Barbarian** E1 5b
[Andrew on barbarian, 3 kb]The huge corner gives great climbing. Start below the corner. 1) 10m. Scramble up to the tree below the slab. 2) 4b, 15m. Climb the slabby right wall of the corner until you are forced to move left into it. Follow this until you can pull out left onto a ledge belay. 3) 5b, 20m. A hard move round the overlap on the left wall leads to better holds in the corner. Take the crack that runs up the slabby right wall to the next huge roof. The climbing through this is surprisingly easy to the lip. Pull around the lip with difficulty, then move up and left to a ledge (possibly belay if you are knackered). Step back right into the main groove and climb to the top past a wobbly hold. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Stared Tremadog E1's.

Photo: Andrew on barbarian © ben360

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 454 logbooks, and on 39 wishlists.

KDhruev - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/14 with Katie

Stepping out from the roof felt cheeky, not much for the feet.
jezb1 - 2nd - 14/Oct/14

mynyddresident - Lead rpt - 12/Oct/14 with KP

Both Pitches, felt like rock solid E2 to me.
robertmctague - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/14 with Theodore

KeenClimber - Lead dog - 27/Sep/14 with Ian Dugdale

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Sep/14

A proper battle to get up and out of the roof.
khalidq - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/14 with Kelvin Mann

JHC - 23/Aug/14

Tiring. Not with it at the time and failed to commit to the crux fully.
Sam Watson - Lead dnf - 23/Aug/14 with James Cowley

EmilyElouise - 2nd dnf - 03/Aug/14

Lead it as one monster pitch. Closest I've come to falling off an E1 in years, lets be honest it's not really an E1, Grade should be HVS F6b++. Could do with a bit more traffic. Didn't dare touch the 'finishing jug.'
TommityP - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/14

foostu4 - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/14

Insanely hard climb at the grade, felt way harder than every other E1 5b I've done. I made it past the first crux at the start of 2nd pitch (HARD), and then nearly made it past the 2nd crux leaving the big roof before I got pumped on my hand jam and had to rest on gear. Disappointed I didn't finish it clean, I'll get it next time. Cool climbing!
jsmcfarland - Lead dog - 28/Jul/14 with Joss

duncandarnell - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/14

Chris P1 and me p2 Great route and safe but pretty tough at the grade!
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/14 with ross garfoot, chris Lyness

KeenClimber - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/14 with Jim Nutall

nepsoi999 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/14 with sophie

Great route with an unobvious but well protected sequence through the roofs.
TonyB - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Anni

AnniH - AltLd dog - 29/Jun/14 with Tony B

Did pitch 2. Very entertaining climbing. Second roof was very interesting!
monsteratt - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Neil

Neil - AltLd - 14/Jun/14

Dad lead first pitch. I lead the second pitch passed the crux and onto bellow the top roof. Hard climbing and very thuggish i thought! Had to belay down from below top roof. Ran out of fuel. Ill get you next time!!
ItsHuwHaribo - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/14 with Mel Roberts

Bob Loblaw - Lead O/S - Jun/14 with Stuart Blackler

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/May/14

ben.phillips - 2nd dog - 26/May/14 with Mike Gallimore, Andrew Erskine

First crux on second pitch needed a point of aid, second crux below the roof is best approached facing out!
andy_e - 2nd - 26/May/14

MichaelGallimore - 26/May/14

Run out of quick draws before the second roof so bailed.
Shaw Brown - Lead dnf - 16/May/14 with Judith Neaves

classic.
rich.manterfield - Lead O/S - May/14

First crux no problem but second ... dogged it like Stan Colleymore
mick1jones - 2nd dog - 12/Apr/14 with Rich Rogers

Led main pitch but ran out of quickdraws so rebelayed below final overhang, which Tony then led. Pretty tough route, solid E2 in my book.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd rpt - 30/Mar/14 with Tony Ball

Stefan_Morris - AltLd rpt - 30/Mar/14 with jenny, AndrewJamesCherry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14

Left it up to Dougie to finish who didn't have any trouble at all, so I had to get me revenge on the route! Still found it horrible climbing and absolutely nails! First overlap was hard and pulling through the main roof felt desperate. Had to full on physically and mentally fight to get to the top of this - an absolute battle and one I'd like to forget!
shed_hed - 2nd RP - 08/Mar/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Darren McMaster

