28m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
24m. An excellent mini-expedition. Stances can be taken along the way. Climb Chiseller to its top then move round the arete and climb a groove. Cross the flake to a small ledge and then finish up the crucial crack above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Deservedly regarded as one of the finest climbs in Yorkshire, even with the hype it is unlikely to disappoint. The route allows mortals to unlock the secrets of the Cow, leading the climber outwards and upwards across the famous old face to joyously celebrate among the ancient carvings of the summit.
Originally regarded as a VDif, most commmonly viewed as Severe, Ken Wilson's Classic Rock now lists it as Hard Severe... is the climb getting harder or are we more and more surprised by it? Dangerous if wet.

(1) At the left hand side of the Cow's front face you will find a short four metre chimney, climb this using a good back and foot technique. Enter the cave in the gully and climb easily up behind the chockstone to a wide ledge. There is an excellent thread belay here. (10m)
(2) Using the thread, ensure the second is sitting on top of the chockstone for the belay to limit rope drag. Creep easily out of the cave, around the Cow's rib and step down to a small platform below a corner with a polished crack. The corner has two very difficult stages that are climbed directly to a giant flake (the upper crack conceals decent handholds within its depths to aid confidence). While the natural line of ascent could be continued up the flake, the classic route traverses rightwards along a ledge, using the underside of the flake for upward handholds to reach a reasonably sized, if not slightly unlikely, platform on the centre of the face below the main overhang: optional belay here, probably dependent on rope drag and whether the wind is hindering communication. (13m)
(3) From the platform, climb up behind the right hand flake awkwardly with a likely body wedge to reach a stance below the crux. A narrowing of the crack prevents the knee passing upwards from a polished downward-sloping foothold. A slight layback on the polished edge at the back of the crack is required and combined with a probable body lunge to gain the crack. From here an easy mantleshelf lifts you onto the glorious summit. (5m).

Unknown 1902

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven.

neuromancer 04/Oct Lead O/S

Ran it all out as one pitch. A small brass nut protects the first part of the climb if you have a good reach. Don't be tempted to try and use the large flake on the body of the climb for your feet - it gets a bit tricky!

KLPearson 04/Oct 2nd
with Joseph
metcalfe1990 03/Oct Lead
DBoothroyd 10/Sep Solo O/S
JoshT91 10/Sep Lead β
with Chris Marsden
Hidden 30/May AltLd O/S
shaun hunt 30/May AltLd
Morgan P 08/May Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May Lead O/S
philgillespie 26/Apr 2nd
poigol5043 23/Apr 2nd
with Jenny Quarmby, Mare
Andy Moles 05/Oct/14 Solo O/S

A polished ledge-shuffle covered in bird poo and rubbish, deserving of exactly none of the above superlatives. Thankfully not 'one of the finest climbs in Yorkshire', or even Ilkley, or I would probably never visit again. OK I'm done now :)

with Ferdia
gav 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

A bit of an adventure! I lead the chiseler as P1 which was effectively a solo. Mark then lead round into the cave, where he spent 10 minutes getting his ropes twisted and failing to extend any of his gear. He eventually made it under the arete, where he untied one rope and threw it to me to remove some of the knitting. Crawling under the overhang, he then set up a belay at the bottom of the flakes on the other side. I then lead through, climbing the flakes, traverse and final grovelly groove which is poorly protected and and awkward struggle. Mark then succeeded in getting his finger stuck in a crack for 20 minutes while seconding the final pitch. A good "traditional" experience, but probably not /really/ 3*. There is quite a bit of pigeon crap about, and rubbish in the final crack, but the climbing itself is fun.

with Mark
Jacob Forshaw 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S
poigol5043 11/Sep/14 AltLd

Lead Second Pitch

with Matt Elliott
Wizzy 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Alex the Alex 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A for arse I presume. From green slime into pigeon poo and upwards to a grovelling finishing crack... Had to use a Tactical Knee.

papashango 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Cow Udder into the top of this, dirty...

luke321 30/Aug/14 2nd
nick ferro 23/Aug/14 -
thomaspomfrett 30/Jul/14 AltLd rpt

Ed lead p1, I ran p2&3 together.

with Ed Poulter
shah 20/Jul/14 Solo β

Night solo in approach shoes. Slightly awkward positioning.

shah 18/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Covered in what can only be called bird-shit. Awkward positions for tall people. Seconded in boots.

