Tensor** E2 6a
[Nick on Tensor 1969, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A stunning top pitch makes this route what it is. Sustained with a hard pull through the final roof on the second pitch. Start at the foot of a slab below a large roof.
1) 4b, 28m. Climb up the slab just to the right of the tree that dominates the central grove. Near the top, traverse right under the roof to gain a ledge above and right.
2) 6a, 25m. Move down to a traverse line above the lip of the roof. Follow this until you can step up to the next roof and scuttle sideways to below a prominent groove. Move up the groove to a small niche and move up and right (possible peg?) to the final roof. A stiff pull through this is rewarded by a very large jug and a great degree of relief. Follow the groove above to the ledge and belay.
3) 4b, 10m. Move up and left from the belay on rock with amazing friction, then trend up and left to the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
This route was traditionally aided, hence grades of HVS in some guidebooks. Nowadays the approaches to the aid section (pitch 2) are very polished, adding to the difficulty. If you want to do without the aid, then be warned that 'grade' is very reach-dependent, probably 6a on average. If you aid it, then check the condition of the pegs, but note that you can get wires in just above them. After the crux, the route degenerates into unsatisfying scrambling. This route goes through sensational territory, but I find it hard to recommend it.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Nick on Tensor 1969 © Al Wheeler
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 109 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 15/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Jun/15

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/Jun/15

P2 such a good route!! wasnt expexcting to get to the top at all which made it seem a whole lot better!
shaunhumphreys - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/15 with benkelsey

spent ages trying to get the nut out in the roof til I realised it wasn't shauns then didn't have the power for the crux. good lead from Shaun though with the leaders will!! 3 *'s
benkelsey - AltLd dog - 21/Jun/15 with Shaun Humphreys

Hidden - 2015

mike mo - 2015

mike mo - 2015

mike mo - 2015

mike mo - 2015

mike mo - 2015

mike mo - 2015

jcw - 2015

Easy route except for the roof, which took a couple of up and downs to figure out super safe with small cams.
dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Harry Wickham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/14

Hidden - AltLd dog - 04/May/14

maybe_si - AltLd O/S - 01/May/14

Dan Vaj - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/14 with James Machaffie

Bob - 2014

Quite blind but not too bad once you commit to pulling past the overhang (led pitch 2/crux).
Dan724 - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/13 with Ben Ryle, Dan Ely

Aided. To unfit
BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/13 with Dan, Dan Ely

Led P1, seconding is a nightmare trying to get quickdraws outve pegs!
smallerrich - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/13

khawk - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with DT

Led p2. Didn't really want to do it as I thought I'd be spat off but once into the crux I was immersed and loving it. Hardest move for me was clipping the top peg, over the lip crimp your way up some crozzles and dyno for the jug! Awesome climbing. definate 2 stars! Steady for 6a too, I reckon, and I'm a shorty.
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Fingers

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13

Lead p2
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with chris todd

greenclimb - Lead dog - Apr/13 with Sarah

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/13 with Will

Well happy to do this, it has been on the list ever since seeing the pic of Joe Brown, smoking a fag whilstclimbing the route, in the PYB reception.
willoates - AltLd - 28/Feb/13 with Luke

Hard crux. Nice hot day for Feb.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Nat White

PAJames - 2013

JonnoP - AltLd - 28/Jul/12 with Chad

Really enjoyed this one, the guy who wrote the description above obviously had a bad time on the crux! Lovely moves all the way on perfect rock lead to a memorable bouldery crux over the top roof. Only shame is that it's a bit unbalanced being mostly 5a/b then one 6a move, but classic route all the same, worth three stars....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with JonnoP

One lob trying to get my feet over the roof...pulled ropes and dispatched. Exciting air time!
david morse - AltLd RP - 26/Aug/11 with lole

Roz lead pitch 1, I lead pitch 2
3 Names - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Roslyn Mckendry

