Devon > Chudleigh Rocks >
 
Great Western*** VS 5a

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[Kestrel chicks at Chudleigh (Gt Western belay), 4 kb]4 pitches. A long and varied climb on fine rock. Start at a small right facing corner just left of the diagonal crack of The Spider. 1) 4b. Climb the corner and wall via spaced ledges to horizontal breaks. Traverse left and pull on to the belay ledge. 2) 4b. The intricate short slab to a ledge belay. 3) 5a. Move above the belay steeply to below an overhang. Move left and gain a small corner above with a bit of a struggle. Continue to belay on the edge of buttress. 4) The edge of the buttress to the summit of the tower. © ROCKFAX
FA. N.Hannaby 1961

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Kestrel chicks at Chudleigh (Gt Western belay) © chris j
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 215 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Preston Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/13

Ran P2 & 3 together which seemed to make sense. Tough move on P3.
Dilwat - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Apr/13

Jon_Warner - Lead rpt - 07/Apr/13 with Jenni

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/13

The hard bit is a rubbish scrappy mantle! Rest of the route pretty good though. Our tat from October still making a presence on p2 belay ha
Cheese Monkey - Lead β - 04/Apr/13 with Ian M

Needed a tight rope to make the crux move.
ianmiller999 - 2nd - 04/Apr/13 with Ben Darby

Tough, pumpy and polished. HVS 5b.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/13 with Andrew Owen

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Mar/13

Hidden - 2013

Mike W - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12

My partner was rubbish and couldnt lead the horribly wet crux. I didnt want to either though! Abbed off.
Cheese Monkey - AltLd dnf - 07/Oct/12 with Goss

In two pitches, both dogged. The second was in darkness admittedly
MBano - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/12 with Neil

On-sight attempt. Got pumped after placing gear to pass the overhang on pitch 3. Will know better next time. Reached the top in darkness with no headtorch, which was interesting. Fortunately met by Steve Price with light so I could build a belay! Matt seconded with a headtorch in proper darkness.
Neil Rigiani - Lead dog - 19/Sep/12 with Matt

Hidden - Lead - 16/Sep/12

emmarowe - 2nd dog - 16/Sep/12 with ed mitchell

Hidden - 11/Sep/12

lead p1, seconded 2&3 fell off on 3, lead 4
Wendy Watthews - AltLd dog - 08/Sep/12 with arandall

Hard for the grade
arandall - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Wendy Matthews

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12

waydan - 2nd - 09/Aug/12 with El Swiftos

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/12

stevorobs3 - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12

Completed to third pitch and ran out of light so abseiled down. Route very polished, especially first pitch.
Katie Comer - TR dnf - 19/Jul/12 with Dan Cox

Chaman - 2nd rpt - 17/Jul/12 with Jason Down

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/12

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/12 with Harry Martin

Hidden - AltLd - 27/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12

teaching
DOVEY - 26/May/12 with Chris + Fran

Hidden - 2nd - 24/May/12

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 15/Apr/12 with Solly Kemball Dorey, Lee Bartrop

mark schramm - 2nd rpt - 12/Apr/12

mark schramm - 2nd - 28/Mar/12 with stuart

Sarah Welsh - 2nd dog - 28/Mar/12 with Chris Ebbutt

chris ebbutt - Lead - 28/Mar/12 with sarah

Felt good swinging leads on such a quality climb.
Ed morris - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/12 with ewan

Led Pitches 1+2 together and then pitch 4. Great fun.
ewanthomson - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/12 with Ed morris

markfromstoke - AltLd - 12/Mar/12 with Ian

3&4
ian d f - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Mark

floss_81 - Lead - 26/Feb/12 with Kathryn maddalena

Led pitches 3 and 4 (as one)
KDhruev - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Johnathan Bennet

P3 + 4
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Tom Thorne

Tom Thorne - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Ed babington

I led p2&4. We got good value out of this route: both scared ourselves on our leads. Did last pitch in the dark then headed down to locate all the nuts Jim threw off the route :-)
katherinesydney - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/12 with jim brooke

Felt a bit sandbagged on the crux pitch...
Jim Brooke - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/12 with Katherine