SafeNath 03/May/14 2nd β

Thrutch crux.

with ao
jonnysims 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Tried this last year when it was spitting with rain and did not have the balls to complete the step across the chimney as described in rockfax guide. Glad I went back to it, great little climb.

with Andy Laing, andy knight
guisboro andy 13/Apr/14 AltLd
with jonny sims, Andy k
John Brayshaw 08/Apr/14 AltLd rpt
with Keith Roberts
Nez ??/2014 -
metcalfe1990 ??/2014 Lead
Whitty2012 16/Nov/13 AltLd
Hidden 28/Sep/13 AltLd
jimorothy 26/Sep/13 Lead

Lead repeat. Brothers on the Cow... superb. No idea why Rockfax tried to change such a sublime route, probably because the move into that cave in front of the chockstone is trad hard. To miss out on the undercling trav and picnic ledge beneath the overhang would detract massively from the atmosphere. Such a class belay.

with Rory McKeating
K Mckay 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Covered in poo.

with Rich Pooley
Matt Cooke 14/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
with Andrew Cooke
SPD224 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/13 -
Hollywood 13/Aug/13 -
with karly54
BnB 30/Jul/13 -
Alpenglow 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Very dirty. The last 5 or so meters is the dictionary definition of thrutching!

with Greg
GAshby 16/Jul/13 2nd O/S
adamwesthead 11/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

Just as far as the belay then carried on to do the ferdinand hand travere. Seconded p2

with Zeb
zebster 11/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
with Adam
Hidden 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
tobyk 11/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Emma Akam
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/May/13 -
Hidden 07/May/13 2nd
jshields 05/May/13 2nd

First led Sept.'94 with Sarah.

with Jonathan Harrison, Ed James
scrambler8848 ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with dom mckensie
Hidden ?/May/13 -
rfdl100 14/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Rikki
Montecore 13/Apr/13 2nd
with Richard Lizzimore
ERH ??/2013 -
Seymore Butt ??/2013 -
mikecollins 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Laura D
mattwilk 04/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led 2. Brilliant route, great exposure and sense of scale for a relatively short route. Loads of variety and some great, and worrying moves. Rockfax route suggests you belay on top of the flake which seems like a really bad / difficult idea. Got led into this and had all sorts of problems, ending in a hanging belay! A true epic with a finish in the dark!

with Rich
rich.wy 04/Sep/12 -

Night time dash up the final pitch. Fun first multi.

with matt
Tenko 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Neil Ashcroft, Matthew Diggle
matt.budge ?/Aug/12 -
David Cowley 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Liam Martin 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Very awkward and unnatural climb. dirty with glass bottles behind the flake and in the exit crack. dont know why this gets 3* in the guide book.

with David Cowley
Harry Holmes 15/Jul/12 Solo O/S
with Joanna
Dino Dave 14/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
with Fergus, Sam
samthom 14/Jul/12 AltLd
with Fergus, Dave
mzchambers 25/May/12 Solo O/S
Mr Fuller 23/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2, an absolute beaute!

bigredsquirrel 23/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 AltLd rpt
John Brayshaw 07/May/12 AltLd rpt
with Josh
jcurrie93 07/May/12 AltLd
clint87 06/May/12 Lead
alias dave 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Sam.EB
Sam Simpson 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/12 Lead O/S
stev1e.wilso 26/Feb/12 2nd

I found this quite scary. Thanks to Simon for leading all the pitches. A great route but shame about all the pigeon poo. Climbed in three pitches starting up chiseller.

with Simon
simon1985 26/Feb/12 Lead
petegunn 24/Feb/12 AltLd

Tricky with the layer of Pigeon Poo!

with Davina
Hidden 24/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson ??/2012 AltLd O/S
oread ??/2012 AltLd
thetradlad 03/Dec/11 Lead rpt

enjoyed so much the first time but disappointed when i came back. Far too much pigeon crap and litter everywhere unfortunately.

with Faith, Louise Hall
Louise Hall 03/Dec/11 2nd O/S
Boj S 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S

lead all the pitches, very good route. Last pitch in the dark and i used the big cam on the belay ledge, awkward scary top out.

aJmes1 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S
kitkat78 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

1 and 3

with SteveM
SteveM 29/Aug/11 AltLd
with Kat
Steve Lenartowicz 21/Aug/11 Lead
with Clare
dannyboy83 21/Aug/11 Solo O/S
stewart100 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S
AMJ098 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 09/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Steve M
SteveM 09/Jun/11 AltLd
with Rachael
Graeme Hammond 30/May/11 Lead O/S

as one pitch, very extended runners so no rope drag

with Becky E
Becky E 30/May/11 2nd
Hidden 16/May/11 AltLd O/S
munch88 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
succa89 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with munch88
Tom Keaveny 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Luke Harper
luke harper 24/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Scottish78 ??/2011 -
SteveM ??/2011 AltLd
with Kat
David Kay 14/Nov/10 Lead

Started on chiseller, nice moves around the bulge and into the overhang, set up another belay because of rope drag. The last pitch to the top was covered in bird s*** and the last moves to the top were an awkward struggle. Good mini adventure, maybe not 3***...

Hidden 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
jonny taylor 17/Sep/10 2nd
with James
Jimmy O 17/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Chris Ellis 12/Sep/10 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
Hidden 02/Sep/10 2nd
adamwesthead 24/Aug/10 AltLd β

zeb took the second pitch

with Zeb
zebster 24/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Adam
dazwan 11/Aug/10 2nd
with Woody
farmus21 08/Aug/10 2nd
with Jo
farmus21 08/Aug/10 Solo
with Jo
Hidden 02/Aug/10 AltLd
ankyo ?/Aug/10 -
1918hasti 31/Jul/10 AltLd
djprepie 29/Jul/10 2nd
with Lee
yatess79 02/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Simon Caldwell 29/Jun/10 Lead rpt

First pitch by the original start - having done them both a couple of times, I think it's better than Chiseller and more in keeping with the rest of the route - just make sure you back-and-foot the right hand chimney, rather than walking up the broken rocks to the left! Not sure if the move right into the cave is more awkward with feet on the ledge (from Chiseller) or hands (from the chimney) - both are rather unnerving! Finished via Ferdinand.

with Carmen
pebbles 29/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

took ages as had to wait half an hour at the first belay for the extremely slow team ahead of us then another half hour at the second belay. But worth gritting our teeth and waiting to complete it - a unique route and a real giggle. donal p1, p3, me p2. Followed gritstone guide and did the slab start rather than the chimney start - improbable and fun move round the giant chockstone, then did second belay at the niche to avoid rope drag. follwed top of flake rather than hanging off underside - both seemed equally possible. Cunningly offloaded dangling gear to donal at the top before getting stuck into final offwidth! PS the slab start is miles better than the poxy gully aka chimney

with donal
samcook 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Did original start up the gully as freaked out on chiseller certain I was going to fall to my death so down climbed (chipped holds VERY polished!). Then did Ferdinand Hand Traverse to finish - fecking solid!

with Damian
thetradlad 25/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd and 3rd Pitch. AMAZING!

with Dan Tyas
Jonny M 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Andre Knirsch
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd
daprince ?/Jun/10 -
cjbaker 28/May/10 AltLd O/S

I took the first, Vince the finale...

vincentchopper 28/May/10 AltLd O/S

I lead the second pitch. Somewhat underwhelming. Scary exposure but the moves are lame. Don't believe the hype.

