Clwyd > Dinbren Crags >
 
I Punched Judy First*** 7b+

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[I Punched Judy, 3 kb]15m. A powerful start, tenuous middle section and difficult finish up the wide crack gives this route bags of character, lower-off above the upper bulge. © ROCKFAX
FA Gary Gibson, John Codling 8.7.87 08/Jul/1987

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List, Dinbren 7's.

Photo: I Punched Judy © dave_rose
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 70 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Got it on 3rd redpoint today, very sustained for what a relatively short route with only 5 bolts.
MikeYouCanClimb - Lead RP - 31/Jul/14 with Matthew

Lead to 4th bolt on Wednesday and ran out of steam, today it seemed no problem as moves were wired.
matt30987 - Lead rpt - 27/Jul/14 with Dad

Top quality route. Sustained power enduro. Dinbren is awesome
Tomar - Lead RP - 20/Apr/14 with "Brosky"

Heart breakingly close on 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th RP (fell going into the crack). Had to really dig deep with sore skin and wasted arms to get this one and it was all the more satisfying for it.
thedoctorisin - Lead RP - 19/Apr/14 with chris scutt

chrisscutt - Lead RP - 19/Apr/14 with tomar, oly

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Apr/14

Elegant and powerful moves - yet another superb Dinbren route.
Stig - Lead RP - 20/Sep/13 with Luke

Stig - Lead dog - 13/Sep/13 with james oswald

3 yrs almost to day since last on it. Got all the moves (just)
Stig - Lead dog - 28/Aug/13 with Simon

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Aug/13

First 7b+, so psyched! Video: http://vimeo.com/72119456
Luke Owens - Lead RP - 09/Aug/13 with Ryan "Spidey" Mcconnell

Massive progress, had 3 redpoints and fell off getting into the top crack one move from victory!
Luke Owens - Lead dog - 06/Aug/13 with Ally Smith, Matt Lamb

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Aug/13

New beta from Ally got me to a new high point by the 3rd bolt and have a new sequence for the crux. Bridged out left foot! It's on!
Luke Owens - Lead dog - 01/Aug/13 with Ally Smith, Luke Clarke

4th Session, powered out by the third bolt. Finding the moves in isolation easier.
Luke Owens - Lead dog - 03/Jul/13 with Matt Lamb

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Jun/13

5th RP - First 7b+
Mattlamb90 - Lead RP - 26/Jun/13 with Luke Owens, Ben

New beta, did some bigger links. It's on!
Luke Owens - Lead dog - 26/Jun/13 with Matt Lamb

Had 2 Red Points tonight. Pumped off both times entering the top crack. Heartbroken
Mattlamb90 - Lead dog - 19/Jun/13 with Luke Owens

2nd session, not so good!
Luke Owens - Lead dog - 19/Jun/13 with Matt Lamb

Worked into 2 half
Mattlamb90 - TR dog - 04/Jun/13 with Luke Owens

Just about managed all the moves, managed a small link from the jug to the chains. Not my style at all, so psyched to stick at it! Felt miles harder than Barrance for me! Great route.
Luke Owens - TR dog - 04/Jun/13 with Matt Lamb

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/May/13

esther - Lead - May/13

2nd go. Sooo nearly O/S. Dropped it going to the jug at the bottom of the crack with a heinous sequence (6b slap). Found a crimp out right making it 5c.
Alex Mason - Lead RP - 24/Apr/13 with Jon Ratcliffe

Nice climbing, did all of the moves.
drysori - TR - 23/Jul/12 with Dunc

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/May/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/May/12

Hidden - 24/Mar/12

keefe - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11

NickHobbs - Lead RP - 13/Jul/11 with Martin Cleaver

Adam Booth - Lead RP - 01/Jul/11

Adam Booth - TR RP - 19/Jun/11 with Ed Booth

A dogged go to warm up and then in one.
Ed Booth - TR rpt - 18/Jun/11

Next time!
Adam Booth - TR dog - 03/Jun/11 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - TR rpt - 03/Jun/11

davidliu - Lead RP - 29/May/11 with Martin Cleaver

tedj234 - Lead RP - 14/May/11 with davidliu

Martin Cleaver - Lead RP - 04/May/11 with Nick, rob

Peter Dickinson - Lead - May/11 with Mike Hart

3rd go.
gregoritos - Lead RP - 25/Sep/10

Stig - Lead dog - 27/Aug/10 with Goi

Great route. Boulderly start, awkward middle and a bunched finish into the crack.
goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 08/Aug/10 with James Rees

Mark Riley - Lead RP - 03/Jul/10 with The Irish Crowd

love that move to the Jug
mux - Lead RP - 25/May/10 with frost

daveayton - Lead RP - May/10 with Vince, C Harney

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Mar/10

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with Shane

Tried onsight, got up to touching the big flake but couldn't really make the powerful pull up so bolt to bolted it and then worked a few sequences and then led it first red point. Nice to do the route quickly, probably only 7b. Great route.
Ed Booth - Lead RP - 04/Apr/09 with Tim Evans

Lee Proctor - Lead - 2009

switch - Lead RP - 01/Nov/08

ksjs - Lead dog - 08/Jul/08 with john

ksjs - TR dog - 08/Jul/08 with john

surprised to get this as was tired; high right foot key at the start. a good climb, not much harder than Walking With Barrence
ksjs - Lead RP - 08/Jul/08 with john

clips in, that move to get the jug is cool
ksjs - Lead dog - 30/Jun/08 with john

ksjs - Lead dog - 30/Jun/08 with john

at last, my first 7b+, a real battle too :) Great route.
guyblackwood - Lead RP - 22/Sep/07 with Lee

bigie bob - Lead RP - 01/Aug/07

2nd go
IOAN D - Lead RP - 28/Jul/07 with garry

guyblackwood - TR dog - 31/Mar/07 with Jon and Ricardo

lx - Lead - 14/Oct/06 with fat boy

nige - Lead - Jun/06 with ewan mccallum mark hounslea

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/May/06

First red-point
Lee Proctor - Lead rpt - 29/Jan/06 with Paul Bolger

Hidden - Lead RP - 2005

Shaved Atom - Lead RP - 2005

spidey - Lead RP - 27/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead RP - 2003

Mark Riley - TR dog - Sep/02

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, cjd91, macgowand, drcorbasisgod, Jakey4060

Voting
Total votes cast 54
hard 7c0 of 28
7c0 of 28
easy 7c0 of 28
hard 7b+1 of 28
7b+17 of 28
easy 7b+4 of 28
hard 7b6 of 28
7b0 of 28
easy 7b0 of 28
3 Stars12 of 26
2 Stars14 of 26
1 Star0 of 26
0 Stars0 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
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Style of ascent

Lead59 of 70 (84.3%)
Toproped10 of 70 (14.3%)
Unknown1 of 70 (1.4%)

'Climbed'7 of 70 (10.0%)
clean O/S2 of 70 (2.9%)
clean rpt5 of 70 (7.1%)
clean RP35 of 70 (50.0%)
dogged21 of 70 (30.0%)