Cumbria > Bowfell Buttress >
 
Ledge and Groove* IV 5

Adjacent Climbs
<< Central Route
 
North Gully >>
115m, 4 pitches. Climbs an open groove line on the right edge of the buttress. No detailed description available please feel free to submit one. Pitch grades 3, 4, 4+, 4+. © ROCKFAX
Climbs an open groove line on the right edge of the buttress. Start just left of North Gully. P1 (4): Follow a line on the right hand side of the buttress past a tricky slab and a snowy ledge to a stance on the right hand side of the next ledge, above North Gully. P2 (4): Go up from the stance to a wide snowy ledge below a steep wall. Move a few metres left and torque up a crack in the wall to a sloping snowy ledge above. Move right along this to a good stance on the edge of the buttress, above North Gully. P3 (4/5): Traverse into North Gully (two lines possible, the upper one is harder), then climb an excellent chimney to a spike belay. P4 (4/5, sustained): Move rightwards to the base of an obvious groove and climb turf and thin neve to a good rock belay. A short snow saddle followed by some easy ground leads to the top.
FA. R.Graham, L.Steer 10/Jan/1991
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 3 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Lots of powder made this tough, difficult to find gear so it felt run out and full on grade V. Pitches today felt 4,5,5,6. Great effort by Matt to second the last pitch in the dark without a headtorch.
Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Matthew Robinson

Matthew Robinson - 2nd - 05/Dec/10 with Martin

Were going to do Bowfell Buttress but it was pretty bare on the steeper sections so did this route instead as it looked in better winter nick. The short cruxes on P1 and P2 were fairly lean but the rest of those pitches had good neve and turf. P3 and P4 were in good winter condition due to being out of the sun on the North side of the buttress. P3 provided a tricky traverse followed by a really enjoyable chimney. P4 proved to be the best mixed pitch I had done to date. Bomber turf but quite thin neve in places on spaced gear. Led P2 and P4.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/10 with Tom

Voting
Total votes cast 5
hard V0 of 1
V0 of 1
easy V1 of 1
hard IV0 of 1
IV0 of 1
easy IV0 of 1
hard III0 of 1
III0 of 1
easy III0 of 1
hard 60 of 1
60 of 1
easy 60 of 1
hard 50 of 1
51 of 1
easy 50 of 1
hard 40 of 1
40 of 1
easy 40 of 1
3 Stars1 of 3
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