UKC

Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  

 

42m.

Rockfax Description
This excellent route fills the gap between the arete and the corner of Diedre Sud. Start from the base of the corner and trend leftwards up the wall, to the break. (It is possible to take a belay on the left at the break). From the break continue straight up some cracks above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Harwood, A.Sharp Oct/1975.

Ticklists

Ultimate E1 ticklist , Pembs Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
JaySheppard 4 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Attempted as a single pitch and took a Snozwanger of a whipper pumped out near the top and badly sprained my ankle clipping it on a ledge on the way down. HVS in my CC guidebook, would call it an upper limit E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Attempted as a single pitch and took a Snozwanger of a whipper pumped out near the top and badly sprained my ankle clipping it on a ledge on the way down. HVS in my CC guidebook, would call it an upper limit E1.
a_radiohead_fan 18 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: felt hvs to me. It is best done in 1 pitch. nice climbing worthy of 2 stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: felt hvs to me. It is best done in 1 pitch. nice climbing worthy of 2 stars.
Danos 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Glad I wasn't the only one who found this stiff for HVS. Did it in one pitch, and the second half is a lot harder than the first.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Glad I wasn't the only one who found this stiff for HVS. Did it in one pitch, and the second half is a lot harder than the first.
Tony Holdsworth 17 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Worth E1 on Pitch 2.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth E1 on Pitch 2.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Mowing Word

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 99
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 93
Votes cast 96
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cool for Cats

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stennis Head)

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