Rockfax Description
One of the West Country's great sport-routes. Low in the grade, but very pumpy and a touch polished. Start beneath a pocketed weakness.
Move up the weakness on good pockets and then swing right to good jams in the horizontal break at 6m. Make a hard move to a good pocket then lurch up the wall, first leftwards and then back right to a final heave onto easier ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Ah and sorry, no 7b+ tick to be found here Rockfax West Country Climbs readers, try The Lynch if that's what you're after...

FA. Nick White, Pete Bull, Andy Turner 3.88 Mar/1988

Ticklists: The road to 8a, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Classic UK F7s, Rockfax West Country top 50, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Classic Anstey's.

LeeHogarth 01/Oct Lead RP
EdGS 25/Sep Lead rpt

Retroflash, good training.

with Rory
TomJ 19/Sep Lead dog
with si, afrosam
afrosam 19/Sep Lead RP

Haven't been that pumped in a while!

with TomJ, Si
lawsy_boy1 06/Sep Lead RP
Samworkman1989 07/Aug Lead RP

Amazing route! Got it third red point attempt today so knackered now!

Ben Russell 04/Aug Lead RP

Brilliant route this. Happy to have ticked it.

with Friends and crowd., JackMac
youngidiotnic 03/Aug Lead β
quiffhanger 25/Jul Lead rpt

Yet again tried to use it as a warm-up and yet again got completely boxed and gibbered my way up it.

with Rachel
tom169 21/Jul Lead RP
with Adam
5210Hill 18/Jul Lead RP
kennythescot 16/Jul Lead RP
ferdia 02/Jul Lead RP

third RP attempt. really great route. powerful, and some quite reachy moves i thought, even though i'm not short. feels harder and took longer than any other 7bs i've done.

with Jack
ferdia 27/Jun Lead dog
with Justin, Jack
Hidden 21/Jun Lead O/S
JackMac 18/Jun Lead RP

Awesome route in a beautiful location. First 7b.

with Russ
JackMac 13/Jun Lead dog

Only had time for one RP attempt - got the sequence wrong after bolt 4.

Hidden 06/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May Lead
Hidden 09/May Lead RP
Hidden ?/May Lead RP
alice fuller 30/Apr Lead dog

Got all the moves. Had another look 14/5/14 - good beta from Murray Dale and John Wilson.And another look 24/9/14.feeling more doable. hmm..put in clips today(15sep15), so actually on the sharp end-will need power endurance, think that is what the Barn is for:)19/0ct/15.put in clips, and lead clip tp clip refining. too tired to Rp.

climbomaniac 26/Apr Lead RP

no onsight but 2nd go. Superfun climbing!

samwillo 21/Apr Lead
James Oswald 11/Apr Lead dog

Ace route, one to come back for..

with Andy Moles, Ferdia
grey wolf 09/Apr Lead O/S
wintermute 04/Apr Lead RP
Joedt 04/Apr Lead RP
jfreeman 03/Apr Lead β
with Joe Taylor, Chris Arthur
Hidden 01/Apr Lead RP
Hidden 26/Mar Lead dog
brices 02/Nov/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead dnf
Dan Savory 14/Sep/14 Lead RP

3rd RP. Some brilliant sequences. Pumptastic.

with Paul Edwards
Rory Bascombe 13/Sep/14 Lead RP

Last time i tried it got so pumped and fell on the second crux, did it today and felt so easy?

Pippa 05/Sep/14 Lead dog

Blew the last move punching the wall above the jug, doh!

Ross.Cooper 30/Aug/14 Lead dog

Got 70% up and fell on RP crux. Will go with a bit more stamina

Hidden 30/Aug/14 Lead dog
jonleighton 30/Aug/14 Lead RP
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 29/Aug/14 Lead β
with Dave Ferguson
BillyRidal 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S
C coldwell-storry 19/Aug/14 Lead RP
La Mont 17/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with James Doc
EdGS 08/Aug/14 Lead RP

2nd ever sport climb, awesome. So scary for me, not used to it at all! Piss moves though, now for something harder...

with Adam Cooper
piken 05/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Retrofits after 21 years - still a mega route

with Andy
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead RP
JPGR 29/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Yvette
Sarah Black 26/Jul/14 Lead dog
peaches69 21/Jul/14 Lead β

1st go, watched mate Redpoint it, climbed between 2nd & 3rd bolt differently

with luke
Luuuuuke 21/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Si
JackMac 02/Jul/14 Lead dnf
with Dave
Llinos C 15/Jun/14 -
with Tom Ball, Wendy Coles, Simon Brice
Mowglee 11/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Ali
Mowglee 11/Jun/14 TR dog

Got all the moves in overlapping sections, but nowhere near enough endurance to link them together. Last couple of moves feel desperate when pumped!

with Ali
paul reah 05/Jun/14 2nd dnf

Errmm Spanked :) will come back when im lighter and stronger :)

Ainsi 05/Jun/14 Lead
R2B 16/May/14 Lead RP

Glad to get this tonight. Felt solid last night but went pretty smooth tonight.

with Nick
guy xavier percival 17/Mar/14 Lead RP


with paul
ejected ??/2014 -
Hidden 14/Oct/13 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Oct/13 Lead dnf
dprctr 27/Sep/13 Lead dog

Best foothold found for crux, linked some sections and honed beta. This route gets better!

dprctr 23/Sep/13 Lead dog

Gave it two goes on lead. Clipped sticked past the crux both times. No hard moves (bollox!)

chakrit 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
emily_allen 24/Aug/13 Lead dog
chrisscutt 24/Aug/13 Lead RP
with ro, oly
ollie_e 24/Aug/13 Lead dog

I've been wanting to try this for years, I was so disappointed at how hard it felt. Will be back for it, need to get fitter.

Pajamas Tom 21/Aug/13 Lead β

Pleased to get the flash! Really fun route!

BenNorman 16/Aug/13 2nd rpt
EmilyElouise 11/Aug/13 TR dog
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead dog
3 Names 02/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
Gus 02/Aug/13 Lead
with simon "the horse" wilson
peteharrison06 ?/Aug/13 Lead β


BenNorman 23/Jul/13 Lead RP

2nd go after a bolt to bolt, feeling fit now. Great route that builds and builds

DJ Nelson 19/Jul/13 Lead RP


Patrick Hill 18/Jul/13 Lead RP
oliver.ghill91 18/Jul/13 -
DDDD 15/Jul/13 Lead dog

Tried and died a few RP goes, maybe 9 days climbing is too much. Good route.

with Sham
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead RP
Ellis Butler-Barker 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt

First route on my birthday!

Pathological_Climber 06/Jul/13 Lead RP

Took 7 try's, must refine tactics. Great route worth the effort!

Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead RP
rhoslynfrugtniet 10/Jun/13 Lead RP
alek 09/Jun/13 Lead dog
Laurence Everitt 09/Jun/13 Lead RP
misterb 08/Jun/13 Lead dog

3 redpoint efforts,got past 4th bolt twice before lobbing.

with nick, justin
alek 08/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Ramon Marin 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with jerome mowat
Ramon Marin 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with jerome mowat
lewisrichardson 01/Jun/13 -
with dad
brices 29/May/13 Lead β

Amazing route flows really nicely wish there was more like this

with Jim Pope, Gav
Ramon Marin 27/May/13 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
chiverstom 25/May/13 Lead dnf

Not quite as I'd expected. No idea what I expected though

with zappa, Alice
Ed morris 15/May/13 Lead RP
with Colin
chris j 11/May/13 Lead rpt
with Nick Saunders
Ed morris 11/May/13 Lead dog

One bolt to bolt to get draws in then got to the fourth bolt on the first RP. Should go next time. A totally awesome route.

with Colin
Ellis Butler-Barker 02/May/13 Lead RP

Very nice route, not too bad. Big links on a project today so finished off on this and the 7c version.

with Charlie Woodburn, Andrew Haley
shoulders 27/Apr/13 TR
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead β
davidliu 27/Apr/13 Lead RP


Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
kingholmesy ??/2013 Lead RP
tom106 27/Aug/12 Lead β
Jeronimo 25/Aug/12 Lead β
quiffhanger 25/Aug/12 Lead rpt

Annoyed to miss the retro-flash & still got mega-pumped 2nd go. I'll know I'm fit when it feels easy!

jacobjacob 25/Aug/12 Lead β
Hidden 25/Aug/12 Lead dnf
theotherpetehill 24/Aug/12 Lead dnf

Dogged up to 4th bolt I think

with Michelle
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead RP
TCCB 12/Aug/12 Lead rpt

Felt much easier this time!

Joughton 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Even though it would be soft, I reckon this deserves 7b+ as per the new rockfax. Either way it's a brilliant route, lots of big moves between positive holds and a few good rests.

Cassidy 06/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Hangover onsight. Will Atkinson's stag 2012

with Scottish Raiding Party
Hidden 06/Aug/12 Lead β
willackers 06/Aug/12 Lead β

I felt like death. Great Stag Do

with lots of scottish people
Michelle W ?/Aug/12 Lead dog
Tom Seccombe 25/Jul/12 Lead dog

too hot!

dj_brigham05 04/Jun/12 Lead β

Nice climb. Pretty polished in places. Straightforward climbing between good holds but still pumpy!!

jimmyrua 04/Jun/12 Lead dog

fun route. big moves between good holds. quite polished. Hopefully get to try it again sometime whenever i get back down this way

with Dave, Dicky, Pete, Rob
Hidden 25/May/12 TR dog
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 14/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with adam brown
Jon_Warner 13/Apr/12 Lead dog

Very good. The moves are easy but it feels 7b+.

with Jenni
Hidden 12/Apr/12 Lead dog
derico 12/Apr/12 Lead

Flashed to second bolt but had worked moves above when doing "Not just empire". Hard 7b.. almost 7b+??

with Jonny
Duncan Campbell 10/Apr/12 Lead dog

Shitbollocksfuck! One bolt to bolt, then it rained before my 1st RP attempt. Forgot a foot sequence after crux and fell, then did to the top but fell due to wet pocket! After it rained even more had another go but didn't rest enough due to a lack of time. This would go easy with a full dry day. One of the best routes I've ever been on! Cheers for beta Jerome.

Rob Pitt 08/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Nick Saunders, Nick Arding
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 31/Mar/12 Lead rpt

felt like 6b this year!

burto 23/Jan/12 Lead RP
with dale, jerome
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 02/Dec/11 Lead dog
nathanlee 19/Oct/11 Lead RP

Stupendous. Feels like 7b+ but then again my stamina is woeful. One of the best routes ive ever done. 7b.

with Dom Lee
dominic lee 19/Oct/11 Lead rpt
dominic lee 17/Oct/11 Lead β

Celebrating the big 50.

catt 09/Oct/11 Lead RP

Finally. Mega. 7b. 4th weekend on since autumn '09. RP efforts 03/10/09 (Richie) and 27&29/08/11 (Hardin).

with Ali
Jonathan Emett 25/Sep/11 Lead dog

1 bolt-to-bolt and then numerous dnfs

with toby
Hidden 22/Sep/11 -
Jonathan Emett 21/Sep/11 Lead dog

3 attempts, starting to link.

with toby
Hidden 12/Sep/11 TR dog
Jonathan Emett 08/Sep/11 Lead dnf

lead past the hard bit. too knackered & scared to carry on :(

with toby
Toby Dunn 08/Sep/11 Lead
Tris.w 04/Sep/11 Lead RP

Best 7b ever?

with sash.c
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead dog
Dan Jenkin 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S

amazingly steep, sustained climbing on good holds, so much fun & not as polished as everyone says

with Ollie Benzie, James Marshall
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead β
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead β
Jonathan Emett 19/Aug/11 TR dog

2 dismally unsuccessful tr attempts.

Hidden 18/Aug/11 Lead dog
quiffhanger 14/Aug/11 Lead RP

Nice but slipped of super-polish foothold on the on-site attempt. Dragged my way up feeling v tired on the 3rd go with some horrendous shaky climbing - not pretty.

Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead RP
lojant 11/Aug/11 Lead dnf
with Pawel Gregorczyk
lojant 11/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Pawel Gregorczyk
lojant 11/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Pawel Gregorczyk
lojant 11/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Pawel Gregorczyk
felixthelion 11/Aug/11 Lead β

Would like to claim the onsight but dont think i can as i watched a guy fall off the crux and sort of worked out a sequence before getting on. Will take the flash. No hard moves but sustained. Absolutely brilliant route. 7b

with Dan craig
Chris Ellyatt 03/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Found it very hard. Will go back to try again next year!

with Craig Potter
Bristoldave 02/Aug/11 Lead RP
with Finn
drysori 31/Jul/11 Lead dog

Very sore fingers after yesterday and a bit too pumpy for me at the moment.

Ricky Rocks 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Well pumpy, total classic..

highrepute 09/Jul/11 Lead RP
Joe Costello 09/Jul/11 Lead RP
with Ellie, James, Liam
tom harrison ?/Jul/11 -
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead β
Pippa 26/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Jon
Chris_barr 11/Jun/11 Lead RP


with Dave
Dave Searle 08/Jun/11 Lead RP
Ed Booth 29/May/11 Lead RP

Should have flashed. Did second go. Fr7b...

Adam Booth 28/May/11 TR dog

Shame its so polished.

Hidden 28/May/11 Lead dog
Glyn 23/May/11 Lead RP

On my birthday! first red point. probably the best sport route iv done in the UK

with Amy
lukehunt 23/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sam Dewhurst
Ciro 22/May/11 Lead RP
mark_wellin 21/May/11 Lead dog

flashed to the 4th(?) bolt and then backed off like a puss. quite polished and very chalky but some cool moves

Ramon Marin 21/May/11 Lead rpt
with Adrian Baxter
chris j 17/May/11 Lead RP
with Nick Saunders
Hidden 17/May/11 Lead RP
Kevster 14/May/11 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 13/May/11 TR dog

3 gos. got the moves. had it clean to the triangular pocket but put the wrong hand up (right) and couldn't match. doh.

with duncan
Hidden 07/May/11 TR dnf
willsm11 01/May/11 Lead RP

Really good

with Buster
marcpontin ?/May/11 Lead RP
with huw
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead
Spacetourist ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S


with Rosea
Cailean Harker 15/Mar/11 Lead O/S
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 -
adam cooper*super* 10/Nov/10 Lead rpt

wow, stunning route and glad to of done it clean. really felt good :)

Hidden 23/Oct/10 Lead RP
dan gibson 23/Oct/10 Lead RP
with michael porter
John Henry Wynn 19/Oct/10 Lead rpt

Having climbed in places like Ceuse and Kalymnos this is still my favourite route of all time!

with Simon Downing
eddieclimb 07/Sep/10 Lead RP

1st rp

with Rebecca Edwards
Hidden 29/Aug/10 TR dog
La Mont 29/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead RP
alaan 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead RP
Alex Mason 30/Jul/10 Lead β

Sick. Fighting all the way, was tired from the off. Brilliant big moves on big ass holds.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 30/Jul/10 Lead RP

Pumpy pumperoo! Brilliant dynamic moves between mostly good holds on steep rock. Stamina helps, and working this route will develop stamina like nothin else!

thomb 10/Jul/10 Lead
colesy 10/Jul/10 Lead RP

Awesome, brilliant moves, sustained

sparkass 10/Jul/10 Lead RP

2nd go. Very good - nice and pumpy.

Luke Dawson 09/Jul/10 Lead rpt

amazing route though i think its easy for 7b good as any 7b in france or spain similar style 2 did 4 laps on this with very little res inbetween defo not 7b+ easy 7b

Hidden 04/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Jun/10 TR dog
Hidden 19/Jun/10 TR dog
Jack_F 15/Jun/10 Lead

What an amazing route!

with jerome
Hidden 06/Jun/10 TR dog
Hidden 05/Jun/10 TR dnf
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead RP
francois 05/Jun/10 TR dnf

Couldn't get to the second bolt. Need to get stronger.

with Chawn
raku 20/May/10 Lead RP
andybfreeman 15/May/10 Lead RP

Sweet power endurance work out, great fun!

