Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Once an enjoyable and popular classic but it has suffered from rockfalls over the years. The route has now stabilised but is still a bit dirty and is also a popular nesting zone. Start beneath the corner and climb the right-hand groove and some cracks above it, to a ledge. Follow the corner above to its top. © Rockfax
FA. C.Mortlock, C.Litton 20/Aug/1969.
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Wales Trip - 2022
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kike Kikon | 9 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Chossy and with birds. Not worth climbing it, has to be one of the shittiest routes in MCK | βeta? | |
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βeta: Chossy and with birds. Not worth climbing it, has to be one of the shittiest routes in MCK |
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Kev Little | 6 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Climbed straight up the corner, would say about E1 5a, looks chossy in the top half but actually more pleasant than it looks | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed straight up the corner, would say about E1 5a, looks chossy in the top half but actually more pleasant than it looks |
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Mark Morris | 23 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Seconded this on Sat 21st May 2005. Split it into 2 pitches at the ledges. 1st Pitch good, as are the moves out right to continue on the 2nd, after that it has become a pile of muddy, loose rubbish! Wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Serious possibility of large rockfall from 3/4 of way up. Mark | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Seconded this on Sat 21st May 2005. Split it into 2 pitches at the ledges. 1st Pitch good, as are the moves out right to continue on the 2nd, after that it has become a pile of muddy, loose rubbish! Wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Serious possibility of large rockfall from 3/4 of way up. Mark |
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PontiusPirate | 7 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Climbed it August 2004. Although the grade remains (roughly) the same, the upper section of the route is still loose, dirty and serious. We had to exit rightwards from the top of the groove via muddy cracks as the left-hand exit consisted of stacked loose blocks. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed it August 2004. Although the grade remains (roughly) the same, the upper section of the route is still loose, dirty and serious. We had to exit rightwards from the top of the groove via muddy cracks as the left-hand exit consisted of stacked loose blocks. |
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O. C. Curmudgeon | 16 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: The flake fell down a number of years ago. It was not there in May 2001. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The flake fell down a number of years ago. It was not there in May 2001. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Carreg-y-Barcud Area)