Empire of the Sun*** 7b
[Rich Smith on Empire of the Sun, 2 kb]20m. A magnificent stamina test. After a slightly bold start, it becomes a race against time to the top. No hard moves. © ROCKFAX
Ah and sorry, no 7b+ tick to be found here Rockfax West Country Climbs readers, try The Lynch if that's what you're after...
FA. Nick White, Pete Bull, Andy Turner 3.88 Mar/1988

Ticklists: The road to 8a, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Classic UK F7s, Rockfax West Country top 50, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Classic Anstey's.

Photo: Rich Smith on Empire of the Sun © midgets of the world unite
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 252 logbooks, and on 87 wishlists.

brices - Lead rpt - 02/Nov/14 with Remus, Llinos, Cailean

Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Nov/14

3rd RP. Some brilliant sequences. Pumptastic.
Dan Savory - Lead RP - 14/Sep/14 with Paul Edwards

Last time i tried it got so pumped and fell on the second crux, did it today and felt so easy?
Rory Bascombe - Lead RP - 13/Sep/14 with Ed Gow-Smith

Blew the last move punching the wall above the jug, doh!
Pippa - Lead dog - 05/Sep/14 with Jamie Thornley

Got 70% up and fell on RP crux. Will go with a bit more stamina
Ross.Cooper - Lead dog - 30/Aug/14 with Laurence Everitt, Patrick Hill

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Aug/14

jonleighton - Lead RP - 30/Aug/14

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead β - 29/Aug/14 with Dave Ferguson

C coldwell-storry - Lead RP - 19/Aug/14

La Mont - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/14 with James Doc

2nd ever sport climb, awesome. So scary for me, not used to it at all! Piss moves though, now for something harder...
EdGS - Lead RP - 08/Aug/14 with Adam Cooper

Retrofits after 21 years - still a mega route
piken - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/14 with Andy

Hidden - Lead RP - Aug/14

JPGR - Lead RP - 29/Jul/14 with Yvette

Sarah Black - Lead dog - 26/Jul/14 with Paul Black

1st go, watched mate Redpoint it, climbed between 2nd & 3rd bolt differently
peaches69 - Lead β - 21/Jul/14 with luke

Luuuuuke - Lead RP - 21/Jul/14 with Si

JackMac - Lead dnf - 02/Jul/14 with Dave

Llinos C - 15/Jun/14 with Tom Ball, Wendy Coles, Simon Brice

Mowglee - Lead dog - 11/Jun/14 with Ali

Got all the moves in overlapping sections, but nowhere near enough endurance to link them together. Last couple of moves feel desperate when pumped!
Mowglee - TR dog - 11/Jun/14 with Ali

Errmm Spanked :) will come back when im lighter and stronger :)
paul reah - 2nd dnf - 05/Jun/14 with Tom Mullier

Ainsi - Lead - 05/Jun/14

Glad to get this tonight. Felt solid last night but went pretty smooth tonight.
R2B - Lead RP - 16/May/14 with Nick

Hidden - TR dog - 24/Apr/14

Classic
guy xavier percival - Lead RP - 17/Mar/14 with paul

ejected - 2014

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Oct/13

Best foothold found for crux, linked some sections and honed beta. This route gets better!
dprctr - Lead dog - 27/Sep/13 with Vince McNally

Gave it two goes on lead. Clipped sticked past the crux both times. No hard moves (bollox!)
dprctr - Lead dog - 23/Sep/13 with Vince McNally

chakrit - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13

emily_allen - Lead dog - 24/Aug/13

chrisscutt - Lead RP - 24/Aug/13 with ro, oly

I've been wanting to try this for years, I was so disappointed at how hard it felt. Will be back for it, need to get fitter.
thedoctorisin - Lead dog - 24/Aug/13 with chris scutt

Pleased to get the flash! Really fun route!
Pajamas Tom - Lead β - 21/Aug/13 with Ellis Butler-Barker