Lead 1st & 3rd Pitch. Dunc lead 2nd & 4th.
dparsons - AltLd O/S - 2012

twright180 - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11

Ran pitches 1 & 2 together, pitch 3 was too wet to continue. Traversed left from belay to a convenient tree.
aipattison - Lead dnf - 12/Nov/11 with UBMC

saet1a - AltLd rpt - 22/Oct/11

burto - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with hertha

The tree at the top of the Second Pitch the Tree Deserves a Plaque
bazthomas - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/11 with Steve Price, Nick Royal

Led the crux pitch, abbed off the tree as i couldnt be dealing with choss. One word.....NAILS!! Done easier E1's
stvredmond - AltLd - 09/Oct/11 with Helen Norris

Led the 1st and 2nd pitches. Nice climbing, slightly polished. Slab has a few fun moves, but the 3rd pitch is the hardest by far. 3rd Pitch sooo hard for VS. Agree with steve has 2nd easier E1's lol.
Helnorris - Lead - 09/Oct/11 with Steve Redmond

mike88 - Lead rpt - 02/Oct/11 with Hannah Good

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/11

lead pitch 2 took over lead pitch 3
martin clarke - AltLd - 25/Aug/11 with steve ashworth

stephen ashworth - AltLd - 25/Aug/11 with martin clarke

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Aug/11

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/11 with Chaman

in one pitch up to tree, ab'ed off
Chaman - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/11 with Mark Schramm

saet1a - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/11

foxjerk - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/11 with wiwwim

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jul/11

Fantastic climb! Done in 2 pitches, ground to 3 peg belay then to top from there.
Chaman - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Em Grant

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/11

Mark first pitch, I strung the next three pitches together
Gareth - AltLd RP - 25/Jun/11 with Mark, Andrew

As a three. Followed both pitches (climbed in two pitches). The 5a move through the roof is extremely polished and consequently feels very hard.
andybenham - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with Mark, Gareth Hayfield

Nicola - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Vikki, Lee

marcduhig - AltLd dog - 11/Jun/11 with Sexy Liz

Lead P1 and 2, run together. Tricky to pull onto the ledge, at least for me. Fell off crux on pitch 3 on second.
lizzie789 - AltLd dog - 11/Jun/11 with Marc Duhig

Led P1+2 as one pitch, seconded 3+4 as one pitch
Radical-G - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11

P1 of Spider into P2 of this. Unbelievably slippery in the rain!
Neil Adams - 2nd O/S - 26/May/11 with Jim Higgins

petecallaghan - AltLd rpt - 25/May/11 with David Coley

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/May/11

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11 with Tiff

led p1 and p2
TiffTiff - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11 with Sophie

Repeat. Ran pitch 1 & 2 together. The 5a crux on the 3rd pitch is tricky - exacerbated if you are tall I think! Took me a few attempts (with retreats back under the roof) - had to use a cheeky knee in the end! Great climb - 1st pitch is a bit scarce on gear though.
BelayBunney - Lead rpt - 17/May/11 with Catherine

KittyG - 2nd rpt - 17/May/11 with Chris

Lead p1, Ben ran p2+3 together and then we abbed off the p3 belay ledge tree as the heavens opened to avoid the scramble in the wet. Very little gear on p1. Slab pitch is excellent, but a little short!
LJC - AltLd O/S - 07/May/11 with ben.richards

Ran P2 + P3 together to speed things up, pumpy moves round the overhang but a bit of mental perseverance paid off! Had to ab off the tree at the top of P3 as it started raining.
ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 06/May/11 with Luca Celano

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/11

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Emma Grant, Marie Racault

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Apr/11

davenev - 20/Apr/11 with luke

Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with davenev

Jack_F - Solo O/S - 18/Apr/11

floss_81 - AltLd - 11/Apr/11 with john frost

timrowland - AltLd - 09/Apr/11 with jmjw

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Led the first pitch as one to below the roof and the triple peg belay
jmjw - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Tim R

5a pitch, committing move around the overhang.
jezb1 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/11

5a pitch-Couldn't pull round on the lead, took a small fall luckily only superficial bruise.
nick hawkins - 2nd - 01/Apr/11 with Jez

Led P1,P3. Beth's first VS lead for the short pitch 2 and the 'entertaining' pitch 4.
Neil D - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/11 with Beth Hodgett

First vs lead for short slab pitch and final esoteric pitch :)
Betha. - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/11 with Neil D

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Davebryant - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/11 with Sam Hann

Really enjoyed this one - crux move is a bit delicate!
BelayBunney - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Catherine

Led in two pitches (I led the 1st, pitches 1 & 2 in the guide).
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Stewart

KittyG - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Chris

In one pitch. Stiff final move. HVS.
TommityP - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/Feb/11

callum brown - AltLd O/S - 2011 with Jack Reed

lead pitch 1 and 2
mark schramm - AltLd rpt - 20/Oct/10 with steve P

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Oct/10

Tired to layback the exit of the roof on pitch 3 and it's not the way forward! Layback/mantle might be a better idea next time. Gear was pretty good throughout.
francois - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Tammy

little_tammy - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Francois Bocquet

RandomHero - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/10 with mark vine

wow what a route.not really polished as guides suggest.i led the 1st pitch which was sparse on pro and delicate with a bold move around a block.steve led the unprotected short slab.then i did the brilliant 3rd pitch crux of the climb an ran the easy 4th pitch in with it.
minexplorer - AltLd - 17/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 07/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with James P

Lots of styles, face climbing then a slab then a powerful awkward move. Good fun and not particularly polished
jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Mark

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/10

Steve Lenartowicz - Aug/10

I lead pitches 3 and 4, the 5a move is grim!
RandomHero - AltLd - 27/Jul/10

lead 2nd pitch
mark schramm - AltLd - Jul/10 with steve P

Lead all pitches, 3rd pitch tricky. Retro flash (o/s)
Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10 with Sarah

AJH - 13/Jun/10 with Rob

The crux is definitely getting up past the block after the peg at the beginning of the 3rd pitch
Kemics - Lead β - 05/May/10

seconded pitch one, then had to lower off due to the roof on pitch 3 seeping badly. if it is dry, then by all means go ahead. NOTE: the peg on pitch one was missing.
Aaron Phillips - 2nd dnf - 07/Apr/10 with my dad

jmhood - 2010

Not my best day... found first pitch challenging - and tough for a 4b! Then my turn to lead on pitch 2 - 5a pitch - bottled in first time... then returned after Andy had tried - and nailed it - moves actually pretty good - a great climb!
richardadventurecafe - AltLd rpt - 19/Dec/09 with Andy Owen

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/09

Clean lead of second pitch. Quality
petecallaghan - AltLd rpt - 08/Jul/09 with Alex Hartley

misterb - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/09 with sim

What a great way to spend an evening after work, brilliant route and an amazing sunset. Imagine NOT living in Devon, nightmare.I lead it all in 2 pitches, nice.
surfbish - Lead - 18/Jun/09 with Ben

Steerpike - 2nd rpt - 18/Jun/09 with Bish

adam cooper*super* - Lead β - 13/Jun/09 with rory stewart

tonanf - AltLd - Jun/09 with burt

Mancunianimport - Lead - Jun/09

tskelhon - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with John_Warner

Done in 3 pitches to the top. Thought the first (corner, traverse and slab) was probably worth 4c. Definately done easier HVS's. Wish we'd abbed off the tree belay after the crux rather than battled past brambles and loose rock at the top.
adamscottthomas - Lead - 26/May/09 with Ellen Taylor

good first pitch, hard 2nd and then brambles on the third!
ellentaylor - 2nd dog - 26/May/09 with Adam Thomas

approximate date
raku - Lead O/S - 01/May/09 with Beata Rakowska

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/09

JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Jay Jackson and Ant Smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09

Steerpike - AltLd rpt - 19/Mar/09 with Huw Tom

mike88 - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/09 with JAmes Codner

paulh1967 - 2009

Briefly pulled on the gear after retreating from the mantle shelf, will be back for the clean tick.
Phil79 - AltLd dog - Dec/08 with Baz

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/08

petellis - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/08 with Alpha Blue

GrantB - AltLd - 25/Aug/08 with Alpha Red

I led pitch 1 and 2,Martin lead the 5a pitch and then I led the last pitch.By the time we got to the top it was dark, so walking back to the bags was an adventure with only a lighter a show the way.
Popkids - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/08 with Martin

Only lead the 5a pitch. We went slightly off route on the sencond pitch so had to traverse back to the start of the 5a pitch. Topped out in near dark.
rockferret - AltLd - 23/Jul/08 with Tony

Brilliant. Stiff for VS.
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/08 with Uli

Haha what a mission. 3 people. 1 rope. Brilliant route with a hard move that could catch out VS climbers.
Jon_Warner - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/08 with Tom

gknyus - 2nd dog - 25/Jun/08 with Warner the Kurd, Tom 'Segwin' Skelhorn

AJH - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/08 with Crispin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/08

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/08 with Adam copper *super*

Climbed in series with Cherry & Ash. I led the first 2 pitches in 1, Ash did the sketch 5a moves (Pitch 3), and i led the last pitch.
buddha1369 - AltLd rpt - 03/Apr/08 with Cherry & Ash (The Mill)

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Apr/08

Steerpike - 2nd rpt - 07/Mar/08 with Tommo

henbot - 2nd - 21/Feb/08 with Sam Farnsworth

dewrats - Lead O/S - 2008 with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/07

Dave Searle - Lead - 31/Jul/07

sharmawho? - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/07 with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/07

The 5a move wakes you up
middlemarker - AltLd - 12/May/07 with Martin

quadmyre - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/07 with Wifey

Rob Kennard - 2007

climber sim - 2007

biffyat8 - 2007 with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2007

COD*OF*ROCK - Lead O/S - 2007

nopants - AltLd - 2007

Hidden - Lead dnf - 04/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead β - 11/Jun/06

richardr - May/06

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

timreynolds - AltLd - 2005 with Dave

JeromeT - Lead O/S - 2005

ElvisLeg - 2nd O/S - 23/Dec/04 with Ed Southwood

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - Aug/03

Hidden - Jul/03

chris sm - AltLd dog - 04/Apr/03 with Julie Osborn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/02

Okecroak - AltLd - 17/Jul/00

CraigMac1 - 2000

markw - AltLd O/S - 1998

Hidden - 2nd - 1996

leadmat - Lead - Jul/95

Polished, good to use knee on crux pitch for extra balance, classic route
ellie macpherson - AltLd - Jul/95 with Bob Smith

Dringo - 1995

sdht - 1994

kristian - AltLd - Nov/93

colin milton - Lead - 04/Sep/93 with eric milton

Roget - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/90 with jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/90

Hidden - Lead - 1990

Mickdenali - Lead - 1990

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/88

davidalcock - 1988 with Philip Scorer

ChrisJD - AltLd - 27/Aug/87

Richard Weller - Lead - 06/May/85 with Chas

Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/83 with Wendy Goodyer

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 28/Mar/82 with Gerry Dunford

mark-abz - Lead - 24/Jun/79 with Mick D

Hidden - 1979

Pitches 1 & 2 only
Mike C - Lead - 25/Nov/78 with Jonti Fox

Mike C - 2nd - 17/Apr/78 with Kevin Howett

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 24/Apr/73

Steve Woollard - Lead - 1972

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Chris dyer, alexporter, Hidden, Hidden, Master Chief, lewiz, jez_springall, SCGale, pedro.silva, Richard Morgan, Warren Earle, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 157
hard HVS0 of 57
HVS1 of 57
easy HVS15 of 57
hard VS19 of 57
VS22 of 57
easy VS0 of 57
hard HS0 of 57
HS0 of 57
easy HS0 of 57
hard 5b0 of 54
5b1 of 54
easy 5b5 of 54
hard 5a18 of 54
5a28 of 54
easy 5a2 of 54
hard 4c0 of 54
4c0 of 54
easy 4c0 of 54
3 Stars30 of 46
2 Stars14 of 46
1 Star1 of 46
0 Stars1 of 46
Bag of .....0 of 46
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 215 (0.5%)
Lead72 of 215 (33.5%)
Followed40 of 215 (18.6%)
Toproped1 of 215 (0.5%)
Alt Leads83 of 215 (38.6%)
Unknown18 of 215 (8.4%)

'Climbed'78 of 215 (36.3%)
clean O/S89 of 215 (41.4%)
clean β4 of 215 (1.9%)
clean rpt24 of 215 (11.2%)
clean RP1 of 215 (0.5%)
dogged13 of 215 (6.0%)
dnf6 of 215 (2.8%)