P1+2. Peg on p1 is broken and useless, feels bold without it. P2 is really fantastic and gobbles medium wires. LJC - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Theo
2nd pitch whilst getting slightly dark. Swung off trying to get in-situ grey nut out
theocelano - 2nd - 29/Mar/14 with luca
willhornby - Lead - 11/Mar/14
Bugger, missed a right hand side pull and fell off halfway through the headwall. Led P2. Great route.
Mr Tickle - AltLd dog - 09/Mar/14 with RusseyB
Ace route. Led P1.
R2B - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Rooker
Cool climbing felt tricky to gain the rising traverse but keep going once you do
hornbywill - 02/Mar/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/13
guy757 - 21/Aug/13 with John Frost
Tres Magnifique! Quite tough for E1.
Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Tammy
Great climbing, led both pitches. P1 felt runout but only one or two techy moves before the mantle.
Pajamas Tom - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13
Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Dan S
Dale Turrell - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/13 with Finn
Dibdawg - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Dean Merchant
Climbed in a single pitch
Dean177 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Ana
Lead the 2nd pitch.
The first was harder than expected, solid e1 and would have been a scary lead.
The 2nd was the opposite, well protected, strenuous and pumpy. Felt harder than it should have been because I got psyched out and therefore quite pumped.
Ace route, great exposure. Tough at the grade. Super
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/13 with Andrew Owen
Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - Apr/13 with David Coley
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 28/Mar/13
Lead first pitch but beaten by the more difficult 2nd pitch - soo pumped!
stevorobs3 - Lead dnf - 28/Mar/13 with andy howell, David Brock
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Colin
Led p2, got a bit offline after the roof which added spice. Superb rock on the headwall.
AJM - AltLd O/S - 29/Nov/12 with Mike Goldthorp
Yeah a top route, lead the first pitch which took some thinking about to avoid a couple of wet streaks, but yielded some really nice techy and quite bold climbing. Top pitch is what its all about I reckon, amazing climbing and exposure!
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 29/Nov/12 with Andy
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 11/Nov/12
Ellen Cobby - 2nd dog - 16/Sep/12 with Adam Booth
Brilliant route. Easy but scary first pitch, safe but sustained second pitch. Was thinking of running the pitches together - glad I didn't! Awesome!
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Ellen Cobby
First pitch is very run out for E1. Not sure whether I did moves to ledge correct way but did not feel like easy 5a either. Felt like falling not an option. Could not find rp/small wires mentioned by others. Fight with stupid massive bramble bush off belay ledge - blackberries not even ripe!
Dan Dyson - Lead O/S - Sep/12
Led top pitch. FANTASTIC!
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook
Fantastic route with two brilliant yet contrasting pitches. I would say around middle to upper end E1, with no very obvious cruxes but highly sustained sections.
(led pitch 1)
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies
lead pitch 1 finished on Great western
martin clarke - AltLd dnf - 23/Jun/12 with john frost
davesimpson - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/12 with Dean Russel
needs re-doing. led p1 great western, fall on traverse of spider (was I think off route)
steveprice.exmouth - AltLd dnf - 29/May/12 with David Coley
Davebryant - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/12 with Sam Hann
sam.hann - AltLd - 17/Apr/12 with Davebryant
Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/12
Apologies to the people on the neighbouring route for the obsenities whilst doing the Elvis impression :o) Great route even if a little daunting at one point.
nickstephens - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Dan Haberson-Butcher
Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Mar/12
Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/12 with Ian B
markfromstoke - 2nd - 12/Mar/12 with Ian
ian d f - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Mark
Increadible climbing but pulling the crux made me feal violently sick. Retched whilst resting on a cam in the top wall and finished easily. Stupid not to have breakfast stupid.
Ed morris - Lead - 19/Feb/12 with Jack
great climb - enjoyed the variation. Single fall after the crux
Jack J Keogan - 2nd dog - 18/Feb/12 with Ed Morris
JevonJennings - AltLd - 2012
burto - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with hertha
Brilliant on the head wall, tough for the grade
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Oct/11
Really enjoyed the climb, pleased to get the onsight as it was a tough climb.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/11 with Will
Led both pitches. Superb climb. The peg may be snapped, but it can still be used.
TommityP - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/11
P1&P2, Totally different, but both great climbs
dale1968 - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/11 with Tom
wolverine - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Matt Sparkes
Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Mike Hayes
Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11
In one epic pitch!
GPN - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Annette
Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/11
Led both pitches. First one went ok until the last bold bit, which turned out not too bold thanks to a crafty semi-useless spiked sling and an RP which seemed ok.
The second pitch is stella limestone E1/2 territory... Very flash!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/11
pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/11
Nicola - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Lee
Chris_barr - AltLd - 09/Jun/11 with Dave
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11 with Tom Thorne
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11
As a single pitch in the rain. Didn't read the guidebook properly so from the endof pitch 1 inadvertantly finished up the VS to the left.
jameshiggins - Lead O/S - 26/May/11 with Neil Adams
jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 26/May/11 with Carol
Carol Goodall - 2nd - 26/May/11 with Jonnie Williams
Luke90 - AltLd O/S - 22/May/11 with Tom
Sophie Nunn - AltLd - 21/May/11 with Tiff, Alex
TiffTiff - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Sophie, Alex
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11 with Tiff, Sophie
Hidden - Lead - 10/May/11
kdalzell - 2nd - 29/Apr/11 with Liam Fleming
Liam FLeming - Lead - 29/Apr/11
PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Special Robin
Popkids - 2nd rpt - 10/Apr/11 with Nolan
paultaylor - Lead - 10/Apr/11 with Little John
First E1! No issues with the moves or boldness of p1. Really struggled with second pitch but after climbing up/down a few times to work out moves, finished clean. Epic.
lewiz - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Vlad Vishnyakov
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Apr/11
Pitch 1 only finished up GW
nick hawkins - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/11 with Jez
Ld P1 of this and then onto GW. Mega bold without the now snapped peg.
jezb1 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/11
Missing peg on pitch one, made for heady climbing too belay. Huge block fallen from top pitch!
Overall E2 5b, 5c
landskip - Lead - Apr/11 with Tall Paul
nickdonohue - AltLd - Apr/11 with Dave Coley
Took a fall off the crux leading the second pitch. The critical (to avoid fear) peg on the first pitch has snapped so pretty bold lead now - Brilliant though
Alasdair88 - AltLd dog - 23/Mar/11 with Joe Urwin
We had an epic. I led the first pitch clean but incredibly slowly as couldn't commit to slabby moves miles above gear for ages. The peg in the middle of the slabby bit has snapped. Top pitch (which I fell off following) is in complete contrast, very pumpy. Amazing route! bottom pitch definitely E1 5a to lead.
joeurwin - AltLd dog - 23/Mar/11 with al franks
markv21 - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/11
Lead P1. Couple of micros around old peg. I thought that with no peg it made P1 even better! Sterling lead by Jay on P2 - was fairly pumped following. Great climbing :-)
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/11 with Jay Jackson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11
Ha! perfect route to get you scared and shakey, loved it! 2nd pitch was fun and would recommend to any well established 5b/5c onsighter, well saying that, some may sh!t them selfs like i did!
adam cooper*super* - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11 with jack folland
Not a bad attempt at my first E1, done the first pitch O/S, but got scared off the second pitch. Definitely will come back some day and do it all in one go as recommended
Haydn Jones - Lead dnf - 30/Jan/11 with ewanthomson
James Mitchelmore - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/10
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with CarolineH
Kopinski - Lead β - 15/Oct/10
Tim M - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Emma
climbergg - 2nd - 12/Sep/10 with cheesesarnie
jcook1980 - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Dan Walker
Richard Horn - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10
La Mont - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Rich Horn
fantastic climbing with exposed technical climbing with some easy but good moves through the overhangs
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Remus Knowles
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Aug/10
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/10
I led first pitch, Neil led second. Thought his pitch was very top-end for E1. Heat was mental which didnt help. Mine was quite soft, only just 5a maybe although obviously bold (I tied off the broken peg but more for amusement value than anything else).
PS the peg should be taken out and not replaced. It is not necessary at the grade of E1 (even without the microwires which could give you marginal gear if you had the right size) and is just an eyesore.
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Neil Furniss
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/10
Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/10
Peg broken on first pitch.
Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10 with GF
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10
Ed Lau - 2nd - 26/Jul/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/10
petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10
The first time I've actually led both pitches, strangely enough.
Justin T - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/10 with Luke
led 2nd pitch. fantastic.
w.pettet-smith - AltLd - 31/Oct/09 with steve
Lead first pitch of the Fly as peg on Spider first pitch chopped through eye - stub still there blocking the micro-wire placement.
chris j - Lead rpt - 03/Oct/09 with Doug
Lead first pitch
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Charlie Everett
Kate Edhouse - 2nd - 05/Sep/09 with James Clapham
The crux bulge on the top pitch is pumpy. Protected below and ran it out rather than hang around trying to place gear.
rockferret - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Pedro
Fantastic climb but for established E1 climbers. Very pumpy second pitch finishing on fingery and sparse holds. Came off once getting under the first overhang and again on the top slab. Finished absolutely shattered.
pedro.silva - 2nd dog - 25/Jul/09 with Martin B
I thought this route was excellant.What a great lead from Phil.I found it bold in the middle of the first pitch and the last pitch,well what can I say what a stunner.
