Rockfax Description
The fierce finger-crack sees more ascents at A1 than at E1!
Torque your way up the lower crack on the right of the buttress. From the ledge take the right-hand crack in the upper wall to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: 50 cracks to Squamish, AMC Uni Ticklist, WideBoyz Crack School.

robertmctague 18/Oct Lead O/S

Harder than E1, more like solid E2

with Theo
Dave Cale 30/Aug Lead G/U
with Craig
Challpike 17/Aug TR
JakeMcConnell 17/Aug TR O/S
Hidden 08/Aug Lead RP
Hidden 31/Jul TR O/S
rushy11111918 31/Jul TR
with David
TGreen 18/Jul Lead O/S
Rosie Henstock 18/Jul 2nd O/S
birks3746 ?/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun TR
fuzzysheep01 06/Jun Lead dog
Hidden 06/Jun 2nd
Michael Bonallie 09/May TR O/S
Mario Grabinski 02/May Lead RP
with Ryszard Malas
Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
centurion05 ??/2015 Lead O/S
suds_01 ??/2015 -
08nbrierley 22/Sep/14 Lead RP
with charlie
Pete_Frost 08/Sep/14 TR β

Tricky, plenty of ground fall potential here.

Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Aug/14 TR rpt
cameron_hall 27/Jul/14 TR O/S

Too chicken to lead it (this time). Great climb, though, and the upper section is much harder than I was expecting.

with Jody Palmer
will_benfold 27/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Went up a metre or two but then didn't feel up to it; reversed down to the ground.

guy757 07/Jul/14 -
GargoyleFeet ?/Jul/14 TR
with Dave Kerr
spenser 28/Jun/14 TR dog

Flew up this with a tight rope through the crux lower section and got persuaded to think about headpointing the route. Tried climbing it with a slack rope and I couldn't quite make the moves work, felt like more of a confidence thing. Landing is pretty good and a bomber nut protects the hard move.

with Tim- LMC, Ross, Shona Jones
Hidden 14/May/14 TR dnf
Hidden 20/Apr/14 2nd
mtempest 20/Apr/14 Lead
Steve Waters, Mynydd 20/Apr/14 2nd

Lower Crux: 5c. Care needed to get the hand sequence correct so that the left hand can get the nice crimp. Upper wall: 5b.

Chazwoz 20/Apr/14 Lead dog

Fell on the first piece of gear twice, third attempt ground up successful!

Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead RP
nesbear 18/Apr/14 2nd dnf

I'll be back

tomwright1509 15/Apr/14 Lead dnf

couldn't quite get the crux but will be back

Sol Armer 15/Apr/14 2nd O/S
RosePearson 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
wixy 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
wixy 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
wixy 15/Mar/14 2nd
mrginna 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Nick
Marti999 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Joshthomas 09/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead rpt
mikespooner ?/Mar/14 Lead O/S
wixy ??/2014 -
Kieran19 ??/2014 2nd O/S
Ewan Russell 24/Nov/13 Solo O/S
with gwen
andrew549 23/Nov/13 2nd rpt
Jack93 10/Nov/13 Lead dnf
chris67 10/Nov/13 TR dog
with Sam
cjb1992 13/Oct/13 TR RP

Really nice upper slab if taken direct without the cracks. Didn't have time to lead - Will be back!

with Andi
Hidden 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Pinguville 01/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with George
ashtond6 25/Aug/13 Lead dnf
climb the peak 13/Aug/13 Lead dog
Tommy Moore 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Proper chuffed: clean E1 6a!

with Chris Jeffries, Alex Law
woody0606 27/Jul/13 TR
fizzicist 27/Jul/13 TR dnf

Hilarious attempt at E1 6a... so could have made it up this on a top rope if hadnt spent my grip getting the first bit wrong...! Made it to the first large diagonal crack for your right hand. Awesome fun!

with Plas Y Brenin
Hidden 30/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead rpt
Joshthomas 26/May/13 TR
vinspin 22/May/13 Lead rpt
rjpritchard 21/May/13 TR RP

will lead one day.

