UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

Rockfax Description
An extra-polished first pitch leads to more open climbing above. Start by the slab below the big diamond-shaped wall.
1) 5a, 15m. The corner is slippery and awkward - big gear needed. Belay on a ledge.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb a crack on the left near the arete to a ledge, then move up to another ledge. A short groove leads to a tree belay.
3) 4c, 15m. Climb the slab until tricky moves lead up left to gain the arete, which leads to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Welsh for 'The Frog'

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Siongethinhill 15 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Wobbly jug just when you thought it couldnt get worse!
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βeta: Wobbly jug just when you thought it couldnt get worse!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 46
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Merlin Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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