Frensis Direct*** E1 5b
[Purple Steve starting out on Frensis Direct (E1 5c), Brimham Rocks, North Yorkshire, 2 kb]11m.

Rockfax Description
12m. The continuation provides a fitting finale - low in the grade but awkward enough to keep you working. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
One of Brimhams best known classics, its first recorded extreme . Follow the twin cracks of Frensis to the overhang, then move left and tackle the bulging crack. Brilliant.

Allan Austin 14/Apr/1957

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Allan Austin Classics, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Purple Steve starting out on Frensis Direct (E1 5c), Brimham Rocks, North Yorkshire © Matt
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 227 logbooks, and on 26 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/15

Jono_LS16 - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/15

Blocked the crucial jam with gear, bad strats
DBoothroyd - Lead dog - 08/Sep/15 with Chris Marsden

JenShelley - Lead dog - 16/Aug/15 with Rhiannon

Rhi Rhi - 2nd - 16/Aug/15 with Shellj1

Jon Didymus - 2nd dog - 12/Aug/15 with Matt Coburn

Quality route. I didn't find the top section much harder than the VS start, but that probably depends if you can find the holds quickly enough, they are all there, no need to thrutch and no requirement for offwidth skills!!!
1poundSOCKS - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/15

Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15 with Nick Smith

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/15

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Jun/15

cpforbes - 2nd dog - 10/May/15 with Gabe Oliver

A classic grit battle in the top crack.
Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with cpforbes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/15

Razza - 2nd dog - 10/Apr/15

Adamski1986 - 2nd - 21/Feb/15 with Tim Rodgers

Tim Rodgers - Lead - 21/Feb/15 with Adam Gregg

I say second... but actually Scott led Frensis and I could not, despite several million efforts, finish that traverse/reach/mantelshelf - fact that it was very wet and slimy might not have helped. So the E1 direct with rope above was the softer option, which went fine, but then I had a rope above. Tempted to have a look at the lead now.
jimorothy - 2nd - 16/Nov/14 with Scott Barnett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14

Had to fight for this! Not really my bag
Wizzy - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14

Jonathan Richardson - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Sam Watson, Emma

CragDog - Lead RP - 09/Aug/14

Worthy of its three stars, great route and brilliant peotection.
Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/14 with Ruairidh Wadsworth, Phillip Wadsworth

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Jul/14

dogged it first
theomoore - Lead RP - 06/Jul/14 with robertmctague

watson23 - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/14

Not sure what all the fuss is about... thought it was pretty soft at E1. A combination of a pinch, slopers and crimps after the hand jam, high feet and no thrutching involved...
kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14 with Emma Reynolds

Emma Reynolds - 2nd - 24/Jun/14 with Ky Aizawa

Climbster - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Ian

Have wanted to try this for ages and its excellent, managed to work out a good sequence so the top wasn't a complete thrutch!
Bloke on a Rope - Lead G/U - 14/Jun/14 with Matt

Ed carrigan - Lead - 19/May/14 with jack colbeck

Took a winger from the top, Swanny finished it for me.
Olli-C - Lead dnf - 17/May/14 with Swanny, Chris Waddle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/14

Mike Todd - Lead dog - 08/Apr/14 with Harrogate MC

peterhubbard - 2nd - 30/Mar/14 with Conrad

First E1 (Onsighted!)
oread - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/14

nick ferro - Lead - 09/Mar/14 with Oli Birkill

Nez - 2014

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Oct/13

ladymuck - 2nd - 28/Sep/13 with Andy Worster

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/13

ran out of pasty, boo! climbed up, got stupidly pumped fiddling too long with thread, decided to downclimb to rest but arms melted and slumped on rope at very last minute. pulled rope after rest, tried again but still ended up sitting on rope before finally figuring the crux out. oh well. next time ....
pebbles - Lead dog - 31/Aug/13 with poppy, ali

A fine route. Done a few years ago. Easier now.
climberchristy - Lead rpt - 31/Aug/13 with Keith Swainson