Horrible, harrowing, green and wet route - did not enjoy this one bit! Got to the main roof and took my first proper lead fall trying to get around it and into the groove. Cam popped and I hit the slab. Lowered off after that.
shed_hed - Lead dnf - 08/Mar/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Hidden - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Chris lead first pitch and I had the pleasure of the second pitch. The crux took me a while to work out but I was chuffed to get up clean . Brilliant route .
jimxxx - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Nov/13

2nd pitch
elyben - AltLd - 10/Nov/13

Led P1,3 (as described in the Ground Up guide)
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/13 with Ben Ely

The Grist - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Mike Rignall

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/13

mynyddresident - AltLd rpt - 31/Aug/13 with Tony P

Lead P1.
nicole almond - AltLd - 28/Aug/13 with Dad

Awkward and thuggish. not a lot of style required. Fun in the sun with Nicole
Dave Almond - AltLd - 28/Aug/13 with Nicole Almond

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/13

Hidden - 24/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd dog - 23/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jun/13

newtonmore - 26/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Jun/13

As one pitch.
Kevster - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Will T

Fragmod - Lead - 01/Jun/13

Nails. Soloed P1
tsl42 - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/13 with Gaz Hooson

Dan Mckinlay - Jun/13

Fragmod - 2nd - 26/May/13

Lead in one pitch.
dicky79 - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Pete

Samuel Wainwright - Lead rpt - 07/May/13 with Rafe Osborne, Sol Armer

Soloed first pitch
Sol Armer - 2nd O/S - 07/May/13 with Sam Wainwright

tim newton - 2nd rpt - 01/May/13 with stuart lade

UncleMephisto - Lead dnf - May/13 with Sol Armer, Sam Wainwright

Great fun, second over hang's pretty big! led as one big pitch.
Stefan_Morris - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with jenny

Led P1, Cal led crux pitch.
Rachel Somerville - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Cal

2nd pitch quite hard and also loads of bird poo!
Sam Melville - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/13

Lead the first pitch.. had an epic battle seconding the 2nd pitch. Got to the top after pulling on the rope at the crux, covered in bird poo, feathers, grass, blood.... but a good laugh, and very 3D climbing.
anthonydouglas - AltLd dog - 01/Apr/13 with Sam Melville

Hidden - Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Mar/13

Lead crux
The_Boy_ODwyer - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/13 with Colin Harvey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/13

Very nice if only the hole route climbed as well as the top
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 30/Mar/13 with Simon huges

Lead the whole thing. Started to fall on P2 and grabbed gear that was by my hand. Lowered back to the belay an got it 'ground up'. Hard for 5b if your short.
Chi Cheng - Lead β - 03/Mar/13 with Bill Smith

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/Jan/13

The climbing is most awkward. At some point I wasn't aware which way was up. Good lead from Remus.
Daniel Heath - 2nd β - 31/Jan/13 with Remus

rbharries - AltLd dog - 2013 with ollie mentalz

Nick Biven - 2013

greglad - 2013

adie84 - 2013

neilh - 2013

Led P2, major whipper on the crux (onto a nut key, haha) but pulled it through. If you're short, you're in for a surprise crux about two metres from the top.
neuromancer - AltLd RP - 11/Nov/12 with Sam Wainwright

Samuel Wainwright - AltLd O/S - 11/Nov/12

Jay C - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Tom Adams

1st pitch then dragged up crux 2nd pitch on 2nd
Tadams - AltLd - 06/Oct/12 with Jay Conlon

Did 2nd and 3rd together, cocked up crux and ended up falling, but got through in the end.
paddygoodwinlondon - AltLd dog - 29/Sep/12 with Sebastien

I lead the first pitch, Patrick lead the second
Sebastien Gastaud - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Patrick Goodwin

P1. Nice climb, safe but there is a big loose block on the 3rd/top of 2nd pitch
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Brian

hard for the grade? had to have one point of aid, must have missed something out or just crap!
martrin - Lead - 09/Sep/12 with Sarah Kekus

P2
Jen Crook - AltLd - 26/Aug/12 with John Houlden, Rob Patchett

Johnywilks - 2nd - 14/Aug/12

Gerallt Owain - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/12 with Paul Davies

