Rockfax Description
This excellent climb for those who have just enjoyed Heart of Darkness. Follow Heart of Darkness to the traverse line then climb up until it is possible to move left into the bottomless corner above the big roof. Climb the exposed corner to the top. © Rockfax

FA. R.Burns 4.76 Apr/1976

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads.

Rob Rocket 30/Aug 2nd
with Adam Ellwood
Scooter Young 30/Aug 2nd
Pete_Frost 16/Aug Lead O/S

Continually absorbing climbing. The foot holds are always there if you look long enough. Diverted into this when we found a party on HoD/New Morning so I fortunately had two enormous cams to place in the break to protect the first moves upwards.

with Luke Maggs
Mark Grist 15/Aug Lead O/S
with Paul Tanton
Ian Jones 30/Jul Lead O/S

Harder for the vertically challenged and a little bold above the polished breaks.

with Dan Moore (DCD)
Hidden 30/Jul 2nd
sparbus 16/Jul 2nd
with mike b
Jim Brooke 28/Jun 2nd O/S

brilliant! steep juggy climbing, sunshine and crashing waves

with Tom Rainbow
james1978 09/Jun Lead O/S
with pam
Hidden 24/May Lead O/S
climbingpixie 24/May 2nd O/S

Nice climbing, fairly soft for E1 with a massive ledge to rest on before you do the crux.

with Andy
Hidden 23/May Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 06/Apr 2nd O/S
darcan 05/Apr 2nd O/S
with nick
nickstephens 05/Apr Lead O/S
with Darcan
PaulTanton 04/Apr Lead rpt

This is such a good route. Quite easy for the grade

with Dennis Gleeson
Hidden ??/2015 -
gurumed 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with gjd
gjd 27/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Gurumed
Tubs 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Excellent. Looks harder than it is when you make the moves away from gear but holds always appear.

with Dave M
spidermonkey09 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S

The hardest E1 I've done in some time. Not obvious where to go at all and requires faith in whats above. Great moves, well worth top50 for me.

Ella7 11/Sep/14 2nd dog

Amazing climbing, but hard E1!

rd20 26/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Patrick
3 Names 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Patrick Goodwin
rd20 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Sumee
louby 24/Aug/14 2nd

I wimped out traverse was a little intimidating

chris_B 24/Aug/14 Lead
Dilwat 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Tim M 16/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Emma
climbergg 16/Aug/14 2nd
nickdonohue 16/Aug/14 Lead


Dizz 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with rob p
tobydunford 28/May/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Tim W 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Cat, Matthew Thomson
arthur_de_briton 04/May/14 2nd
with tim wilkinson, cat mckenna
Olli-C 02/May/14 2nd O/S

Blind and bold - tricky.

with chi
steve.warrington 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ??/2014 -
Dave Reeve 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Really good route...went straight up from start and then left under roof instead of traversing left along heart of darkness first - I think it makes a better route

with Tony Payne
lukehodson 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S

In the fog/rain. Felt hard for E1

al99 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Luke Hodson
John Nuttall 02/Sep/13 2nd
with Jon
ian caton 31/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Abi
Abi Chard 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
Lessworkmoreclimbing 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Backed out of leading this, felt tired and lost confidence. Not sure what it was like, too tired to notice!

with Kev
Harri777 26/Aug/13 2nd
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Rachel Somerville 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ted
Rob84 19/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Rob Adie
Hidden 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Alice Thompson 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
dan gibson 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with alice thompson
Phill Mitch 24/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with mick
Hidden 31/May/13 Lead O/S
Ollie B 30/May/13 Lead O/S

Excellent fun.

with D.Campbell
Duncan Campbell 30/May/13 2nd

Tricky for sure!

