Gwynedd > Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog) >
 
Y Broga* HVS 5a

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[y Broga, 2 kb]An extra-polished first pitch leads to more-open climbing above. Start by the slab below the big diamond-shaped wall. 1) 5a, 15m. The corner is slippery and awkward - big gear needed. Belay on a ledge. 2) 4b, 15m. Climb a crack to a ledge, then move up to another ledge. A short groove leads to a tree belay. 3) 4c, 15m. Climb the slab until tricky moves lead up left to gain the arete. This leads to the top. © ROCKFAX
Welsh for 'The Frog'

Photo: y Broga © David Jones
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 252 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Seconded 1st pitch only
StevieJ - 2nd dnf - 18/Aug/14 with Catherine Claudius-Cole, lithos

C3 - 2nd dnf - 18/Aug/14 with Steve Johnson

lead first pitch
mikestr555 - AltLd - 16/Aug/14

jordan taylor - Lead RP - 03/Aug/14 with mcb

I could see my face in it it was so polished!
brolte - Lead - 17/Jul/14

Super polished first pitch, nearly slipped off (rather than fell). Ace second pitch, brilliant exposure, great holds.
Alex Riley - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Sam P

dig - AltLd - 11/Jul/14 with rob

robman - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/14

Amazing climb, first pitch very polished.
ziggy996 - 2nd O/S - 26/May/14

Hidden - AltLd - 18/May/14

First pitch is mega polished! second and third pitches really nice climbing top pitch swing on the arete is amazing exposure! lead P1 & P3
JamesWilliams - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with jamesA

Fell off the first pitch. Route 1 lay-backing up the middle section is tough due to the polish! Easier with a more delicate approach. Led pitches 2+3 strung together.
Big Lee - AltLd RP - 06/May/14 with Lawrence Dudley

damn good lead by ed on this one, they are not kidding when they say its polished! I found it desperate trying to layback and ed found it desperate burying him self in the crack! the climbing above is interesting and worthwhile.
jmills94 - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with ed

eburki1 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

Polished is an understatement on the first pitch! nice technical moves with a dynamite lay-back. Well done big Joel!!
jbclimb - 2nd dog - 17/Apr/14 with Joel Perkin snr

Repeated nearly 25 years to the day after my first go...should have been almost on sight after that amount of time, but the first pitch was exactly as I remember it. HVS is definitely appropriate for the first pitch.
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/14 with Jamo Walker

Jamo Walker - 2nd dog - 17/Apr/14 with Joel Perkins senior, Joe Rudman

davebrox - 2014

P1 and 3, definitely got the 2 best pitches on the route
pete1993 - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/13 with Jake Shaw

P2
JakeWShaw - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/13 with Pete

Louis Hume - AltLd - 05/Oct/13 with Sarah

caradoc - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13

Backed (read fell) of first pitch at about 5m, Deb lead through, I fell off three times seconding! Pitch 2 (4b) ok with an awkward move onto the arete, pitch 3 finished up the (4a) crack of Merlin by mistake.
Simon Cahill - AltLd dog - 27/Sep/13 with Deb Barnes

alpinismo.uk - AltLd - 27/Sep/13

L p1. Slippery, very tiring
Double Knee Bar - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Duncan, Bladon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13

Duncan 88 - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Glenn Manifold, Andrew Bladon

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Aug/13

Lead 1st Pitch
pbuggy91 - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/13

Fragmod - Lead - 18/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/13

P2 glossy start on p1 but one good foot for the move, 3rd is bold at aret
andyevans - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with cdpuk

cdpuk - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Andrew Evans

Lead P2. Very polished first pitch!
Tala M - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Mike Brookes