Andrew Wilson 14/May/10 AltLd O/S

I lead pitches 1 and 3

John Brayshaw 14/May/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
spannard 12/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Very good climb, watch out for rope drag!

lrandall 03/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Nice climbing. No need to do it in three pitches though, just run the last two togethor.

with Andy C
Ewan Russell 01/Oct/09 AltLd O/S


with Tom postgrad
reubensampson 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Bird S**t paradise!!

with Gareth Threlfall
David_Gledson 20/Sep/09 Lead
with Andy Quinn, Mike Quinn
MikeDowsett 06/Sep/09 AltLd
with John Harrison, Pete Scott
raptorheli 12/Aug/09 Lead O/S

rob led the first pitch and i led the rest in one push

with rob
robblowen 12/Aug/09 2nd β
with Simon
Mark Salter 09/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
stevevoidstar 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Good trad style climbing. Wall climbers will hate it! We had a mini-epic but got there in the end

with Scott Chafer
shugsan 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
duzinga 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Omer
Hidden 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
timbo58 ?/Jul/09 Lead
al jackson ?/Jun/09 Lead
Dave Foster 23/May/09 2nd O/S

What a let down. Green and covered in bird shit, a truly disgusting experience. Smelled as though someone had vomited down the last crack and it was full of glass bottles and beer cans.

with Andy
Hidden 22/May/09 Lead O/S
adamwesthead 09/May/09 Lead O/S
with Forshaw
willworkforfoodjnr 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with J Airey
Daniel Sutherland 22/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with Chris
good_value 21/Mar/09 2nd dnf

I think we finished it this time but my notes say not! This route gives me the willies!

with Rob S
good_value 01/Mar/09 2nd dnf

First multi pitch. Cold and damp. Rob lost bottle. One for next time. Exposed.

with Rob S
TerryB ??/2009 2nd O/S

Climbed in Mountain Boots. Probably one of the best 25m that I have ever done. What variety!

Teappleby ??/2009 Lead
with max
kitch22 01/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch. Hard crux.

lankystreakof 01/Jul/08 2nd
with John Walsh
jimorothy 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Truly one of the finest short climbs I have come across. Having visited the crag my whole life, it was a major surprise to find such a large shelf in the centre of the Cow - you could have a picnic at the second belay!... perhaps.

with Rachel Crolla
cyril 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 06/Jun/08 AltLd rpt
Hidden 06/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
cat22 04/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Andy B
Zoomer 02/Jun/08 Lead

Super polished and exposed, got a shock! Student was parping it.

with A Student
Hidden 20/May/08 Solo O/S
Rawstron1 15/May/08 2nd O/S

Started from the cave after climbing Chiseller. Bit bold for me. glad I wasn't attempting to lead it.

with Tim
Hidden 11/May/08 Lead O/S
GrandmaOfShoes 11/May/08 AltLd O/S

led pitch 2

joe_alexander 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S

lead pitches 2+3 as one. covered in guano and cider...

with Henry Castle
JdotP 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Bjarte Grytli Seim
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
JSA ??/2008 -
Will Hunt 24/Oct/07 AltLd rpt

Lead P1 Gully start this time.

with Steve Sharland
Will Hunt 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S

A great climb that let me touch the Cow. Really traditional in nature and a pleasant surprise to have 2 pitches on a grit route. Lead both pitches.

with Annie
net 01/Sep/07 AltLd

Massive faff, great fun.

with Neil & Tanya
Neil Pacey 01/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/07 AltLd
connor 20/Jul/07 Lead
with simon holdsworth
Will Smith 10/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3. Pitch 2 is definitely the most interesting, but they are all very varied and give a good climb overall.

with Richard Storrie
Hidden 10/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden 02/Dec/06 AltLd O/S
jonny taylor 02/Dec/06 AltLd O/S

Ropes and clothes needed a wash after leading the pigeon-infested second pitch

with Flicka
Hidden ?/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
mje1398 30/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with John M
Hidden 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Benwa ?/Sep/06 2nd O/S
dellboy 22/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Stuie 21/Jul/06 AltLd
with James Dell
Cletus the rock climbing cowboy 17/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Rob
Dax H 15/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Marcus Evans
Hidden 09/Jul/06 Lead
robman 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Craig
Hidden 03/Jun/06 2nd
Birdie 19/Mar/06 2nd
with Matt K
Birdie 19/Mar/06 2nd
with Matt K
attitudeclimber ??/2006 TR β
with paul gibson
pnorth ?/Dec/05 TR dnf
with Tim Ewington
penrithblencathra 26/Nov/05 Lead
with Ed or Jon
erica 14/Sep/05 2nd
with John
John Brayshaw 14/Sep/05 Lead rpt
with Erica
Simon Caldwell 28/Jun/05 Lead rpt

Previous ascent I took the original start, so this was my first ascent of Chiseller

with Carmen
clive-greenwood ??/2005 Lead O/S

Alternate leads with Mike.

