UKC

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Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

40m.

Rockfax Description
Once an enjoyable and popular classic but it has suffered from rockfalls over the years. The route has now stabilised but is still a bit dirty and is also a popular nesting zone. Start beneath the corner and climb the right-hand groove and some cracks above it, to a ledge. Follow the corner above to its top. © Rockfax

FA. C.Mortlock, C.Litton 20/Aug/1969.

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Wales Trip - 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kike Kikon 9 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Chossy and with birds. Not worth climbing it, has to be one of the shittiest routes in MCK
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Chossy and with birds. Not worth climbing it, has to be one of the shittiest routes in MCK
Kev Little 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed straight up the corner, would say about E1 5a, looks chossy in the top half but actually more pleasant than it looks
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed straight up the corner, would say about E1 5a, looks chossy in the top half but actually more pleasant than it looks
Mark Morris 23 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Seconded this on Sat 21st May 2005. Split it into 2 pitches at the ledges. 1st Pitch good, as are the moves out right to continue on the 2nd, after that it has become a pile of muddy, loose rubbish! Wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Serious possibility of large rockfall from 3/4 of way up. Mark
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seconded this on Sat 21st May 2005. Split it into 2 pitches at the ledges. 1st Pitch good, as are the moves out right to continue on the 2nd, after that it has become a pile of muddy, loose rubbish! Wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Serious possibility of large rockfall from 3/4 of way up. Mark
PontiusPirate 7 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed it August 2004. Although the grade remains (roughly) the same, the upper section of the route is still loose, dirty and serious. We had to exit rightwards from the top of the groove via muddy cracks as the left-hand exit consisted of stacked loose blocks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed it August 2004. Although the grade remains (roughly) the same, the upper section of the route is still loose, dirty and serious. We had to exit rightwards from the top of the groove via muddy cracks as the left-hand exit consisted of stacked loose blocks.
O. C. Curmudgeon 16 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The flake fell down a number of years ago. It was not there in May 2001.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The flake fell down a number of years ago. It was not there in May 2001.

Logged Ascents

216 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 33
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Great Valerio

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Carreg-y-Barcud Area)

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