Hidden 03/May/10 TR dog
Will_Murray ?/May/10 Lead

A good milestone to tick by! such a good route

Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Justin T 23/Apr/10 Lead RP

At last! Feeling pretty rough back on this first time for a good few months and with a stinking headache but it went.

pezzerrr 19/Apr/10 Lead O/S
John Henry Wynn 17/Apr/10 Lead

Best Route in the south west!!!!

with Will Murray
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Mar/10 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2010 -
Garrouli ??/2010 Lead RP
with Mark, Pete
gazhbo ??/2010 Lead RP
tom169 17/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Dom
Richard Hall 12/Oct/09 Lead RP

Finally! Warmed up bolt to bolt and got it first redpoint. Has been a long time coming, 3rd trip! Hard 7b. Amazing route.

with James Marshall
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead RP
w.pettet-smith 18/Sep/09 Lead dog

bolt to bolt it was so easy! all in one go it was not. need to get fitter methinks.

with josh
Morgan Woods 05/Sep/09 Lead RP

Brilliant route....one of the best of the grade.....and perhaps one of the best of any in the country. Nothing cruxy but putting it all together is a challenge. Good holds and very steep so quite a unique climb for the UK

with Iain
hippo99 ?/Sep/09 Lead RP
with rache, joe
jondude 29/Aug/09 -
bigie bob 22/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 07/Jul/09 2nd dog

Brutal. Way off.

with Tom
Billg 27/Jun/09 Lead RP
with James Kauntze
dannyboy83 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
feilx 13/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Angus
dmoir 13/Jun/09 Lead RP
angusaussie 13/Jun/09 Lead RP
Paz 30/May/09 Lead dog

Must try harder.

with MT
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead RP
Hidden 14/May/09 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC ?/Mar/09 Lead RP

Tried this back in 1988 pre-bolts.

with Mark Glaister
JeromeT ??/2009 Lead RP
Dave Searle 26/Sep/08 Lead RP

top ropped it once then lead it. way hay!

with dave
Paz 22/Sep/08 Lead dog

Put the clips in from ab for one last ditch end of day all or nothing attempt, and only got past bolt 3 again.

with AB, MT, EB
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead β
Paz 21/Sep/08 Lead dog

Failed the retro flash, and the 2 RPs on this particular day, but felt like I was fucking it up or burning out rather than getting totally spanked like before, which was nice.

with AB, MT, EB
Hidden 19/Sep/08 TR dog
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead RP
Marti999 15/Nov/07 Lead RP
lx 02/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with alison
Hidden 28/Aug/07 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Paz 07/Jun/06 Lead dog

Got just past the third clip three times.

with AB, AS
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead RP
Paz 12/Apr/06 Lead dog

Dry enough.

with AS
tuftynick ??/2005 Lead RP
_m.cox_ ??/2005 Lead RP
with Adam Mulholland
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
westyb3 ??/2003 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Davros the Psyched ??/2000 Lead RP
robyn1 ??/1996 -
robyn1 ??/1996 -
FATBOYFAT ??/1996 Lead RP

One move short of the flash - gutted ...

Hidden ??/1995 Lead
pmot ?/Sep/93 TR RP
with Mr Lizard
mattnuttall 04/Aug/93 Lead β

was given E6 6a/6b ... which sounds much better to me!

with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Steve Crowe 11/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with KM
pmot ??/1993 TR RP
Cowflinger ?/Aug/92 Lead
Cowflinger ?/Jul/92 Lead RP
shark ??/1992 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/91 Lead β
Mike Owen 14/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
frank ramsay ??/1989 -

Flashed with beta from Nick

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High 7c
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Votes cast 103
Votes cast 91
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set