Rockfax Description
12m. The continuation provides a fitting finale - low in the grade but awkward enough to keep you working. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of Brimhams best known classics, its first recorded extreme . Follow the twin cracks of Frensis to the overhang, then move left and tackle the bulging crack. Brilliant.

Allan Austin 14/Apr/1957

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Allan Austin Classics, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

gateaublaster 17/Oct TR dog

After attempting the lead and taking my first real lead fall backed off and top roped to collect my gear.. Will come back to try this again

with soph
Hidden 26/Sep Lead O/S
Jono_LS16 13/Sep Lead O/S
DBoothroyd 08/Sep Lead dog

Blocked the crucial jam with gear, bad strats

with Chris Marsden
JenShelley 16/Aug Lead dog
Rhi Rhi 16/Aug 2nd


with Shellj1
Didymus 12/Aug 2nd dog
1poundSOCKS 12/Aug Lead O/S

Quality route. I didn't find the top section much harder than the VS start, but that probably depends if you can find the holds quickly enough, they are all there, no need to thrutch and no requirement for offwidth skills!!!

Rachel Slater 18/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun 2nd
Alpenglow 24/Jun 2nd dog

One rest. Easier when you know the sequence. Pretty pumpy though.

with Oliver G, Ruairidh
The Reaper 30/May Lead dog

Dogged to death. Very sequency and not the best warm up.

cpforbes 10/May 2nd dog
Gabe Oliver 10/May Lead O/S

A classic grit battle in the top crack.

Hidden 10/Apr Lead O/S
Razza 10/Apr 2nd dog
Adamski1986 21/Feb 2nd
Tim Rodgers 21/Feb Lead
jimorothy 16/Nov/14 2nd

I say second... but actually Scott led Frensis and I could not, despite several million efforts, finish that traverse/reach/mantelshelf - fact that it was very wet and slimy might not have helped. So the E1 direct with rope above was the softer option, which went fine, but then I had a rope above. Tempted to have a look at the lead now.

with Scott Barnett
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Wizzy 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Had to fight for this! Not really my bag

Jonathan Richardson 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Sam Watson, Emma
CragDog 09/Aug/14 Lead RP
Calum Wadsworth 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Worthy of its three stars, great route and brilliant peotection.

with Ruairidh Wadsworth, Phillip Wadsworth
Hidden 07/Jul/14 Lead dog
theomoore 06/Jul/14 Lead RP

dogged it first

watson23 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S
kyaizawa 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Not sure what all the fuss is about... thought it was pretty soft at E1. A combination of a pinch, slopers and crimps after the hand jam, high feet and no thrutching involved...

Emma Reynolds 24/Jun/14 2nd
Climbster 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 14/Jun/14 Lead G/U

Have wanted to try this for ages and its excellent, managed to work out a good sequence so the top wasn't a complete thrutch!

with Matt
Ed carrigan 19/May/14 Lead
Olli-C 17/May/14 Lead dnf

Took a winger from the top, Swanny finished it for me.

with Swanny, Chris Waddle
Hidden 16/May/14 Lead O/S
Mike Todd 08/Apr/14 Lead dog


with Harrogate MC
peterhubbard 30/Mar/14 2nd
with Conrad
oread 22/Mar/14 Lead O/S

First E1 (Onsighted!)

nick ferro 09/Mar/14 Lead
with Oli Birkill
Nez ??/2014 -
Hidden 17/Oct/13 Lead dnf
ladymuck 28/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/13 2nd dog
pebbles 31/Aug/13 Lead dog

ran out of pasty, boo! climbed up, got stupidly pumped fiddling too long with thread, decided to downclimb to rest but arms melted and slumped on rope at very last minute. pulled rope after rest, tried again but still ended up sitting on rope before finally figuring the crux out. oh well. next time ....

with poppy, ali
climberchristy 31/Aug/13 Lead rpt

A fine route. Done a few years ago. Easier now.

with Keith Swainson
Hidden 31/Aug/13 2nd
FragOcon 13/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
SMThompson1 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S

A great E1 with positive holds. This is definitely on my wish list for my first E1 lead.

with John Burrow
adamwesthead 28/Jun/13 Lead dog

First onsite E1 for 12 years even though it was dogged whilst arranging gear at the top

with Zeb
zebster 28/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Adam
David_Gledson 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Alan
SPD224 04/Jun/13 2nd
with Martin Smith
RossT 25/May/13 2nd
with Andrew Edwards
C May ?/May/13 2nd
with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder ?/May/13 Lead
with C May
lanky and weak 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Katie
pebbles 21/Apr/13 2nd
with paul s
henry peter jenkins 07/Apr/13 Lead

nice route. tried this a while back on top rope and couldnt do it (with mark) then went back to lead it about a year later and kept falling of on to a nut (tom,gaz,emilio) now a couple of years later got the retro flash. put to bed!

pie_eater_pete 21/Feb/13 2nd rpt
with bwestwood
bwestwood 21/Feb/13 Lead
mark sadler ??/2013 Lead
with rob
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead β
climbingpixie 21/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Got up it cleanly but only just!

with Andy
PaulHermes 07/Oct/12 2nd
with Tibor
minT(HUN) 07/Oct/12 Lead dog
with PaulHermes
petekeron 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Steve Brock
betamonkey 03/Jul/12 2nd dog

Andy led Frensis. Tried to second up the Direct finish

Freshprintce 29/May/12 Lead
with Mike Hewitt
Matt Harle 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Mattyk 12/May/12 Lead β

Finally.. no idea what all the fuss is about once your foot is up its not to bad. very pleased!

with John Marsham
egg-man 01/Apr/12 Lead dnf

Two falls from crux before submission.

with Chris Vernon
Hidden ?/Mar/12 2nd dog
robertmctague ??/2012 Lead
mikekeswick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 19/Nov/11 Lead dog
ianjfsutcliffe 30/Oct/11 Lead dog

Wet. Green. Horrendously pumpy.

with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 30/Oct/11 2nd dog
petegunn 22/Sep/11 Lead

Excellent, tricky top out :)

with Davina
Hidden 22/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead
chrishedgehog 05/Jul/11 Lead dog

One minor indiscretion at exactly the same point when everyone else goes...

with Kieran Myles
theotherpetehill 03/Jul/11 Lead

This was a yo-yo - Andy led to the crux, placed all gear, got pumped and came down. I tied on and climbed up and through the crux.

with Andy Harper
Jimmy1976 22/Jun/11 2nd dog

Total cock up of first part, pumped and rested on rope. Rested again just before the E1 top part.

with Simon
Simonj 22/Jun/11 Lead dog
with jim
JamieSparkes 14/Jun/11 Lead dog
Tony Holdsworth 09/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Dan McKinlay
ewan i 02/Jun/11 2nd dog
Laurence Everitt 02/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Ewan Irvine, Gareth C
MeMeMe 04/May/11 Lead

Retro flash - I think I seconded this years ago when some random's second couldn't get up it.

with Katie
Hidden 15/Apr/11 Lead
coombsy 07/Apr/11 Lead β
with Danny C
andy mcc 02/Apr/11 2nd
with Rich Connors
ollyroberts 29/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Matty
Tom Keaveny 29/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Olly
PaulTanton 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Anthony Dixon 09/Mar/11 Lead dog
SPD224 09/Mar/11 2nd

Struggled up the route with frozen hands...not the most elegant and balletic of climbs.

joshen 06/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Jonathan Hall 20/Nov/10 2nd
disturbed_one51 20/Nov/10 Lead

great route, shame that the top is scarily green and slimey in novemeber

with Wee man
Hidden 20/Oct/10 2nd
rockrat 20/Oct/10 Lead
Graeme Hammond 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

The final roof felt hard at the end of the day but after several climbs up and down climbs and almost falling off determination paid off! (after finding the right hold) fantastic lower crack too. Abseiled down so Jim could lead

with Jim
Jim Slater 12/Sep/10 Lead dog

Frigged the top moves..arms bolloxed..thought it was going be an easy E1 tick...I was mistaken!

Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd rpt
knicos 04/Sep/10 Lead
cobweb 29/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Roger Waterworth
Martin Haworth 21/Aug/10 Lead

On Tony's gear.

with Tony
shouter 03/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead β
jkarran 20/Jun/10 Lead

Ground up after some sort of pathetic failure on the initial crack and a fall from the top years ago.

with Grant, Pete
GrantB 20/Jun/10 2nd
petellis 02/Jun/10 2nd rpt
mattyork2 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Great day out with Peter!

Tez29 24/May/10 2nd β

Hard for the grade

with Ivan
JohnAI 23/May/10 2nd
Ewan Russell 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with John Imrie, Dan Roberts
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Apr/10 2nd
markalmack 27/Mar/10 Lead rpt

i would like to say retro flash

with anna baker
Andy Graham ??/2010 Lead rpt
PeteH 12/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Last few moves green - made it a bit interesting :) Bomber gear though.

NaomiHart 12/Dec/09 2nd dog

Only one rest almost at the top to sort out frozen fingers! Lovely route though - great laybacks up the grooves

Hidden 15/Sep/09 Lead dog
Alex Winter 04/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 04/Sep/09 2nd
lithos 29/May/09 Lead β

2nded 10 years ago - so a retro flash, intriguing top crack and great hexs ! Didnt remember any of it other than the pump !

pebbles 29/May/09 2nd dog

ooh that top out is hard

with rob
Peter Holder 25/May/09 Lead β
with Adam Rawlings
jimdanson 11/May/09 2nd
with Bob Curry
duzinga 22/Apr/09 Lead
with Pete and Katie
Hidden 22/Apr/09 2nd
Katie Marshall 22/Apr/09 2nd
with Pete Mac, Tuze
Rich Thornton ?/Apr/09 TR rpt
with Andy Roberts, Fiona Mingay, Sam Davison-Webb, James Harland
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Will Hunt 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Completely desperate at the top. Everything slopes!

with Xavier Nuttall
Rich Kawecki 30/Jul/08 TR dog

pulled up on rope past crux, top crack

with Chris Wilson
IanJackson 27/Jun/08 Lead
with Peter
GrantB 17/Jun/08 Lead
petellis 17/Jun/08 2nd rpt
PaulHermes 15/Jun/08 2nd
with Stewart VCCC
betamonkey 20/May/08 2nd dog
with Jonny Baker
Rich Thornton ?/May/08 TR RP
with Fiona Mingay, James Harland
Hidden 30/Apr/08 2nd
Jack00 29/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Good rest out to the right on the ledge. Gather yourself, then go for it!

with Shaun L
howlingbaboon 19/Mar/08 2nd dog

numb fingers

with Crofty and Guido
Alex Mason 18/Mar/08 Lead O/S

proper good gritstone

with Mike Pike
dazbarker 27/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Howie
Andrew1 27/Jan/08 Lead
Hidden 27/Jan/08 2nd
clive-greenwood ??/2008 2nd
with Holly
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead rpt
IanJackson 06/Nov/07 2nd rpt
with ShaunL
Hidden 04/Oct/07 2nd
joe larner 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Chad123 16/Sep/07 Lead dnf

Fine all the way to the top then kept slipping off last holds due to heavy rain - bailed up normal route!

with Rik
Adam1973 17/Aug/07 2nd
IanJackson 17/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Adam
mje1398 11/Aug/07 2nd dog
with John M
Hidden 06/Apr/07 2nd dog
Andy Ray 17/Mar/07 2nd dog

A pretty poor attempt on my part.

with Sam Walters
Nick Beckett 03/Jan/07 Lead
Kevster ??/2007 -
nickwhimster ??/2007 Lead dog
with Steve Hodgeson
Ram MkiV 04/Sep/06 Lead

Failed on this years ago possibly attempting it as a first E1 - a bad choice! (I rested on the rope at the thread without really understanding that it was illegitimate tactics.) Finally laid to rest 4(?) yrs on.

with Dan and Nick
Luke Brooks 08/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Alexander
DavidR 02/Jul/06 Lead dog
with Holly Adamthwaite & Matt Hopkinson
Different Steve 17/Jun/06 2nd dog
alicia 10/May/06 Lead O/S

My first E1! great climb, worth the stars

with Ali K
King Rat ??/2006 2nd O/S
with A
Karl Bromelow ??/2006 -
Hidden 18/May/05 2nd O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2005 -
Hidden 27/Nov/04 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich ?/May/04 Lead

Seconded early in career and subsequently took 3 attempts to free. Top (E1)section can be baffling onsight and stops folk. All straightforward after experience though... (no shit sherlock!)

Hidden ?/May/04 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead dog
shoulders 26/Jun/03 Lead
with dave
pezzerrr 25/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 2nd dog
Scottish78 14/Aug/02 Lead dog
with Fiona G
Hidden 19/Jun/02 Lead β
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead
adam carless ?/Jun/02 2nd O/S
craig h ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/99 2nd
Bug ??/1999 -
Russell Lovett 18/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with andrew haigh
Tenko 06/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Dave Allen
John Southworth 25/Aug/97 Lead O/S
nai 17/Aug/97 Solo
with Cal
andrew300169 17/Aug/97 Lead dog

Just couldn't commit to the crux

with Pom
Hidden 28/May/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S
uphillnow 13/May/96 Lead

also with g exley and joe

with Mark Gray
rob.grafton 05/Sep/95 2nd
with Bruce
Tom V 30/Apr/95 -
rob.grafton 12/Mar/95 Lead
with Bruce
ian caton ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Matt
Mick King 29/Jul/93 Lead
with Simon Walsh
Chris Reid ?/Mar/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/92 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/92 Lead dog
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Rich Kirby 06/Oct/91 Lead O/S
with Luke
Roget 13/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
kato'sdad 11/Aug/91 Lead
with Jerry Mattinson
leathers ?/Jun/91 2nd
with James Thomas
Hidden 02/Aug/90 Lead O/S
malc 15/Jul/90 2nd dog
with T Higgins
Pete Pozman 24/Apr/90 Lead rpt
with John Byrne
PaulTanton ?/Feb/90 Lead O/S
with Toby Briggs
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Dad
Pete Pozman 13/Sep/89 2nd O/S
with John Byrne
babymoac 02/Oct/85 Lead dog
with Bob Hunter
bullybones ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 27/May/82 AltLd
mikej 28/Aug/73 TR
with John Bickerdyke
Dave Musgrove 10/Jun/73 Lead
with Bob Knapton
Hidden ??/1973 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mark1800, Henry Brett, Tom Bishop, Hidden, Hidden, ebf, Chris1234H, richardw87, jammy4536, alias dave, Hidden, pebbles, jonnybull, Jonathan Spooner, Richard P Coates, mfisher, a13x, igraham, Hidden, Hidden, MilesMcgennity, peppermill, andybuckley, Peter Smith, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, Hidden, MikeLeeds, betamonkey
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set