Popkids - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Phil
Excellent route. First pitch is great, 2nd pitch is fantastic!
Phil79 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Tony
led second pitch , good crux
misterb - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/09 with sim
All in one pitch. About 20 runners, plus a few slings. Excellent, wild, tiring.
Steerpike - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/09 with Bish
lead 1st pitch
misterb - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/09 with sim
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/09 with Max hodges
MH123 - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/09 with Jack Folland
tonanf - AltLd - Jun/09 with burt
tskelhon - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with John_Warner
Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/May/09
raku - Lead O/S - 01/May/09 with Beata Rakowska
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with rory
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/09
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - Jan/09
briar4012 - 2nd dog - 27/Dec/08 with Nolan and Pete
Lead 2nd pitch. Great route! Two totally contrasting pitches. One delicate and the other pumpy and juggy.
Reeges - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/08 with Nick Saunders
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/08
panicked at finish!
thomb - Lead O/S - Oct/08 with Harry
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/Sep/08
Very good top pitch - peg in description missing, but unnecessary. New peg in lower pitch.
Ally Smith - Lead - 25/Aug/08 with Emily Goodman
Me 1st, Tom 2nd.. Yes i see why people are complaining about the peg.. but wouldv'e been stupid not to clip it! Second pitch = amazing.
Jon_Warner - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/08 with Tom
AJH - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Crispin
sharmawho? - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/08 with Dave
Steerpike - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/08 with Tommo
dewrats - Lead O/S - 2008 with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr
sharmawho? - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave
nopants - AltLd - 2008
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/07
Led P2 with some gear pre-placed and use of tree for aid :)
Justin T - AltLd β - 14/Oct/07 with Crispin
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07
Both pitches lead. Peg is pretty pointless. There is a micro placement just above and a sideways nut next to the peg that are adequate. The moves from the ledge to the tree on p2 are just great, but pumpy.
richardr - Lead O/S - Aug/07
Dave Searle - Lead - 02/Jun/07 with mark
Took a fall or had a rest on P2 so should be 'dogged' but put as 'lead' so it would count for the Littlejohn SW Climbs ticklist
Misha - Lead - 26/May/07
Brilliant. Taking the new peg out of pitch 1 would make this quite spicy, and aux naturel if strung into one big one though there's a micro up and right (then back left on to the ledge which is how I climbed it).
Paz - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/07 with SB
misterb - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/07 with sim
Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/07 with jim
Rob Kennard - 2007
climber sim - 2007
OliBoyes - 2007 with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle
jmhood - Lead β - 2007 with Wayne Miller
feilx - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06 with Seb
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/06
nathanmanc - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/06 with Chris Todd
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/06
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/06
bronsonite - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/06 with Alex Cannon
chris j - Lead rpt - 12/Jun/06 with Chawn
Bern - 2006
Marti999 - Lead - 2006
Ben1983 - Lead rpt - Jul/05
Okecroak - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/04 with C. Ebbutt
cem - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/04 with Graham Dolman
Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/03
aged_ape - Lead β - May/03 with Rob T
Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/03
Roget - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/00
colin milton - AltLd - 03/Aug/95 with eric milton
leadmat - Lead - Jul/95
Steve did final pitch after i fell. good route
ellie macpherson - AltLd - Jul/95 with Steve Taylor, Ian Holmes
tuftynick - Lead - 1995 with ben winston
Mark Kemball - 17/Apr/94 with Matt Vigg
kristian - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/94
sdht - 1994
pmot - 2nd O/S - 1993 with Dave
Hidden - Lead - 14/Sep/90
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/90
Pete Nugent - Lead - 12/Feb/89
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/88
A superb climb. Led it three times in late 80s: the crux used to have a semi-detached jug. That went awol somewhere around late 88, leaving a sidepull. Did it in white flares once! My second took a good pendulum off the crux and (being belayed to a few spindly bushes) I found myself sitting over the edge of the cliff watching him go. Lowered off, and then he promptly untied and soloed down something around VS. It was a good (proper job) pendule. It was the slab move above the crux overlap before the tree. Did I say it's a brilliant climb?
davidalcock - 1988 with Philip Scorer
Nick Biven - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/86
Richard Weller - AltLd - 19/May/85 with Julian Sampson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/84
Ena - AltLd - Jul/83 with Martin Trouse
mark-abz - 2nd - 14/Apr/81 with Walter P
What idiot put a peg in the first pitch???? A great climb ruined
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 1980 with bunny
Hidden - 1979