15m.

Rockfax Description
A very impressive sport route. Start at the sloping shelf that cuts in from the right.
Stand on the shelf and move up to a thin break. Move right and use a finger-crack and sloping holds to reach a good finger pocket. Use the pocket to gain a jug that allows a shake-out before the final bouldery upper wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A very impressive sport route. Start at the sloping shelf that cuts in from the right.
14m. Stand on the shelf and move up to a thin break. Move right and use a finger-crack and sloping holds to reach a good finger pocket. Use the pocket to gain a jug that allows a shake-out before the final bouldery upper wall.

FA. Nick White 1988

Ticklists: THE classic old skool 8a's, The road to 8a, West Country Climbs, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Classic Anstey's, South West 8's.


ClimberDateStyle
AJM 25/Sep Lead dog

Key links - sika to chains, second to fourth, ground to post-sika unwind. It's coming together, just slowly.

blaza1 22/Sep Lead dog

Fell off the top.

with mark tomlinson
blaza1 16/Sep Lead dog
Matt.c.Warner 31/Aug Lead RP

Unexpectedly did this on my second go today after years of coming down to try it.

with fred
BenNorman 14/Aug Lead dnf

One quick burn before sunset, fell off going into fingerlock, so much fun

chakrit 18/Jun Lead RP

Great route https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8mhu7Zl3y8

with Gary, Rob
misterb ?/Jun Lead dog

ha ha, HARD

with justin
blaza1 29/May Lead dog

Fell at the second crux

blaza1 23/May Lead dog
with liam jones, i_a_coops, Freya
Gus 04/May Lead dog

Awesome, basic route!

brices 17/Apr Lead dog
AJM 17/Apr Lead dog

Progress. Into crux from the ground and decent links of the rest.

Glyn 09/Apr Lead RP

4th rpt of the day, working out a different sequence for the top made all the difference

with Jonny
andy south devon 22/Mar Lead RP
JM 13/Mar Lead RP
with Anna Reiners
Hidden 12/Mar Lead dog
AJM 12/Mar Lead dog
Tom Corras 27/Sep/15 Lead dog
will smith11 30/Aug/15 Lead RP

Tried this a couple times years ago. 2nd go today.

with Chris Lancaster
Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead dog
Davros the Psyched 08/Jun/15 Lead rpt
jonleighton 06/Jun/15 Lead RP

My first 8a, finally done after working it over 6 separate weekends during the course of about a year :)

Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead RP
grey wolf 14/Apr/15 Lead β

Glad to make this happen!

rhoslynfrugtniet 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
with dan dyson
brices 21/Mar/15 Lead dog

In two halfs,

with Llinos
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead RP
i_a_coops 04/Oct/14 -
with Ross, Jenny
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 29/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Dave Ferguson
Jack_F 08/Aug/14 Lead RP

Good conditions and a slight change of beta was all it needed

lewisrichardson 03/Aug/14 Lead RP

so so psyched after so many falls on the last move it has finally gone!!!!!

with dad
adam cooper*super* 09/Jul/14 Lead RP

Sweet

BenNorman 05/Jul/14 Lead dnf

From floor to sika crimp and from slot to top, didn't have a go next day as far too sunny, will go back in an evening and should go!

Hidden 20/Jun/14 Lead RP
El3ctroFuzz 16/Jun/14 Lead RP

Yay..

with Elaine Budden
jfreeman 01/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Rhoslyn Frugtniet
Pajamas Tom 30/May/14 Lead RP

Did not expect to get this! First time sport climbing in 6 months :)

KDSclimber 27/May/14 Lead dnf

got above 2nd clip.

with Richard
3 Names 27/Sep/13 Lead dog
3 Names 23/Sep/13 Lead dog
with David Proctor, Ed Bulman
emily_allen 18/Aug/13 Lead dog
3 Names 17/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
3 Names 16/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
BenNorman 04/Aug/13 Lead dnf

3 x 2 overlapping halves, fell at foot move to pocket, on for next time!

3 Names 03/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
3 Names 02/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
BenNorman 16/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Bit too hot but great moves, everything i was promised. Some good links and will go for sure!

Mike Goldthorp 16/Jul/13 Lead RP

Yahoo! After a sweaty burn last night got up early this morning to find prime conditions and with the dialled beta I had it felt so smooth on the redpoint, so chuffed! First limestone 8a with a rope

Cailean Harker 15/Jul/13 Lead RP

Tried about 3 years ago but got stuck into other projects.Climbed 2ng go this year. Sweet stuff.

quiffhanger 06/Jul/13 Lead RP

First go of the day - felt a lot easier fresh with good conditions and all the beta.

quiffhanger 08/Jun/13 Lead dog

So pleased to finally get on this. It's everything I expected. Tried a good few times & got some long links but didn't have the beans for the full send. Next time. Got a reason to train now!

with Jerome
Hidden 30/May/13 Lead RP
Jeronimo 11/May/13 Lead RP

3 sessions. First UK 8a. Quality and all about the beta.

