Rockfax Description
A classic of the crag. Pull onto the wall and trend leftwards before making a move right to the base of a vague groove. Climb the groove to reach a rounded break and then perform the mother of all rockovers to attain a standing position in the break. Tiptoe right and finish up a flake. © Rockfax

FA Stuart Cathcart, P.Waters, D.Barker 9.83 Sep/1983

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List.

Hidden 25/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep 2nd
najki_2000 20/Sep Lead dnf

Ok to get my foot up and rockover however couldn't switch to the palming and get stood up

with Lawrence, Dave Rose
Laurence Everitt 20/Sep Lead dog
Jack Delaney 01/Aug Lead RP
with Becky Good
FreddieSmith 31/Jul Lead rpt
Ed Booth 30/Jun Lead rpt
with Anna Pugh
spalice 12/Jun Lead RP

F*** YEAH!!!!!

with danny griffith
FreddieSmith 10/Jun Lead RP
spalice 10/Jun Lead dog

Next time it will go!!!!!!!! (...or maybe the time after.......)

morganator 07/Jun Lead RP
with John Roberts
Hidden 06/Jun Lead G/U
Hidden 06/Jun TR dnf
quiffhanger 01/May Lead RP

Thought it had been bolted. So came down after falling of the crux to get some nuts. Did second go but forgot the nuts again so ran it out. Pretty special effort to twice forget to take any gear on a trad climb.

danJBA 16/Feb/14 Lead dog
with Matthew Larden, Dan Brockwell
Chubbard 29/Sep/13 Lead dnf

No idea how to do then mantle

with C Godfrey
Mattlamb90 08/Aug/13 Lead RP

Hard move!

with ChrisB, Dan, Luke
mark20 30/Jun/13 Lead G/U

Hard crux

Alex Mason 24/Apr/13 Lead

Flew up to the crux then got duff (misremembered) beta to traverse right along the break and mantle. Inevitably fell off. Got straight back on and made the crux ok.

Joughton 26/Aug/12 Lead dog

Took three goes to get the crux mantel, on the first a tiny flake broke off on me, putting me off balance. On the second I didn't commit enough, but on the third it was just right. Shame that move's so hard though, the rest of the route was very pleasant.

Luke Owens 25/Jun/12 Lead dog

Awesome crux move. Flashed up to this then took a couple of goes to do "the" move. Really unique! It now has 3 bolts and feels more like a sport route. Some one should just add another bolt at the top and it would be a cracking 7a.

spidey 25/Jun/12 Lead RP
with luke owens
markalmack 09/Jun/12 Lead dnf

couldn't do the mantle...

GazzerM54 ??/2012 -
kingholmesy ??/2012 Lead dog

What a heartbreaker of a move!

with Andy S
MikeYouCanClimb 01/Oct/11 Lead rpt

The tricky to place wires after the crux are even more tricky since I pulled off the handhold trying to place them. I took a fall and reclimbed, the grade is not affected.

with Matthew
keefe 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 28/Aug/11 -
with keefe
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead β
belay bunny turned bad 14/Aug/11 Lead β
with loundsy
rockjedi 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Keith Sharples, Julian Heath
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 30/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Joe Bertalot
thrutch 22/Oct/10 Lead RP
with Sven
Mark Riley 26/Sep/10 Lead RP
gregoritos 25/Sep/10 Lead β


Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead dog
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 27/Apr/10 Lead rpt
phil64 21/Mar/10 Lead

hard for tall and weak!

mattyork2 27/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Johnny Richard
Rich Kirby 27/Aug/09 2nd rpt
with Kev
Hidden ?/Jun/09 -
Brian Rodgers 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Nice, but it did feel more like a sports route.

with Ian Wyatt
bronsonite 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Lizzie Bowler
Hidden 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
mattyork2 01/Mar/09 Lead dog

Shit. Tried really hard on the onsight and thought I might have it as I rocked up and on...failed and another two goes later it was home time. Another great day out- super weekend!

with James Gray and Pete Harrison
farmus21 01/Mar/09 Lead dog

awesome...silly mistakes

with Matt Maynard Pete Harrison
galpinos 03/Jan/09 Lead dog

Fell off at rock-over crux. Got the move second go. Need to go back and clean it! F7a

with Ben
Lee Proctor ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 27/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Cowflinger 13/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Dai Morris
Hidden 10/Jun/08 Lead RP
Hidden 11/May/08 -
dts 11/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead dog
Somerset swede basher 03/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Nicholson
dicky79 06/Jan/08 TR dog
with Pete
bigie bob 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 20/May/07 Lead

One rest - nobber!!!!! Fukin good though. should have done it clean.

with Roel Driesen
John Marsland 28/Apr/07 2nd dog

Only rested at crux.

with Goi
goi.ashmore 27/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with John Marsland
guyblackwood 05/Feb/07 TR dog
with Ali and Lee
guyblackwood 05/Nov/06 Lead dog

fell off- never mind- don't normally do this grade for a warm up

with Ricardo,
feilx 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with keith
dannyboy83 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S
nige ?/May/06 Lead
with mark hounslea
guyblackwood 14/Apr/06 Lead RP

Awesome! My hardest lead to date by far!

with Gentiane
IOAN D 18/Feb/06 Lead dnf
with Mills
Lee Proctor 22/Jan/06 Lead rpt
with Paul Bolger
guyblackwood 25/Dec/05 TR

2nd attempt.

with Lee led
Mark Riley ?/Mar/05 Lead dog
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Ant
Hidden 27/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2000 Lead
Shaved Atom ??/1999 Lead O/S
Roget 25/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
Mike Owen 25/Sep/86 -
with Ian McMullan
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, spalice, anguskille, AB744, Hidden, drcorbasisgod, deklan, fennerz, ColinD
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set