45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A majestic climb which provides an excellent introduction to Pembroke E4s. It was traditionally climbed in two pitches with a belay at the break on the left. Now most people link them into one long pitch due to the difficulty of belaying the initial move of the old pitch 2. Step off the monster pebble and climb a short groove and crack to the break. Move right and pull up into a leftwards rising line of holds. Follow this to its end then make a tricky pull up above and continue to the small cave (possible belay). Arrange some gear above then swing right and climb the shiny grey slab - hard at first but it gets easier. Continue up the steep wall above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J de Montjoye, I.Parsons 20/Jun/1981

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke.


ClimberDateStyle
robertmctague 27/Aug AltLd O/S
with Theo
theomoore 27/Aug AltLd O/S

Impressive piece of rock, had wanted to do it for ages. The crux of p1 was quite hard, think I threw for a hold off a two finger crimp. Ended up splitting the route at the big break as the sea was caressing mctague's feet. Would've been nice to do it in one. Again, pleased with my headgame - got on it and just kept going despite it being the first lead of the day. Climbing seems hard until you do it!

with Mike Cheque, robertmctague
M_Robinson 16/Aug 2nd O/S
Kris2fa 16/Aug 2nd dog
Adam24B 16/Aug Lead O/S

Epic, always wanted to do this since seeing it on the back cover of the rockfax guide, it's obvious from chalk that the crux has two options, just stick to the described line, nicer and easier

pete johnson 11/Aug AltLd rpt
Hidden 11/Aug AltLd O/S
eel ?/Aug Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris 18/Jun Lead O/S
with hfisher
D.Russell 08/Apr Lead O/S
with Ramon
Ramon Marin 08/Apr 2nd rpt
with Douglas Russell
climbingpixie 25/Mar 2nd dog

Got pumped and fell off trying to work out the lower crux. Then got pumped and fell off trying to work out the upper crux. Hard!

with Andy
Hidden 25/Mar Lead O/S
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden 20/Sep/15 2nd dog
Andrew Wilson 01/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Pebble gone... start now more involved up glassy steep stuff; crux tricky and not that obvious. Loved the yarding up but from ledge. Deserves E4 as you have to run it out a little too.

James Marshall 22/Jul/15 Lead O/S

My 2nd favourite of the trip cos it's like a techy sports climb !

with sash
Hidden 12/Jul/15 2nd dog
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead RP
billb ?/May/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant! Tricky crux after thread

Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
WB 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Over rated. first pitch is simple climbing with one hard move. Second pitch is unprotected reachy moves. Not my idea of a great route. Did better 2 star routes over the weekend

with Anna
Hidden 06/Apr/15 AltLd
James Oswald 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Easier once you find a crucial hold on the crux

with Nick Duboust
NDD 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Oswald
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
irish paul ??/2015 Lead
Pippa 24/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with mike
Rachel Slater 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Crux on the lower slab felt pretty thin and techy! Although apparently I missed a hold..

tim newton 21/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Rained right after Rachel got to the top and then intermittently as I seconded it. Bit damp, especially the top crux on the smoother rock, but the lower crux on the rough rock was ok once I found the beta.

Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/14 Lead dnf
mike mo ??/2014 -
James Oswald 06/Sep/13 2nd dog

Fell off this after being too pumped arriving at the undercut rest below the crux, didn't have time to figure out a proper sequence. Must get fitter/ better at resting. Great moves, cool initial move up the initial cracky bit (the boulder has moved a lot!!). The upper crux I found bouldery and powerful, I think I may have missed a hold though. Cool route.

Adam Booth 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

One big pitch. Was slapping at the top! Great route.

Ed morris 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Adam Bevan
Ollie B 31/May/13 Lead rpt

Seconded 2 years ago. Had completely forgotten about the top section. Bit goey.

with D.Campbell
markalmack 05/May/13 AltLd rpt

P2. The large boulder at the base has gone! Adds a few steep moves on that greasy glassy rock.

with gwen
quiffhanger 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

V fun, tho wasn't so sure which line I did. Def spent some time on the Arete but don't recall any upper crux...

with Kate
barni 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with luke
Ramon Marin 07/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with ciaran tracey
Justin T 08/Apr/12 2nd

P2 around the arete

with Cherry
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Oddjob 08/Apr/12 2nd β
with Markus
drcorbasisgod 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
cem 29/Aug/11 2nd dog

Climbed 6a pitch cleanly but slipped off crux on p2, which I found harder

catblack 17/Aug/11 2nd dog

nice route, thought the top crux was harder cause i'm not very strong

Andrew Barker 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Linked both pitches. A fantastic route.

