Rockfax Description
This thuggy route follows the huge flake crack in the centre of the buttress. It requires some large clanking gear to protect it. Start below the flake-crack, gain and climb it to the roof at the top and pass this on its left. © Rockfax

FA. P.Whillance 31/Dec/1976

Ticklists: Pembroke VDiff-HVS.

Hidden 14/May 2nd
Tim Sparrow 16/Apr Lead


with Ned
nniff 16/Apr 2nd
Palindrome 01/Sep/15 2nd

Ridiculously hard 5c start! Lovely route thereafter.

steve.warrington 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/15 2nd
admackie 12/May/15 Lead O/S

great fight

with andy
Andy Peak 1 12/May/15 2nd
Richard Kendrick ?/May/15 2nd O/S
with Tim Johnston
LJKing 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Great climb much friendlier than it looks.

with Paul Clarkson
Hidden 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
red_rhodesha 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Jonny Aylwin
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Matt77 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

The direct start is definitely harder than 5a, especially so if things are a bit greasy. I found this route more difficult than The Arrow. Good climbing in the middle section but be careful at the top as there is a lot of loose rock about.

Jamie Everitt 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
RyanOsborne 13/Sep/14 2nd dog

Sandbag at HVS! The start move off the ledge is an absolute pig (had to stand in a sling), especially with any hint of slime. The moves through the flowstone are also really thuggy, and hard when slippery.

FlavioL1989 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Awesome bouldery start from a ledge on a small dodgy nut. Guidebook said to take big gear, I didn't, huge run-outs followed.

charles-green 07/Sep/14 Lead

Slipped off few moves up direct start, landed nicely on the ledge unfortunately lost balance and went head first and sideways off. If that first nut had popped... came three meters from deck. sent next go, great route!!! fantastic climbing and gear. First moves are 5c for sure, even harder if greasy.

RobScarisbrick 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
JulianB 07/Sep/14 Lead dnf
with Pete Randall
VPJB 26/Jul/14 Lead
guy757 13/Jul/14 -
tobydunford 25/May/14 2nd β
with Harry Martin
DanielGyi 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Olli-C 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd dog
M_Robinson 03/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 18/Apr/14 Lead
Bry 18/Apr/14 2nd β
Thunderthighsontheloose 18/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/14 -
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Kirill 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Very satisfying moves. Pembroke's answer to the Right Unconquerable. With the Arrow start.

Jim Slater 30/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Aug/13 Lead
Matt Cooke 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd β
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Andrew1 08/Jun/13 Lead
with Hulda
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead O/S
msoldn 18/May/13 2nd O/S

big layback moves, unusual for pembroke, wild fun

with Pete (tree surgent), Sam (tree surgent)
tlmarjot 05/May/13 2nd O/S
with Tom Baker
tomB 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead
jcw ??/2013 -
VPJB ??/2013 -
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
andy dunn 19/May/12 2nd
with J
Kyuzo 06/May/12 -
hrgcb 06/May/12 2nd O/S
with Virgil Scott
s.c.white 05/May/12 -

Brilliant lay-backing, but so scary with a rack of small gear!

with Alessio Tait
pembrokeshirecaver 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
mountain.martin 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Hard HVS 5a/5b if you take a few large hexes and cams. Well worth E1 if you don't have the big gear, luckily I did.

pie_eater_pete 02/Apr/12 2nd
bwestwood ?/Apr/12 Lead
JRae 10/Mar/12 2nd
with Paul M
pmurdy 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Did a variation finish moving right at the roof near the top and then going direct over the next bulge. Probably makes it E1. Looked like nicer climbing and I was following the description for the Arrow!

with Jonny Reay
turdburglar ??/2012 -
Mike_Hayes 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Did the direct E2 5c Start - first move of the day with a hang over...

Bry 27/Aug/11 2nd dog
with Mike
DubyaJamesDubya 26/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
andy dunn 02/Jul/11 2nd
with Tom
drysori 30/Jun/11 Lead
with hamdunn
Hidden 18/Jun/11 2nd dog
squicky 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S

One rest at previous fall sight. Whilst recovering and belaying a huge rock whistled down and landed 20cm from me. I think this route wanted me dead.

with spidey
squicky 27/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Took a 15m fall halfway up and hurt foot so had to retreat. Hardest HVS 5a I did in the area.

with spidey
spidey 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Byronius Maximus 26/Apr/11 2nd β

Me and partner both thought that the first move leaving the ledge was the crux! The rest of it is nice climbing which keeps coming at you

Mark Kemball 23/Apr/11 Lead
with Jules McKim
julesmckim 23/Apr/11 2nd
ben1987 22/Apr/11 -
Adam Coles ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Paul Boggis ??/2011 Lead
PAJames ??/2011 -
nickcanute ??/2011 Lead O/S
matt.woodfield 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Deniz Sumengen
liamoloughlin 28/Aug/10 2nd
Fran S8 28/Aug/10 Lead
manwithacam 08/Aug/10 Lead

Hardest route of day. Bottom section bouldery, cant hang arund to place gear so rather committing. Once in flake crack proper, it's steep and sustained, but really good. I got stuck right at the top in the wide crack for 10 minutes trying to figure the move out, thought I'd had it but then it just went. Wondered if there'd been a rock fall as there was what looked like a new chockstone in the crack, and plenty of loose rock. Ended up abbing down it to strip the gear, which added to the adventure and showed how steep the route is.

with Dovydas
andy dunn 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Started beneath the flake - as per guidebook - definitely not 5a (more like a 5c move) - possibly lost a few holds? Wouldn't argue with it being graded as a soft touch E1 5c. Awesome laybacking moves up the flake though!

with Alan
Jim Slater 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Hard climbing for the grade..top end HVS. Did the Arrow start and then realised later there is a direct (harder!!) start.

ian d f 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 24/Jun/10 2nd
with Ian
Alan100 05/Jun/10 Lead

Felt hard compared to other HVS in the area. Depends whether you like laybacks I suppose. There's a nice rest between the two sections tho so probably hvs. Make sure you take a couple of big hexes. Direct start was obviously not 5a so started in the same place as the arrow.