BenNorman - 2nd rpt - 16/Aug/13

EmilyElouise - TR dog - 11/Aug/13

TommityP - Lead dog - 11/Aug/13

3 Names - Lead dog - 02/Aug/13 with Ed Bulman

Gus - Lead - 02/Aug/13 with simon "the horse" wilson

Flash
peteharrison06 - Lead β - Aug/13

2nd go after a bolt to bolt, feeling fit now. Great route that builds and builds
BenNorman - Lead RP - 23/Jul/13

BOOM!
DJ Nelson - Lead RP - 19/Jul/13 with Jonathan Emett

Patrick Hill - Lead RP - 18/Jul/13 with olly12344

oliver.ghill91 - 18/Jul/13 with Patrick Hill

Tried and died a few RP goes, maybe 9 days climbing is too much. Good route.
DDDD - Lead dog - 15/Jul/13 with Sham

2nd RP after bolt to bolt
Phil Belcher - Lead RP - 11/Jul/13 with Drew

First route on my birthday!
Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead rpt - 07/Jul/13 with Charlotte Warner

Took 7 try's, must refine tactics. Great route worth the effort!
Pathological_Climber - Lead RP - 06/Jul/13

Best go had it in 2 sections, to the forth bolt and then to the top.
Bisset - Lead dog - 30/Jun/13 with Dan, Vera, Johnathan

Gav A - Lead RP - 10/Jun/13 with Roz

rhoslynfrugtniet - Lead RP - 10/Jun/13

alek - Lead dog - 09/Jun/13 with Laurence Everett

Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 09/Jun/13 with Ross Cooper, Jay Kay, Alek Kumar

3 redpoint efforts,got past 4th bolt twice before lobbing.
misterb - Lead dog - 08/Jun/13 with nick, justin

alek - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/13 with James Kay

Ramon Marin - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/13 with jerome mowat

Ramon Marin - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/13 with jerome mowat

lewisrichardson - 01/Jun/13 with dad

Amazing route flows really nicely wish there was more like this
brices - Lead β - 29/May/13 with Jim Pope, Gav

Ramon Marin - Lead rpt - 27/May/13 with viki harvey

Not quite as I'd expected. No idea what I expected though
chiverstom - Lead dnf - 25/May/13 with zappa, Alice

Ed morris - Lead RP - 15/May/13 with Colin

chris j - Lead rpt - 11/May/13 with Nick Saunders

One bolt to bolt to get draws in then got to the fourth bolt on the first RP. Should go next time. A totally awesome route.
Ed morris - Lead dog - 11/May/13 with Colin

Very nice route, not too bad. Big links on a project today so finished off on this and the 7c version.
Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead RP - 02/May/13 with Charlie Woodburn, Andrew Haley

shoulders - TR - 27/Apr/13 with mikeshewring, mart, andy sharp

Hidden - Lead β - 27/Apr/13

RP1
davidliu - Lead RP - 27/Apr/13 with Dave P, James Kay

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/13

kingholmesy - Lead RP - 2013 with Mr Tickle, RusseyB

tom106 - Lead β - 27/Aug/12

Jeronimo - Lead β - 25/Aug/12

Annoyed to miss the retro-flash & still got mega-pumped 2nd go. I'll know I'm fit when it feels easy!
quiffhanger - Lead rpt - 25/Aug/12

jacobjacob - Lead β - 25/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Aug/12

Dogged up to 4th bolt I think
theotherpetehill - Lead dnf - 24/Aug/12 with Michelle

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Aug/12

Felt much easier this time!
TCCB - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/12

Even though it would be soft, I reckon this deserves 7b+ as per the new rockfax. Either way it's a brilliant route, lots of big moves between positive holds and a few good rests.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12

Hangover onsight. Will Atkinson's stag 2012
Cassidy - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/12 with Scottish Raiding Party

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Aug/12

I felt like death. Great Stag Do
willackers - Lead β - 06/Aug/12 with lots of scottish people