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Stuart Buchan

mattyork2 - 2nd - 24/Jul/12 with Johnny Richard

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jul/12

Stewart Armstrong - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12 with John Proudfoot, Richard Spencer

svdie - Jul/12

Amazingly burly and 3D - my 500th route
rd20 - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with David P

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/12

Michael Allday - Lead rpt - 21/May/12 with ieuan

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 20/May/12 with Tom Dolden

more pumpy on the legs than arms
Tom Doldon - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with sam simpson 48

Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Mike

alek - AltLd dnf - 06/May/12 with Graeme Schofield, Tom Bide

Lee lead P1 to the tree and I lead the rest. Perhaps since I am (very) short, the first overlap was the crux for me, though to be fair the last overlap was more committing. Good route.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 06/May/12 with Lee P

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12

lead 1st pitch.
martinazando - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Dunx

Dunx - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Martina

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12

Hidden - AltLd β - 05/May/12

Hidden - May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/12

Led P1 & P3. P2 felt desperate.
Clay C - AltLd dog - 28/Apr/12 with Will T

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Apr/12

mbradberry2008 - Lead dnf - 05/Apr/12 with Alex French

mikeyg - Lead dog - 18/Mar/12 with Will Twigger

P2. Wet. Felt fine, found a lot of hands off rests.
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with T.Ripley

Liam FLeming - 06/Mar/12 with tim harrop

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Mar/12

Captain Gear - 2012

Owen_P - 2012

Alex.M-M. - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/11 with Ellie Barnard

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/11

Matt_L_Robinson - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/11

CragDog - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/11

led 1st pitch.
climbing_wiggy - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Leon

Pitch 2 & 3 ran together
Lenny - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Paul

Hidden - Lead - Nov/11

Hidden - 31/Oct/11

Still found the first overlap really tough, even on second, bloody T-rex arms. Second overlap was great though!!
Ceridwen - 2nd dog - 28/Oct/11 with Andy Mosienko

Failed at the first overlap, found it quite reachy and awkward.
Ceridwen - Lead dnf - 28/Oct/11 with Andy Mosienko

p1 solo/chris, p2 me. Pretty good, glad to have been expecting something hard though. Bit after the ledge being soaked makes an intersting top out!
CRiddiford - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Chris

P1
chrism225 - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Caroline

JRae - Lead - 02/Oct/11 with M Watson

mwatson - 02/Oct/11

H P1 & 3. Me P2. Only had a single 60m rope so had to do it in 3 pitches. Crux not helped by going over roof and discovering fingers jammed below. Move back down, thrutch. Back over and then gear jammed under lip, argh! Finally finished it clean but feeling very unwell - virus or something akin, sweating like a pig and too tired to talk!
philhilo - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/11 with Helen E

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Sep/11

Pretty tough. Emma wasn't impressed at having to second this!
gforce - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Emma

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Calum

I lead first pitch Roz lead pitch 2
3 Names - AltLd rpt - 22/Jul/11 with Roslyn Mckendry

Led P2 to the top. Fabulous climb and very hard for the grade. A real sandbag. Had to rest on the gear at the crux.
givemetea - AltLd dog - 22/Jul/11 with Vince

dan ely - 2nd rpt - 22/Jun/11 with tony (army)

myoung - AltLd - 19/Jun/11 with Evan

lead the top 2 in one, superb and burly climbing through the roofs with added excitement of rescue helicopter right above our heads!
john lynch - AltLd O/S - 29/May/11 with simon smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/11

Hidden - 2nd - 28/May/11

Sankey - 24/May/11 with Luke

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Stephen

Hidden - Lead - 12/May/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/11

Basically got spanked by this. Was very hot and dehydrated. Found first roof desperate, fell once then got it next go, and then was just too tired and all the psyche had gone for the top roof. Got half way through it but hen lowered off. Will go back on a day when Ive had more sleep, water and food and it isnt 25 degs + in the sun.
Si dH - AltLd dnf - 30/Apr/11 with Chris Foster

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Phil

Sam Simpson - Lead dnf - 22/Apr/11 with Christian Turford

first roof ok, second roof ok but put pro in only hold so found it difficult had rest under third roof before going up final corner
gingergeorge - Lead - 20/Apr/11 with ben and jonno, rcp

matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11

James ran out of gear, downclimbed to fall off safely and i then lead it. Fantastic.
mike lawrence? - AltLd - 08/Apr/11 with James the Navigator

tim newton - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/11 with rich gentry

Michael Allday - Lead O/S - Apr/11 with rodney greenfield

Brutal. Loose big block at the top.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/11 with Thomas Martin

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

bwestwood - 14/Dec/10 with pete sargeant

pie_eater_pete - AltLd - 14/Dec/10 with bwestwood

2nd
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/10 with Jamie Sparks

lead P1 and P3. roof was interesting LARGE LOOSE BLOCK ON P3 (THE POINTY FLAKE)
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/10 with euan

Absolutely mental climb. Far harder at the crux than I could have expected. My forearms were completely shot by the time I had pulled round the overhang and on to the slab
Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Jon Coutts

M_W_Court - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

al99 - 2nd dog - 18/Sep/10 with Luke Thomas

Physically a brute of a climb.
clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Anna

Christopher Roberts - AltLd - 10/Aug/10

cliff jones - Aug/10

very wet.a real horror show! amazing climb though. rested on a gear whilst just before getting my feet on top slab.
dan ely - Lead dog - 21/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10

scorky345 - Lead - 05/Jul/10 with Tim Oates, Owen Pearce

tim20 - 2nd - 05/Jul/10 with sam corcoran

petellis - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with mattyork2

In a oner
mattyork2 - Lead - 26/Jun/10 with Pete Ellis

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Andy Stripp

AndyStripp - Lead - 12/Jun/10

CarolineH - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/10 with Dave

Nails.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/10 with CarolineH

Sandbag
david morse - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Juan

Alexandre Buisse - 2nd - 01/Jun/10 with Dave E. Brown

London Luke - AltLd O/S - Jun/10

Brown - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Alexandre Buisse

tigertim - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Tony Payne

2nd pitch. Hard.
smallerrich - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10

First pitch only. Couldn't pass another party.
farmus21 - Lead dnf - 30/May/10 with Eugene Theron

Dave Reeve - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Steve Hordley

led first pitch, last was way trickier than expected!
Joby - AltLd β - 30/May/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/May/10

not very technical, but a bit pumpy. 3 star
adam06 - 2nd - 16/May/10 with andy davies

samrad - AltLd - 01/May/10 with tom rip

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 01/May/10 with Chris Coleman

hilty - Lead O/S - May/10

Pulled on a runner low down! Hard...through both overlaps. Interesting moves! Even top pitch interesting!
hepitt - AltLd - 28/Apr/10 with Rob Pitt

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10 with Helen Pitt

hilty - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/10

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/10 with Harry Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

Great route. Crux was definitely awkward, but never too tricky.
Ken Applegate - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/10 with Hannah Evans

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Apr/10

Dropped the rope off the top of the pitch. Wired shimmy climbing move required.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Gaz

did it one of 50m ropes! it was fantastic
nutallovertheface - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with matt b

classic route, cool in the afternoon shade, awkard as ever but the most controlled of my 4? ascents of this so far
ksjs - 2nd rpt - 07/Mar/10 with jo

Beylaed for 2 hours in the rain. Then climbed it really angry. Couldn't communicate well with Sally so she kept the rope ded tight cos there was big rope drag and otherwise there was way too much slack. Couldn't do the ledge bit properly cos had no slack and she couldn't hear me ask. was brilliant climb anyway. I slipped off at least twice.
Bron - 2nd dog - 14/Feb/10 with Sally Lisle

Sally Lisle - Lead - 14/Feb/10 with Bron

mr mills - 2010 with edwin

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

simeclimb68 - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

alasdair19 - 2010

centurion05 - 2010

soph - Lead - 2010

soph - Lead - 2010

Sophie Nunn - AltLd - 13/Dec/09

37degrees - AltLd - 21/Oct/09 with Andy Leivers

Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Heather

hetaher - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Mike

Luke Brooks - 2nd rpt - 25/Sep/09

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/09

Led P2 (main one). Had seconded once before in rain
theotherpetehill - AltLd RP - 18/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09

second overhang is awesome,great exposure and positions,like someone commented before,the loose rock/hold at the top was abit scary
RobRock84 - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Adam Bevan

Got trapped by fear and arkward moves in the corner under the roof. Disappointed not to do it cleanly.
shane54 - Lead dog - Aug/09

Superb route and good battle.
Cowflinger - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09 with Dai Morris

Hidden - AltLd dog - 25/Jul/09

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Tim Evans

What an amazing route, why did i take so long to get round to it? You've really got to earn this one and its all the more sweeter for it.
mynyddresident - 24/Jul/09 with Kelly

Raining but just dry enough
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Peter Hill

Eetu - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Olli

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09

Hard!
jim.barritt - TR dog - 07/Jun/09 with Paul Warnock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09

Dave Thompson - AltLd O/S - 28/May/09 with John Evans

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 04/May/09 with Kev

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/09

Hidden - AltLd - 03/May/09

simonp - Lead O/S - May/09 with Nicki Hearne

sgl - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Mallard

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09

Got the fun top pitch, unusual and very entertaining.
Richard Hession - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/09 with John

MONKEY78 - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with adam ellwood

fell off coming out of the roof a few times
metal arms - Lead dog - 02/Jan/09

en7edh - 2nd - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

inuklm - AltLd O/S - 2009 with Dave Gent

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Andy

Definately a route for a hard core thug.
Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 01/Nov/08

P1
barni - AltLd rpt - 27/Oct/08 with Liam fleming

mikelaing - 2nd - Oct/08 with Pete Harrison

Awesome! Lead main pitch, top overhang is BIG! Watch out for the loose block on the top pitch, its also big
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/08 with David Fountain

Glyn lead 5b pitch though to the top. I led first pitch up to just below the 'proper' stance.
davefount - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/08 with Glyn

Misha - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Sarah

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Aug/08

Led pitch 2
davidgent - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Kunal

tlmarjot - 2nd O/S - Aug/08 with James Marjot

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/08

Jim Walton - AltLd - 19/Jul/08 with Steve Pugh

Hidden - Lead dog - Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/08

I CONQUERED YOU BARBARIAN!!!
Sgt. Vest - AltLd rpt - 17/May/08 with gareth thomas

I lead the first pitch Will lead the second pitch. Second pitch is apsolutely and completely horrendous!!!! My hardest route to date, I had to spend some time dangling seconding the roof.
Gareth_Thomas - AltLd β - 17/May/08 with Sgt. Vest

thunderstormed off, grrr
Sgt. Vest - AltLd dnf - 11/May/08 with sophie wilmes

Thunderstorm prevented us finishing the second pitch - abbed off
sonnenstern - AltLd dnf - 11/May/08 with Will Malcolm

Hidden - AltLd dog - 05/May/08

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 04/May/08

i couldnt believe how much i struggled on the crux despite it being my third time on the route (previous 2 efforts were leads too!)
ksjs - 2nd rpt - 20/Apr/08 with sarah

the juicy dangler - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/08 with Carlene Hill and Andy Marshall

This felt like by far the hardest thing i've ever climbed at any level, including bouldering, and i did a sodding V9 in 2 hours last week!!! I've heard of some climbs suiting different people to differing degrees but this was insane, i fell off trying to get out from under the niche 4 times, and i was bloody seconding it!!!
@ndyM@rsh@ll - 2nd dog - 16/Apr/08 with Carlene Hill and Richard Bennett

Carly - AltLd - 16/Apr/08 with richard/ andy

Led 2nd Pitch
Al Franks - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/08 with Harry Allan

Led 2nd pitch
Alasdair88 - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/08 with Nicki

kitkat78 - AltLd dnf - 15/Feb/08 with SteveM

Matt Vigg - 2008

barni - Lead - 2008 with Si

Sean Kelly - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Stone Muppet - Lead dnf - 2008

Marcus - 2008

did the oaky cocky on the top overhang. PUMPY. My mate shouted to these girls to find out where I was they replied he's stuck under everythin. Johny then moooed his way up the route the cows mooed back. gr8 route
Dale - AltLd O/S - Nov/07 with johny

led the 2nd pitch. wild climb shame its a little vegetated.
joe larner - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/07

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Rob Grant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07