Led P1 - very easy. Didn't quite have enough burl to make it over the final roof on P2.
givemetea - AltLd dog - 23/Jul/11 with Vince

Liam FLeming - Lead - 26/Jun/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

no peg now!
phil64 - Lead rpt - May/10

davefount - 2nd dog - 11/Apr/10 with Glyn

Great climb. Ignore the comments above regarding the quality of the route. It is hardly polished at all. The crux is quite hard and reachy but is super well protected with small cams under the roof. The climbing leading up to the roof is also of top quality.
Glyn - Lead β - 11/Apr/10 with David Fountain

mr mills - 2010 with paul simkiss

Hidden - 2010

As inspired by 'The Master' at work in the black and white photo in Oggy Cot. dinning room
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Pete Harrison

Seymore Butt - 2009

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 04/Jul/08 with Dad

Matt Vigg - 2008

Matt Vigg - 2008

Marcus - 2008

Brown - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07 with Neil

Hidden - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Easy but superb.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 2004 with Karen Ghiselli

Nigel Coe - 2nd dog - 15/Sep/02 with Scott Titt

Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - 2002 with Dave A

Roget - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/01 with baccy

WB - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/00 with Paul

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/00 with Hugh

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Feb/98

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Oct/97

Hidden - 2nd - 1996

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/95

1 fall
michael burrows - AltLd dog - 14/May/95 with brian jones

frost - 2nd - May/95 with J Turner

Ched - Lead O/S - 1995 with Glanfor

rob.grafton - 1995 with Ben

Fail to free it had to aid it
Budge - Lead dnf - 1994 with Ceri Jones

Nick Biven - Lead - 03/May/91 with Ian Sherrington

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/90 with Andy W

ChrisJD - 2nd - 07/May/90

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/88

ChrisJD - Lead dog - 04/Jul/87

DDDD - 1987

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 16/Aug/86 with Kim Greenald

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 1985 with Bill Williamson

Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1985 with RW

TonyF - Lead O/S - Aug/84 with Tony Cox

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Apr/84

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/84

keefe - 17/Apr/84

Hidden - 1984

Hidden - 1984

Hidden - Lead - 1983

steveboote - Lead - 1982

Hammy - 2nd - 22/Feb/81 with Rob Lawson

Hidden - Lead - 1980

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 05/May/79 with Elaine Watson

Early free ascent, not a brilliant climb (not as good as Pellagra).
petemeads - Lead - Aug/78 with Steve Taylor

Hidden - AltLd - 15/May/78

one peg aid on overhang
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 1978 with Pete Thexton

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 06/Nov/77 with John Roberts

Used both pegs for aid.
Mark Kemball - Lead - 30/Jul/77 with Paul Clark

Mike Owen - 2nd rpt - 12/May/77 with Sandy Doby

steve L - 1977

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/76 with John Roberts

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 1976 with John Brailsford

Falko - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/75 with Al W.

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

Steve led the crux, led later several times including 19/9/1992
uphillnow - AltLd - 1975 with Steve Foster

rockofades - Lead - 1973 with MC

Ian led hard pitch (2). Brilliant, great climb. We did it using peg so HVS 5b grade
eroica64 - AltLd - 07/Oct/70 with Ian Napier

mikej - AltLd - 06/Feb/70 with Pete Boardman

mikej - AltLd - 17/Apr/67 with Geoff Williams

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Kevin Robert Jones, lambspread, JRae, drcorbasisgod, rob askew

Total votes cast 74
hard E30 of 25
E31 of 25
easy E31 of 25
hard E218 of 25
E25 of 25
easy E20 of 25
hard E10 of 25
E10 of 25
easy E10 of 25
hard 6b0 of 24
6b0 of 24
easy 6b0 of 24
hard 6a11 of 24
6a10 of 24
easy 6a3 of 24
hard 5c0 of 24
5c0 of 24
easy 5c0 of 24
3 Stars7 of 25
2 Stars17 of 25
1 Star1 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP