Rockfax Description
An excellent technical route up the crack system with a tricky move to reach the right-hand edge of the high overlap. © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Cathcart, Tom Curtis 21.3.78 21/Mar/1978

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List, North Wales E Breakthrough.

cymjt 21/Nov 2nd O/S
with David K
David Kay 21/Nov Lead O/S
with cymjt
Martin Haworth 31/Oct Lead O/S
with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 31/Oct 2nd
Ceriii 13/Sep TR RP

Couldn't quite make the reach for the good hold just below the overlap on the first attempt - went back up a second time and despite having INCREDIBLY pumped out arms, I managed it!

with Adam
Spillers 30/Jul Lead O/S

5 bits of bomber gear. 4 huge and a small wire in the top break. Lovely climbing

with Zoe Silsbury
Hidden 23/Jul 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul Lead
FreddieSmith 17/Jul Lead O/S
with Luke Foster
idlefoddie 09/Jun 2nd

Second with Adam revill. Pumpy as nearing the top..

adamre12 08/Jun Lead O/S

Good route, dropped my small wires below the roof So ran it out to the top. Pumpy, but not too polished like the lower grade routes nearby.

Jack2222 21/May Lead O/S
lost.arrow 20/May Lead dog
with Ian Ashworth
Hidden 20/May 2nd rpt
jandyd05 23/Nov/14 TR
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 06/Jun/14 -
with Ian Ashworth
wazzalad20 30/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with anna henshaw, Dave Bennet
daveyb 29/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Nice climbing on good holds.

with waz
Ian Broome 14/Mar/14 2nd β
with Mike
wazzalad20 09/Oct/13 2nd rpt
davebowes 08/Oct/13 Lead O/S

2nd ever trad climb whoop whoop!

with Waz
useful 24/Sep/13 TR dnf

Climbing in the dark! Good fun/recce for my first lead of this...

with John M
Tomt1er 20/Jul/13 TR O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Rob Davies ?/Jun/13 TR

Found a big hold above the overlap this time, much easier

Steve Perry 31/May/13 2nd O/S

Sheer class!

with Declan
deklan 30/May/13 Lead
with steve, trev
lost.arrow 23/May/13 -
Hidden 10/May/13 TR
Hidden 10/May/13 TR
jandyd05 05/May/13 TR rpt
with Chris Dawson
BBEENN 05/Nov/12 TR
jezb1 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Enjoyable, didn't bother placing gear in the final break as big holds lead to the finish, but looked like it would take plenty. The gear before that was super solid. Just the one cheeky/reachy move to the final break.

jandyd05 23/Sep/12 Lead rpt

First time on lead. Very well protected, just dont mess about too much placing it ,a small cam at the upper horizontal break was most welcome :-) didn't find the move at the top super hard

Marti999 14/Sep/12 Lead O/S
debbie roberts 14/Sep/12 2nd
useful 13/Sep/12 2nd RP

One tiny rest just before the overhang; otherwise, clean. Steve led the route, John took out half of the gear.

with John M, Steve E
luke384 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Jamie
jandyd05 28/Aug/12 TR rpt

top rope solo

with solo
steven_daniels99 23/Jul/12 2nd O/S
GPN 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Annette
jkarran 01/Jul/12 Lead

Deserving of its stars, great climbing, great gear and a fun final sprint

with Team
petellis 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S
mattyork2 01/Jul/12 Lead dog

Ahh. Pumped out and lobbed off after a good amount of tıme denyıng the ınevıtable and clıngıng on for grım death. Really pleased to take a safe clean fall off thıs. Mıght have got ıt ıf had clımbed faster but ıt was experıence ın the bag for next tıme.

wazzalad20 20/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Excellent climb, nice sustained crack climb with a hard finish. Got too pumped to complete and peeled off, tiny nut managed to hold in horizontal crack:-)

Hidden 01/Jun/12 Lead RP
Pinky 01/Jun/12 Lead dog

Brill route and patient partner, thanks Al Amazing pocket in top roof which I managed to get a not in and it held three lobs.

with alec thomas
Chriswallis2 02/May/12 Lead rpt
with Jim MEC
Landy_Dom 15/Apr/12 2nd β

Repeat climb. Stripped Mike’s gear after he took a big lob from above the crux. Moves below overlap felt hard and top out was pumpy with little for feet.

with Ciaran Gallagher, Mike Bailey
nacmacfeeglexx08 15/Apr/12 Lead dnf
nacmacfeeglexx08 15/Apr/12 TR β
Landy_Dom 13/Nov/11 TR O/S

Clean on sight. Sustained and fingery throughout. Some bold moves at the top above tricky gear placements.

nacmacfeeglexx08 13/Nov/11 TR β
Roger Cruse 06/Nov/11 TR rpt
with Kris & Jill
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
williap 27/Sep/11 2nd
with josh robinson
nacmacfeeglexx08 19/Sep/11 Lead dnf

ran low on small gear 3/4 up just under roof section

with Ciaren Gallagher
Kirstyprice7 17/Aug/11 TR dnf

Did not make full climb, got stuck on 2 big horizontal crack, found it a difficult climb.

with Rob Chudley
Scottish78 17/Aug/11 TR
Zoomer 17/Aug/11 TR O/S
with A Student
Jen Crook 27/Jul/11 Lead
Chriswallis2 25/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Jim MEC
gary.barr 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Awesome! Had a bit of a slip at the top that would have resulted in me peeling off, but somehow managed to hold on. Adrenaline helped me top out. Great climbing, good gear.

with Ally Singleton, Tony Dermody
Hidden 31/May/11 Lead
spacey 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Vicky Hoolohan
jandyd05 16/Apr/11 TR O/S

Really nice climb with a key move round the overlap. Need to lead it next time :-)

Hidden 16/Apr/11 TR
mzchambers 25/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Chriswallis2 13/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Anna
Chriswallis2 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Pete
michael burrows 08/Jan/11 TR rpt
tunaficiency ??/2011 Lead

make sure you dont miss the huge jug above the break which i managed to do and sketched my way to the top

cleft88 ??/2011 TR
with Ozzy
michael burrows 11/Aug/10 TR rpt
Lenny 29/Jul/10 TR rpt
with John
Roger Cruse 18/Jul/10 TR rpt
Misha 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
Roger Cruse 03/Jul/10 TR rpt
with Kris, Jill & Malcolm
BorisVBlade 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Roger Cruse 21/Jun/10 TR rpt
mzchambers 02/Jun/10 2nd O/S
matt0759 22/May/10 TR
A Crook 11/May/10 2nd
with Duncan Hassell, Dom Stockton
caradoc 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with emma v.
Hidden 05/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Lenny 27/Nov/09 TR O/S
metal arms 07/Oct/09 Lead
Knoxy 25/Sep/09 TR O/S

Fantastic climbing near the top

with David Clough
Hidden 06/Aug/09 2nd rpt
lost.arrow 06/Aug/09 -
with Ian Ashworth
grady ?/Aug/09 2nd
Rampikino 18/Jun/09 TR
with Cat
phil stubbs ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Finally concuered the nemesis

HeatherF 07/Apr/09 Lead
with My mum
willson 17/Jan/09 2nd
with ben
richardhargreaves ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 TR
Hidden ??/2009 -
climbingpixie 25/Jun/08 2nd
with Toffer
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead dog
Hidden 07/May/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/May/08 TR O/S
lost.arrow 07/May/08 -
porridgefan 20/Feb/08 TR O/S
with Gareth Borthwick
HeatherF 12/Jan/08 TR O/S
with my shunt-bloody climbing partners!
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with Dave Evans
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
jonny357 ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Matt Willess
leaf1741 ??/2008 -
Chris the Tall 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Faffed about with gear, so it felt harder than it should have done. Moves were actualy pretty straightforward.

Hidden 23/Aug/07 2nd dog
lost.arrow 23/Aug/07 -
Hidden 20/May/07 2nd
Ben1983 14/May/07 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Roel
ritchierich 18/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Bob Dickson
Mike Parker 07/Apr/07 TR O/S
with Lee Lewis
MDowson 24/Mar/07 TR rpt
with Richard Hargreaves
jepotherepo ??/2007 Lead
Ed Booth 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S


with Roel Driesen
Hidden 19/Sep/06 TR
HeatherF 09/Sep/06 TR
with My mum
guyblackwood 22/Aug/06 TR O/S
with Kim
Hidden 13/Aug/06 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 08/Aug/06 -
Neil Metcalfe101 01/Aug/06 2nd dog
with Richard & Tony
guyblackwood 25/Jul/06 TR O/S
with Alys
Neil Metcalfe101 01/Jul/06 2nd dnf
with Richard & Tony
John Marsland 14/Jun/06 Lead dog
with John Haslam
Dom Whillans 03/May/06 Lead
with a.crook
Mark Riley 19/Apr/06 Solo rpt
lost.arrow 15/Apr/06 TR
Mark A Humphries 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with gary wood
Rob Davies ?/Mar/06 TR

Backed off lead - seemed hard on TR moving R

with Phil Ashton
BruceW ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Becca
Mark Riley ??/2005 Lead rpt
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
with C Harney
Hidden 04/Jul/01 2nd
John Marsland 20/Aug/00 2nd
with Allen Newby
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Roget 20/Feb/99 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
jcw ?/May/97 -
with Dave Hayward
NeilGriffiths 13/Oct/96 -
with paula
Hidden ??/1996 Lead rpt
John Southworth ?/Feb/95 Lead
neilh 26/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with sara hyde
smudge 11/Aug/94 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Jul/93 Solo
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Big Rik ??/1990 -
sdpwilliams ??/1989 Lead O/S
michael burrows 20/Apr/88 Lead rpt
with pete roberts
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, spalice, MDowson, Hidden, Hidden, Mozzy, Owen W-G, Landy_Dom, Hidden, Hidden, MountainMing, ColinD, dicky79
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