UKC

23m.

Rockfax Description
One of the West Country's great sport routes. Start beneath a pocketed weakness. Move up on good pockets and then swing right to good jams in the horizontal break at 6m. Make a hard move to a good pocket then lurch up the wall, first leftwards and then back right to a final move to easier ground. © Rockfax

FA. Nick White, Pete Bull, Andy Turner Mar/1988.

Ticklists

The road to 8a , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Classic UK F7s , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Classic Anstey's , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rock cats getting strong , Andy's Projects , University of Exeter must tick's , Moving to Devon , South Side Sport , 30 For My 30s , Soft Touches , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Recommended 7's 2021 , Bristol Bangers , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Autumn Road Trip , Pyramid to 8a+ , Routes , Cream first! , Quality 7b-7b+ in South Devon , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do! , Sascha's Anstey's Cove Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
plant_based_tommo 24 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Might have been solid 7b before the polish. Easily 7b+ now in my opinion. Well worth doing though!
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βeta: Might have been solid 7b before the polish. Easily 7b+ now in my opinion. Well worth doing though!
richgac 4 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: An awesome route. Good holds when you need them, but still best done rapidly.
βeta?
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βeta: An awesome route. Good holds when you need them, but still best done rapidly.
Davros the Psyched 30 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Bring your biggest guns and a LOT of ammo - this puppy's a pumper. Solid for 7b.
βeta?
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βeta: Bring your biggest guns and a LOT of ammo - this puppy's a pumper. Solid for 7b.
david potts 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: pure class
βeta?
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βeta: pure class
midgets of the world unite 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'd like to add, I don't think a photo-topo works very well for this wall, where much of it is obscured, or for the ferocity wall either, where the routes are identified by subtle features. The old line-topos in the old guide were much better.
βeta?
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βeta: I'd like to add, I don't think a photo-topo works very well for this wall, where much of it is obscured, or for the ferocity wall either, where the routes are identified by subtle features. The old line-topos in the old guide were much better.
midgets of the world unite 1 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: mega, mega, mega. Sprint up the leaning wall with nicely spaced bolts. A clipstick takes the sting out of the start in these soft modern times...
βeta?
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βeta: mega, mega, mega. Sprint up the leaning wall with nicely spaced bolts. A clipstick takes the sting out of the start in these soft modern times...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Anstey's Cove

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 153
Votes cast 139
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
This is My Church

Grade: 7b S1 ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

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