Hidden 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
redjerry ?/Aug/11 TR O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/11 2nd dog
thomasadixon 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
dannyboy83 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 04/Jul/11 2nd rpt

Fell on lead, felt strong but missed a hold on the crux, standard behaviour, found the 6b solution to a 5c problem... Felt fine on second.

hamish2016 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Wil Treasure
drysori 01/Jul/11 AltLd

Fell off first pitch.

with hamdunn
dan gibson 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Luke Brooks 27/Apr/11 2nd
with John Orr
GrantB 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Robertson
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Pippa 22/Apr/11 2nd
with Jon
markalmack 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with james marjot
mwatson ??/2011 -
innes ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Nearly blew it above the cave, which wouldn't be good. Much more sensible to do in a single pitch.

with Nibs
Rob Pitt 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Owen Davies
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Fran S8 28/Aug/10 2nd
Rich Kirby 05/Aug/10 2nd
with Nige
nige 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with richard kirby
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Audrey Seguy ?/May/10 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 08/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
fennerz 08/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

led top pitch. Fantastic!

with Angus and Ed
anguskille 08/Apr/10 2nd

loved the top pitch, quite fun

with Tom and Ed
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Sam the Butcher 15/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

led top pitch

with andy latta and tom ce
Shauna 28/Jun/09 2nd dog
with Jules
Alex Mason 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Both pitches, very fingery crux first pitch, buzzing.

with Nick Rabb
Brown 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with John
feilx 29/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Andy L
datoon 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with K
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd dog
Chad123 18/May/08 AltLd dog

Did as two pitches and I lobbed on the first pitch, Emily took a nasty big fall on the second pitch. We couldn't work out whether to climb the slab or the arete. Brilliant climbing though....

with Emily
Ram MkiV 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Did as one long pitch. top pitch very basic and satisfying climbing on big holds.

with Dan
feilx 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/06 2nd
Mark Riley 13/Jun/06 2nd
with Reeve
Hidden 05/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/06 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/05 2nd dog
Gus 30/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden 13/Apr/04 Lead O/S
fyfee8a ??/2004 -
Hidden 28/Aug/03 Lead O/S
spidey 25/Aug/03 Lead O/S
buzby78 09/May/02 Lead
Adam Lincoln ??/2002 Lead
goi.ashmore 02/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
ellis ?/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
Billg ??/2000 Lead dog

Fell 20ft off top pitch - badly strained my achillies tendons, but still reled pitch. Coudn't get up after sitting down at the top - amazing what adrenaline does

with A.Nugent
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/99 Lead O/S
Si Clapham ??/1998 2nd
with Martin Richards
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
Steve Long ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/97 2nd
sadams 28/Mar/97 2nd
with John Boyle
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/96 Lead O/S
Billg ??/1995 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
craig h ??/1994 Lead
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 Lead
with Graham Iles
Chris Ellis 09/Sep/92 2nd

First pitch only

with Rick Kerr
Hidden ?/Sep/92 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 31/Mar/91 Lead

David led both pitches! A great effort.

with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Mar/91 Lead O/S

fine

Eduardo Martinez ?/May/90 AltLd O/S

led second pitch

Rich Kirby 13/Apr/90 AltLd O/S
DDDD ??/1990 Lead O/S

Great E4, scary second pitch

Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with Paul Greenland
Hidden 26/Aug/89 Lead
Bruce Kerr 28/Mar/89 Lead
with Neville Elstone
Alan James - UKC and UKH 24/Aug/87 Lead
with Tudor Griffiths
Hidden 22/Apr/87 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Greg Cunningham ?/Jun/86 AltLd

I lead first pitch

with terry ralphs
Hidden 24/May/86 2nd
ukb shark 03/Apr/86 Lead O/S
keefe 19/Feb/86 -
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
MikeYouCanClimb ??/1986 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 08/Apr/83 Lead O/S
with Phil Ralph
Mark Kemball 30/Mar/83 Lead
with Simon Yates
Hidden 20/Jun/81 AltLd O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
bronsonite ??/0000 Lead
with Alex Cannon
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
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Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
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Not Set