The Spider*** E1 5b
[Matt finishing pitch 1 of The Spider, 3 kb]2 pitches. Magnificent sustained and varied climbing. Best done as one huge pitch with the crux perched on the hanging shield of quality rock at the very top of the Western Tower. 1) 5a. Start beneath the diagonal crack as for The Fly. Gain and climb the diagonal crack to a horizontal break. Mantleshelf on to a large hold in the scoop above and move up left with care to belay. 2) 5b. Move up and right to the left side of a block overhang in the middle of the face. Climb on to a ledge on its top. Move up to a steep groove and breakthrough on to the upper wall. Thin cracks and small holds lead to a little tree. Continue up the easier wall behind to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. F.Cannings 1964 15/Jun/1964

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Matt finishing pitch 1 of The Spider © Kafoozalem
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 213 logbooks, and on 27 wishlists.

First pitch. Eric led the second
edinbed - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/14

LDJ - Lead - 03/Oct/14 with Lou

Done in one pitch, outstanding route ***
brew_guru - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/14 with alex

Led the second pitch, sensational!
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/14

Led P1, backed off P2 due to darkness.
DredStripe - Lead dnf - 23/Sep/14

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Kirsty Kerr

P1 only as it was getting dark. Quite exciting position on the slab
francois - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/14 with Chawn

lawsy_boy1 - Lead O/S - Aug/14

pitch 2
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Tom Nichols

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14

First pitch is bold without the broken peg. Second pitch is technical and a little strenuous but it's well protected and is satisfying climbing. One of those routes where i topped out with a big grin on my face
Alan100 - AltLd - 25/May/14

andy_pemberton - AltLd - 07/May/14 with Sarah Massey, Steve Gibson

Lovely climb, great end to the weekend. Lead 2nd pitch. The peg on the first pitch wasn't quite the safe haven i thought it might have been for my leader!
Martin Bagshaw - AltLd O/S - 05/May/14 with Ian Pegg

Matt led p1, I couldn't work out how to climb the thin crack at the top of p2 - annoying!
spragglerocks - AltLd dnf - 03/May/14 with Matt Box

Led P1 - you can clove hitch a sling around peg stump on the upper part of P1. Partner led P2 but couldn't get established on the thin crack in the upper wall. Abseiled back down before sunset.
Lumbering Oaf - AltLd dnf - 03/May/14 with Rachel Spraggs

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/14

P1+2. Peg on p1 is broken and useless, feels bold without it. P2 is really fantastic and gobbles medium wires.
LJC - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Theo

2nd pitch whilst getting slightly dark. Swung off trying to get in-situ grey nut out
theocelano - 2nd - 29/Mar/14 with luca

willhornby - Lead - 11/Mar/14

Bugger, missed a right hand side pull and fell off halfway through the headwall. Led P2. Great route.
Mr Tickle - AltLd dog - 09/Mar/14 with RusseyB

Ace route. Led P1.
R2B - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Rooker

Cool climbing felt tricky to gain the rising traverse but keep going once you do
hornbywill - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/14

Tom D - AltLd - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/13

guy757 - 21/Aug/13 with John Frost

Tres Magnifique! Quite tough for E1.
Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Tammy

Great climbing, led both pitches. P1 felt runout but only one or two techy moves before the mantle.
Pajamas Tom - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Dan S

Led P1.
Dale Turrell - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/13 with Finn

Dibdawg - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Dean Merchant

Climbed in a single pitch
Dean177 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Ana

Lead the 2nd pitch. The first was harder than expected, solid e1 and would have been a scary lead. The 2nd was the opposite, well protected, strenuous and pumpy. Felt harder than it should have been because I got psyched out and therefore quite pumped. Ace route, great exposure. Tough at the grade. Super
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/13 with Andrew Owen

Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - Apr/13 with David Coley

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 28/Mar/13

Lead first pitch but beaten by the more difficult 2nd pitch - soo pumped!
stevorobs3 - Lead dnf - 28/Mar/13 with andy howell, David Brock

Led P2.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Colin

Led p2, got a bit offline after the roof which added spice. Superb rock on the headwall.
AJM - AltLd O/S - 29/Nov/12 with Mike Goldthorp

Yeah a top route, lead the first pitch which took some thinking about to avoid a couple of wet streaks, but yielded some really nice techy and quite bold climbing. Top pitch is what its all about I reckon, amazing climbing and exposure!
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 29/Nov/12 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 11/Nov/12

Ellen Cobby - 2nd dog - 16/Sep/12 with Adam Booth

Brilliant route. Easy but scary first pitch, safe but sustained second pitch. Was thinking of running the pitches together - glad I didn't! Awesome!
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Ellen Cobby

First pitch is very run out for E1. Not sure whether I did moves to ledge correct way but did not feel like easy 5a either. Felt like falling not an option. Could not find rp/small wires mentioned by others. Fight with stupid massive bramble bush off belay ledge - blackberries not even ripe!
Dan Dyson - Lead O/S - Sep/12

Led top pitch. FANTASTIC!
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook

Fantastic route with two brilliant yet contrasting pitches. I would say around middle to upper end E1, with no very obvious cruxes but highly sustained sections. (led pitch 1)
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

lead pitch 1 finished on Great western
martin clarke - AltLd dnf - 23/Jun/12 with john frost

davesimpson - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/12 with Dean Russel

needs re-doing. led p1 great western, fall on traverse of spider (was I think off route)
steveprice.exmouth - AltLd dnf - 29/May/12 with David Coley

Davebryant - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/12 with Sam Hann

sam.hann - AltLd - 17/Apr/12 with Davebryant

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/12

Apologies to the people on the neighbouring route for the obsenities whilst doing the Elvis impression :o) Great route even if a little daunting at one point.
nickstephens - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Dan Haberson-Butcher

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Mar/12

brilliant route
Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/12 with Ian B

markfromstoke - 2nd - 12/Mar/12 with Ian

ian d f - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Mark

Increadible climbing but pulling the crux made me feal violently sick. Retched whilst resting on a cam in the top wall and finished easily. Stupid not to have breakfast stupid.
Ed morris - Lead - 19/Feb/12 with Jack

great climb - enjoyed the variation. Single fall after the crux
Jack J Keogan - 2nd dog - 18/Feb/12 with Ed Morris

JevonJennings - AltLd - 2012

burto - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with hertha

Brilliant on the head wall, tough for the grade
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Oct/11

Really enjoyed the climb, pleased to get the onsight as it was a tough climb.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/11 with Will

Led both pitches. Superb climb. The peg may be snapped, but it can still be used.
TommityP - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/11

P1&P2, Totally different, but both great climbs
dale1968 - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/11 with Tom

wolverine - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Matt Sparkes

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Mike Hayes

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11

In one epic pitch!
GPN - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Annette

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/11

Led both pitches. First one went ok until the last bold bit, which turned out not too bold thanks to a crafty semi-useless spiked sling and an RP which seemed ok. The second pitch is stella limestone E1/2 territory... Very flash!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/11

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/11

Nicola - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Lee

First pitch.
Chris_barr - AltLd - 09/Jun/11 with Dave

P2
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11

As a single pitch in the rain. Didn't read the guidebook properly so from the endof pitch 1 inadvertantly finished up the VS to the left.
jameshiggins - Lead O/S - 26/May/11 with Neil Adams

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 26/May/11 with Carol

Carol Goodall - 2nd - 26/May/11 with Jonnie Williams

Luke90 - AltLd O/S - 22/May/11 with Tom

Sophie Nunn - AltLd - 21/May/11 with Tiff, Alex

TiffTiff - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Sophie, Alex

AlexD - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11 with Tiff, Sophie

First class climb bold moves at times, interesting move to the first belay point with the snapped off peg.
Frostie - Lead - 10/May/11 with Steve Ashworth

kdalzell - 2nd - 29/Apr/11 with Liam Fleming

Liam FLeming - Lead - 29/Apr/11

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Special Robin

Popkids - 2nd rpt - 10/Apr/11 with Nolan

paultaylor - Lead - 10/Apr/11 with Little John

First E1! No issues with the moves or boldness of p1. Really struggled with second pitch but after climbing up/down a few times to work out moves, finished clean. Epic.
lewiz - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Vlad Vishnyakov

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Apr/11

Pitch 1 only finished up GW
nick hawkins - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/11 with Jez

Ld P1 of this and then onto GW. Mega bold without the now snapped peg.
jezb1 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/11

Missing peg on pitch one, made for heady climbing too belay. Huge block fallen from top pitch! Overall E2 5b, 5c
Robin Warden - Lead - Apr/11 with Tall Paul

nickdonohue - AltLd - Apr/11 with Dave Coley

Took a fall off the crux leading the second pitch. The critical (to avoid fear) peg on the first pitch has snapped so pretty bold lead now - Brilliant though
Alasdair88 - AltLd dog - 23/Mar/11 with Joe Urwin

We had an epic. I led the first pitch clean but incredibly slowly as couldn't commit to slabby moves miles above gear for ages. The peg in the middle of the slabby bit has snapped. Top pitch (which I fell off following) is in complete contrast, very pumpy. Amazing route! bottom pitch definitely E1 5a to lead.
joeurwin - AltLd dog - 23/Mar/11 with al franks

markv21 - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/11

Lead P1. Couple of micros around old peg. I thought that with no peg it made P1 even better! Sterling lead by Jay on P2 - was fairly pumped following. Great climbing :-)
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/11 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11

Ha! perfect route to get you scared and shakey, loved it! 2nd pitch was fun and would recommend to any well established 5b/5c onsighter, well saying that, some may sh!t them selfs like i did!
adam cooper*super* - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11 with jack folland

Not a bad attempt at my first E1, done the first pitch O/S, but got scared off the second pitch. Definitely will come back some day and do it all in one go as recommended
Haydn Jones - Lead dnf - 30/Jan/11 with ewanthomson

James Mitchelmore - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Nov/10

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with CarolineH

Kopinski - Lead β - 15/Oct/10

Tim M - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 12/Sep/10 with cheesesarnie

jcook1980 - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Dan Walker

Richard Horn - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10

La Mont - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Rich Horn

fantastic climbing with exposed technical climbing with some easy but good moves through the overhangs
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/10

I led first pitch, Neil led second. Thought his pitch was very top-end for E1. Heat was mental which didnt help. Mine was quite soft, only just 5a maybe although obviously bold (I tied off the broken peg but more for amusement value than anything else). PS the peg should be taken out and not replaced. It is not necessary at the grade of E1 (even without the microwires which could give you marginal gear if you had the right size) and is just an eyesore.
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/10

Peg broken on first pitch.
Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10 with GF

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Ed Lau - 2nd - 26/Jul/10

I led 1st pitch...started off i the rain expecting it to stop play...sun came out for bold part....good effort to Matt on the top pitch he placed so much gear and was on it so long!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Matt

petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10

The first time I've actually led both pitches, strangely enough.
Justin T - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/10 with Luke

led 2nd pitch. fantastic.
w.pettet-smith - AltLd - 31/Oct/09 with steve

Lead first pitch of the Fly as peg on Spider first pitch chopped through eye - stub still there blocking the micro-wire placement.
chris j - Lead rpt - 03/Oct/09 with Doug

Lead first pitch
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Charlie Everett

Kate Edhouse - 2nd - 05/Sep/09 with James Clapham

The crux bulge on the top pitch is pumpy. Protected below and ran it out rather than hang around trying to place gear.
rockferret - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Pedro

Fantastic climb but for established E1 climbers. Very pumpy second pitch finishing on fingery and sparse holds. Came off once getting under the first overhang and again on the top slab. Finished absolutely shattered.
pedro.silva - 2nd dog - 25/Jul/09 with Martin B

I thought this route was excellant.What a great lead from Phil.I found it bold in the middle of the first pitch and the last pitch,well what can I say what a stunner.
Popkids - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Phil

Excellent route. First pitch is great, 2nd pitch is fantastic!
Phil79 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Tony

led second pitch , good crux
misterb - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/09 with sim

All in one pitch. About 20 runners, plus a few slings. Excellent, wild, tiring.
Steerpike - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/09 with Bish

lead 1st pitch
misterb - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/09 with sim

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/09 with Max hodges

MH123 - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/09 with Jack Folland

tonanf - AltLd - Jun/09 with burt

tskelhon - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with John_Warner

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/May/09

approximate date
raku - Lead O/S - 01/May/09 with Beata Rakowska

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with rory

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/09

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - Jan/09

briar4012 - 2nd dog - 27/Dec/08 with Nolan and Pete

Lead 2nd pitch. Great route! Two totally contrasting pitches. One delicate and the other pumpy and juggy.
Reeges - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/08 with Nick Saunders

