2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One not to be missed. Two contrasting pitches wend their way up Chudleigh's biggest chunk of limestone. Start just left of a low zigzag-crack at a small corner that leads to a ledge at 3m.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb onto the ledge and take the diagonal crack left to another ledge. Arrange gear and move left and up onto a good hold in the middle of the slab. Some bold moves gain the belay ledge up on the left. Peg and nut belays.
2) 5b, 24m. From the right side of the belay ledge move up to another smaller ledge and take the white wall above to the overhang. Climb steeply around its left side on good holds to a small ledge above. Climb direct above the ledge to a small whitish groove that allows access to the thin crack on the grey headwall, good wires. Work rightwards on thin ground to a tree stump and finish up the easier wall and cracks above. © Rockfax

FA. F.Cannings 1964 15/Jun/1964

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Hidden 04/Oct Lead dnf
LRob 02/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 20/Jun Lead O/S
with Harvey
Adam Hill 19/Jun 2nd

Super steady lead by Simon of both pitches. Difficulty getting a nut out below the P2 crux got me pumped so sat on rope. Will be back to do it clean. Nice climb.

with Simon
Rob Davies 17/Jun 2nd

Backed off lead on P1 - run-out and finishing moves on to ledge are hard. P2 is steep and sustained.

with Dave Nicol
Sam Simpson 27/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/May AltLd O/S
nickdonohue 15/May AltLd
with Andy Bisson
tom169 13/May Lead O/S
with Jamie
Lee_Meaden 12/May AltLd O/S
5210Hill 12/May AltLd O/S

First pitch. Wrapped a sling around the broken peg to relax the nerves

Brian H ?/May Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Apr Lead O/S
OllieF 02/Apr AltLd O/S

Ben had a bit of a mare on the second pitch, tough for E1... Easy E2 is more realistic, but quality route. You can clove hitch the broken peg with a thin sling - no idea if it would hold or not, but good for the head!

with Ben
Hidden 02/Apr Lead dog
Hidden ?/Apr -
Andy Moles 07/Mar AltLd O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 07/Mar AltLd


with Andy
Hidden ??/2015 -
FATBOYFAT ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Ben Russell 30/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

True to the grade. I lead P1 and Jacob lead P2. P1 has a now un-protectable slab (you could clove hitch the peg stub with a sling) this makes spicy climbing towards the in-situ belay. Classic! Will be back to lead P2

Matt Amos 28/Dec/14 Lead dnf

Lead the first pitch was halfway up the second as it got dark and I got tired so bailed. The absence of the peg on the first pitch makes for a very bold section .

with Sam O
Will Mortimer 07/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Broken peg on the first pitch leaves a scary run out up the slab. The route makes you feel a champion when topping out!

with Derwood
dbrooks 07/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch.... exciting!

with Will
edinbed 01/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

First pitch. Eric led the second

LDJ 03/Oct/14 Lead
with Lou
brew_guru 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch, outstanding route ***

Graham Westbrook 26/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led the second pitch, sensational!

DredStripe 23/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Led P1, backed off P2 due to darkness.

tobydunford 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
francois 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S

P1 only as it was getting dark. Quite exciting position on the slab

with Chawn
lawsy_boy1 ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
kennythescot 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

pitch 2

with Tom Nichols
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 15/Jun/14 2nd

(Seconded the first pitch before, but never attempted the top pitch). I found the slab below the belay really tricky again. The top pitch is really cool and super tiring. Pleased I managed it i one.

Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Alan100 25/May/14 AltLd

First pitch is bold without the broken peg. Second pitch is technical and a little strenuous but it's well protected and is satisfying climbing. One of those routes where i topped out with a big grin on my face

andy_pemberton 07/May/14 AltLd
with Sarah Massey, Steve Gibson
Martin Bagshaw 05/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lovely climb, great end to the weekend. Lead 2nd pitch. The peg on the first pitch wasn't quite the safe haven i thought it might have been for my leader!

spragglerocks 03/May/14 AltLd dnf

Matt led p1, I couldn't work out how to climb the thin crack at the top of p2 - annoying!

Lumbering Oaf 03/May/14 AltLd dnf

Led P1 - you can clove hitch a sling around peg stump on the upper part of P1. Partner led P2 but couldn't get established on the thin crack in the upper wall. Abseiled back down before sunset.

