UKC Logbook - 'Y Broga'

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Gwynedd > Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog) >

Y Broga

HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Geireagle

O Brother >>

An extra-polished first pitch leads to more-open climbing above. Start by the slab below the big diamond-shaped wall. 1) 5a, 15m. The corner is slippery and awkward - big gear needed. Belay on a ledge. 2) 4b, 15m. Climb a crack to a ledge, then move up to another ledge. A short groove leads to a tree belay. 3) 4c, 15m. Climb the slab until tricky moves lead up left to gain the arete. This leads to the top. © ROCKFAX
Welsh for 'The Frog'

Photo: y Broga © David Jones
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 197 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

I lead P1
jezb1 - AltLd - 05/Apr/13

Hidden - 05/Apr/13

Dizz - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with David B

Tom Thorne - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/13 with Gareth Borthwick

SimonvanDam - AltLd - 23/Feb/13 with Matt Roberts

danJBA - AltLd - 23/Feb/13 with Simon, Matt Roberts

roberts1234567890 - AltLd - 23/Feb/13 with dan abbatt, Simon Van Dam

Hidden - 2013

alpinebutterfly - 22/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/12

Ray Sparks - 2nd - 04/Aug/12

Didn't like the arete!
ejellard - 2nd β - 03/Aug/12

super polished first pitch!
toasted - AltLd - 29/Jul/12 with Paul Greenhow, Ian Atkins

whitehouse_rhys - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Rob law

ronmcdonald - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/12 with Dad

Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/12

Seconded the first 5A pitch, finished up Oberon as I strayed too far right of the 2nd Pitch and couldn't find a way back. (basically jibbed out)
dionhughes - AltLd dnf - 29/May/12 with Gerwyn

Led first pitch on sight with commentary from Dave. Abbed off before easier final pitches. Polished to a fine sheen. Next time, take Mongo the No.4 Camalot!
Pete_Frost - Lead β - 26/May/12 with Dave Pearce

Slip on 1st pitch due to stupidity
Jim Walton - AltLd dog - 13/May/12 with Sam Harris

SamuelHarris - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with Jim Walton

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/12

mhawk - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Kai Ren Ong

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Mar/12

henry francis - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12

P2. Wet first pitch, a good lead by Henry.
JezH - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Henry Francis

Hidden - 2012

Callum Anderson - 2012

Hidden - 2012

AntWallace - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/11

Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Dan Vallin, Al Smith

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Aug/11

Lawrie Brand - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/11 with Sarah Laing

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/11

Lead the first and Third pitches. Great climbing throughout. the third pitch is a real corker and feels very exposed and great fun. Well done to Ben for leading the second pitch as his first outdoor trad lead.
matthomas79 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/11

Led P1 and P3, how polished does the start want to be, bit racey through the first pitch, top pitch is awsome on real rough rock
stvredmond - AltLd - 05/Jun/11 with Sean mercer

leroybrown - AltLd O/S - Jun/11 with Ian W

keithpeck - AltLd O/S - 29/May/11 with Rory Southworth

2nd first pitch and led the last two.
Rory Southworth - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11

Hidden - AltLd - 27/May/11

Michael Allday - Lead O/S - May/11 with rodney greenfield

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

alias dave - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Sam.EB

Pitch one. wet and quite hard. Dan lead the 2nd and third. nowt special
willoates - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Dan Lane

P2+3. I went off route and took a different, harder top two pitches.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Will Oates

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Apr/11

Did pitches 1 and 2 after Vinny's appetite deminished rather repidly halfway up the first pitch.Super polished so nothing positive at all for your feet.
ritchierich - AltLd rpt - 28/Mar/11 with Vinny

lowered off half way up first pitch after a near savage owl attack on Oakover lost my mojo :) twit twoo
vinspin - AltLd dnf - 28/Mar/11 with ritchie

led third pitch
vinspin - 2nd rpt - 28/Mar/11 with ritchie

Jon lead the hard 1st pitch and Merlin final pitch. I took the exposed 4c pitch.
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Jon Thompson

jon thompson27 - AltLd - 13/Mar/11 with Alex Thompson

Tom Livingstone - Lead - 07/Mar/11 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - 2011