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Aug/13

FragOcon - 2nd - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/13

A great E1 with positive holds. This is definitely on my wish list for my first E1 lead.
SMThompson1 - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with John Burrow

First onsite E1 for 12 years even though it was dogged whilst arranging gear at the top
adamwesthead - Lead dog - 28/Jun/13 with Zeb

zebster - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/13 with Adam

David_Gledson - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Alan

SPD224 - 2nd - 04/Jun/13 with Martin Smith

RossT - 2nd - 25/May/13 with Andrew Edwards

C May - 2nd - May/13 with Tim

Longsufferingropeholder - Lead - May/13 with C May

lanky and weak - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13 with Katie

pebbles - 2nd - 21/Apr/13 with paul s

nice route. tried this a while back on top rope and couldnt do it (with mark) then went back to lead it about a year later and kept falling of on to a nut (tom,gaz,emilio) now a couple of years later got the retro flash. put to bed!
henry peter jenkins - Lead - 07/Apr/13 with robbie jenkins

pie_eater_pete - 2nd rpt - 21/Feb/13 with bwestwood

bwestwood - Lead - 21/Feb/13

mark sadler - Lead - 2013 with rob

Hidden - Lead β - 21/Oct/12

Got up it cleanly but only just!
climbingpixie - 2nd O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Andy

PaulHermes - 2nd - 07/Oct/12 with Tibor

minT(HUN) - Lead dog - 07/Oct/12 with PaulHermes

petekeron - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/12 with Steve Brock

Andy led Frensis. Tried to second up the Direct finish
betamonkey - 2nd dog - 03/Jul/12 with Andy Wilson

Freshprintce - Lead - 29/May/12 with Mike Hewitt

Matt Harle - Lead O/S - 20/May/12

Finally.. no idea what all the fuss is about once your foot is up its not to bad. very pleased!
Mattyk - Lead β - 12/May/12 with John Marsham

Two falls from crux before submission.
egg-man - Lead dnf - 01/Apr/12 with Chris Vernon

Hidden - 2nd dog - Mar/12

robertmctague - Lead - 2012

mikekeswick - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Nov/11

Wet. Green. Horrendously pumpy.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead dog - 30/Oct/11 with Coatesy

Richard P Coates - 2nd dog - 30/Oct/11 with ianjfsutcliffe

Excellent, tricky top out :)
petegunn - Lead - 22/Sep/11 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/11

One minor indiscretion at exactly the same point when everyone else goes...
chrishedgehog - Lead dog - 05/Jul/11 with Kieran Myles

This was a yo-yo - Andy led to the crux, placed all gear, got pumped and came down. I tied on and climbed up and through the crux.
theotherpetehill - Lead - 03/Jul/11 with Andy Harper

Total cock up of first part, pumped and rested on rope. Rested again just before the E1 top part.
Jimmy1976 - 2nd dog - 22/Jun/11 with Simon

Simonj - Lead dog - 22/Jun/11 with jim

JamieSparkes - Lead dog - 14/Jun/11 with Ben Finlay, Dafydd Llywelyn

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 09/Jun/11 with Dan McKinlay

ewan i - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/11

Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 02/Jun/11 with Ewan Irvine, Gareth C

Retro flash - I think I seconded this years ago when some random's second couldn't get up it.
MeMeMe - Lead - 04/May/11 with Katie

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/11

coombsy - Lead β - 07/Apr/11 with Danny C

andy mcc - 2nd - 02/Apr/11 with Rich Connors

ollyroberts - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/11 with Matty

Tom Keaveny - 2nd dog - 29/Mar/11 with Olly

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/11 with Helen Fawcett

Anthony Dixon - Lead dog - 09/Mar/11

Struggled up the route with frozen hands...not the most elegant and balletic of climbs.
SPD224 - 2nd - 09/Mar/11 with Anthony Dixon

joshen - Lead dnf - 06/Mar/11

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 20/Nov/10 with Mark Williams

great route, shame that the top is scarily green and slimey in novemeber
disturbed_one51 - Lead - 20/Nov/10 with Wee man