Hidden 21/Apr/14 2nd dog
LJC 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

P1+2. Peg on p1 is broken and useless, feels bold without it. P2 is really fantastic and gobbles medium wires.

with Theo
theocelano 29/Mar/14 2nd

2nd pitch whilst getting slightly dark. Swung off trying to get in-situ grey nut out

with luca
willhornby 11/Mar/14 Lead
Mr Tickle 09/Mar/14 AltLd dog

Bugger, missed a right hand side pull and fell off halfway through the headwall. Led P2. Great route.

with RusseyB
R2B 09/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Ace route. Led P1.

with Rooker
hornbywill 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Cool climbing felt tricky to gain the rising traverse but keep going once you do

Tom D ??/2014 AltLd
jamiegee97 ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
guy757 21/Aug/13 -
Joe Costello 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Tres Magnifique! Quite tough for E1.

with Tammy
Pajamas Tom 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Great climbing, led both pitches. P1 felt runout but only one or two techy moves before the mantle.

Luxulyan 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with Dan S
Dale Turrell 29/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Finn
Dibdawg 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Dean177 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Climbed in a single pitch

with Ana
James Oswald 02/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Lead the 2nd pitch. The first was harder than expected, solid e1 and would have been a scary lead. The 2nd was the opposite, well protected, strenuous and pumpy. Felt harder than it should have been because I got psyched out and therefore quite pumped. Ace route, great exposure. Tough at the grade. Super

with Andrew Owen
Derek Ryden ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with David Coley
onlyfoddington 28/Mar/13 2nd dnf

Did not attempt the second pitch (which looks hard). The ramp to the belay was hard enough.

with Steve R
stevorobs3 28/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Lead first pitch but beaten by the more difficult 2nd pitch - soo pumped!

with andy howell, David Brock
kingholmesy ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

with Colin
AJM 29/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

Led p2, got a bit offline after the roof which added spice. Superb rock on the headwall.

Mike Goldthorp 29/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

Yeah a top route, lead the first pitch which took some thinking about to avoid a couple of wet streaks, but yielded some really nice techy and quite bold climbing. Top pitch is what its all about I reckon, amazing climbing and exposure!

with Andy
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Nov/12 2nd dnf
tim.fairhall 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Hui
Ellen Cobby 16/Sep/12 2nd dog
Adam Booth 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Easy but scary first pitch, safe but sustained second pitch. Was thinking of running the pitches together - glad I didn't! Awesome!

Dan Dyson ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S

First pitch is very run out for E1. Not sure whether I did moves to ledge correct way but did not feel like easy 5a either. Felt like falling not an option. Could not find rp/small wires mentioned by others. Fight with stupid massive bramble bush off belay ledge - blackberries not even ripe!

Stanners 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch. FANTASTIC!

Quarryboy 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route with two brilliant yet contrasting pitches. I would say around middle to upper end E1, with no very obvious cruxes but highly sustained sections. (led pitch 1)

martin clarke 23/Jun/12 AltLd dnf

lead pitch 1 finished on Great western

davesimpson 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Dean Russel
steveprice.exmouth 29/May/12 AltLd dnf

needs re-doing. led p1 great western, fall on traverse of spider (was I think off route)

with David Coley
Davebryant 17/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
sam.hann 17/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 29/Mar/12 Lead rpt
nickstephens 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Apologies to the people on the neighbouring route for the obsenities whilst doing the Elvis impression :o) Great route even if a little daunting at one point.

with Dan Haberson-Butcher
Hidden 23/Mar/12 2nd dog
Mr Powly 22/Mar/12 Lead O/S

brilliant route

with Ian B
markfromstoke 12/Mar/12 2nd
with Ian
ian d f 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
Ed morris 19/Feb/12 Lead

Increadible climbing but pulling the crux made me feal violently sick. Retched whilst resting on a cam in the top wall and finished easily. Stupid not to have breakfast stupid.

with Jack
Jack J Keogan 18/Feb/12 2nd dog

great climb - enjoyed the variation. Single fall after the crux

JevonJennings ??/2012 AltLd
burto 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with hertha
Mark Warnett ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant on the head wall, tough for the grade

Jim Slater 23/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Really enjoyed the climb, pleased to get the onsight as it was a tough climb.

Hidden 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S
dale1968 21/Sep/11 2nd O/S

P1&P2, Totally different, but both great climbs

with Tom
Hidden 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Mr Sparkle 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
GPN 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S

In one epic pitch!

with Annette
Hidden 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. First one went ok until the last bold bit, which turned out not too bold thanks to a crafty semi-useless spiked sling and an RP which seemed ok. The second pitch is stella limestone E1/2 territory... Very flash!

pezzerrr 19/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Nicola 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Lee
Chris_barr 09/Jun/11 AltLd

First pitch.

with Dave
Ed Babs 28/May/11 AltLd O/S


Hidden 28/May/11 AltLd O/S
just one more 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with Svenn G
jameshiggins 26/May/11 Lead O/S

As a single pitch in the rain. Didn't read the guidebook properly so from the endof pitch 1 inadvertantly finished up the VS to the left.

with Neil Adams
jonnie3430 26/May/11 Lead O/S
with Carol
Carol Goodall 26/May/11 2nd
Luke90 22/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom
Sophie Nunn 21/May/11 AltLd
with Tiff, Alex
TiffTiff 21/May/11 2nd O/S
with Sophie, Alex
AlexD 21/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Tiff, Sophie
Frostie 10/May/11 Lead

First class climb bold moves at times, interesting move to the first belay point with the snapped off peg.

with Steve Ashworth
kdalzell 29/Apr/11 2nd
Liam FLeming 29/Apr/11 Lead
PaulTanton 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Special Robin
Popkids 10/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Nolan
paultaylor 10/Apr/11 Lead
with Little John
lewiz 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

First E1! No issues with the moves or boldness of p1. Really struggled with second pitch but after climbing up/down a few times to work out moves, finished clean. Epic.

Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd rpt
nick hawkins 01/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Pitch 1 only finished up GW

with Jez
jezb1 01/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Ld P1 of this and then onto GW. Mega bold without the now snapped peg.

Robin Warden ?/Apr/11 Lead

Missing peg on pitch one, made for heady climbing too belay. Huge block fallen from top pitch! Overall E2 5b, 5c

with Tall Paul
nickdonohue ?/Apr/11 AltLd
with Dave Coley
Alasdair88 23/Mar/11 AltLd dog

Took a fall off the crux leading the second pitch. The critical (to avoid fear) peg on the first pitch has snapped so pretty bold lead now - Brilliant though

joeurwin 23/Mar/11 AltLd dog

We had an epic. I led the first pitch clean but incredibly slowly as couldn't commit to slabby moves miles above gear for ages. The peg in the middle of the slabby bit has snapped. Top pitch (which I fell off following) is in complete contrast, very pumpy. Amazing route! bottom pitch definitely E1 5a to lead.

markv21 16/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 14/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Couple of micros around old peg. I thought that with no peg it made P1 even better! Sterling lead by Jay on P2 - was fairly pumped following. Great climbing :-)

Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
adam cooper*super* 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Ha! perfect route to get you scared and shakey, loved it! 2nd pitch was fun and would recommend to any well established 5b/5c onsighter, well saying that, some may sh!t them selfs like i did!

Haydn Jones 30/Jan/11 Lead dnf

Not a bad attempt at my first E1, done the first pitch O/S, but got scared off the second pitch. Definitely will come back some day and do it all in one go as recommended

James Mitchelmore 10/Nov/10 Lead O/S
alice fuller 01/Nov/10 2nd dog

1 rest pitch 2. Bit scared leading out the last few feet.

Bristoldave 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Kopinski 15/Oct/10 Lead β
Tim M 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 12/Sep/10 2nd
jcook1980 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Dan Walker
Richard Horn 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
La Mont 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
benkelsey 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

fantastic climbing with exposed technical climbing with some easy but good moves through the overhangs

Hidden 29/Aug/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead
Si dH 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch, Neil led second. Thought his pitch was very top-end for E1. Heat was mental which didnt help. Mine was quite soft, only just 5a maybe although obviously bold (I tied off the broken peg but more for amusement value than anything else). PS the peg should be taken out and not replaced. It is not necessary at the grade of E1 (even without the microwires which could give you marginal gear if you had the right size) and is just an eyesore.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Jessie Rushbrooke 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Peg broken on first pitch.

with GF
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ed Lau 26/Jul/10 2nd
Duncan Campbell 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

I led 1st pitch...started off i the rain expecting it to stop play...sun came out for bold part....good effort to Matt on the top pitch he placed so much gear and was on it so long!

with Matt
petecallaghan 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Justin T 15/Jun/10 Lead rpt

The first time I've actually led both pitches, strangely enough.

with Luke
w.pettet-smith 31/Oct/09 AltLd

led 2nd pitch. fantastic.

with steve
chris j 03/Oct/09 Lead rpt

Lead first pitch of the Fly as peg on Spider first pitch chopped through eye - stub still there blocking the micro-wire placement.

with Doug
tom.e 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

with Charlie Everett
Kate Edhouse 05/Sep/09 2nd
with James Clapham
rockferret 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

The crux bulge on the top pitch is pumpy. Protected below and ran it out rather than hang around trying to place gear.

with Pedro
pedro.silva 25/Jul/09 2nd dog

Fantastic climb but for established E1 climbers. Very pumpy second pitch finishing on fingery and sparse holds. Came off once getting under the first overhang and again on the top slab. Finished absolutely shattered.