Hidden 16/May/13 Lead
francesanncavanagh 16/May/13 2nd
with Ant Douglas, Craig Fussy Pants Letham
anthonydouglas 16/May/13 2nd

tricky start

Hidden 07/May/13 TR
Gareth T 06/May/13 Lead rpt
with Amber
gingerwolf 05/May/13 TR β
Duncan 88 05/May/13 TR O/S
Aaron.robson94 04/Apr/13 TR

Tricky climb, first half very technical small holds, second half nicer.

Turkey Stephenson 03/Apr/13 TR RP
08nbrierley 03/Apr/13 TR O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/13 TR
CashaJones 02/Apr/13 TR
Samuel Wainwright 30/Mar/13 Lead rpt
with Emma Smith
Hidden 30/Mar/13 TR RP
Hidden 30/Mar/13 2nd O/S
philhilo 03/Mar/13 Lead RP

Couple of false starts working out sequence. Top seemed thin and poor gear and crumbly holds for big pull - nice!

with Helen E
andrew549 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with James
Patrick Hill 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow 17/Feb/13 Lead
with Piers Nesbitt
ianstevens 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
ad111 16/Feb/13 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2013 Lead β
neuromancer 10/Nov/12 TR dnf
HAJ Francis 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with katie
jimmysdead 22/Sep/12 TR rpt

Working on this one for a lead, damn tricky start.

Rampikino 08/Sep/12 Lead
with Mario Grabinski
Mario Grabinski 08/Sep/12 Lead dog

Great climb:) On the first bit put some piece of gear quite happy cos almost fell off needed a rest just forgot sequence, apart this really enjoyed that.

ollie1 09/Jul/12 Lead O/S

great climb, well protected - place an early piece of gear or risk smashing heal like I did

Gareth T 01/Jul/12 Lead RP
with Tim Coe
cherad 04/Jun/12 Lead RP

Def 6a for the short.

with Michelle Henshall
Big Rik 01/Jun/12 2nd dog
UnkArl 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S

My first English 6a lead. Save a bit of something for the top as there is another tricky section just when you think it's in the bag.

with Rik
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 26/May/12 Lead RP

Although the crux is low and reasonably well protected (Maybe hard 5c or easy 6a) the upper part of the route is bold and still technically about 5b in places. I think it felt very bold for E1 5c/6a.

with Pete Milner
Dale ?/May/12 Lead O/S

good route climbed up put the gear in downclimbed then finished the route off. Esay 6a more like 5c

with dave
simonp ?/May/12 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden 05/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/12 Lead RP
DanC1985 01/Apr/12 Lead RP

Started on 'Quatre Fois Direct' till first break, then moved over to the right onto 'Meririonydd'

with Simon G
Hidden 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Sianny 28/Mar/12 TR

SPA training

Wyn Bach 21/Mar/12 TR dnf

Had a good go at it. I'll have to come back.

with Mathew Shaw
Hidden 18/Mar/12 TR RP
ad111 18/Mar/12 TR RP
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead RP
Andy_B39 15/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Matt
BenRyle 08/Mar/12 Lead RP
BenRyle 08/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Slick 13/Nov/11 2nd
Hannes 22/Oct/11 -

certainly not 6a, E1 yes. A ball nut tames the upper section completely. It also makes a nice C1

erbridger 02/Oct/11 TR
Hidden 30/Sep/11 TR
erbridger 28/Sep/11 2nd
will909 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Zoomer 15/Aug/11 TR O/S

Did first half, not 6a, 5c max.

with A Student
Scottish78 15/Aug/11 TR dog
with A Student
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead
tully1987 07/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
MarkRoe 29/May/11 Lead rpt

Top roped it last summer with a holiday group, this was before i knew stuff like how cams worked. Great to come back and lead it! The top section proved a lot harder than i remember!!

with Ben Roe
BRoe 29/May/11 2nd RP
Hidden 22/May/11 Lead β
Gerallt Owain 03/May/11 Lead RP
with Cellan Lewis
Michael Allday ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with rodney greenfield
wolf.leeb 28/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 TR
Hidden 23/Apr/11 TR dnf
AndyFunnell 23/Apr/11 TR dnf
katherinesydney 23/Apr/11 TR RP
Hidden 26/Mar/11 TR dnf
TomMorgan 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Really nice route with a tricky start. All the gear is bomber but well spaced to say the least.