I lead P1
jezb1 - AltLd - 05/Apr/13

Hidden - 05/Apr/13

Dizz - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with David B

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/13

SimonvanDam - AltLd - 23/Feb/13 with Matt Roberts

danJBA - AltLd - 23/Feb/13 with Simon, Matt Roberts

roberts1234567890 - AltLd - 23/Feb/13 with dan abbatt, Simon Van Dam

Nick Biven - 2013

tim20 - 2013

alpinebutterfly - 22/Oct/12

carl roberts - TR - 20/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/12

Ray Sparks - 2nd - 04/Aug/12 with conrad

Didn't like the arete!
ejellard - 2nd β - 03/Aug/12

super polished first pitch!
toasted - AltLd - 29/Jul/12 with Paul Greenhow, Ian Atkins

whitehouse_rhys - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Rob law

ronmcdonald - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/12 with Dad

Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/12

Seconded the first 5A pitch, finished up Oberon as I strayed too far right of the 2nd Pitch and couldn't find a way back. (basically jibbed out)
dionhughes - AltLd dnf - 29/May/12 with Gerwyn

Led first pitch on sight with commentary from Dave. Abbed off before easier final pitches. Polished to a fine sheen. Next time, take Mongo the No.4 Camalot!
Pete_Frost - Lead β - 26/May/12 with Dave Pearce

Slip on 1st pitch due to stupidity
Jim Walton - AltLd dog - 13/May/12 with Sam Harris

SamuelHarris - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with Jim Walton

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/12

mhawk - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Kai Ren Ong

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Mar/12

HAJ Francis - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12

P2. Wet first pitch, a good lead by Henry.
JezH - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Henry Francis

Hidden - 2012

Callum Anderson - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

AntWallace - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/11

Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Dan Vallin, Alan

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Aug/11

Lawrie Brand - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/11 with Sarah Laing

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/11

Lead the first and Third pitches. Great climbing throughout. the third pitch is a real corker and feels very exposed and great fun. Well done to Ben for leading the second pitch as his first outdoor trad lead.
matthomas79 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/11

Led P1 and P3, how polished does the start want to be, bit racey through the first pitch, top pitch is awsome on real rough rock
stvredmond - AltLd - 05/Jun/11 with Sean mercer

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/11

Leo Woodhead - AltLd O/S - Jun/11 with Ian W

keithpeck - AltLd O/S - 29/May/11 with Rory Southworth

2nd first pitch and led the last two.
Rory Southworth - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11

Hidden - AltLd - 27/May/11

Michael Allday - Lead O/S - May/11 with rodney greenfield

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11

Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Christian Turford

alias dave - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Sam.EB

Pitch one. wet and quite hard. Dan lead the 2nd and third. nowt special
willoates - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Dan Lane

P2+3. I went off route and took a different, harder top two pitches.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Will Oates

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Apr/11

Did pitches 1 and 2 after Vinny's appetite deminished rather repidly halfway up the first pitch.Super polished so nothing positive at all for your feet.
ritchierich - AltLd rpt - 28/Mar/11 with Vinny

lowered off half way up first pitch after a near savage owl attack on Oakover lost my mojo :) twit twoo
vinspin - AltLd dnf - 28/Mar/11 with ritchie

led third pitch
vinspin - 2nd rpt - 28/Mar/11 with ritchie

Jon lead the hard 1st pitch and Merlin final pitch. I took the exposed 4c pitch.
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Jon Thompson

jon thompson27 - AltLd - 13/Mar/11 with Alex Thompson

Tom Livingstone - Lead - 07/Mar/11 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - 2011

Tim Sparrow - 2011

bsmedz - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

P2
The Green Giant - AltLd O/S - 21/Nov/10 with Dan with the van

dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 21/Nov/10 with AO

lead the first and last pitch.. the first is certainly interesting and quite polished
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Rob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10

Seconded first and third pitch. Led second pitch.
kim.mulji - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Jason

Led P1 and P3. Kim P2. We got a little off route somewhere on P2 and so P3 went up in the wrong spot. But P1 (the HVS pitch) was fine.
kleinej - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Kim M

