Rockfax Description
One of the classic routes of the area which follows the most substantial line on the face. Start beneath the larger of the two right-facing corners. Climb the wall into the corner and follow this to the roof. The roof can be passed on either side. Move back to gain the exposed continuation groove/crack which leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 5.76

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The Top 5 E2's in the UK?, The Best of Pembroke.

soph 09/May 2nd rpt
with Gosia Lipinski
gurumed 28/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with gjd
gjd 28/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Gurumed
GridNorth 10/Sep/15 2nd

Not easy but superb. Went left at the roof. Better done in the afternoon at this time of year. It was all a bit damp and dismal and quite intimidating with a rising tide and heavy swell. Probably feel a grade easier in warm sunshine and a calm sea.

with Martin Lancaster
chrisallan 01/Sep/15 2nd dog
theotherpetehill 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Mark Grist 15/Aug/15 2nd
PaulTanton 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Adam24B 14/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Climbed the roof on the right, extended gear below the crux then realised that none of it was extended enough so got some wicked rope drag but thoroughly enjoyed the route, I'd say the best Pembroke E2 I've done!

Kris2fa 14/Aug/15 2nd dog
with Adam24B
Ian Jones 30/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Superb and perhaps easier for the vertically challenged.

with Dan Moore (DCD)
Hidden 30/Jul/15 Lead
Avon Man 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Absorbing climbing up an imposing line in a beautiful setting - all in all a great route! Started from a hanging thread belay just above high tide line.

with Derek
james1978 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Scary and airy!

with pam
Hidden 24/May/15 2nd O/S
climbingpixie 24/May/15 Lead O/S

Epic! Great line up the crag. Thought the crux was hard, 5c not 5b, but it's pretty easy above and below so not a hard E2.

with Andy
alastairbegley 23/May/15 Lead dnf

Don't know if I was doing something wrong, but the move I was trying to do into the hanging groove certainly wasn't 5b! triied as hard as I could on my first attempt and knackered myself, had another few goes but with a tired body I decided to escape right.

Slick 23/May/15 2nd
Brian Rodgers 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Mike Todd 06/Apr/15 2nd dog
quiffhanger 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Quite wet and a little loose with some very traditional climbing = a very traumatised second.

with Rachel
Hidden 05/Apr/15 2nd O/S
grp 12/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tobydunford 28/May/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Rachel Slater 09/May/14 2nd O/S
Justin T 09/May/14 Lead O/S

Perhaps it was the heavy swell and the hustling wind, but this felt nails. Looked both ways around the roof, going left appears to involve ascending a blank wall to undercuts. After finally committing going right was very, very bunched for a 6'3" lanky streak of piss and ended with one of the most powerful pulls I had to make all weekend. Yet again full respect those gnarly 70s dudes!

with Rachel
Sarah Black 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
gazhbo 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
lukehodson 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Wet and greasy! Great route

al99 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Drizzling and therefore quite greasy, still an awesome route though!

with Luke Hodson
James Oswald 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S

really cool setting, very good climbing in the upper half of the route.

Hidden 27/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 12/Aug/13 2nd β
Lessworkmoreclimbing 08/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Climbed the roof on its right which was quite exciting. Kev found it easier on the left. Really good route, think I could lead it.

with Kev
Chriswallis2 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
tatz45 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
JonathanJones 30/Jul/13 2nd O/S

scary move over roof - the 5b move

Mark Grist 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 22/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Stone Muppet 06/Jul/13 Lead

Rested on one nut post crux, because I was lame and unfit and took about 10 goes to do said crux. So long in fact that Ami got heatstroke on the belay and with the help of other climbers on their way home had to be hoisted off the crag. Followed by me going back down for the gear. Lol.

with ah
Alice Thompson 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Michael Porter
dan gibson 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with alice thompson
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Lenny 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Phil .N
Phill Mitch 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S

One of the very best routes of it's grade I have done. Brilliant line, fantastic location, and ultimate exposure. The climbing's not bad either!