Tim Sparrow - 2011

bsmedz - 2011

Hidden - 2011

P2
The Green Giant - AltLd O/S - 21/Nov/10 with Dan with the van

dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 21/Nov/10 with AO

lead the first and last pitch.. the first is certainly interesting and quite polished
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Rob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10

Seconded first and third pitch. Led second pitch.
kim.mulji - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Jason

Led P1 and P3. Kim P2. We got a little off route somewhere on P2 and so P3 went up in the wrong spot. But P1 (the HVS pitch) was fine.
kleinej - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Kim M

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jul/10

1st pitch only. Good foot work helps.
Keith Jones - Lead - 18/Jun/10 with David

hedgehog77 - AltLd - 15/Jun/10 with ratty

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/10

r.greaves - AltLd - 06/Jun/10 with Nat

Hidden - Jun/10

Dammit! wimped out on on the slippery slab & took a rest. Not that bad in the end but all feels rather insecure.
Different Steve - Lead dog - 02/May/10 with Ian Ackerley

tomosb - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/10 with Darren Thompson

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Mar/10

o brother variation
beeson_paul - AltLd - 07/Mar/10

o brother variation (VS)
beeson_paul - AltLd - 07/Mar/10

pie_eater_pete - AltLd O/S - Feb/10 with ben smedley

MarkDavies36 - AltLd - 2010 with Jill Singleton/Davies, Corin Burdon

simeclimb68 - 2010

DuckingFesperate - 2010

Hidden - 2010

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09

Hidden - TR - 02/Oct/09

Sooo polished but really enjoyed it! Great laybacking up that first pitch. Only first pitch done, ran out of time
Helen23 - 2nd - 05/Aug/09 with Plas y Brenin (Dave Evans)

Only worthwhile for the first pitch. It's like ice climbing without the ice or crampons or ice axes.
ebf - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Paul Stephenson+Tim Fryer

davidwright - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Toby

eastfinchley pete - 2nd - 17/Apr/09 with Mark and Cath

only pitch 1
sonnenstern - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Carlene Hill

Dom Whillans - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with a.crook

Carly - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with sophie

A Crook - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Dom Stockton

en7edh - Lead - 2009

Tough lead with wet slab at the crux. Good pro though.
steven - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/08 with Simon Dawson

Thought this was a V. Diff. but decided half way up it was too hard for a V. Diff. so double checked and turned out to be a HVS (but an easy one)
Gandalf - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Becky Weller

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

Hidden - Lead - Nov/07

spum - Lead β - 20/Oct/07 with jen

Hmmmm nice polish on the first pitch, felt like laybacking on a surface of ice!
Eccentric - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Andy Foster

ritchierich - AltLd O/S - Aug/07 with Phil Taggart

Climbed 2nd and 3rd pitches only. Used for Oberon for the 1st pitch owing to the awful start of Y Broga.
tonymw - 2nd - 29/May/07 with Gary Smith

Howling first pitch due to gopping amounts of polish.
Zoomer - AltLd - 11/May/07 with Andy Nelson

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/07

Very shinny first pitch (not sure if it's polish or just the rock), almost came to grief as holds etc where soaked on 1st pitch!!
Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/07 with Tom

Tom Thorne - 2nd - 17/Mar/07 with Dan Woolnough

tumbling wizard - Lead - Mar/07

irish paul - Lead - 17/Nov/06 with Andy F

Hidden - Solo - 15/Oct/06

zcapxa5 - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/06 with Dave Ross

Hidden - Solo rpt - 17/Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd dog - 10/Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/06

fijibaby - 2nd - May/06

dan gibson - 2006

Hidden - 2006

mikelaing - 2006