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jul/10

1st pitch only. Good foot work helps.
Keith Jones - Lead - 18/Jun/10 with David

hedgehog77 - AltLd - 15/Jun/10 with ratty

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/10

r.greaves - AltLd - 06/Jun/10 with Nat

Hidden - Jun/10

Dammit! wimped out on on the slippery slab & took a rest. Not that bad in the end but all feels rather insecure.
Different Steve - Lead dog - 02/May/10 with Ian Ackerley

tomosb - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/10 with Darren Thompson

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Mar/10

o brother variation
beeson_paul - AltLd - 07/Mar/10

o brother variation (VS)
beeson_paul - AltLd - 07/Mar/10

pie_eater_pete - AltLd O/S - Feb/10 with ben smedley

MarkDavies36 - AltLd - 2010 with Jill Singleton/Davies, Corin Burdon

simeclimb68 - 2010

DuckingFesperate - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09

Hidden - TR - 02/Oct/09

Sooo polished but really enjoyed it! Great laybacking up that first pitch. Only first pitch done, ran out of time
Helen23 - 2nd - 05/Aug/09 with Plas y Brenin (Dave Evans)

Only worthwhile for the first pitch. It's like ice climbing without the ice or crampons or ice axes.
ebf - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Paul Stephenson+Tim Fryer

davidwright - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Toby

eastfinchley pete - 2nd - 17/Apr/09 with Mark and Cath

only pitch 1
sonnenstern - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Carlene Hill

Dom Whillans - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with a.crook

Carly - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with sophie

A Crook - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Dom Stockton

en7edh - Lead - 2009

Tough lead with wet slab at the crux. Good pro though.
steven - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/08 with Simon Dawson

Thought this was a V. Diff. but decided half way up it was too hard for a V. Diff. so double checked and turned out to be a HVS (but an easy one)
Gandalf - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Becky Weller

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

Hidden - Lead - Nov/07

spum - Lead β - 20/Oct/07 with jen

Hmmmm nice polish on the first pitch, felt like laybacking on a surface of ice!
Eccentric - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Andy Foster

ritchierich - AltLd O/S - Aug/07 with Phil Taggart

Climbed 2nd and 3rd pitches only. Used for Oberon for the 1st pitch owing to the awful start of Y Broga.
tonymw - 2nd - 29/May/07 with Gary Smith

Howling first pitch due to gopping amounts of polish.
Zoomer - AltLd - 11/May/07 with Andy Nelson

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/07

Very shinny first pitch (not sure if it's polish or just the rock), almost came to grief as holds etc where soaked on 1st pitch!!
Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/07 with Tom

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Mar/07

tumbling wizard - Lead - Mar/07

irish paul - Lead - 17/Nov/06 with Andy F

Hidden - Solo - 15/Oct/06

zcapxa5 - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/06 with Dave Ross

Hidden - Solo rpt - 17/Aug/06

Difficult polished initial slab, after that, great rock, good situations!
edmitchell - AltLd dog - 10/Jun/06 with kai ren

Hidden - AltLd dog - 10/Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/06

dan gibson - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2006

mikelaing - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/05

Chesh - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Lawrence

abercolin - AltLd - May/05 with Simon Palmer

failed leading a wet first pitch but did the rest OK
JamieAyres - Lead dnf - Sep/04 with Nick Ingram

3 Names - AltLd - Aug/04 with Richard Bartlet

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/04 with Nick DMM

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 09/May/04 with Scott Titt, Andy March

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Oct/03

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 2003

akhughes - Lead - 2003

Hidden - Lead - 2002

Roget - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/01 with jon

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/00 with James Gregory

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 25/Mar/00 with Keith Turton

dicky79 - 2nd O/S - 2000 with Eddie

Marti999 - AltLd - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

DubyaJamesDubya - 2000

Hidden - TR - 15/Oct/98

Hammy - AltLd - 01/Aug/98

1st pitch with elaine
auld al - Lead O/S - Sep/95

Budge - Lead dog - 1995 with Ceri Jones

nai - AltLd - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

Pete Nugent - 26/Jul/92 with John Bennison

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jun/92

tlr - AltLd - 23/Jul/91 with Pom

adi bryant - AltLd O/S - 05/May/91 with Phil

andrew300169 - AltLd - 1991 with Pom

Hidden - Lead - 11/Aug/90

Babika - Lead - Jul/90 with Mark Jones

mattnuttall - Lead - Apr/90 with Alan Holden

DDDD - 1990

Nick Rundall - 2nd O/S - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/89

SPD224 - AltLd - 1989

babymoac - Lead - 05/Jun/88 with kevin B

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Feb/88

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Feb/88

Hidden - Lead - 1988

Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/87

ewar woowar - 1987

Hidden - May/86

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/86 with pete roberts

Neil R - Lead - 11/May/85 with Richard W

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - AltLd - 1985

Melok - AltLd - 1985

nigehughes - AltLd - Sep/84 with Nige Holding

jasper11 - 1984

andy gittins - 1982

Hammy - Lead - 05/Dec/81 with Andy Murphy

mark-abz - Lead - 29/Sep/81 with Andy W

Andy Fielding - 2nd - 15/Sep/81 with Mike Gilbert

Hidden - 1981

RichardMc - Lead - 14/Jun/80 with Tony Fraser

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/80

RichardMc - AltLd - 27/Apr/80 with Dave Langmead

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Apr/80

Ian Clare - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1980

Desperate, polished
rogerskews - 2nd - 11/Mar/78 with Martin Coward

Hidden - 1978

Pedro50 - AltLd - 27/Mar/77 with Steve White

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 28/Jan/77

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1977 with Will Walker

Done several times in the dim and distant: likely these partners, and likly from late 70s on.
jmr - Lead - 1976 with Tim Murray, Bob Howard

pneame - May/75

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Mike Owen - 1975 with John Roberts

tapley - Lead - 13/Jul/74 with Alison Tapley

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 12/Apr/74

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Apr/74

Andy Say - Lead - 1973

RichardMc - AltLd - 04/Jan/72 with Roger Everett

greenbuoy - AltLd - 13/Aug/71 with Bob ?

Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 19/Jul/71 with Tim James

RichardMc - Lead - 17/Jan/71 with Dave Francis

mikej - AltLd - 18/Oct/70 with Geoff Williams

LMC trip. Very pleased to lead pitch 1.
eroica64 - Lead - 07/Mar/70

rob from scotland - Lead - 1970

Excellent first pitch (if you like bags of pro and lots of jamming), pretty unmemorable after that
lump'o'lead - 1970

Tom V - 1970

mikej - Lead dnf - 16/Mar/69 with E

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/68 with Richard Wicks

David Smith - 1963

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 103
hard E10 of 35
E10 of 35
easy E11 of 35
hard HVS4 of 35
HVS25 of 35
easy HVS3 of 35
hard VS2 of 35
VS0 of 35
easy VS0 of 35
hard 5b0 of 36
5b0 of 36
easy 5b1 of 36
hard 5a18 of 36
5a15 of 36
easy 5a2 of 36
hard 4c0 of 36
4c0 of 36
easy 4c0 of 36
3 Stars0 of 32
2 Stars8 of 32
1 Star19 of 32
0 Stars5 of 32
Bag of .....0 of 32
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 252 (0.8%)
Lead70 of 252 (27.8%)
Followed31 of 252 (12.3%)
Toproped3 of 252 (1.2%)
Alt Leads101 of 252 (40.1%)
Unknown45 of 252 (17.9%)

'Climbed'144 of 252 (57.1%)
clean O/S82 of 252 (32.5%)
clean β3 of 252 (1.2%)
clean rpt4 of 252 (1.6%)
clean RP2 of 252 (0.8%)
dogged10 of 252 (4.0%)
dnf7 of 252 (2.8%)