with Mick & Dan
Duncan Campbell 30/May/13 Lead O/S

Awesome, wild, and a brilliant line!

with Ollie B
Dave Musgrove 02/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Super route after day on the beach with the kids. We took the crux bulge on the left. Great moves in exciting positions.

with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 02/Apr/13 Lead

Just brilliant. Great fun with Dad

with Dad
Tubs 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Dave M
Ollie B 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Cool route.

with Pete and Livvi
colesy 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/12 2nd O/S
chris wyatt 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

some of the rock looks a bit dodgy - but it probably isnt! Lovely upper crack after an extended crux

annetweddell 02/Sep/11 2nd
with Jeff
david morse 01/Sep/11 2nd rpt
markalmack 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 28/Aug/11 2nd dog
with Neil Weymouth
Owen W-G 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S

One of the best routes I've ever done, stunning evening conditions in full bronze

with Jim
Hidden 18/Aug/11 2nd
tim newton 01/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
givemetea 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Helen King
3 Names 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd β
mattnuttall 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Ian Heginbotham
Different Steve 28/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Guy Reid
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
irish paul 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead β
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney ?/Aug/10 Lead
with Tanya Milner
Hidden 21/Sep/09 2nd dog
Jamie Goodwin 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Rescued ralph from the tide with a hanging belay below the roof

Hidden 18/Sep/09 2nd rpt
belay bunny turned bad 18/Sep/09 Lead
with loundsy
RobRock84 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Adam Bevan
ian d f 10/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Pritty exciting (bold) move right past overhang bit

with Pete H
HappyTrundler 08/Aug/09 Lead dog

Thought it was hard for E2 5b compared to other Pembroke E2's I've done, and certainly compared to Wye Valley / Avon E2's. I ran out of gear 25 foot from the top and had to have a top rope. Straightforward to the overhang then steep with no real rests...

with Tommy
david morse 01/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Damn good, only 5b if youve got the guns. i think bold HVS with a well protected 5c move in the middle. Classic

with jon denniss
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd dog
Billg 30/Aug/08 2nd
with Bob Brewer
Julian Wedd ??/2008 2nd

Very good indeed

with A. Howarth
Hidden 17/Sep/07 2nd dog
feilx 27/Aug/07 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
mbutton ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Price
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
ASchwirtz 27/Aug/06 Lead dnf
with Graham
Bella 05/Aug/06 2nd
with Chris
Boy ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S
Dave Reeve ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
max_chan ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S
with Rick
duncana 28/Aug/05 2nd

Very pleased to get through the overhang (on right), but tired in higher crack

with Pippa Archer
Dan Savory 16/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/05 2nd
Brown 02/Aug/05 2nd
Neil Ireson ?/Aug/05 Lead
with John
GuyM ??/2005 -
with jim
cem 28/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Liam Mark
Urgles ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

Belayed at start of upper groove ( after crux) due to rope drag and seconded that section. Tough crux

with Jack G
steveb2006 30/Aug/03 2nd

Another repeat but very good

with Paul Eastwood
steveb2006 15/Aug/03 2nd
with Roland Smith
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 21/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/00 Lead
Martin Bennett 24/Aug/00 -
with MT
Billg ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden ??/2000 2nd
Tim M ??/2000 -
steveb2006 10/Sep/99 2nd
with Mike Pycroft
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/97 2nd
with Hugh
Hidden ??/1997 2nd
craig h 14/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
michael burrows 18/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with mark ryan
Gregory ?/Aug/96 Lead
with seb Kramer
Hidden ?/Sep/95 AltLd
mikej 19/Aug/95 Lead dnf
with Nick Salmon
steve taylor ??/1995 -
Hidden ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 26/Sep/93 2nd
with Bruce
Hidden ??/1990 -
Neil R 30/Aug/87 2nd
with Mark
steveb2006 09/Aug/87 Lead
with Mervyn Dudley
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Nigel Coe ??/1987 -
Mike Owen 05/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
shark 14/Sep/84 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 30/Aug/83 2nd
with Dave Abbey, Dave McCann
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High E3
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High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 41
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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