Hidden 05/Mar/11 Lead RP
Geoboy 05/Mar/11 2nd
Will Fuller 05/Mar/11 TR dog
mrstarwarsman 05/Mar/11 2nd O/S

lots of people had a go at start continuously falling at start onto very imbedded nut. retrieving it took me 10 minutes and when it finaly popped out it hit me in the face.

John Tanner 05/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Tough. Stayed slightly to the left side of the crack on the second attempt, which worked better than going up on the right

shaymarriott 04/Mar/11 Lead
thetradlad 26/Feb/11 TR RP


Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
spalice 10/Nov/10 2nd dnf

Found the first bit impossible and prussiked up!

with Jack Pyle, Gwen
Sam Marland 17/Oct/10 Lead RP

Worked the bottom sequence and got it third go. Really nice route! hardest to date

sam820 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Once sequence is sussed moves are not so hard. Make sure your shoes have good edges.

with Noe
maffujones 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
marky65 11/Oct/10 Solo O/S
freemanTom 10/Oct/10 Lead dog

Frigged to hell. Which was not unexpected. Top half far more sporting than I expected or wanted with the lingering pump from the start.

with Andy & Pete
iksander 10/Oct/10 2nd RP

Took a couple of attempts to sus out bottom finger crack while trying to clean well lodged gear! Finally managed without pulling on gear...

willoates 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

i found this really quite hard

alexanderjwatts 28/Sep/10 TR
Hidden 21/Sep/10 TR RP
groovy_nut 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Hard fingery start, then a lovely 5b crack climb in the second half. Brilliant route.

with Frank
Andy Butler 02/Sep/10 Lead dog
beesleys 02/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Abevan 29/Aug/10 2nd
with Dan Ashfield
mick1jones 22/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Claire Duffield, Stuart Day
SGD 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S

6a??? Good route, contrasting sections

B-bop 18/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Olly, Jake
mark20 14/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead rpt
John Kettle ?/Aug/10 Lead
MarkRoe ?/Aug/10 TR RP

I was on an activites camp when i top roped it. This was one of the routes that persuaded me to spend less time in the indoor walls and buy a rack!

Ows ?/Jul/10 Lead
ritchierich 21/Jun/10 2nd rpt
vinspin 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Hard start! The rest of route was easy enough nice tick!

with ritchie
Hidden 21/Jun/10 TR
ritchierich 11/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Nice route and keeps on coming with the upper section,however nice ledge at halfway for a rest.

ritchierich 11/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Foot slipped placing wire in first section,bang went the onsight :(

Gerallt Owain 10/Jun/10 TR RP
stevechaps1 10/Jun/10 TR
Tom87 31/May/10 TR dog
with Marc
chri55ie 31/May/10 TR
with Ronnie Jones, Sue whittle
Marc-G 31/May/10 TR RP

A few goes needed at start, didn't do correct top half

with CharlieJ
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Lunar25 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
rovers777 28/Apr/10 Lead RP
r_findlay 22/Apr/10 TR RP
Hidden 21/Apr/10 TR
titchbach ?/Apr/10 2nd
Alexandre Buisse 28/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Had to downclimb a fair few times before nailing the start. Direct finish felt a bit hairy. Very fun.

