Gwynedd > Craig y Castell (Tremadog) >
 
Tensor*** E2 6a

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Cruel Tone >>
[Nick on Tensor 1969, 3 kb]This route was traditionally aided, hence grades of HVS in some guidebooks. Nowadays the approaches to the aid section (pitch 2) are very polished, adding to the difficulty. If you want to do without the aid, then be warned that 'grade' is very reach-dependent, probably 6a on average. If you aid it, then check the condition of the pegs, but note that you can get wires in just above them. After the crux, the route degenerates into unsatisfying scrambling. This route goes through sensational territory, but I find it hard to recommend it.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: Nick on Tensor 1969 © Al Wheeler
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 68 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

khawk - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with DT

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13

Lead p2
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with chris todd

greenclimb - Lead dog - Apr/13 with sarah

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/13 with Will

Well happy to do this, it has been on the list ever since seeing the pic of Joe Brown, smoking a fag whilstclimbing the route, in the PYB reception.
willoates - AltLd - 28/Feb/13 with Luke

Hard crux. Nice hot day for Feb.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Nat White

JonnoP - AltLd - 28/Jul/12 with Chad

Really enjoyed this one, the guy who wrote the description above obviously had a bad time on the crux! Lovely moves all the way on perfect rock lead to a memorable bouldery crux over the top roof. Only shame is that it's a bit unbalanced being mostly 5a/b then one 6a move, but classic route all the same, worth three stars....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with JonnoP

One lob trying to get my feet over the roof...pulled ropes and dispatched. Exciting air time!
david morse - AltLd RP - 26/Aug/11 with lole

Roz lead pitch 1, I lead pitch 2
Vince McNally - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Roslyn Mckendry

Led P1 - very easy. Didn't quite have enough burl to make it over the final roof on P2.
givemetea - AltLd dog - 23/Jul/11 with Vince

offroute - Lead - 26/Jun/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

no peg now!
phil64 - Lead rpt - May/10 with rachie

davefount - 2nd dog - 11/Apr/10 with Glyn

Great climb. Ignore the comments above regarding the quality of the route. It is hardly polished at all. The crux is quite hard and reachy but is super well protected with small cams under the roof. The climbing leading up to the roof is also of top quality.
Glyn - Lead β - 11/Apr/10 with David Fountain

mr mills - 2010 with paul simkiss

Hidden - 2010

As inspired by 'The Master' at work in the black and white photo in Oggy Cot. dinning room
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Pete Harrison

Seymore Butt - 2009

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 04/Jul/08 with Dad

Matt Vigg - 2008

Matt Vigg - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Brown - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07 with Neil

Hidden - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Easy but superb.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 2004 with Karen Ghiselli

Roget - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/01 with baccy

WB - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/00 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/00

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Feb/98

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Oct/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/95

1 fall
michael burrows - AltLd dog - 14/May/95 with brian jones

frost - 2nd - May/95 with J Turner

Ched - Lead O/S - 1995 with Glanfor

rob.grafton - 1995 with Ben

Fail to free it had to aid it
Budge - Lead dnf - 1994 with Ceri Jones

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/90 with Andy W

ChrisJD - 2nd - 07/May/90

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/88

ChrisJD - Lead dog - 04/Jul/87

DDDD - 1987

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 16/Aug/86 with Kim Greenald

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 1985 with Bill Williamson

Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1985 with RW

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Apr/84

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/84

keefe - 17/Apr/84

Hammy - 2nd - 22/Feb/81 with Rob Lawson

Hidden - Lead - 1980

Early free ascent, not a brilliant climb (not as good as Pellagra).
petemeads - Lead - Aug/78 with Steve Taylor

Hidden - AltLd - 15/May/78

Mike Owen - 06/Nov/77 with John Roberts

Used both pegs for aid.
Mark Kemball - Lead - 30/Jul/77 with Paul Clark

steve691 - 1977

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 1976 with John Brailsford

Falko - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/75 with Al W.

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

Steve led the crux, led later several times including 19/9/1992
David Smith - AltLd - 1975 with Steve Foster

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Kevin Robert Jones, lambspread, Dizz, JRae, drcorbasisgod, rob askew

Voting
Total votes cast 56
hard E30 of 19
E30 of 19
easy E31 of 19
hard E215 of 19
E23 of 19
easy E20 of 19
hard E10 of 19
E10 of 19
easy E10 of 19
hard 6b0 of 18
6b0 of 18
easy 6b0 of 18
hard 6a9 of 18
6a7 of 18
easy 6a2 of 18
hard 5c0 of 18
5c0 of 18
easy 5c0 of 18
3 Stars5 of 19
2 Stars13 of 19
1 Star1 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead23 of 68 (33.8%)
Followed7 of 68 (10.3%)
Alt Leads21 of 68 (30.9%)
Unknown17 of 68 (25.0%)

'Climbed'39 of 68 (57.4%)
clean O/S20 of 68 (29.4%)
clean β1 of 68 (1.5%)
clean rpt1 of 68 (1.5%)
clean RP1 of 68 (1.5%)
dogged5 of 68 (7.4%)
dnf1 of 68 (1.5%)