Rockfax Description
A good route that traces a rightward-trending line to the left edge of the Broken Dreams roof. The start is powerful, the middle delicate and the finish absorbing! © Rockfax

FA Gary Gibson, John Codling 21.5.88 21/May/1988

Ticklists: Dinbren 7's.

Luke Owens 14/Jun Lead dog

10th session and the moves between the 1st and 2nd bolt don't seem to be getting any easier... Just not strong enough at the moment, time to move on I think.

munch88 09/Jun TR dog

Done all the moves ready for RP

Luke Owens 09/Jun Lead dog

First session this year. Re-worked the moves, linked from the 2nd bolt to the top in a oner. Only had time for 2 quick working goes. Feels more doable than last year with some better foot beta at the start.

nige 13/May Lead RP
with adam ellwood
Mat Welsh ?/May Lead RP

Ticked it fifth go, seemed a bit soft for 7c but really good climbing all the way.

with Warren
Luke Owens 23/Sep/14 Lead dog

Did some links on the hard bit trying to warm up. Had a redpoint and just couldn't get warm enough to put a proper effort in.

Luke Owens 18/Sep/14 Lead dog

Mega greasy for the time of year. Better beta sorted for crux and climbed through the awkward middle section clipping the 3rd bolt on lead.

Mark Riley 31/Jul/14 Lead RP

Good bouldery route, feels unlikely till you unlock the sequence.

Mattlamb90 31/Jul/14 Lead dog

Got on the sharp end,cruised to 3rd bolt and then couldnt get it clipped. Mark then smashed it in!

Mattlamb90 29/Jul/14 TR dog

All moves done, rp next

with Luke
Mattlamb90 23/Jul/14 TR dog

Put the clips in and had a quick burn, feels doable

with Luke
Luke Owens 20/Jul/14 Lead dog

Very short session, just got reacquainted, absolutely freezing in the fading light. Couldn't stay warm enough, so did some links.

Luke Owens 24/Jun/14 Lead dog

Did some big links on lead, clipping the 3rd bolt feels like the crux now! Greasy conditions with no breeze and lack of skin meant the redpoints will have to wait.

Luke Owens 23/Jun/14 Lead dog

Better beta sorted for crux. Massive link from between the 1st and 2nd clip to the top. All clipping positions sorted.

Luke Owens 19/Jun/14 Lead dog

In 3 sections, floor to 2nd bolt. Then below 2nd bolt to 4th bolt 2 finger pocket and then from the pocket to the top. Need to finger out best place to clip the 3rd bolt then it's redpoint time!

anguskille 17/Jun/14 Lead RP

not often you get away with such scrappy climbing at Dinbren! first RP attempt after two top-ropes

with Rob
Luke Owens 17/Jun/14 Lead dog

Got a flowing sequence sorted and located some other holds. Felt greasy but did all the moves. Did a good link from slopey crimp to the fat slopey pinch/sidepull.

Luke Owens 13/Jun/14 Lead dog

Inspiring route! Did all the moves pretty quick, just need to sort some foot placements. It's on!

Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead RP
Adam Booth 18/Aug/13 Lead RP

Finally! Classic dinbren - taken me ages to work it out, and then it felt ok!

davidliu 18/Aug/13 Lead RP

2nd RP, unexpected tick today - thanks to Adam for the beta! Very pleased.

Adam Booth 09/Aug/13 Lead dog

Felt much more do-able than last year. By the time I'd figured it out I was too knackered! Hopefully get it soon...

Hidden 24/Aug/12 TR dog
Adam Booth 24/Aug/12 TR dnf

Jesus, what the hell are you supposed to do in the middle?!

andy farnell 20/May/12 Lead RP

Good technical climbing on good rock, good 7c.

with Toby Dunn, John Maskell
Toby Dunn 20/May/12 Lead RP

second redpoint.

with Andy F
spidey 20/May/12 Lead RP
with luke clarke
zero six ?/May/12 Lead RP

Some lovely flowing moves. One sesh, 3rd redders. Getting fitter..

Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead
Ed Booth 09/Nov/09 Lead RP

First real sport 7c. Get in. Got clips in, chalked some holds. First redpoint attempt, managed to get and get 3rd bolt clipped despite not having practised where to clip, but fell off next to it. Blasted it on second redpoint and it felt enjoyable and not to bad. Encouragingly felt like i could climb alot harder. Cheers will for belay.

with Will N
Ed Booth 07/Oct/09 TR dog

Managed in 3 sections really. Should be able to start red point attempts next session! Cool winter proj and I'm sure i can do it.

Lee Proctor ??/2009 Lead
ksjs 12/Jul/08 Lead dog

hard to work out moves but once you get them theyre ok. moving right at 2nd bolt is though still to be sorted...

with mark
Hidden 09/May/06 Lead RP
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
FreddieSmith, macgowand, Mattlamb90, guyblackwood
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set