Michelle W - Lead dog - Aug/12

too hot!
Tom Seccombe - Lead dog - 25/Jul/12 with tim exley

Nice climb. Pretty polished in places. Straightforward climbing between good holds but still pumpy!!
dj_brigham05 - Lead β - 04/Jun/12 with James Connolly, Rob Tyler

fun route. big moves between good holds. quite polished. Hopefully get to try it again sometime whenever i get back down this way
jimmyrua - Lead dog - 04/Jun/12 with Dave, Dicky, Pete, Rob

Hidden - TR dog - 25/May/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Apr/12

Ramon Marin - Lead rpt - 14/Apr/12 with adam brown

Very good. The moves are easy but it feels 7b+.
Jon_Warner - Lead dog - 13/Apr/12 with Jenni

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Apr/12

Flashed to second bolt but had worked moves above when doing "Not just empire". Hard 7b.. almost 7b+??
derico - Lead - 12/Apr/12 with Jonny

Shitbollocksfuck! One bolt to bolt, then it rained before my 1st RP attempt. Forgot a foot sequence after crux and fell, then did to the top but fell due to wet pocket! After it rained even more had another go but didn't rest enough due to a lack of time. This would go easy with a full dry day. One of the best routes I've ever been on! Cheers for beta Jerome.
Duncan Campbell - Lead dog - 10/Apr/12 with Jerome Taylor

Rob Pitt - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/12 with Nick Saunders, Nick Arding

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12

felt like 6b this year!
Luke Dawson - Lead rpt - 31/Mar/12

burto - Lead RP - 23/Jan/12 with dale, jerome

Hidden - 2012

TommityP - Lead dog - 02/Dec/11

Stupendous. Feels like 7b+ but then again my stamina is woeful. One of the best routes ive ever done. 7b.
nathanlee - Lead RP - 19/Oct/11 with Dom Lee

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 19/Oct/11 with nathan lee

Celebrating the big 50.
dominic lee - Lead β - 17/Oct/11 with nathan lee

Finally. Mega. 7b. 4th weekend on since autumn '09. RP efforts 03/10/09 (Richie) and 27&29/08/11 (Hardin).
catt - Lead RP - 09/Oct/11 with Ali

1 bolt-to-bolt and then numerous dnfs
Jonathan Emett - Lead dog - 25/Sep/11 with toby

Hidden - 22/Sep/11

3 attempts, starting to link.
Jonathan Emett - Lead dog - 21/Sep/11 with toby

Hidden - TR dog - 12/Sep/11

lead past the hard bit. too knackered & scared to carry on :(
Jonathan Emett - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/11 with toby

Toby Dunn - Lead - 08/Sep/11

Best 7b ever?
Tris.w - Lead RP - 04/Sep/11 with sash.c

Hidden - Lead dog - Sep/11

amazingly steep, sustained climbing on good holds, so much fun & not as polished as everyone says
Dan Jenkin - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11 with Ollie Benzie, James Marshall

Hidden - Lead β - 29/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Aug/11

2 dismally unsuccessful tr attempts.
Jonathan Emett - TR dog - 19/Aug/11 with duncan, pete scott

2 redpoint attempts. One fall, at same place in each.
TommityP - Lead dog - 18/Aug/11

Nice but slipped of super-polish foothold on the on-site attempt. Dragged my way up feeling v tired on the 3rd go with some horrendous shaky climbing - not pretty.
quiffhanger - Lead RP - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Aug/11

lojant - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/11 with Pawel Gregorczyk

lojant - Lead dog - 11/Aug/11 with Pawel Gregorczyk

lojant - Lead dog - 11/Aug/11 with Pawel Gregorczyk

lojant - Lead dog - 11/Aug/11 with Pawel Gregorczyk

Would like to claim the onsight but dont think i can as i watched a guy fall off the crux and sort of worked out a sequence before getting on. Will take the flash. No hard moves but sustained. Absolutely brilliant route. 7b
felixthelion - Lead β - 11/Aug/11 with Dan craig