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Oct/10

The final roof felt hard at the end of the day but after several climbs up and down climbs and almost falling off determination paid off! (after finding the right hold) fantastic lower crack too. Abseiled down so Jim could lead
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Jim

Frigged the top moves..arms bolloxed..thought it was going be an easy E1 tick...I was mistaken!
Jim Slater - Lead dog - 12/Sep/10 with James Lismore, Graeme Hammond

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Sep/10

knicos - Lead - 04/Sep/10 with Erin Dunn

cobweb - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/10 with Roger Waterworth

On Tony's gear.
Martin Haworth - Lead - 21/Aug/10 with Tony

shouter - Lead - 03/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Jun/10

Ground up after some sort of pathetic failure on the initial crack and a fall from the top years ago.
jkarran - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with Grant, Pete

GrantB - 2nd - 20/Jun/10 with James, Alpha Red

petellis - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/10 with mattyork2

Great day out with Peter!
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10 with Pete Ellis

Hard for the grade
Tez29 - 2nd β - 24/May/10 with Ivan

JohnAI - 2nd - 23/May/10

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with John Imrie, Dan Roberts

Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/10

i would like to say retro flash
markalmack - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/10 with anna baker

Andy Graham - Lead rpt - 2010

Last few moves green - made it a bit interesting :) Bomber gear though.
PeteH - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/09 with Naomi Hart

Only one rest almost at the top to sort out frozen fingers! Lovely route though - great laybacks up the grooves
NaomiHart - 2nd dog - 12/Dec/09 with Peter Hart

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Sep/09

Alex Winter - Lead - 04/Sep/09 with C. Prescott

2nded 10 years ago - so a retro flash, intriguing top crack and great hexs ! Didnt remember any of it other than the pump !
lithos - Lead β - 29/May/09

ooh that top out is hard
pebbles - 2nd dog - 29/May/09 with rob

Peter Holder - Lead β - 25/May/09 with Adam Rawlings

jimdanson - 2nd - 11/May/09 with Bob Curry

duzinga - Lead - 22/Apr/09 with Pete and Katie

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/09

Katie Marshall - 2nd - 22/Apr/09 with Pete Mac, Tuze

Rich Thornton - TR rpt - Apr/09 with Andy Roberts, Fiona Mingay, Sam Davison-Webb, James Harland

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Completely desperate at the top. Everything slopes!
Will Hunt - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/08 with Xavier Nuttall

pulled up on rope past crux, top crack
Rich Kawecki - TR dog - 30/Jul/08 with Chris Wilson

IanJackson - Lead - 27/Jun/08 with Peter

GrantB - Lead - 17/Jun/08 with Alpha Red

petellis - 2nd rpt - 17/Jun/08 with Alpha Blue

PaulHermes - 2nd - 15/Jun/08 with Stewart VCCC

betamonkey - 2nd dog - 20/May/08 with Jonny Baker

Rich Thornton - TR RP - May/08 with Fiona Mingay, James Harland

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Apr/08

Good rest out to the right on the ledge. Gather yourself, then go for it!
Jack00 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/08 with Shaun L

numb fingers
howlingbaboon - 2nd dog - 19/Mar/08 with Crofty and Guido

proper good gritstone
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/08 with Mike Pike

dazbarker - 2nd O/S - 27/Feb/08 with Howie

Andrew1 - Lead - 27/Jan/08 with Chris Fisher

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jan/08

clive-greenwood - 2nd - 2008 with Holly

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2008

IanJackson - 2nd rpt - 06/Nov/07 with ShaunL

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Oct/07

joe larner - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07

Fine all the way to the top then kept slipping off last holds due to heavy rain - bailed up normal route!
Chad123 - Lead dnf - 16/Sep/07 with Rik

