Hidden - 1994

whispering nic - Lead O/S - 1994 with Kat

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/93

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 08/Sep/92 with Rick Kerr

mikej - 2nd - 14/Jun/92 with Mike Byles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/92

Andy Say - Lead - 15/Apr/92

jasper11 - 1990

Hidden - 1990

babymoac - Lead - 02/Jul/89 with Alan S

Hidden - Lead - 1989

Hidden - 2nd - 1989

ChrisJD - 2nd - Nov/88

steve taylor - Lead - Aug/87 with stumpy

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - Jun/87 with Andy Hyslop

keefe - 06/May/86 with Johnny Adams

Seconded Alan years ago - 1986 is a guess
Jelly Mould Surfer - 1986

Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd O/S - 1986 with al

shark - Lead - 11/Apr/85 with Triss Kenny

Nigel Coe - Lead - 27/Aug/83 with Steve Portnoi

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 14/Apr/82 with Dave Fernley

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Submit to Gravity, Albie, Hidden, Mike H, Hidden, Flibble

Voting
Total votes cast 92
hard E10 of 32
E10 of 32
easy E18 of 32
hard HVS16 of 32
HVS7 of 32
easy HVS1 of 32
hard VS0 of 32
VS0 of 32
easy VS0 of 32
hard 5b0 of 30
5b0 of 30
easy 5b16 of 30
hard 5a4 of 30
5a10 of 30
easy 5a0 of 30
hard 4c0 of 30
4c0 of 30
easy 4c0 of 30
3 Stars8 of 30
2 Stars20 of 30
1 Star2 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
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Style of ascent

Lead87 of 152 (57.2%)
Followed44 of 152 (28.9%)
Alt Leads2 of 152 (1.3%)
Unknown19 of 152 (12.5%)

'Climbed'63 of 152 (41.4%)
clean O/S78 of 152 (51.3%)
clean β2 of 152 (1.3%)
clean rpt4 of 152 (2.6%)
dogged4 of 152 (2.6%)
dnf1 of 152 (0.7%)