4m whipper from the finish hold. A snad bag if one - E2 5C
Jack Symmons - Lead - 17/Aug/07 with Chris T

Hardest thing I've climbed to date, have a new found respect for E1, think I thought 'I hope that was the crux' about 4 times, even the exit was tricky.... or maybe i was just knackered by then.... :O)
tokendream - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with Mark Gill

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with helen gibson

What a buzz! Was shaking so much after the big roof that I took the optional belay just before the final few feet of climbing - had also run out of gear ...
Siderunner - Lead O/S - 06/May/07 with Mike P

Mick B - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07 with Matt Brennen

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/07 with Holly Adamthwaite

A Very good climb, needing a delicate touch to work the roofs. Quite low in the grade.
IanJackson - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/07 with Big Ian

done as a single pitch (60m ropes). def at the top end of the grade! some desperate moves at the second bulge! heel hooking helps.
Morgan Woods - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/07 with Gareth

Hidden - 2nd dog - Apr/07

Andy Ray - 2nd dog - 03/Feb/07 with Ian and Soph

Rob Kennard - 2007

willjones - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 2007

P1, P2 = A1
Wayne S - 2007 with Jon Croxford

Overhangs and slab where dripping and soaked in places: my excuse for falling anyway. One of the best E1's I've done!!
Dan 85 - AltLd dog - 16/Dec/06 with Tim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Nov/06

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 16/Sep/06

chris j - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Ben Bradford

Chesh - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/06 with Phil B

Did not lead main pitch which is fortunate as it was incoherently tricky!
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 30/May/06 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/06

Phil did 5b pitch.
ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/06 with Phil Taggart

Damn tough those overhangs
bsu20c - Lead - 23/Jan/06 with claire

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Nathan Kemp - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Rhys Barnes Miller

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/05

Hidden - Lead dog - May/05

Tried and failed! Nice fall from the roof though, hit the slab below on rope stretch when my Cam popped!
Simon Palmer - Lead dnf - May/05 with Colin Riggs

a_radiohead_fan - 2005

MarkDavies36 - Lead O/S - 2005 with Katrin Thomas, Jill Singleton/Davies

Hidden - 2005

KRB - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/04 with Chris & Martin

Nathan Kemp - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/04

Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - May/04 with Claudia Whitcombe

Fantastic climb, difficult for the extremes in height! Fantastic thrutch-fest past the second roof - Brilliant!
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead O/S - Apr/04

nige - 2nd - 21/Feb/04 with dave kells

Roget - Lead O/S - 2004

Seconded as a novice and found it a nightmare!
Owen W-G - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/03 with Dan & Jim

spidey - Lead - 19/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/03

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - Jul/03

tommy82 - 2nd - 24/Nov/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/02

cem - Lead dog - 28/Sep/02 with Pete Atkinson

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/02 with Chris Bird

nickdonohue - Lead - Apr/02 with Ian Brenton

cem - Lead dog - 05/Aug/01 with Miles Butteriss

I went wrong way on crux pitch, fell several times and got hurt, Adam took over and we got rained-off, abseiled off a dubious peg. I have a score to settle with this climb!
Andy S - AltLd dnf - Jun/01

akhughes - Lead O/S - 2001

Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - 2001 with Dave A

DavidR - AltLd dnf - 07/May/00 with John Marston

Marti999 - AltLd - 2000

timmy-ts - 2000

bullybones - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - 2000

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 1999

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/98

frost - Lead O/S - Jul/98

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/May/98

Guy - 1998

WB - AltLd O/S - 1998

Julian Wedd - Lead - 1998 with Dave Evans

babymoac - 2nd - 12/Jul/97 with Chris F

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 1997 with Vicki

Led 2nd pitch. What a roof. What a well named climb! Guidebook should read, layback still difficult crack above roof before strength fades!
Scott McRae - AltLd O/S - 25/May/96 with Martin Hore