with John Hopkins
r.greaves 06/Mar/10 2nd
with steve coughlan
Hidden 01/Mar/10 Lead O/S
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead G/U
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd dog
thecurlyone 17/Oct/09 TR RP
Hidden 16/Oct/09 TR O/S
james.f.williamson 04/Oct/09 Lead
jesscooney 04/Oct/09 2nd dog
amthalmann 04/Oct/09 2nd RP
LITTLE SAM ?/Oct/09 Lead

my first E1 and fourth lead, really enjoyed it.

with Phil Wilkinson
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead
Glyn 02/Aug/09 Lead dog

Foot slipped on the crux

with Jade
Steve Hill 12/Jul/09 TR dog
simoncfr ?/Jul/09 TR RP
with Steffi Orke
Lil'Lou 08/Jun/09 TR dnf

Gave the crack my best shot. Note to self. Try harder next time.

with Nigel
smallerrich 24/May/09 Lead O/S

Did the direct finish, awesome. I lost quite a bit of finger flesh on this route - if anyone finds it, please email me to arrange a return..

with Swain16
Hidden 25/Apr/09 -
snowblader 13/Apr/09 2nd dog
with Ru Campion
climbinmunkey 11/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Tried this late in the day and quickly realised I was too tired to get the initial crack. Will be back!

with Helen
Noodles 24/Feb/09 Lead

Hairy start. Finished up Quatre Foris Direct. Will be back to finish it off correctly.

nadeem 12/Feb/09 Lead RP
with Aaron Crawley
mr mills 03/Jan/09 Lead
with joe chorley
Sally Lisle ??/2009 -
embob 29/Sep/08 TR dnf
with Ollie
tontopink 31/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Twisty 24/Jul/08 TR O/S
thompson1000 16/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/08 TR
Hidden 20/May/08 2nd
AntWallace ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Chris and Andy
Hidden 20/Apr/08 TR
Hidden 20/Apr/08 TR
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Flax 20/Dec/07 Lead dog

Took a couple of tries to get the crux

with Alex Borreson
MikeT ?/Jun/07 Solo rpt
HamishD 27/May/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Thorne (did not climb)
Hidden 25/May/07 2nd
Jamie Light 08/Apr/07 TR O/S
with Steve Jolly
Jamie Light 08/Apr/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/Apr/07 Lead
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/07 Lead
climber sim ??/2007 -
01wills ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S

good climb this second e1

with luke williams
leon ?/May/06 TR O/S

someone already had a top rope on it so i took up the offer (sorry god but we where about to leave so it was my last chance at a climb. please don't send me to hell!!!). i found the climb quite easy and rekon it is probably 5c for those above 5'10

PWEI_fan 21/Apr/06 Lead O/S

awesome boulder problem at bottom then eases as you get higher!

with Cem
robman 01/Apr/06 Lead dog

tricky start, would like to try again n clean. easy finish.

with Charlotte Horn
tomB ?/Apr/06 2nd dog
sgl0jd ?/Apr/06 Lead
with Tom Devas
IOAN D 18/Mar/06 Lead O/S


with Mills
Sam and will ?/Mar/06 TR O/S
Oddjob 19/Nov/05 2nd O/S
with Jez
Brown 23/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Dan 85 01/Jul/05 Lead RP
with Sarah
Mark Handford 07/May/05 Lead O/S

Nice moves at the start,borderline 5c/6a start, after that it felt like VS ground.

with shan rees roberts
Andy Clarke 28/Mar/05 Lead dog

A fair bit of dangling while I worked out the crux.

with DaveR
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S

Good fun E1 6a, well protected boulder problem start (if you find and place the pro that is!) that sees off many an onsight from experienced contenders.

stooby ??/2005 TR O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Brucifer 01/Aug/04 2nd
hedgehog77 18/Jun/04 TR
Hidden 25/May/04 TR RP
tommy82 13/Mar/03 TR
akhughes ?/Sep/02 Lead
Big Rik ??/1995 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, AndrewJamesCherry, ben360, Hidden, Blake, Hidden, Mikey1988, Hidden, Ander, groovy_nut, snowblader, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 52
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set