with Ollie B
Haydn Jones 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with pep
Dave Musgrove Jnr 03/Apr/13 Lead


with Viv
adie84 ??/2013 -
nickstephens 19/Sep/12 2nd O/S
gg4419 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/12 2nd
PaulTanton 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Nice climbing. Had cold hands as it was in the shade

with Dave Taylor
Adam Booth 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S


dj hannaford 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Best E1 ever so nice and much variety of techniques and holds

with adam bevan
simonp ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Ed morris 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Adam Bevan
John Lewis 04/Jun/12 2nd dog
with Barra
Hidden 11/May/12 2nd O/S
Kirill 05/May/12 2nd O/S
cem 05/May/12 Lead O/S

Faffed around for ages at the crux

annetweddell 02/Sep/11 2nd

Didn't fancy leading this. Too many days of Pembroke climbing with no rest day...

with Jeff
Pete Nugent 01/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Excellent weather, great route. A "retro onsight?", I last did this route in Aug 2001. Some tough moves to get established in the groove from the arete. Delightful climbing up the groove, brillant golden rock in the afternnon sun.

with Nigel Lyle (LMC), Richard Toon
Graham Iles 28/Aug/11 2nd
with Neil Stabbs
Owen W-G 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jim
Hidden 18/Aug/11 2nd
Gregory 17/Aug/11 2nd

lead sometime in 80/90s

with cockers
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Jessie Rushbrooke 03/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Paul D
Oliver Sherman 25/Sep/10 2nd
with Deniz Sumengen
mattnuttall 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Ian Heginbotham
Ketu 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Sensationally good!! felt confident and climbed it well, so it felt easy enough to relax for full enjoyment :D

with Rob
Cragrat Rich 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Proper classy and adventurous. Some pretty hard sections are short lived and faith in the grade pays dividends as the holds keep getting discovered on lower half. Upper section is a delight!

Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd
d_meacher 07/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Leelogs 10/Oct/09 2nd
with Chris
just one more 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with tim b
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Jamie Goodwin 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
mynyddresident ??/2009 AltLd
Paul Bowen 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S

rockfax description is a little confusing. You actually follow the traverse for 3 mts before going straight up.

Hidden 27/Sep/08 2nd
gjd 27/Sep/08 2nd
with Ronnie
Hidden 23/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Tim M 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 31/Aug/08 2nd
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with A. Howarth
Hidden 30/Aug/07 2nd
Marti999 ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
drysori 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Excellent, different character to most of the routes encountered in the week. A couple of quite thin moves, and then relatively easy climbing to finish. The moves away from the traverse of HoD felt very committing.

with JenW
a_radiohead_fan ?/Aug/06 -
david morse ?/Aug/06 Lead dog

hidden hold around arete..

with rampant
Bern ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
shoulders 07/Aug/05 Lead
with dai
Hidden 06/Aug/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/05 Lead
Brown 02/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Neil Ireson ?/Aug/05 Lead
with John
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths ??/2004 -
with sean and hayley
belay bunny turned bad ??/2004 -
DavidR 17/Aug/03 Lead dog
with Will
ian caton ??/2003 Lead O/S
with garry
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
bullybones ??/2002 -
Hidden 18/Sep/01 2nd
Rock Fairy ?/Sep/01 2nd

A commiting climb. I found getting inti the corner hard.

with david
Pete Nugent ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Simon Harry
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
Hidden 04/Aug/00 Lead
Billg ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
dickypips ??/1999 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 30/Aug/98 Lead
with Louise Pellett
Dave Musgrove Jnr 29/Aug/98 Lead
with Sam Dew, Simon Witcher
Hidden 11/Aug/98 Lead O/S
chris sm 14/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Dom Goodridge
Hidden ??/1997 -
michael burrows 18/Aug/96 2nd
with mark ryan
Hidden 23/Sep/95 Lead
mikej 18/Aug/95 Lead
with Nick Salmon
rob.grafton 26/Sep/93 Lead
with Bruce
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Ian Jones, misterb, EyebrowTom, Hidden, hutchay, mike mo, Phil Ingle, Hidden, Hidden, Dan Lane, Hidden, Hidden, Alan100, johnpr, tobydunford, beegsyboy
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