MikeLeeds ??/2005 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/04 Lead rpt
DavidR 27/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Aidan McGuffie
Hidden 12/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Mattyk 24/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/04 Lead
Nobby ??/2004 2nd
Hidden 07/Dec/03 AltLd O/S
Phil West 23/Nov/03 AltLd O/S
with Chris Tan & Shaun Walby
Hidden 16/Oct/03 AltLd
Hidden 13/Oct/03 Lead
Mark Collins 24/May/03 AltLd O/S
with Neil Henson
Neil Henson 24/May/03 AltLd
with Mark Collins
Hidden ??/2003 -
Stone Muppet ??/2003 -
sdht ??/2003 -
Hidden ?/Sep/02 AltLd
Hidden 21/Aug/02 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
stevo smith 06/May/02 AltLd O/S

Reapeted wi Art.smith (Lead all, Art. 2nd)

with Mark Hargreaves
Urgles ?/May/02 Lead O/S
with Fiend
Hidden ?/May/02 Solo
Just Another Dave 28/Mar/02 Solo O/S
Whealiebob ??/2001 -
with Robin
John Brayshaw 12/Sep/00 2nd rpt
with Andy Ellwood
smudge 02/Sep/00 Lead O/S
jim_randell 07/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
with SL, RL
Alaric 31/May/00 2nd O/S
with Syd F
alan moore ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 24/Sep/99 Lead rpt
with John Kennedy, Martin Cooper
John Brayshaw 07/Jul/99 2nd rpt
with Chris
Hidden 16/May/99 Lead dnf
MartinN 02/Apr/99 2nd O/S
Roget ??/1999 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
OriginalGeckoboy ??/1998 -
chrishedgehog 14/Aug/97 AltLd O/S
with Mark Gill and Pammy
Neil Conway 20/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/96 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Siderunner ??/1995 AltLd O/S
with Andrew D
thinair48 ??/1995 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 29/Jul/94 Lead rpt
with Richard Spryut
crater 22/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Rampikino 16/Apr/93 2nd
John Brayshaw 20/Sep/92 AltLd rpt
with Andy Farley
tapley 19/May/92 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Simon Caldwell ??/1992 AltLd O/S

Year is a guess! Took the original start. Can't remember whether we went up the left or the right side of the flake, just that it was a desperate struggle!

with Martin
Hidden ??/1992 -
steve prior ?/Sep/91 AltLd
with Paul B
Hidden 13/Apr/91 Lead O/S
PaulHermes ??/1991 -
Hidden 10/Mar/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1988 Solo O/S
rob.grafton ??/1987 AltLd
with barry maybank
Hidden 08/Sep/86 Lead O/S
Tim Bateman 30/Sep/85 Lead
Pete Pozman 29/Apr/85 2nd rpt
with Mark Walker
Tim Bateman 08/Mar/85 Lead
bullybones ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 06/Oct/84 AltLd
Pete Pozman 18/Mar/84 AltLd O/S
with Dev
99bolivar ??/1984 2nd
hazeysunshine ?/Jul/83 Lead O/S
Andy Say 01/Apr/82 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 01/Jun/81 AltLd O/S
with Shaun
John Marsland ??/1979 Lead
with Ken
Hidden ??/1979 AltLd
charlesmfrench ?/Nov/78 Solo
with Keith Milne, Ian Milne
John Marsland ??/1978 2nd
with Cliff Barker
Hidden 12/Apr/77 Solo
Tom V ??/1972 -
Howard Dixon ??/1971 Lead
with Martin Dixon
uphillnow ??/1969 -
with john preston
mikej 25/Aug/68 Lead
with Bill Lawrenson, Dave Williams, Nigel Sumner
greenbuoy 12/Apr/68 Lead
with G Habergam
mikej 18/Feb/68 Lead
with Bob Elsom, Robin Hudson
RichardMc 15/Oct/67 Lead O/S
with DUMC Freshers
Dave Musgrove ??/1965 -
jcw ??/1963 -
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