Found it very hard. Will go back to try again next year!
Chris Ellyatt - Lead dnf - 03/Aug/11 with Craig Potter

Bristoldave - Lead RP - 02/Aug/11 with Finn

Very sore fingers after yesterday and a bit too pumpy for me at the moment.
drysori - Lead dog - 31/Jul/11

Well pumpy, total classic..
Rick hard Rock - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with James Marshall

highrepute - Lead RP - 09/Jul/11

Joe Costello - Lead RP - 09/Jul/11 with Ellie, James, Liam

tom harrison - Jul/11

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Jun/11

Pippa - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/11 with Jon

Incredible!
Chris_barr - Lead RP - 11/Jun/11 with Dave

Dave Searle - Lead RP - 08/Jun/11

Should have flashed. Did second go. Fr7b...
Ed Booth - Lead RP - 29/May/11

Shame its so polished.
Adam Booth - TR dog - 28/May/11 with Ed Booth

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/May/11

On my birthday! first red point. probably the best sport route iv done in the UK
Glyn - Lead RP - 23/May/11 with Amy

lukehunt - Lead O/S - 23/May/11 with Sam Dewhurst

Ciro - Lead RP - 22/May/11

flashed to the 4th(?) bolt and then backed off like a puss. quite polished and very chalky but some cool moves
mark_wellin - Lead dog - 21/May/11

Ramon Marin - Lead rpt - 21/May/11 with Adrian Baxter

chris j - Lead RP - 17/May/11 with Nick Saunders

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/May/11

Kevster - Lead dog - 14/May/11

3 gos. got the moves. had it clean to the triangular pocket but put the wrong hand up (right) and couldn't match. doh.
Jonathan Emett - TR dog - 13/May/11 with duncan

Hidden - TR dnf - 07/May/11

marcpontin - Lead RP - May/11 with huw

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - Apr/11

Polished
Spacetourist - Lead O/S - Apr/11 with Rosea

Cailean Harker - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/11

PeterDawson - Lead RP - 2011

wow, stunning route and glad to of done it clean. really felt good :)
adam cooper*super* - Lead rpt - 10/Nov/10 with jack folland

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/Oct/10

dan gibson - Lead RP - 23/Oct/10 with michael porter

Having climbed in places like Ceuse and Kalymnos this is still my favourite route of all time!
John Henry Wynn - Lead rpt - 19/Oct/10 with Simon Downing

1st rp
eddieclimb - Lead RP - 07/Sep/10 with Rebecca Edwards

Hidden - TR dog - 29/Aug/10

La Mont - Lead RP - 29/Aug/10 with Lisa Paling

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/Aug/10

Hidden - TR dog - 18/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Aug/10

alaan - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead RP - Aug/10

Sick. Fighting all the way, was tired from the off. Brilliant big moves on big ass holds.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 30/Jul/10 with Mikey G

Pumpy pumperoo! Brilliant dynamic moves between mostly good holds on steep rock. Stamina helps, and working this route will develop stamina like nothin else!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead RP - 30/Jul/10 with alex mason

thomb - Lead - 10/Jul/10

Awesome, brilliant moves, sustained
colesy - Lead RP - 10/Jul/10

2nd go. Very good - nice and pumpy.
sparkass - Lead RP - 10/Jul/10 with Gary Wood

amazing route though i think its easy for 7b good as any 7b in france or spain similar style 2 did 4 laps on this with very little res inbetween defo not 7b+ easy 7b
Luke Dawson - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Jul/10

James Marshall - Lead rpt - Jul/10

Hidden - TR dog - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - TR dog - 19/Jun/10

What an amazing route!
Jack_F - Lead - 15/Jun/10 with jerome

Hidden - TR dog - 06/Jun/10

Hidden - TR dnf - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jun/10

Couldn't get to the second bolt. Need to get stronger.
francois - TR dnf - 05/Jun/10 with Chawn

raku - Lead RP - 20/May/10

Sweet power endurance work out, great fun!
andybfreeman - Lead RP - 15/May/10

Hidden - TR dog - 03/May/10

A good milestone to tick by! such a good route
Will_Murray - Lead - May/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/10