Adam1973 - 2nd - 17/Aug/07 with IanJackson

IanJackson - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/07 with Adam

mje1398 - 2nd dog - 11/Aug/07 with John M

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Apr/07

A pretty poor attempt on my part.
Andy Ray - 2nd dog - 17/Mar/07 with Sam Walters

Nick Beckett - Lead - 03/Jan/07

Kevster - 2007

nickwhimster - Lead dog - 2007 with Steve Hodgeson

Failed on this years ago possibly attempting it as a first E1 - a bad choice! (I rested on the rope at the thread without really understanding that it was illegitimate tactics.) Finally laid to rest 4(?) yrs on.
Ram MkiV - Lead - 04/Sep/06 with Dan and Nick

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/06 with Paul Alexander

DavidR - Lead dog - 02/Jul/06 with Holly Adamthwaite & Matt Hopkinson

Different Steve - 2nd dog - 17/Jun/06 with Martin Hore

My first E1! great climb, worth the stars
alicia - Lead O/S - 10/May/06 with Ali K

King Rat - 2nd O/S - 2006 with A

Karl Bromelow - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/May/05

Stone Muppet - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/04

Seconded early in career and subsequently took 3 attempts to free. Top (E1)section can be baffling onsight and stops folk. All straightforward after experience though... (no shit sherlock!)
Cragrat Rich - Lead - May/04

Hidden - Lead - May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead dog - Oct/03

shoulders - Lead - 26/Jun/03 with dave

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/03

Hidden - 2nd dog - 2003

Scottish78 - Lead dog - 14/Aug/02 with Fiona G

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Jun/02

Hidden - Lead - Jun/02

adam carless - 2nd O/S - Jun/02 with Nick Smith - UKC

craig h - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/99

Bug - 1999

Russell Lovett - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/98 with andrew haigh

Tenko - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/98 with Dave Allen

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/97

nai - Solo - 17/Aug/97 with Cal

Just couldn't commit to the crux
andrew300169 - Lead dog - 17/Aug/97 with Pom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/96

rob.grafton - 2nd - 05/Sep/95 with Bruce

Tom V - 30/Apr/95

rob.grafton - Lead - 12/Mar/95 with Bruce

ian caton - Lead O/S - 1994 with Matt

Mick King - Lead - 29/Jul/93 with Simon Walsh

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - Mar/93

ChrisJD - Lead - 19/Aug/92

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Aug/92

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - Lead O/S - 1992 with Paul

Hidden - Lead - 1992

Hidden - Lead - 1992

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/91 with Luke

Roget - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/91 with Jonathan T

kato'sdad - Lead - 11/Aug/91 with Jerry Mattinson

leathers - 2nd - Jun/91 with James Thomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/90

malc - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/90 with T Higgins

Pete Pozman - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/90 with John Byrne

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - Feb/90 with Toby Briggs

Marti999 - Lead - 1990

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 1990 with Dad

Pete Pozman - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/89 with John Byrne

babymoac - Lead dog - 02/Oct/85 with Bob Hunter

bullybones - Lead - 1985

Hidden - AltLd - 27/May/82

mikej - TR - 28/Aug/73 with John Bickerdyke

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 10/Jun/73 with Bob Knapton

Hidden - 2nd - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ebf, Chris1234H, richardw87, jammy4536, alias dave, pebbles, jonnybull, Jonathan Spooner, Richard P Coates, a13x, igraham, MilesMcgennity, peppermill, andybuckley, Peter Smith, PanzerHanzler, MikeLeeds, betamonkey

Total votes cast 121
hard E20 of 42
E20 of 42
easy E22 of 42
hard E112 of 42
E122 of 42
easy E16 of 42
hard HVS0 of 42
HVS0 of 42
easy HVS0 of 42
hard 5c0 of 41
5c0 of 41
easy 5c3 of 41
hard 5b3 of 41
5b34 of 41
easy 5b1 of 41
hard 5a0 of 41
5a0 of 41
easy 5a0 of 41
3 Stars32 of 38
2 Stars5 of 38
1 Star1 of 38
0 Stars0 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP