Rockfax Description
An immaculate pitch and one of the best of its grade in the area with technically varied and absorbing climbing. The difficulty gently escalates culminating in a challenging finale. Climb easily to a peg then make a tricky move up and right to good holds by a small sapling. Continue up a slight groove following cracks to a second peg. Move left and step up to a good resting ledge beneath an overhang. Undercut rightwards beneath the overhang then pull around the slight arete to reach another good rest beside a small niche. Pull up and leftwards on small holds to reach bigger holds beneath a peg. Above the peg is a good jug and reaching it is hard. Once gained, pull up slightly leftwards - still difficult - to a small sapling, then finish easily to the right. © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Cathcart, Gerald Swindley 11.6.73 11/Jun/1973

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List, Suggested routes stripes should do....

spalice 06/Aug Lead rpt


FreddieSmith 06/Aug 2nd rpt
spalice 04/Aug 2nd O/S

Amazing climb! Definitely need to get back and lead it!

FreddieSmith 04/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 05/Jun Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
Coel Hellier 12/Oct/14 Lead
Brannock 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Good route, some bold bits leading up to the peg below the jug, which has a great move to get to it.

Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

a fantastic route which is superb and not as soft as i was expecting. Loved the whole route!

with Martin Wing
ripper 29/Jun/14 Lead

A fantastic route which is superb and not as hard as I was expecting! Not strictly on-sight, as I'd watched the previous poster and partner on the bottom half, and seen where some of their gear placements where, also got some shouted instructions about where the line went from below, but really who cares? not me, it was just a lovely climb :)

with Matt Chap
Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 16/Aug/13 2nd

A great route which seemed a bit more solid than the others we did.

with Si
Speeddemonsi 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
chriswood 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
eduardo 03/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Misha looked comfortable all the way. I was pleased to get it clean.

with Misha
Misha 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

A great route with good climbing throughout but not very hard for E2. Technical and slightly bold in places but not particularly physical. After going up and right from the massive undercuts, not sure I went right as far as the guide book suggests but the line I followed was logical. A nice technical sequence to gain a mini jug, followed by enjoyable face clibing and another great technical sequence to gain THE jug - which wasn't as tricky as the guide book made it out to be. Unless I'm having a mind blank, there is no peg below the sequence to the mega jug but it's well protected with wires anyway. A really windy day, got a bit cold while Ed was trying to retrieve the last nut before the mega jug, in the end he gave up so I ended up abbing down for it and managed to get it out :-)

with Ed
Hidden 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 19/Jun/13 2nd
with Niall Grimes
switch 08/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Leanne
ian caton 07/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Abi
Abi Chard 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ian
Chriswallis2 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Diggler 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Calders first E2 :-) well done

with Calder
Calder 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

First E2 and what a route. Had a moment after traversing round the roof, but pulled it together for the grand finale. Cheers Diggler.

with Mark
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
luke384 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S
marky 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Great route to get back into the trad!

with Sharon
Tomprusk 03/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Top move is escapable but it is a superb climb. horrifically windy today mind!

with Rosie, Nick
Hidden 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Mr Sparkle 09/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead
Oli 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

On Dave's gear. Good climbing.

mynyddresident 06/Jul/11 Lead O/S

A cool trip with technical non pumpy climbing. Went wrong way at the top mind, out left into a flake instead of up from the peg. Tricky all the same. There's a photo of the top move in the guide somewere I later discovered.

with gareth
Rob Pitt 19/Jun/11 2nd
Laurence Everitt 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

I've not done too many trad routes better than this

Harry Thorpe 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Absolutely brilliant

halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Lovely route

zero six ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
greenclimb 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah
barni 18/Oct/10 2nd O/S
DomWatson 17/Oct/10 2nd dog
Billg 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
Justin T 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Cherry
Owen W-G 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Really involving experience. The move up to the final peg in particular quite committing, then well-pro crux to the jug with a massive stretch. As 3 star as routes get. 2 and half hour round trip from car park just about doable if you send your partner to sprint back just before gates are locked at 5pm.

Ed Booth 16/Aug/10 2nd rpt
phil64 ?/Aug/10 AltLd
phil64 ?/Aug/10 2nd
grady ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
sadams 24/Jul/10 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Marti999 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Graham C 15/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
Hidden 20/Aug/09 -
Adam Booth 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Love this climb so much. Found the crux more reachy than last year!

Ed Booth 16/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 12/Aug/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/09 2nd
richardhopton 28/May/09 2nd
lee richards 28/May/09 Lead

took sixtyfive minutes one fall off the crux and garry gibson taking the piss but got there in the end. only to have my mate rich hopton(billy big guns) trot up it in fine style.ba******.

kingholmesy ??/2009 2nd O/S
with Andy S
cem 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Roel
metal arms 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
anguskille 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S

awesome route, slightly polished and wanders about a bit, but nice mixed styles of climbing

fennerz 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Abosolutely fantastic! Best E2 i've done, havn't done that many but it's still utterly awesome!

mux 22/Aug/08 Lead
NeilGriffiths 22/Aug/08 -
with Dave Garry
Dan 85 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Lee
lee richards 26/Jul/08 2nd
ksjs 09/Aug/07 Lead O/S

not as brilliant as made out or maybe i just wasnt into it. got mired down in gear selection towards top. a good route with varied climbing and an interesting finish

with paul
Chubbard 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with C Godfrey
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
feilx 04/Nov/06 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 04/Nov/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Lee Proctor 29/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with Paul Bolger
spidey 27/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Hugh
nige ?/Jul/05 Lead
with mark hounslea
Hidden 11/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Brown ?/Jan/05 Lead O/S
nicholas Barrowclough 24/Jul/04 Lead
lost.arrow 13/Sep/03 -
phardman 30/Aug/03 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 27/Jul/03 -
Julian Wedd ??/2001 Lead
with A. Howarth
Shaved Atom ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/97 Lead O/S
ian caton ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Andy
Roget 23/Jul/94 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/86 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
MattKnight, AB744, spalice, Hidden, john morrissey, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ropeboy, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, jezb1, JamesRich, drcorbasisgod, Rich Kay, Tommyads, Hidden, Dan Lane, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, phil stubbs, smudge, Tom Eagle, Simon Davenport, MDowson, dicky79, Dr Fran (Vagabond MC)
High E3
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Votes cast 50
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Votes cast 47
Votes cast 47
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