UKC

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A truly wonderful climb - they don't come much better. The climbing is intimidating but straightforward and very well-protected. Start directly beneath the dominating corner.
1) 4b, 28m. Climb the short polished wall to the base of the corner, which is followed all the way to the capping overlap. Traverse rightwards to the arete and belay at a large block.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb up and then rightwards to a ledge. Move right to below a well-defined corner (possible belay). Climb the fine corner to the top, this is the technical crux of the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Holds and protection abound. Start below the obvious large corner.
1) 4b. Climb the cracked wall to the start of the corner. Climb this, by a variety of techniques, until the overhangs become oppressive. Move out, onto the wall, using large holds, and climb up to an airy belay on the arête. Or, finish directly up the corner. Harder. 2) 4b. Climb a short wall to a ramp. Move right, across this ramp, and finish up the hanging corner above, by layback and finger jams. It is possible to climb the slab, right of the corner; harder, and worrying to lead.

FA. C.Simpson 1949.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Kernow , West Country Climbs , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks , Rockfax West Country top 50 , UK Classic Corners , South West Climbs for a Northerner , HS Climbs to do in Summer 2014 , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , CUMC Ticklist , WideBoyz Crack School , South West VDiff-HVS , 2016 Targets , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , University of Exeter must tick's , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Moving to Devon , Bristol Crack School , Ultimate HS ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Cream first! , Dan’s Delights , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do! , Llidberis South West Tour

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User Date Notes
EA_Mountain_Skills 8 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Phenomenal. Did this a few years ago now & not found many HS climbs to match it.
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βeta: Phenomenal. Did this a few years ago now & not found many HS climbs to match it.
JSM 15 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Block halfway up crack on first pitch, on left hand side, sounds hollow and appears slightly loose - take care
βeta?
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βeta: Block halfway up crack on first pitch, on left hand side, sounds hollow and appears slightly loose - take care
Ali Cooper 6 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route!! Highly recommend.
βeta?
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βeta: Awesome route!! Highly recommend.
Eddyy 8 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Wild for first HS! Sustained but in great positions
βeta?
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βeta: Wild for first HS! Sustained but in great positions
Salvo1 25 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I led pitch 1. I felt intimidated & unsure looking up at this climb but after I started this passed. Gear a plenty, variety of moves. Loved the traverse. Andy joined me at the belay & brought the mizzle with him. He continued to lead the 2nd pitch. Great finale made tricky in the sopping wet.
βeta?
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βeta: I led pitch 1. I felt intimidated & unsure looking up at this climb but after I started this passed. Gear a plenty, variety of moves. Loved the traverse. Andy joined me at the belay & brought the mizzle with him. He continued to lead the 2nd pitch. Great finale made tricky in the sopping wet.
RichFree 15 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: That layback section of the 2nd pitch was excellent.
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βeta: That layback section of the 2nd pitch was excellent.
georgechapman 4 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Wagtail gone, checked via Leviathon and confirmed by local who has removed the sign.
βeta?
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βeta: Wagtail gone, checked via Leviathon and confirmed by local who has removed the sign.
PaulJepson 2 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Wagtail nesting on p1.
βeta?
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βeta: Wagtail nesting on p1.
Dave Mahon 2 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Steep but lots of gear + holds. Superb for the grade
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βeta: Steep but lots of gear + holds. Superb for the grade
Dale Berry 2 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb. The first pitch is as good as it gets and the finnish is a fitting climax, just a shame about the scrappy section above the belay (which is in an excelent position). At the pitch though take a look at what the top of the obvious block is attached to the rest of the rock by...should this worry you there are excelent large nut and hex placements in the cracks to the right.
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βeta: Superb. The first pitch is as good as it gets and the finnish is a fitting climax, just a shame about the scrappy section above the belay (which is in an excelent position). At the pitch though take a look at what the top of the obvious block is attached to the rest of the rock by...should this worry you there are excelent large nut and hex placements in the cracks to the right.

Logged Ascents

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High VS
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
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Votes cast 304
High 4c
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High 4b
Mid 4b
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Mid 4a
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Votes cast 281
Votes cast 307
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Integrity

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Lundy)

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