Ramon Marin 04/May/13 Lead RP

Great route. Got it done 4th redpoint attempt, I was expecting to take longer, but had the beta nailed and just went for it. Definatelt finger lock on the V-shape slot rather than slapping the slopers at the top, made it a lot easier for me

with andre hedger
Ellis Butler-Barker 23/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Wasn't having a great session on the project so trained on this for a bit. I used different beta to when I originally did the route which felt much easier!

with JackMac
Dan 85 21/Apr/13 Lead dog

Another project, first session, got all moves just about...

with Tom H W, Andy H, Ellis
Ellis Butler-Barker 02/Mar/13 Lead RP

First RP since last trying it about 6 months ago. Psyched to tick my first F8a! Happy to get this with my previous hardest route being F7b.

Cassidy 06/Aug/12 Lead RP

2nd go. Battle. Pretty sure I could have flashed this in better circumstances. Will Atkinson's stag 2012

tom106 22/Jul/12 Lead RP

so psyched - amazing climbing! 4th proper go, punched the top jug on my second....

with tom, mark, tom.
jacobjacob 19/Jun/12 Lead RP

Injured my knee twisting in the heel toe cam near the top, so I couldn't use this beta. Much harder than it kneeded to be...

Justin T 26/May/12 Lead RP
TCCB 19/Mar/12 Lead RP

Done 2nd repoint after about 5? bolt to bolts, finally got 8a before my 15th birthday! :D

paulgvooght 14/Feb/12 Lead dnf

Went to Anstey's Cove for the first time today, which is ridiculous considering i live 15 mins away from Torquay! On arrival decided to check out 'The Cidar Soak' after it being a long term project of a friends. About 2/3 up the route was a nice soaking wet seepage hole that made the right hand move above 3rd clip slightly more tricky, obviously trying to stick the move still! Wet meant we couldnt work the rest of the route but the section we did do was incredible! A great climb for my first 8a!

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 01/Sep/11 Lead RP
_m.cox_ 10/Jul/11 Lead RP
La benya 22/May/11 Lead dog

got a few good links, but doing it in a one'er is beyond me atm

bustermartin 01/May/11 Lead RP

took about 2 hours

with will smith
John Henry Wynn 23/Apr/11 Lead

Amazing movements and more technical than it looks

PeterDawson 18/Apr/11 Lead RP

Finallly got the big 8a tick

Spacetourist ?/Apr/11 Lead RP

3rd go.

with Rosea
Luke Dawson 19/Sep/10 Lead RP
alaan 05/Sep/10 Lead dog

First 'look'. Worked out a sequence - top moves are heartbreakers!

with Sabby
pezzerrr 07/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
Luke d ??/2010 -

soooooooo want to try this

TheGuns 05/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Egyption move got me

with Henry
ashwah 02/May/09 Lead RP
bigie bob 19/Jul/08 Lead RP
lx 02/Oct/07 Lead

2nd redpoint.... just!

with alison
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 Lead RP
westyb3 16/Oct/04 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2003 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead RP
Mike Owen 12/Aug/92 Lead RP
with Elaine Owen
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
serby, mr_cf, beefy_legacy, DrGav, Hidden, RFWilkie, yan hawkins, Hidden, sirbrain, JKinsella, Hidden, brices, LouisJones, KiaranR, Davros the Psyched, Hidden, chrisclimber, lewiz, Hidden, Ian Ash, tom russell, Oliver Tilbury, Pete Scott, Tommyads, Hidden, stp, pOi, Nick Russell, Hidden, BenNorman, Hidden, JRae, Hidden, Tangerine_Kingdom, Dale Turrell, Hidden, Hidden, lukeh, Hidden, Hidden, tom106, Hidden, Hidden, Ed morris, peaches69, MH123, eugeneth, Dan Jenkin, little_tammy, JimPope, lewisrichardson1, Hidden, Hidden, Mike W, Nick Saunders, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Andrew Barker, Mike Goldthorp, Hidden, adam cooper*super*, Will_Murray, andybfreeman, Luke d, Hidden, Hidden, schof, Goonie, Ezy Ryder, Hidden, Hidden, Jake Shaw, Hidden, Dave Searle, derico, Hidden, Hidden
Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set