Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Years after seeing the bolt chopped I've gone back for the onsight. Not easy! I think you need to be 6ft or so to reach through the crux. After a lot of time going up and down on the little crimps I found a static 6c(ish) sequence with a super-high left foot and tiny left crimp. I think the bolt-less ascent might be worth E5 6c for the short, or hard 6b.
anguskille - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/15 with Paul Francis
benw681 - TR - 27/Oct/14
Andrew171 - TR O/S - 24/Aug/14 with gemma smallman
wet top half. kept raining for the crux. Finally committed with a lunge after a couple fo ups and down. I was 1 inch from the hold reaching static. Think for 5'10 and under this is worth E5 without the bolt.
Ed Booth - Lead rpt - 19/Jan/14 with Adam Booth
desprate moves with what fell a long fall. lost the psyche after taking a fall off the crux twice
barni - Lead dnf - 12/Nov/09 with luke, Liam fleming
finally chopped the bolt!
we now have a pure black wall.
Probably about E5 6b without the bolt, felt a bit skechy this thime around, sure i was going to fall!
fennerz - Lead rpt - 22/Dec/08 with Ed, Angus, Anna, Sean, Rich
Maybe the first boltless flash??? Although a fall without el bolto would be much scarier/much further, I'm fairly sure it'd be safe (if you didn't get the rope behind the legs). Because of this I think Fennerz chopping the bolt has made a better route. Definitely harder for the shorter, as it involves the 'desperate moves' whereas the tall can reach through. Even being 5'11 I had to dyno the crux, which made for some sick tension and almost a bloody scary fall. As for a new grade I reckon low E5, top end E4 (6b - even 6c for the short). Now a top class trad route on a top class trad wall.
smallerrich - Lead β - 22/Dec/08 with Fennerz and Boothy
Hidden - 2nd - 26/Nov/08
I'm with Ed on this one lets chop the feckin' bolt and have a trad purist heaven!
fennerz - Lead β - 27/Aug/08 with Angus and Ed
Was actually trying to make the first boltless ascent but it went a bit wrong and i ended up clipping the bolt moments before falling off. Did the move and finsihed to the top. The trad challenge still remains . . .
Ed Booth - Lead - 26/Jul/08 with Tim Evans
nige - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/08 with mark hounslea
Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Jul/07
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/07
Found the move hard, pulled the bolt and bailed back into Direct, was suing a duff sequence, will go bavck though and do it in a oneer! Good effort Tim on siting it on toppy.
Ed Booth - Lead - 25/Jul/07 with Tim Evans
Nigel Coe - 2nd - 21/Nov/98 with Martin Crocker
Roget - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/96 with jon