UKC

4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent expedition up the large subsidiary buttress just left of the main face. Start at a short mossy wall left of a large vegetated gully and just right of a crack.
1) 12m. Climb the wall on improving holds. At its top, work leftwards towards the arete and belay.
2) 10m. Move up the broad face of the arete, past ledges and flakes, to belay on a good ledge below a prominent bent tree.
3) 14m. Climb up to a ledge either directly past the bent tree or via a crack just to its left. Climb the steep crack which rises from the ledge. Once the first moves are made, better holds follow, then move up and left to a tree belay.
4) 9m. Climb the exposed face above the tree and bridge left over a gap to the top, this is the top pitch of Reverse Cleft. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic excursion. Start beneath a short, earthy, wall; bounded by a wide, curving, crack on its left side.
1) 3b. Either climb the wall carefully, and scramble to belay beneath another short wall, or climb the crack to reach the same belay.
2) 3a. Move left, and mantleshelf onto a small ledge. Climb direct to a tree belay.
3) 3c. Climb the curving crack (crux for most), and move up to another tree belay. The arête, to the left of the crack, can also be climbed.
4) 3a. Climb the pinnacle, then fall, step or jump across the gap. Nervous seconds have been known to threaten to bivouac on top of the pinnacle.

FA. Jim Moulton 1948.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , South West Climbs for a Northerner , South West VDiff-HVS , Welcome to CUMC , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Star Diffs , Cream first! , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist

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User Date Notes
Ed Walker 30 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Always good
βeta?
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βeta: Always good
RichardN 20 Mar, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: If you build belay at top of pitch 2 a bit higher (above tree) than guidebook says you can comfortably do this in 3 pitches not 4.
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βeta: If you build belay at top of pitch 2 a bit higher (above tree) than guidebook says you can comfortably do this in 3 pitches not 4.
RichB 16 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Found blue tits are nesting in the roots of the bent tree at the top of pitch 2. Chicks observed 13/5/22.
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βeta: Found blue tits are nesting in the roots of the bent tree at the top of pitch 2. Chicks observed 13/5/22.
Mlewis 26 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lead 2, 4. Good fun and a great last move to get off the pinnacle.
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βeta: Lead 2, 4. Good fun and a great last move to get off the pinnacle.
Slawek Noga 19 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch can be slightly slippery if conditions weather is bad
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βeta: First pitch can be slightly slippery if conditions weather is bad
Sam_in_Leeds 12 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: One of the very best climbs I have ever done. The jamming crak on the third pitch was entertaining for Vdiff and getting off the final pinnacle was hairy, but just small enough to fit a 240cm sling over.
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βeta: One of the very best climbs I have ever done. The jamming crak on the third pitch was entertaining for Vdiff and getting off the final pinnacle was hairy, but just small enough to fit a 240cm sling over.
Tom Last 23 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with some tricky moves, but why would anyone climb it in four pitches? We linked the first and second together and likewise the third and fourth. Not much drag and it meant less faffing and more routes at this excellent crag!
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βeta: Great route with some tricky moves, but why would anyone climb it in four pitches? We linked the first and second together and likewise the third and fourth. Not much drag and it meant less faffing and more routes at this excellent crag!
victim of mathematics 8 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I thought it was rather discontinuous. A bit of a scramble with a few VDiff boulder problems along the way. Nice situation though.
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βeta: I thought it was rather discontinuous. A bit of a scramble with a few VDiff boulder problems along the way. Nice situation though.
Dale Berry 2 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very good and very varied. The start of the second pitch and the crux wall below the tree belay can both seem a little fierce...
βeta?
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βeta: Very good and very varied. The start of the second pitch and the crux wall below the tree belay can both seem a little fierce...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for The Dewerstone

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Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 124
Votes cast 126
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Whispering Doom

Grade: VD ***
(Elender Cove)

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