Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A popular route which makes the most of the broad rib at the left end of the crag. Start on the left-hand side of the buttress.
1) 4a, 15m. Climb up a slim groove and make a hard pull up onto a break. Head rightwards across this to a memorable final traverse right onto a ledge on the nose.
2) 4b, 20m. Move up the right-hand side of the rib and step left into a small crack. Head up towards a tower. Balancy moves over this lead to easier moves towards a crack. Finish up the short crack. The belay is well back on the large tree.
3) 30m. Move right along the ledge and climb an easy slab to the left of a vegetated bay. At the top of the slab, step right into the bay and move diagonally across it to the top right corner. Climb the crack above to a tree and then follow a final crack and slabs to the top. © Rockfax
The Tremadog 'V's' , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , Ultimate HS ticklist , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Solos , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 50 more great HS routes , North Wales Summer 21' , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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dynoseb | 20 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Linked pitch 1 & 2 together into one mega 40m or so pitch to the garden ledge. Highly recommend this, just manage your ropes properly and it\'ll be fine. Great climbing on clean unvegetated rock, just follow the rib directly once on it flitting back and forth a little in places to maintain upwards progress. Don\'t go too far right otherwise you\'ll end up on the E2 Valor. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Linked pitch 1 & 2 together into one mega 40m or so pitch to the garden ledge. Highly recommend this, just manage your ropes properly and it'll be fine. Great climbing on clean unvegetated rock, just follow the rib directly once on it flitting back and forth a little in places to maintain upwards progress. Don't go too far right otherwise you'll end up on the E2 Valor. |
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simoncov | 4 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: It appears that the (optional) P1 belay tree mentioned in older guides on the foot-ledge above the nose is long gone. Either that or I was on completely the wrong buttress. Topo line in old RockFax Pokketz also seems too far right, newer guide says start higher-up left and traverse right, which seems more sensible. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It appears that the (optional) P1 belay tree mentioned in older guides on the foot-ledge above the nose is long gone. Either that or I was on completely the wrong buttress. Topo line in old RockFax Pokketz also seems too far right, newer guide says start higher-up left and traverse right, which seems more sensible. |
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Evak | 27 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route. I found the 1st pitch harder than 2nd. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great route. I found the 1st pitch harder than 2nd. |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las))