Another tremendous route. A bit eliminate in its lower section, but it finishes in a wild position on the headwall. Start up and right of Vector, below a wide corner.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb the groove above to the massive spike on Vector P2 and belay.
2) 5c, 20m. Join Vector and climb it through the Ochre Slab. At its top, pull right round a corner to a ledge. Move up right and climb a hidden crack to a sloping ledge belay below a pod.
3) 6a, 18m. Climb into the hanging pod with difficulty and pull out left at the top. A long reach up gains the crack which is climbed with even more difficulty. Keep going up the crack and another on the right to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the groove to the right of Vector to the spike belay of Vector. Climb the Ochre Slab to its top then move right to a short steep crack leading to a sloping ledge belay under the pod (can be done in 1 pitch). Pull steeply into the pod and at its top exit left to a jug. Pull up the wall past a peg then keep going up easier, but still pumpy cracks.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
got lucky! thank god for the hand jam/ finger lock!
Did first 2 pitches. Ry did 6a pitch, strong lead
|pete johnson||25/May||AltLd dog||
Peg gone from crux. Damp.
|geoff b||25/May||AltLd dog||
Pete led the first pitches as one, to put me in pole position, only for me to blow it; had to use a nut to do the crux move. No peg but plenty of nuts available if you can hang around long enough to place them. I had no idea how to make that move, even with a rest.
|Tom Livingstone||23/May||Lead rpt||
Top pitch only
P1&2 as one. Top pitch was wet so finished up The Snake
|Ram MkiV||11/Jun/14||Lead β||
|Pieterjan De Roo||18/Sep/13||Lead O/S||
Only did the last pitch
|Andy Peak 1||23/Aug/13||AltLd||
1st pich only on lead
What a great route, building to a spectacular finish on the headwall. Memorable for the climbing and also the soaking that we got at the end! After doing Vector, Nick and I picked up Eszter, who had been climbing with Dan Gibson but clearly hadn't had enough, though she did take a bit of persuading that she wouldn't slow us down (as if!). Planned to do Cream but Eszter was saving it for the onsight, so we settled on Void. Nick did the deceptively hard 5b first pitch (looks like a scramble, actually quite tricky and pretty sustained), Eszter did the 5c second pitch through the Ochre Slab deja vu!) and across a space walking traverse above the Void (a relief to find the 'secret holds'h, while I got the 6a crux final pitch, which was 'proper' E4 6a and featured a crux that was de-Void of holds! The pod was pretty evil but succumbed to cunning finger locks and bridging. Spent a while sitting one the jug and trying to go up but getting nowhere near the finger lock before eventually spotting the smaller finger lock - wasn't actually that hard. The headwall was pleasantly sustained. Eszter shot up on second, putting my snail pace lead to shame. She had seen the rain coming... Then it was Nick's turn just as the rain arrived! It gathered intensity as he raced to beat it with a couple of falls and just after he got over the crux the heavens unleashed a torrential downpour! This was still sustained 5b/c ground so hats off to Nick for finishing it. We got absolutely soaked but were all very happy to have done a great route :-) Of course it stopped raining by the time we got back down :-/. Oh, and there is no peg - but it's pretty well protected anyway.
|tim newton||22/May/13||AltLd O/S||
I lead pitches 1&2 in a oner, which is a great pitch, then seconded the top pitch. Thought it was harder than cream (a bit more sustained and with a slightly harder move) though still seemed pretty steady for E4. Great climb.
|Tom Livingstone||20/Apr/13||Lead dog||
Technical. Spat off at the crux, but can't wait to get back on this and find the easier sequence! Must've had 6 attempts climbing up and down to the crux before lactic acid replaced the blood in my arms!
|Sam Melville||04/Oct/12||AltLd dnf||
head wall goping
|Luke Brooks||12/Jul/12||AltLd rpt||
In 2 pitches, led top one.
|Mike Goldthorp||17/Apr/12||Lead RP||
Finally got round to getting back on this after falling off the onsight a couple of years ago. Couldnt remember the crux sequence so got quite pumped, then it clicked and had to fight the pump the whole way up, yeaaaahooo!
Terrible terrible climbing by me, well ard. amazing route though!
Pete led the 1st slippy hard pitch and I led through on the 2nd finding hidden holds in the crack before the stance. Abbed off - neither of us felt up to completing top pitch of Void or Cream
|Toby Dunn||01/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
crux pitch running with water. Harder than Cockblock in that condition, but still excellent.
|Daniel Heath||05/Jul/11||2nd β||
Pitch one only. Tricky 3D climbing. 5b but made it feel much harder the way I did it...
|belay bunny turned bad||04/Jun/11||AltLd dnf||
escaped into gull after pitch 2. Too hot and sweaty :(
|Ed Booth||04/Mar/11||Lead O/S||
Brutal top pitch, well good!
|Adam Booth||04/Mar/11||2nd dog||
Had to rest on the rope. Bloody nails!
|Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor||??/2011||-|
Did first two pitches in a oner, which was exciting. Ralph then cruised the top pitch, after a slip early on. I cruised bottom of the crack but fluffed the move past the peg, pulled back on straight off and did, will return but a hard move.
Mike lead most of p1 & 2 in one I finished the bit after the ochre slab, then accidently moved onto Cream for the last pitch. Will have to come back to finish it!
|Rich Kirby||28/Aug/10||AltLd O/S|
Top pitch only.
Amazing route, great moves. Top pitch only. One wet hold near the bottom
|beci tointen||?/Jul/10||Lead O/S||
my uncle carl
Top pitch of Void with first pitches of Cream.
Konrad Doyle, Barni
|Mike Goldthorp||10/Feb/10||Lead dog||
Best line ever! pod is cool and technical, crux is desperate but easy when you know how. must have down climbed from crux attempts about 10 times, savage!
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||??/2010||AltLd||
Tried in 2007, groove was much harder than i remembered. Crux felt easy this time . Pumpy, sustained, Superb pitch.
|Toby Dunn||29/Aug/09||Lead O/S||
headwall pitch was harder than Cream
|dan gibson||22/Apr/09||Lead O/S||
|andi turner||19/Apr/09||Lead O/S||
Various International meet
|Alex Mason||03/Apr/07||Lead dnf||
pumped out on this like no other. physically peeled off the holds made it to 2/3 height past crux. deffo return to this.
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||16/Sep/06||TR rpt||
|IOAN D||27/Aug/06||Lead O/S||
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2005||-|
traininng for troll
|Southern Mark Smith||??/1995||-|
|Ian Jones||??/1995||Lead dnf||
Pitch one and two only and then it rained.
hopped up top pitch with one shoe
|michael burrows||19/Jun/94||AltLd rpt||
David led crux pitch.
|Nick Biven||07/Jul/91||2nd O/S||
|Steve Crowe||10/Jul/90||Lead O/S||
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||10/Jul/90||AltLd|
|michael burrows||06/Aug/89||AltLd rpt||
led pitch 3, also lawrence cox
Had 2nd Andrew Horn in 1986. Since led a further 4 times
I'd failed on the top pitch a couple of years earlier due to a heavy rainstorm.
|Dave Douglas||25/Jul/88||2nd O/S|
|Mike Owen||01/Feb/87||Lead rpt||
|William Robertson||??/1987||Lead O/S||
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
|Mike Owen||10/Mar/84||Lead rpt||
|Mike Owen||17/Feb/81||2nd rpt||
|steve L||12/Jul/78||Lead O/S||
|Mike Owen||28/May/77||Lead O/S||
The route had been freed when I climbed it but it was usually done with one peg for aid, which I used. So not 6a...