UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes. 

Seasonal Restriction  from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.

RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023

 

 

30m.

Rockfax Description
A stunning climb which follows the crackline above and right of the Sunlover start. Climb the steep crack then move right to climb up to the fingery cracks which swallow wires. Hard moves lead to the break where a grovelling mantel gains the ledge on the right. Climb the easier, but still testing, wall on the left to a junction with Sunlover at the ledge. Finish as for this. Feels around F7a+. © Rockfax

FA. R.Fawcett, G.Fawcett Jul/1982.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Trad climbs for sport climbers , 101Pembroke Extremes , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

User Date Notes
craig h 2 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Found this hard for the grade, and sustained. Know a few people who have taken large falls off this getting very close to the ground. There is a lot of sharp holds in the cracks which can be painfull, this aside the route is fantastic but the mantel makes you think especially when knackered.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this hard for the grade, and sustained. Know a few people who have taken large falls off this getting very close to the ground. There is a lot of sharp holds in the cracks which can be painfull, this aside the route is fantastic but the mantel makes you think especially when knackered.

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 17
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gorak

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Skrinkle Haven)

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