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/08

panicked at finish!
thomb - Lead O/S - Oct/08 with Harry

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/08

Me 1st, Tom 2nd.. Yes i see why people are complaining about the peg.. but wouldv'e been stupid not to clip it! Second pitch = amazing.
Jon_Warner - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/08 with Tom

AJH - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Crispin

sharmawho? - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/08 with Dave

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/08 with Tommo

dewrats - Lead O/S - 2008 with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr

sharmawho? - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave

nopants - AltLd - 2008

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/07

Led P2 with some gear pre-placed and use of tree for aid :)
Justin T - AltLd β - 14/Oct/07 with Crispin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07

Both pitches lead. Peg is pretty pointless. There is a micro placement just above and a sideways nut next to the peg that are adequate. The moves from the ledge to the tree on p2 are just great, but pumpy.
richardr - Lead O/S - Aug/07

Dave Searle - Lead - 02/Jun/07 with mark

Took a fall or had a rest on P2 so should be 'dogged' but put as 'lead' so it would count for the Littlejohn SW Climbs ticklist
Misha - Lead - 26/May/07

Brilliant. Taking the new peg out of pitch 1 would make this quite spicy, and aux naturel if strung into one big one though there's a micro up and right (then back left on to the ledge which is how I climbed it).
Paz - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/07 with SB

misterb - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/07 with sim

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/07 with jim

Rob Kennard - 2007

climber sim - 2007

OliBoyes - 2007 with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle

jmhood - Lead β - 2007 with Wayne Miller

feilx - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06 with Seb

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/06

nathanmanc - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/06 with Chris Todd

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/06

bronsonite - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/06 with Alex Cannon

chris j - Lead rpt - 12/Jun/06 with Chawn

Bern - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Ben1983 - Lead rpt - Jul/05

Okecroak - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/04 with C. Ebbutt

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/04 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/03

aged_ape - Lead β - May/03 with Rob T

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/03

bullybones - 2002

Roget - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/00

lead p2
colin milton - AltLd - 03/Aug/95 with eric milton

leadmat - Lead - Jul/95

Steve did final pitch after i fell. good route
ellie macpherson - AltLd - Jul/95 with Steve Taylor, Ian Holmes

tuftynick - Lead - 1995 with ben winston

Mark Kemball - 17/Apr/94 with Matt Vigg

kristian - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/94

sdht - 1994

pmot - 2nd O/S - 1993 with Dave

Hidden - Lead - 14/Sep/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/90

led p2
Pete Nugent - Lead - 12/Feb/89

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/88

A superb climb. Led it three times in late 80s: the crux used to have a semi-detached jug. That went awol somewhere around late 88, leaving a sidepull. Did it in white flares once! My second took a good pendulum off the crux and (being belayed to a few spindly bushes) I found myself sitting over the edge of the cliff watching him go. Lowered off, and then he promptly untied and soloed down something around VS. It was a good (proper job) pendule. It was the slab move above the crux overlap before the tree. Did I say it's a brilliant climb?
davidalcock - 1988 with Philip Scorer

Nick Biven - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/86

Richard Weller - AltLd - 19/May/85 with Julian Sampson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/84

Ena - AltLd - Jul/83 with Martin Trouse

mark-abz - 2nd - 14/Apr/81 with Walter P

What idiot put a peg in the first pitch???? A great climb ruined
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 1980 with bunny

Hidden - 1979

Simon cook - 1978

Simon cook - 1974

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 169
hard E20 of 59
E20 of 59
easy E27 of 59
hard E135 of 59
E117 of 59
easy E10 of 59
hard HVS0 of 59
HVS0 of 59
easy HVS0 of 59
hard 5c0 of 54
5c0 of 54
easy 5c1 of 54
hard 5b17 of 54
5b36 of 54
easy 5b0 of 54
hard 5a0 of 54
5a0 of 54
easy 5a0 of 54
3 Stars52 of 56
2 Stars3 of 56
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Style of ascent

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Clean O/S
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dogged
dnf