Black is Beautiful*** E4 6b
[Tim at the crux!!, 2 kb]30m.

Rockfax Description
30m. A fine climb of contrasts on immaculate rock. The moves near the bolt are desperate, the other sections are easier but much more scary. It is advisable to finish up the last 8m of Black Bastard since the upper wall is dirty in the breaks. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
The bolt is not in situ making this wall all traditional. For those under 5"11 who are unable to reach the good hold from the obvious crozzly footholds above the break this route is worth E5.

FA. Doug Kerr 8.8.87 08/Aug/1987

Ticklists: Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Photo: Tim at the crux!! © Roel Driesen
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This climb is in 16 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Years after seeing the bolt chopped I've gone back for the onsight. Not easy! I think you need to be 6ft or so to reach through the crux. After a lot of time going up and down on the little crimps I found a static 6c(ish) sequence with a super-high left foot and tiny left crimp. I think the bolt-less ascent might be worth E5 6c for the short, or hard 6b.
anguskille - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/15 with Paul Francis

benw681 - TR - 27/Oct/14

Andrew171 - TR O/S - 24/Aug/14 with gemma smallman

wet top half. kept raining for the crux. Finally committed with a lunge after a couple fo ups and down. I was 1 inch from the hold reaching static. Think for 5'10 and under this is worth E5 without the bolt.
Ed Booth - Lead rpt - 19/Jan/14 with Adam Booth

desprate moves with what fell a long fall. lost the psyche after taking a fall off the crux twice
barni - Lead dnf - 12/Nov/09 with luke, Liam fleming

finally chopped the bolt! we now have a pure black wall. Probably about E5 6b without the bolt, felt a bit skechy this thime around, sure i was going to fall!
fennerz - Lead rpt - 22/Dec/08 with Ed, Angus, Anna, Sean, Rich

Maybe the first boltless flash??? Although a fall without el bolto would be much scarier/much further, I'm fairly sure it'd be safe (if you didn't get the rope behind the legs). Because of this I think Fennerz chopping the bolt has made a better route. Definitely harder for the shorter, as it involves the 'desperate moves' whereas the tall can reach through. Even being 5'11 I had to dyno the crux, which made for some sick tension and almost a bloody scary fall. As for a new grade I reckon low E5, top end E4 (6b - even 6c for the short). Now a top class trad route on a top class trad wall.
smallerrich - Lead β - 22/Dec/08 with Fennerz and Boothy

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Nov/08

I'm with Ed on this one lets chop the feckin' bolt and have a trad purist heaven!
fennerz - Lead β - 27/Aug/08 with Angus and Ed

Was actually trying to make the first boltless ascent but it went a bit wrong and i ended up clipping the bolt moments before falling off. Did the move and finsihed to the top. The trad challenge still remains . . .
Ed Booth - Lead - 26/Jul/08 with Tim Evans

nige - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/08 with mark hounslea

Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Jul/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/07

Found the move hard, pulled the bolt and bailed back into Direct, was suing a duff sequence, will go bavck though and do it in a oneer! Good effort Tim on siting it on toppy.
Ed Booth - Lead - 25/Jul/07 with Tim Evans

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 21/Nov/98 with Martin Crocker

Roget - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/96 with jon

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jamestaylor92, anguskille, scouser666
Total votes cast 20
hard E50 of 7
E50 of 7
easy E51 of 7
hard E43 of 7
E42 of 7
easy E40 of 7
hard E31 of 7
E30 of 7
easy E30 of 7
hard 6c0 of 7
6c0 of 7
easy 6c2 of 7
hard 6b0 of 7
6b2 of 7
easy 6b1 of 7
hard 6a2 of 7
6a0 of 7
easy 6a0 of 7
3 Stars3 of 6
2 Stars2 of 6
1 Star1 of 6
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