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Vala** HVS 5a

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[Vala, 3 kb]The staggered overlaps on the left wall of the dominating corner of Central Groove. Climb Central Groove for 10m and access the overlaps. Follow these to a pull over on to the cracked wall and the belay ledge a short distance above. Abseil off. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Vala © Jan Witkowski
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 281 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

Will lead the first pitch, I seconded in my trainers. Got a little griped as legs started to get pumped under crux move.
Brussell - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/14 with Will Hornby

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Mar/14

Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/14 with tj murry

Hidden - Lead - 13/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Nov/13

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Kerry Mellor

Got the move over the last overhang second time around. Nice climb
Chris Joyce - Lead dog - 19/Nov/13 with Doug miller

did all pitches, but probably not the correct ones at the top. best left as an abseil off to give time for another route!
foxjerk - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/13 with wiwwim

gg4419 - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/13 with Nick Stephens

nickstephens - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/13 with Gareth Greeves

Stoked with the lead first go, seconded this when i first started out climbing. Just noticed this was exactly a year ago today. Spooky! Managed to get loads of good gear in the overlaps and find some decent positions for quick rests before the crux. Great line.
snook - Lead β - 03/Sep/13

callum brown - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/13 with Ian

I Jones - 2nd - 16/Aug/13 with Callum B

lmacey - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/13 with Alan Caley

JB2250 - 2nd dog - 06/Aug/13 with Pete Campion

First hvs lead in over 6 years, absaloutly buzzin! Big thanks for great support from lee!
clubmanpete - Lead - 27/Jul/13 with lmacey

lmacey - Lead - 27/Jul/13 with Pete campion

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jul/13

Gav A - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13 with Mikey C

Great climb. We climbed it in the dark, by headtorch, which I think probably makes it less daunting for the second. The crux move would normally feel very exposed, but in the dark you can't really see anything but the rock in front of you.
petecallaghan - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/13 with David Coley

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/13

Philippa Arding - 2nd - Jul/13 with nick arding

jakenichol - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Kayleigh Tremaine

lmacey - Lead - 10/Jun/13

nickdonohue - Lead - 08/Jun/13 with Hector ?

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jun/13

JulesClimbs - 2nd rpt - 05/Jun/13 with Paul

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/13

pitch 1 only as per west country climbs.... Soft in the grade.
CurlyStevo - Lead - Jun/13 with Rob

gg4419 - 2nd rpt - 31/May/13 with Mark Booker

metal arms - 2nd - 31/May/13

hornbywill - Lead O/S - 30/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Gareth Greeves

gg4419 - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13 with Nick Stephens

Sarah Welsh - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/13 with David Coley

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Apr/13

Samuel Wainwright - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/13 with Matt Greenwood

Grabtheslab - Apr/13

john lynch - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with lewis stuart

Grabtheslab - 2013

willhornby - 2013

Jenny Dart - 2nd - 2013

Cheese Monkey - 2nd rpt - 14/Nov/12 with Iain

martin clarke - Lead dog - 04/Sep/12 with john frost

Really need to invest in a watch or headtorch as we finished this in the dark which made this already exciting climb a lot scarier than it needed to be! Great traverse at the top of the climb to the underside of the overhang. Need to do it again in daylight to appreciate the exposure
snook - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/12

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/12 with Lyndsay

Lyndsay Superclimber - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/12 with Mark S

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/12 with Debbie

debbie roberts - 2nd - 21/Aug/12 with Marti999

gidmord - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Pete Abernethy

pete87abs - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Gid

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Ming Xi Yang

great climbing. well protected with a good crux. loved it
Jimmykeenan01 - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/12

lee first HVS! 5a
surf1nal-kern0w - 2nd dnf - 27/Jul/12

lmacey - Lead - 27/Jul/12

climbers club direct ate my powers
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/12 with caleb kemics

Felt so much easier than CC direct. Really great climb, safer than a sport route and some really cool climbing. 3*
Kemics - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Katherine

Terrified, was hauled up.
Ian Miller - 2nd dog - 30/Jun/12 with Ben Darby

Brian H - Lead - 17/Jun/12 with Rik

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

mark88 - Lead - 01/Jun/12 with Adam Davis

really nice couldn't clear the cam on the crux tho
benwhalley - 2nd β - 01/Jun/12

Rested on rope before crux
Westcorkman - Lead RP - 28/May/12 with Bob Dawson

Brilliant climb, really enjoyed this but didn't feel like a HVS....not when compared to Climbers Club Direct. Lots of gear with big holds.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Ben R

ewanthomson - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Sean Turner

ed2204 - 2nd - 16/May/12 with Chris Wildblood

cwildblood - Lead O/S - 16/May/12

Chappy - 2nd O/S - 07/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Apr/12

guy757 - Lead - 13/Apr/12

Doug miller - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with steve sailsbury

guy757 - 13/Apr/12

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/12 with Baz, Chaman, steve P

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/12 with Baz, Chaman, steve P

bazthomas - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/12 with Mark Schramm

Chaman - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/12 with Mark Schramm, Steve P

Philippa Arding - 2nd - 08/Apr/12 with helen pitt

arandall - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd - 28/Mar/12 with arandall

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jan/12

Almost fell, was trying to use a shit finger lock out left. Pulled myself together and thugged it to the finish.
thedoctorisin - Lead O/S - Jan/12 with Chris

Headtorch
El3ctroFuzz - Lead rpt - 13/Nov/11 with Tristan Sherlock

Night Climb with Head torch
Tristan Sherlock - 2nd rpt - 13/Nov/11 with Tom Bunn

credit to stubbs for rescuing my lost nut from the previous ascent!
rustaldo - Lead rpt - 21/Oct/11 with Stubbs

carl_123 - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/11 with matt rust

a nice route, better than leviathan IMO.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Liam W

Dilwat - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/11 with Pete

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11

Rustyjas - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/11 with Chris Clayton-Jones (CJ)

andrew hammond - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with Roy

I lead this to the crux but ran out of commitment at the single move needed to finish the route. It has so much in-situ gear it's practicaly a sport route.
petecallaghan - AltLd dnf - 10/Aug/11 with Stuart Fox

Nice climb - had a bit of Elvis-leg at the crux!
BelayBunney - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Catherine

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/11

gowla - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Alan Dovey, will kumar

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/11 with harry, emma

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/11

was an intresting experiance becacuse on the arete i went around instead of up at the top and this caused the rope to get stuck and i managed to get to the top with mayjor pulling on the rope and then it got stuck :( but luckly some guy belayed my partner up and he sorted it. thank you. but will never do that again i learnt my mistake. but really good route and will go back and complete properly some other time.
Jordon Fleming - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/11 with ben darby

Whoever you were on solo TR I'm sorry we didnt get a chance to thank you properly for belaying me up to free the stuck rope. Nightmare!
Cheese Monkey - 2nd rpt - 21/Jul/11 with jordon fleming

first HVS, felt amazing!! (the stuck cams helped)
Elaine Budden - Lead rpt - 12/Jul/11 with mikey cleverdon

Jenny Seaborne - 2nd β - 11/Jul/11

the undercut flakes obviously eat cams - there were 4 stuck ones in various stages of mangledness. Move up round the overhang is a toughy.
hms - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Jenny

Great fun! A good cheeky climb at the end of the day
John Tanner - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Dave Moir

Nice lead again, hauled second up!
Cheese Monkey - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/11 with Ian M

Easier than it looked from the ground. Still not easy!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Elaine

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jun/11

Elaine Budden - 2nd rpt - 23/Jun/11 with ben darby

At every section a little searching reveals lovely holds.. the undercut section makes this an enjoyable climb
Myfingershavefallenoff - Lead β - 22/Jun/11 with Josh

tcn_2002 - 2nd - 19/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/11

feilx - Solo O/S - 23/May/11

dmaldonado - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Luke Horne

Luke90 - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with dmaldonado

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/May/11

chris ebbutt - Lead - 18/May/11 with Nick

Chaman - 2nd O/S - 18/May/11 with Mark W, Steve P

Steve led chaman + I seconded Great climb really enjoyed
DCIGadget - 2nd O/S - 18/May/11 with Dr Price, Chaman

surf1nal-kern0w - 2nd dog - 15/May/11

Philippa Arding - 2nd - 02/May/11 with nick arding

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Kirsty Kerr

Hidden - Lead - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/11

JulesClimbs - 2nd - 07/Apr/11 with Paul

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Ceridwen Hutchinson

Ceridwen - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Sophie Nunn

bonoid - 2nd O/S - Apr/11

Tristan Sherlock - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/11 with Tom Bunn

El3ctroFuzz - 2nd rpt - 28/Mar/11 with Tristan Sherlock

chappers909 - TR O/S - 23/Mar/11 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - Lead - 15/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 14/Mar/11

Popkids - 2nd rpt - 12/Mar/11 with Kafoozalem

berry - 2nd - 12/Mar/11 with Kafoozalem

abit of a technical crux, if smart you can find rest points all the way along the underlings, definitely will come back to get the lead tick myself.
Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with ed morris

Exquisite climbing. Dont be put off by the look of it. Its not nearly as pumpy as it looks. Very varied climbing, touching on three stars!
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11 with haydn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 26/Sep/10 with tom m

Amazing moves...
tommoulds - 2nd β - 26/Sep/10 with Schramm

Haytor_Haggis - 2nd - 25/Sep/10 with Steve Woollard

Steve Woollard - Lead - 25/Sep/10 with Kevin Colclough

francois - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/10 with Catherine

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10

Led 1st pitch
jim.barritt - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Nicholas Donohue

Steve led - just about dark when I reached the top!
Chaman - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/10 with Steve P, David C

mark schramm - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/10 with emma

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Sep/10

leohl - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Jonathon Cook

loved it again!
The Green Giant - 2nd rpt - 28/Jul/10 with Dan with the van

dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with AO

1st pitch only, then abseil.
Eike - 2nd - 18/Jul/10 with Chawn Harlow

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Jul/10

Radical-G - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/10 with Jay Jackson

P1 only. Nice climbing and soft for the grade.
francois - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/10 with Doug

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/10

The Green Giant - Lead - 27/Jun/10 with Fiila

Led first pitch, Cameron led to the top
Lewis Stewart - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Cameron

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/10

El3ctroFuzz - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/10 with Alex Orrrrrrr - Green giant

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/10

El3ctroFuzz - Solo rpt - 19/Jun/10

much easier than the guide lets on. Undercut the last roof, stand up high, and step right onto the layback arete.
El3ctroFuzz - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Elaine Budden

Elaine Budden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with tom bunn

Popkids - Lead β - 25/May/10 with Adam

Homes - Lead - 23/May/10 with Thom W

twright180 - AltLd - 23/May/10 with Luke Homatron

nick arding - Lead rpt - 17/May/10 with Lee Pooley

Will_Murray - Lead O/S - 05/May/10

amazing route, very soft HVS
John Henry Wynn - Lead - 05/May/10 with Will Murray

jcook1980 - 2010

jmhood - 2010

Luke d - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/09

pedro.silva - TR rpt - 19/Aug/09 with Martin B

rockferret - Lead rpt - 18/Aug/09 with Phil and Graham

Phil79 - 2nd rpt - 18/Aug/09 with Jiff & Martin

DanLear - AltLd - 02/Jun/09 with Al McPhierson

Steerpike - 2nd rpt - 31/May/09 with Tommo

Gear pre placed upto the crux. Easy.
JWB - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Dave Button

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/09

Repeated this awesome route 'cos i was too pussy to climb Fruitflncase! ... next time!
JonHarvey - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/09 with Jayne-o

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/09

Sylvi - 2nd - 11/Apr/09 with Simon

adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/09 with Pete and Pedro

Phil79 - TR rpt - 02/Apr/09 with Pedro

Came off under the overhang, pumped. At least 2 friends are jamed uder overhangs
pedro.silva - 2nd dog - 02/Apr/09 with Adam (lead) Kafoozalem (second)

Lovely little climb!
graham knott - TR O/S - 02/Apr/09 with Phil W. & Pedro S.

Will_Murray - 2nd - 02/Apr/09 with Will Ames

RobSteere - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Anta

Finally led :)
JonHarvey - Lead rpt - 25/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 24/Mar/09

dmoir - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/09 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - TR rpt - 18/Mar/09

really fun undercutting route
John Henry Wynn - TR - 18/Mar/09 with Jay Jackson, Will Murray

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jan/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2009

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Oct/08

really great!
Kate Edhouse - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/08 with Bry/Dave

littlebp - 2nd - 25/Sep/08 with Dave Searle

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/08

eugeneth - Lead β - 03/Jun/08 with Seb

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jun/08

Popkids - 2nd rpt - 21/May/08 with Baz

Hidden - Lead rpt - May/08

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/08 with Jez

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/08

Didn't make overhang,had to go out left and up
Popkids - 26/Jan/08 with Kafoozalem & Nolan

sebrider - 2nd O/S - 2008 with eugeneth

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Nov/07

P1 only. Fun fun fun. Shame about all the panic-placed cams under the final overhang. Care, people. Or save it until you're ready!
cmsg - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Caroline Friend

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07

The_Boy_ODwyer - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Adam

One fall
gfoster - 2nd - Oct/07 with James Witlock

inspiration_needed - 2nd O/S - Oct/07 with Che

jw231 - Lead β - 28/Sep/07 with gfoster

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/07

P1 only
Justin T - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/07 with Wifey

alaan - Solo rpt - 28/Aug/07 with Connor

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/07

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 25/May/07 with Fiend

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/07

JonHarvey - 2nd O/S - May/07 with Jay Jackson

freelancer_85 - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Jacques

cem - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Graham Dolman

sam coward - 2nd rpt - 01/Apr/07 with Tim

Nessie - TR dnf - 18/Mar/07 with Ben Chacksfield

Nessie - TR dnf - 17/Mar/07 with Mark Dormon, Simon Long

AJH - Lead - 10/Mar/07 with Crispin

climber sim - 2007

Phil79 - Lead O/S - 2007 with Zuzka

sam coward - Lead rpt - 08/Oct/06 with Tom

jw231 - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/06 with Oli Hatt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/06

sam coward - Lead RP - 04/Jun/06 with Wayne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/06

leadmat - Lead - 2006

leadmat - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/05

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/05

Hidden - Lead - 2005

tom.e - 2nd O/S - 2004 with Charlie Everett

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 24/Apr/03 with Nic Dill

Mark Collins - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/03 with Mark Watson

Hidden - Lead - 19/Mar/03

Lev - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/03 with Vicky Bowles

Hidden - Lead - 2003

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/01

ChrisJD - 2nd - Mar/00 with Clare

andy_pemberton - Lead - 2000

Mickdenali - 1998 with Mark Harvey

And the 5B top pitch finish
climbingrichard - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

Felt scarey
ellie macpherson - AltLd - Jun/95 with Steve Taylor

First pitch only
timreynolds - Lead - 22/Mar/95 with Callum Bremner, Steve Taylor

1 blackout
colin milton - Lead O/S - 12/May/94 with eric milton and s blagdon

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Sep/93

Great hidden hold Dry
climbingrichard - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/93

Hidden - 1993

Pitch 1 only
Nigel Coe - TR dnf - 1992

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/90

sdht - 1990

daviesdan - Lead - 1989

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/87

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/83

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - May/82 with Greg Smith

Mike C - Lead - 13/Mar/82 with Chris Davis

Andy Fielding - Lead - 1982 with Mark Williams

Nick Biven - 1981

mark-abz - Lead - 02/Mar/80 with Dave B

First pitch only
Mike C - Lead - 29/Apr/79 with Richard Oxlade

Hidden - 1979

God! I climbed this 33 years ago!!! I can still remember pulling over the overlap - there is a photo of me working up the courage to make the move. In fact, that was all it needed - my recollection is that the move was pretty straightforward. No Friends - just a large hex made by Clog.
Jan Witkowski - Lead O/S - 31/May/75 with Andy Wooton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Brussell, andrewmcleod, Hidden, chrisweight, SurferStan, Kemics, AJH, Dale Turrell, Noodles, solenostomus, hcaw, Hidden, pedro.silva, graham knott, Hidden, nblackbeard, Hidden, Nessie

Voting
Total votes cast 108
hard E10 of 36
E10 of 36
easy E10 of 36
hard HVS1 of 36
HVS27 of 36
easy HVS6 of 36
hard VS2 of 36
VS0 of 36
easy VS0 of 36
hard 5b0 of 36
5b0 of 36
easy 5b0 of 36
hard 5a1 of 36
5a29 of 36
easy 5a5 of 36
hard 4c1 of 36
4c0 of 36
easy 4c0 of 36
3 Stars9 of 36
2 Stars24 of 36
1 Star3 of 36
0 Stars0 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 281 (1.1%)
Lead147 of 281 (52.3%)
Followed98 of 281 (34.9%)
Toproped9 of 281 (3.2%)
Alt Leads10 of 281 (3.6%)
Unknown14 of 281 (5.0%)

'Climbed'88 of 281 (31.3%)
clean O/S118 of 281 (42.0%)
clean β8 of 281 (2.8%)
clean rpt52 of 281 (18.5%)
clean RP2 of 281 (0.7%)
dogged8 of 281 (2.8%)
dnf5 of 281 (1.8%)