Devon > Anstey's Cove >
 
American Express** 7a+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Dumb Blonde
 
Torbay or Not Torbay >>
[American Express, 2 kb]10m. Tendon-twanging technicalities are the order of the day on this fine micro challenge. Start just left of the slim groove of Cocytus. 13m. Boulder up to a pocket and the first bolt. Make progress on tiny crimps to a long reach for a good hold at the base of the steep finishing corner. Lower-off. © ROCKFAX
FA. Chris Nicholson, Nick White 5.84 May/1984

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: American Express © TheGuns
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 72 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

will909 - Lead RP - 14/Mar/14

Paul Robertson - Lead RP - 12/Mar/14 with Guy Percival

Need to find a way to change hands in the mono
Paul Robertson - TR dog - 05/Mar/14 with Guy Percival

guy xavier percival - Lead RP - 05/Mar/14 with paul

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Mar/14

Took me a few goes to work out the moves up to 3rd bolt. Every move is a gooden!
R2B - Lead RP - 22/Feb/14 with Rooker

Nick Biven - 2014

nickstephens - TR dog - 24/Nov/13 with Gareth Greeves

Bouldered the moves up to first pocket a few times, but too greasy/muddy to commit
jacobjohncharles - Lead dnf - 26/Oct/13

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Kate

Very delicate
Ross.Cooper - TR dog - 08/Jun/13 with Laurence Everitt

Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 30/May/13 with Jay Kay

chris j - Lead RP - 11/May/13 with Nick Saunders

Luke Dawson - Lead RP - 27/Apr/13

First RP. Thanks to the dude shouting up the beta as i went.
Ed morris - Lead RP - 03/Mar/13 with Colin

dmoir - Lead RP - 15/Feb/13 with Dave Rad

Slightly annoying to blow the onsight when my foot popped off while stood resting - lowered off then sent.
kingholmesy - Lead RP - 2013 with Colin

Jeronimo - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12

get this easily next time. too tired today, sharp monos!
rustaldo - Lead dnf - 11/Jul/12 with Jordon Fleming

Hidden - TR dog - 02/Jun/12

Love. Sex. American Express. Extended 3rd bolt. Makes sense!
Jon_Warner - Lead RP - 26/May/12 with Jenni

Hidden - TR dog - 26/May/12

first 7. 1st go today
misterb - Lead rpt - 13/May/12 with bob

Rob Pitt - Lead RP - 06/Apr/12 with Nick Saunders

Bristoldave - Lead RP - 24/Mar/12 with Dale, Finn

Boulder to get to the first bolt.
M Bryan - Sent dnf - 18/Mar/12 with Chris Mock

Dale Turrell - 2nd dog - 14/Mar/12 with Finn, Dave

Alex Norman - Lead RP - 15/Feb/12 with will black

awesome route.
will black - Lead RP - 15/Feb/12

Scary!
Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/12 with Lewis Richardson

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/Jan/12

Hidden - 2012

M Bryan - TR dnf - 30/Oct/11 with Dan Walker, Chris Mock

Hidden - Lead RP - 12/Sep/11

Jonathan Emett - TR dog - 08/Sep/11 with toby

Oddjob - Lead RP - 27/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Jun/11

Pippa - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Jon

PeterDawson - Lead RP - 2011

Hidden - TR dog - 07/Nov/10

Hidden - TR dog - 07/Nov/10

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - Nov/10

gg4419 - TR dog - Sep/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/Aug/10

Hidden - TR dog - 19/Aug/10

1st rp
eddieclimb - Lead RP - 18/Jul/10 with Rebecca Edwards

sparkass - Lead RP - 11/Jul/10 with Mark Waltham

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/May/10

Hidden - TR dnf - 25/Apr/10

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/10

raku - TR dog - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Nov/09

1 or 2 footholds were a bit greasy after a shower. I wished one of the bolts was about 2 feet lower - felt sketchy with my feet above the previous bolt!
Billg - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09 with James Kauntze

dannyboy83 - Lead RP - 13/Jun/09 with Dave Moir

those mono pockets hurt! tiny foot holds too.by the time i had worked out all the moves, i was knackered. will be back.
w.pettet-smith - Lead dog - May/09 with josh

Greasy, jumped off start a couple of times on redpoint, fantastic lunge at top (can be done static on slopers with good conditions).
Justin T - Lead RP - 14/Mar/09 with Crispin

TheGuns - 2009

Hidden - Lead β - 22/Sep/08

1st RP after a thorough working cia Cocytus to get the 3rd clip in. Mono tastic. just independent of the arete, and just static, but doesn't really matter.
Paz - Lead RP - 22/Sep/08 with AB, MT, EB

feilx - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/06 with Sue Hazel

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead RP - 2005

andy_pemberton - Lead - 2000

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 28/Aug/94 with Simon Coles, Eugene Travers-Jones

shark - Lead - 1994

was given E46b
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1993

Hidden - Lead - 1992

shark - Lead dnf - 12/Oct/87 with Nick White

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jacobjohncharles, Kate Edhouse, archiecb, Dave Searle

Voting
Total votes cast 41
hard 7b0 of 20
7b0 of 20
easy 7b3 of 20
hard 7a+2 of 20
7a+12 of 20
easy 7a+2 of 20
hard 7a1 of 20
7a0 of 20
easy 7a0 of 20
3 Stars2 of 21
2 Stars11 of 21
1 Star8 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead53 of 72 (73.6%)
Followed1 of 72 (1.4%)
Toproped13 of 72 (18.1%)
Bouldered1 of 72 (1.4%)
Unknown4 of 72 (5.6%)

'Climbed'8 of 72 (11.1%)
clean O/S10 of 72 (13.9%)
clean β2 of 72 (2.8%)
clean rpt1 of 72 (1.4%)
clean RP29 of 72 (40.3%)
dogged15 of 72 (20.8%)
dnf7 of 72 (9.7%)