craig h - AltLd O/S - 11/May/96 with Janet Hannah

michael burrows - Lead rpt - 25/Feb/96 with brian jones

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1996

Budge - AltLd O/S - 1995 with Rod Gritten

Big Rik - 1995

michael burrows - 2nd - 25/Sep/94 with andy boorman

leadmat - Lead O/S - Sep/94 with Hosey B

Hidden - Lead - 11/Apr/94

Hidden - AltLd - 1994

3 Names - 2nd O/S - Jul/93 with Richard Parry

3 Names - 2nd O/S - Jul/93 with Richard Parry

Hidden - Lead - 01/May/93

Budge - Lead O/S - May/93 with Richard Teed

leadmat - Lead O/S - 1993

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/92

Budge - AltLd O/S - 1992 with Richard Teed

Andy Say - Lead - 22/Jun/91

Chris Wright - Lead - 30/May/91

malc - AltLd dog - 25/Mar/91 with DW

steve taylor - 2nd - Mar/91 with stumpy

biggianthead - 1991 with HT

Hidden - Lead - 07/May/90

whispering nic - May/90 with Tim PYB

DDDD - 1990

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - 1990

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/89

mark-abz - Lead - 04/May/89 with Phill R

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1989

Hidden - 1989

AndrewP - AltLd - 1989

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/88

sadams - Lead - 23/Apr/88 with Andy Mitchell

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/88 with pete roberts

ChrisJD - Lead - 31/May/87

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/87

John Marsland - Lead - 08/Mar/86 with Tony Rex

Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - 22/Feb/86 with Rory Park

daprince - 1986

JamieAyres - Lead dog - Aug/85 with Phil Windall

Mark Kemball - Lead - 08/Dec/84 with Dan Symonds, Paul Metcalf

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Nov/84

wynaptomos - Lead O/S - Oct/84

MikeYouCanClimb - Lead - 26/May/84 with Adam

Melok - 1984

there was an ab rope in place
stp - Solo O/S - 19/Nov/83

Then graded HVS, and felt like 'the hardest thing I've ever led'!
Gordon Stainforth - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/83 with Robert Barton

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1983 with Chris Ensoll

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1982

ewar woowar - Lead - 1982

tapley - Lead - 18/Jul/81 with Chris Seymour

steve L - Lead - 01/Aug/80

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/80

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 28/Jun/80 with Wawa

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Apr/80

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1980 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - 1980

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd - 1979 with Alan Walmsley

Hidden - Lead - 1978

Definitive HVS
Ian Jones - Lead rpt - 1978 with Chris Newton

Nigel Bond - Lead - 03/Jul/77 with Tony Cuddy

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/77

GeoffG - 2nd - 09/Apr/77

Fell twice from above the roof trying to foot traverse the ledge. Cracked the back of my helmet! Eventually climbed it in 1980
Mark Kemball - Lead dnf - 19/Mar/77 with Stuart Robinson

Had seconded Nigel Helliwell in early 1970's.Climbed periodically as Barbarian, or the crux on Mangolesi(original line) or on the girdle. Most recently on 1.6.2011 (lead).
David Smith - Lead - May/76 with Al Bennett

Mike Owen - 07/Mar/76 with Sandy Doby

ian caton - Lead O/S - 1976

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/75 with Roger Everett

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 04/Jun/75

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

petemeads - Lead - 11/May/74

greenbuoy - 2nd - 02/Aug/70 with Terry Taylor

mikej - AltLd - 17/Apr/68 with Humph Thompson

mikej - AltLd - 12/Apr/67 with Mike Byles

mikej - AltLd dnf - 11/Apr/67 with Keith Gregson

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/66

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, andy75, ItsHuwHaribo, Luke Smithwick, Col Kingshott, Mike Nolan, Kevin Robert Jones, jandyd05, Katex, Sebastien Gastaud, zchael6, Dino Dave, justin burgoyne, iceaxejuggler, jonnyridleylogan, gareth r, PanzerHanzler, fran04, Mike Parker, Different Steve

Voting
Total votes cast 288
hard E20 of 102
E20 of 102
easy E212 of 102
hard E149 of 102
E136 of 102
easy E12 of 102
hard HVS3 of 102
HVS0 of 102
easy HVS0 of 102
hard 5c1 of 97
5c0 of 97
easy 5c14 of 97
hard 5b63 of 97
5b17 of 97
easy 5b1 of 97
hard 5a1 of 97
5a0 of 97
easy 5a0 of 97
3 Stars63 of 89
2 Stars22 of 89
1 Star2 of 89
0 Stars0 of 89
Bag of .....2 of 89
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf