Rockfax Description
30m. Top-class wall climbing up the light-coloured right-hand side of the wall which is sustained and well protected. Fingery moves up the wall above the trees (bolt) gain breaks and a long narrow vegetated ledge. Make a technical move past a bolt to more horizontal breaks and go up slightly right to a flake. Move left and up, past another bolt, to a peg. Step up and rightwards to the arete and then gain the top up its left-hand side. Finishing directly up the wall from the final peg is E6 6b. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Now Bolted - Was E5 6a.30m.

FA. Gary Gibson 11.3.89. Direct - Gary Gibson 23.8.89 11/Mar/1989

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 05/Jul Lead dnf
FreddieSmith 02/Jun Lead RP
Dale ?/Apr Lead dog

My only sports training for el chorro. Warmed up on gazza stripper and rabble roser then got on this. Tim put the clips in he was tried from a yesterday session in paraselas cave. He scared me a bit made it look hard. So I had a go, got all the moves until the 5th bolt just over third of the way up then ran out of steam completely. Resulting in rests and three falls one being pretty big. O well made it to the top in the end one to come back for with more stamina. Excellent route

Hidden 05/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Luke Owens 21/Aug/14 Lead RP

2nd go, should of flashed. Classic route!

Hidden 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S
FreddieSmith 01/Aug/14 Lead β
SGD 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

some hard moves to start but then got easier to a monster rest then it gets hard. So chuffed to flash this, the clips were in which im glad of as I would have struggled to put them in on the lead. 6c+/7a? dont know I'll take either.

Dan Mckinlay ?/Jul/13 -
ejected ??/2013 -
derico 17/Jul/12 Lead O/S

7a not 6c+.

Luke Owens 31/May/12 Lead dog
Leon Bowen
philhilo 15/Apr/12 TR dog

Short on time so top roped. 7a in old guide and 7a in my book too! Took a few shots on bottom sequence. Rest was stamina fest but quality. Impressed with Helens go on it too.

Hidden 09/Jul/11 TR rpt
Lenny 24/May/11 TR
Mark (Jumper)
Adam Booth 20/Apr/11 Lead RP
Ed Booth 20/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Lead then top roped 3 more times for stamina training. On the lead stepped left where the 2nd old bolt used to be, but there is a way fo doing the move straight that isnt that bad wich i did on the other goes.also looked at the direct direct finish. i presume the direct finish mentioned in the guide is the one that still goes slightly right as straight up would be at least hard eng 6c.

Rob Ireson
Adam Booth 20/Apr/11 TR

Top roped x2... Stamina training!

Ed Booth 24/Feb/11 Lead rpt

Pumpy for first time on the wall of the year. Just about hung in there though. My shoes kept coming off too which wasnt making it any easier. Such a cool wall.

Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
dts 05/Sep/10 2nd
jamiev 25/Jul/10 Lead dog

F7a. Came off near top at move rightwards but was quite tird by then...Very good route.

Tom Lewis
Dave Rumney 23/Jun/10 TR
Paul Drew
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Joe Grondowski 13/Mar/10 Lead
kingholmesy ??/2010 Lead

Wimped out and pulled on one of the draws to make the clip by the grotty, slopey ledge high up, but otherwise clean.

Andy S
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Steve Long 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Chris Parkin
Hidden 07/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
dominic lee 02/May/09 Lead O/S
neil foster, andy elliot
Mat Welsh ?/May/09 Lead RP
Ed Booth 13/Apr/09 TR β

Have top roped before. Went up to retrieve clips.

David Quatermain
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/08 Lead β
datoon 25/Aug/08 Lead dog

Fell from the crux - the undercut to the break!!!

Mark Riley 07/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Patrick Green
Hidden 05/Apr/08 TR dog
goi.ashmore 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Mark Richardson
Hidden 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
MikeYouCanClimb 02/Feb/08 Lead RP
samwisethebrave2 ??/2008 Lead dog
Rob Ireson
Roget 09/Sep/95 Lead O/S

wasn't a sport route back then!

High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set