At last! Feeling pretty rough back on this first time for a good few months and with a stinking headache but it went.
Justin T - Lead RP - 23/Apr/10

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/10

Best Route in the south west!!!!
John Henry Wynn - Lead - 17/Apr/10 with Will Murray

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Mar/10

Hidden - 2010

Garrouli - Lead RP - 2010 with Mark, Pete

tom169 - Lead dog - 17/Oct/09 with Dom

Finally! Warmed up bolt to bolt and got it first redpoint. Has been a long time coming, 3rd trip! Hard 7b. Amazing route.
Richard Hall - Lead RP - 12/Oct/09 with James Marshall

James Marshall - Lead RP - Oct/09

bolt to bolt it was so easy! all in one go it was not. need to get fitter methinks.
w.pettet-smith - Lead dog - 18/Sep/09 with josh

Brilliant route....one of the best of the grade.....and perhaps one of the best of any in the country. Nothing cruxy but putting it all together is a challenge. Good holds and very steep so quite a unique climb for the UK
Morgan Woods - Lead RP - 05/Sep/09 with Iain

hippo99 - Lead RP - Sep/09 with rache, joe

Hidden - 29/Aug/09

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/09

Brutal. Way off.
Jon_Warner - 2nd dog - 07/Jul/09 with Tom

Billg - Lead RP - 27/Jun/09 with James Kauntze

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Dave Moir

feilx - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/09 with Angus

dmoir - Lead RP - 13/Jun/09 with Dan Barbour

angusaussie - Lead RP - 13/Jun/09 with Felix Coxwell

Must try harder.
Paz - Lead dog - 30/May/09 with MT

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/09

Hidden - Lead RP - Mar/09

JeromeT - Lead RP - 2009

top ropped it once then lead it. way hay!
Dave Searle - Lead RP - 26/Sep/08 with dave

Put the clips in from ab for one last ditch end of day all or nothing attempt, and only got past bolt 3 again.
Paz - Lead dog - 22/Sep/08 with AB, MT, EB

Hidden - Lead β - 21/Sep/08

Failed the retro flash, and the 2 RPs on this particular day, but felt like I was fucking it up or burning out rather than getting totally spanked like before, which was nice.
Paz - Lead dog - 21/Sep/08 with AB, MT, EB

Hidden - TR dog - 19/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/May/08

Marti999 - Lead RP - 15/Nov/07 with Mark Glaister

lx - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/07 with alison

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 2007

Got just past the third clip three times.
Paz - Lead dog - 07/Jun/06 with AB, AS

Hidden - Lead RP - Jun/06

Dry enough.
Paz - Lead dog - 12/Apr/06 with AS

tuftynick - Lead RP - 2005

_m.cox_ - Lead RP - 2005 with Adam Mulholland

Richard White - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

westyb3 - Lead RP - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/02

Davros the Psyched - Lead RP - 2000

robyn1 - 1996

robyn1 - 1996

pmot - TR RP - Sep/93 with Mr Lizard

was given E6 6a/6b ... which sounds much better to me!
mattnuttall - Lead β - 04/Aug/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden

pmot - TR RP - 1993

Cowflinger - Lead - Aug/92

Cowflinger - Lead RP - Jul/92

shark - Lead - 1992

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Sep/91

Mike Owen - 14/Aug/89 with Elaine Owen

Flashed with beta from Nick
frank ramsay - 1989

Paul Clarke - Lead - 1981 with Various

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Voting
Total votes cast 174
hard 7b+0 of 92
7b+0 of 92
easy 7b+19 of 92
hard 7b45 of 92
7b22 of 92
easy 7b6 of 92
hard 7a+0 of 92
7a+0 of 92
easy 7a+0 of 92
3 Stars77 of 82
2 Stars5 of 82
1 Star0 of 82
0 Stars0 of 82
Bag of .....0 of 82
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Toproped
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf