Pembrokeshire > Carreg-y-Barcud >
 
Mean Feat*** E5 6a

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[psyched, 3 kb]24m. Another majestic slab route with extremely sustained and fingery climbing. Start at the first crack right of Kitten Claws. Climb this to join Billy Spragg, then step right to follow the continuation crack and then directly up the wall above. © ROCKFAX
FA. C.Parkin, G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 1985 (with a bolt runner). FA. S.Monks 1990 (without bolt)

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Best slab climbs of the UK.

Photo: psyched © loundsy
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 55 logbooks, and on 24 wishlists.

guy757 - 15/Jul/14

Patrick Hill - Lead dnf - 09/Jun/14 with Dan Geh

Awesome fun. Top run-out is great - mega-intimidating but easy enough to enjoy. No chalk - proper hold search required.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 31/May/14

Rested at the crux
will_benfold - 2nd dog - 31/May/14 with Ross McKerchar

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/14

Julian Cooper - Lead β - 16/Apr/14 with Stuart Knott

First E5 of the year. Rubbish greasy conditions, then rain on the top half. Pleased I tried hard and didn't give up, was worth it for the head wall.
Ed morris - Lead rpt - 04/Apr/14 with stefan

mike mo - 2014

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Ed Mitchell, Ellen Cobby

Matt Cooke - Lead dnf - 25/Aug/13 with Sam Taylor

2nd E5
Matt Harle - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/13

lcullum7 - 2nd - 13/Jun/13 with Matt Harle

Tremendous. The blank headwall is a real cherry on top.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Jemma Powell

Blasted through at the start of the day, so I didn't give myself time to get scared. Went wrong at the top (traversed too far left then up) but did the meat of the route and the crux.
Daniel Heath - Lead β - 04/May/13 with Remus

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/May/13

Never climbed anything at this grade before, felt more like 5c. Nice crimps most of the way.
Dan Geh - TR O/S - 07/Jun/12

yarrow - TR O/S - 07/Jun/12 with Phil W

Great climbing on good crimps.
AMJ098 - TR O/S - 06/Jun/12

Patrick Hill - TR O/S - Jun/12

Jake fell off the crux, then I lead the first half with his gear and beta and pushed on to the top.
jacobjacob - Lead β - 26/May/12

Missed the sequence and fell off the move to the last break, one move from success. Lowered off so Jacob could have a go. Really should have had it. Feet were absolute agony - need to wear friendlier shoes when its that hot!
jacobjlloyd - Lead dnf - 26/May/12 with Jacob

Not sure why i fell off this again. Really no reason to.
jacobjlloyd - 2nd dog - 26/May/12 with Jacob

Nearly fell off this one. first E5 onsight. Just enough gear (and it was good for a change). A few hard moves, one very hard move. top section was classic. 3*
markalmack - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with chris todd

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12

tried once on a top rope clean so led it.
Adam Coles - AltLd RP - Apr/12

miastacey - Lead O/S - Aug/11 with Bob Smith

Pretty steady with some thin moves up to the break... if you follow the continuation crack its desperate, I slinked off to the left where it is easier.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - 2nd - 29/Jul/11 with Dave Morse

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 29/Jul/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Great climbing, plenty of beta (from all angles!) from Barni and Luke.
Glyn - Lead β - 29/Jun/11 with Luke, Barni

barni - Lead β - 29/Jun/11

pipof747 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11

Luke Brooks - Lead β - 28/Jun/11 with Glyn Hudson, Barni

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/11

Ed morris - TR rpt - 17/Sep/10 with -martin

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Aug/10

RobRock84 - 2nd dog - 05/Aug/10 with Steve Quinton

climbed clean to the half height break, couldnt get a decent rest to recover so lowered of. One more rockover and i could have had it, devastated.
Ed morris - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/10 with james

C coldwell-storry - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/09 with George Ullrich

Tried it once a couple of years ago, felt like a different route this time.
feilx - Lead RP - 01/Nov/08 with Floris

jonnybull - TR dog - Aug/08 with Alban

End of a long day and my tired partner point blank refused to second me on anything. Thought I'd have a go at Kitten Claws and unsurprisingly found this bloody hard. Two rests.
thomasadixon - TR dog - 26/Jul/08

Thought I was on Kitten Claws and not surprisingly found it fairly hard and scary!
Chad123 - AltLd dog - 04/May/08 with Sam

dannyboy83 - Lead β - 09/Feb/08 with Dave Moir

Painful, hard and scary. Not my preferred style of climbing but enjoyable in hindsight.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Dan

Davros the Psyched - Lead O/S - 2007

feilx - Lead dog - 18/Nov/06 with Sion

Bella - 2nd - 19/May/05 with Michael

al99 - TR dog - Aug/04 with Alex Wainwright

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/01 with Viv

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/01

Hidden - Lead - 2001

belay bunny turned bad - 2000

Found it a bit cruxy at 2/3rds height but otherwise nice with relatively good small wire placements throughout
Jeff25 - Lead RP - 01/Sep/99 with Oliver

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Chris Craggs - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
brices, Hidden, Hidden, James S, RFWilkie, iksander, Dean177, Paul Tanner, Caspian Johnson, Hidden, Hidden, Harry Chaplin, Diggler, Hidden, Hidden, web10steelj, vertigo714, Hidden, BWoodward, Dr Toph, Hidden, ian caton, Andrew Barker, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 49
hard E60 of 17
E60 of 17
easy E60 of 17
hard E50 of 17
E510 of 17
easy E56 of 17
hard E40 of 17
E41 of 17
easy E40 of 17
hard 6b0 of 16
6b0 of 16
easy 6b0 of 16
hard 6a6 of 16
6a7 of 16
easy 6a2 of 16
hard 5c1 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c0 of 16
3 Stars16 of 16
2 Stars0 of 16
1 Star0 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead33 of 55 (60.0%)
Followed8 of 55 (14.5%)
Toproped8 of 55 (14.5%)
Alt Leads2 of 55 (3.6%)
Unknown4 of 55 (7.3%)

'Climbed'9 of 55 (16.4%)
clean O/S18 of 55 (32.7%)
clean β8 of 55 (14.5%)
clean rpt4 of 55 (7.3%)
clean RP3 of 55 (5.5%)
dogged8 of 55 (14.5%)
dnf5 of 55 (9.1%)