UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

Rockfax Description
A stunning and historically significant hard route which has seen very few on-sight ascents. Get to the spike belay below the top headwall on Cream. As for Cream, then make a hard move to gain the crack on the left. Follow this until it peters out and make hard and difficult moves up left to easier climbing near the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A route that has stood the test of time and still sees very few on-sights. Sustained with a crux at the bottom and another at the top. Originally graded E5 7a and once considered the hardest route in the country. The second ascent was made by an unknown youth at the time called Jerry Moffatt.

Ron Fawcett 1980.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , North Wales Super Route E6's , North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Classic Lobs , 100 Worthwhile E7's , UK Crack Hitlist , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Another lifelist?

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 11
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Box of Blood

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Craig Doris)

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