Popkids 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S

I thought this route was excellant.What a great lead from Phil.I found it bold in the middle of the first pitch and the last pitch,well what can I say what a stunner.

with Phil
Phil79 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Excellent route. First pitch is great, 2nd pitch is fantastic!

with Tony
misterb 21/Jun/09 Lead rpt

led second pitch , good crux

with sim
Steerpike 18/Jun/09 Lead rpt

All in one pitch. About 20 runners, plus a few slings. Excellent, wild, tiring.

with Bish
misterb 16/Jun/09 Lead rpt

lead 1st pitch

with sim
Jack_F 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Max hodges
MH123 09/Jun/09 2nd O/S
tonanf ?/Jun/09 AltLd
with burt
tskelhon ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/May/09 2nd dog
raku 01/May/09 Lead O/S

approximate date

with Beata Rakowska
Jack_F 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with rory
Hidden 10/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
briar4012 27/Dec/08 2nd dog
with Nolan and Pete
Reeges 25/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Great route! Two totally contrasting pitches. One delicate and the other pumpy and juggy.

Hidden 25/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
thomb ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S

panicked at finish!

with Harry
Hidden 04/Sep/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Aug/08 Lead
Jon_Warner 15/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Me 1st, Tom 2nd.. Yes i see why people are complaining about the peg.. but wouldv'e been stupid not to clip it! Second pitch = amazing.

with Tom
AJH 05/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Crispin
sharmawho? 02/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
with Dave
Steerpike 18/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Tommo
dewrats ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr
sharmawho? ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave
nopants ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Justin T 14/Oct/07 AltLd β

Led P2 with some gear pre-placed and use of tree for aid :)

with Crispin
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Both pitches lead. Peg is pretty pointless. There is a micro placement just above and a sideways nut next to the peg that are adequate. The moves from the ledge to the tree on p2 are just great, but pumpy.

Dave Searle 02/Jun/07 Lead
with mark
Misha 26/May/07 Lead

Took a fall or had a rest on P2 so should be 'dogged' but put as 'lead' so it would count for the Littlejohn SW Climbs ticklist

Paz 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Taking the new peg out of pitch 1 would make this quite spicy, and aux naturel if strung into one big one though there's a micro up and right (then back left on to the ledge which is how I climbed it).

with SB
misterb 08/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with sim
Dave Searle 18/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with jim
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
OliBoyes ??/2007 -
with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle
jmhood ??/2007 Lead β
with Wayne Miller
feilx 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Seb
Hidden 02/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
nathanmanc 02/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
Hidden 14/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/06 2nd O/S
bronsonite 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
chris j 12/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Chawn
Bern ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Ben1983 ?/Jul/05 Lead rpt
Okecroak 25/Apr/04 Lead O/S
chris ebbutt 25/Apr/04 2nd dog
with Dave R.
cem 12/Apr/04 AltLd O/S

Led p2

lost.arrow 18/Oct/03 -
Samuel P 03/May/03 2nd
with Luke
aged_ape ?/May/03 Lead β
with Rob T
Hidden 04/Feb/03 Lead O/S
bullybones ??/2002 -
Roget 04/Jun/00 Lead O/S
colin milton 03/Aug/95 AltLd

lead p2

with eric milton
leadmat ?/Jul/95 Lead
ellie macpherson ?/Jul/95 AltLd

Steve did final pitch after i fell. good route

with Steve Taylor, Ian Holmes
tuftynick ??/1995 Lead
with ben winston
Mark Kemball 17/Apr/94 -
with Matt Vigg
kristian 01/Mar/94 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1994 -
pmot ??/1993 2nd O/S
with Dave
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/90 Lead
Hidden 03/May/90 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 12/Feb/89 Lead

led p2

Hidden 13/Mar/88 AltLd O/S
davidalcock ??/1988 -

A superb climb. Led it three times in late 80s: the crux used to have a semi-detached jug. That went awol somewhere around late 88, leaving a sidepull. Did it in white flares once! My second took a good pendulum off the crux and (being belayed to a few spindly bushes) I found myself sitting over the edge of the cliff watching him go. Lowered off, and then he promptly untied and soloed down something around VS. It was a good (proper job) pendule. It was the slab move above the crux overlap before the tree. Did I say it's a brilliant climb?

with Philip Scorer
Nick Biven 20/Aug/86 Lead O/S
Richard Weller 19/May/85 AltLd
with Julian Sampson
Hidden 29/Apr/84 Lead O/S
Ena ?/Jul/83 AltLd
with Martin Trouse
mark-abz 14/Apr/81 2nd
with Walter P
ecowaller ??/1980 Lead O/S

What idiot put a peg in the first pitch???? A great climb ruined

with bunny
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Simon cook ??/1978 -
D Tempest ?/Jan/76 Lead
Simon cook ??/1974 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High E2
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Votes cast 69
High 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
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Votes cast 63
Votes cast 64
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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