Adam Booth 22/May/10 Lead O/S

Started below the crack as per decription. 5b or 5c I reckon. And bloody greasy.

Ellen Cobby 22/May/10 2nd
Ed morris 05/May/10 Lead

direct start is a hard 5b.

with james
metal arms 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
dswansonlow ??/2010 Lead O/S
with sarp
RobRock84 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Great route!I would say high in the grade,very enjoyable tho

with Steve Quinton
Liam FLeming 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with paul james
cem 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Julian, Graham Dolman
bpmclimb 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S

The direct start is surely harder than 5a! It was today anyway as all the holds had a greasy feel. Started via the Arrow instead.

with Clare
Hidden 09/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 26/Jun/09 2nd O/S
timbanton 26/Jun/09 Lead
DafSWMC 21/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead O/S
Ben1983 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Bern 28/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Andy Mos
gingernick 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Great route

with Dean,Daryl
gjd 29/Sep/08 2nd dog

The first move is much harder than 5a, especially for the short. Fell of it twice. The exit left at the top has lots of loose blocks. Take care or exit right.

with Ronnie
Richard Hession 23/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Stu
Hidden 22/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/08 2nd O/S
tonanf 08/Aug/08 AltLd
with Pep
Richard Horn 17/May/08 2nd
Bern 02/May/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Mos
irish paul 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Didn't read "bring large protection", thus sketchy....

with Steinar
jl 22/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Penny
pennyb 22/Oct/07 2nd
with Jon
Dan_Carroll 19/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
Beck Holland 19/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Circus 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Pollard
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Ramon Marin 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Gilbert
Ramon Marin 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Gilbert
Tim W 19/May/07 Lead O/S

Started as for the arrow

with Dylan Tomlinson
willjones ??/2007 Lead O/S
willjones ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
david morse ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S

great route

with rampant
jfreeman ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
clipskipper 17/Jul/06 2nd O/S

Good crack climb

with Davey Boy
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
Hidden 23/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Paz 23/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with HH
ewen ?/May/06 -
John Kettle ?/May/06 2nd
with ewen
Hidden 29/Apr/06 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S

A brilliant line with devious climbing - fun and thuggy!

with Gareth Buckley
Urgles ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Fiend
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden 18/Feb/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
John Kettle ??/2006 -
Boxy ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Mick
tom.e ??/2005 2nd O/S
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
GuyM ??/2005 -
with jim
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead rpt
al99 ?/Sep/03 2nd O/S
with Sam Ponsford
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Jun/03 2nd
Sime64 25/May/03 2nd O/S

Very hard for grade

with Nick K
Hidden 13/Feb/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/03 Lead O/S
Different Steve ?/May/02 Lead O/S
with Rupert Holbrook
MKH ??/2001 Lead O/S
chris wyatt ??/2001 Lead
with chris praxmarer
Hidden 24/Jun/00 2nd
Hidden 24/Jun/00 2nd
DafSWMC 30/Apr/00 2nd O/S
with UMIST
alex_th 19/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Dave Lacey
Roget 25/May/99 Lead O/S
with jon
nickdonohue 01/May/99 Lead
with James Edwards
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 25/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
jim_randell 02/May/98 2nd O/S

The initial moves were avoided by traversing in from the start of Flanker, where I spent some time removing an in-situ nut, believing Mathias had placed it on lead.

with MW
Hidden 07/Apr/97 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 -
whispering nic ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Kat
Hidden 20/Aug/93 Lead
Chris Ellis 08/Sep/92 2nd
with Rick Kerr
mikej 14/Jun/92 2nd
with Mike Byles
Hidden 01/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Andy Say 15/Apr/92 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
babymoac 02/Jul/89 Lead
with Alan S
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 2nd
Hidden ?/Nov/88 2nd
steve taylor ?/Aug/87 Lead
with stumpy
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/87 AltLd
keefe 06/May/86 -
with Johnny Adams
wynaptomos ?/Mar/86 Lead O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer ??/1986 -

Seconded Alan years ago - 1986 is a guess

Jelly Mould Surfer ??/1986 2nd O/S
with al
shark 11/Apr/85 Lead
with Triss Kenny
Martin Bennett 04/Nov/83 -
with RA
Nigel Coe 27/Aug/83 Lead
with Steve Portnoi
Mark Kemball 14/Apr/82 2nd
with Dave Fernley
steve L ??/1982 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SenzuBean, marclloyd77, Stepanek, Hidden, CarlWH, Hidden, Yanis Nayu, Albie, Hidden, Mike H, Hidden, Flibble
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 42
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set