Ilkley (Cow and Calf)

Climbs 263 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Notable for New Statesman (E8 7a) which takes the compelling arete, but if you're not feeling up to that there are plenty of routes to entertain. Wellington Crack (E4 5c) is fun too.

Bouldering

CD = Cameron Duff

TC = Total Climbing

Access notes
Car Park 100m from the rocks. Bus and train to Ilkley approx. 3 km away - allow 40 min for the walk. Get off at Ben Rhydding for a shorter walk to the crag - 15 mins if you're a quick walker - up the obvious path through the small wood.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Northern England (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 DORIS BUTTRESS  
2Vital SparkS 12
3Sinister CracksVD 107
4Sinister RibE3 5b *49
5BlackballE3 5c *21
6DorisS 3c **183
7Bald PateE1 5a *23
8Doris DirectE4 7a **1
9Bald Pate Super DirectE6 6c * 
10Bald Pate Direct StartE2 5b **6
11DeathwatchE7 6b *28
12Little KaiserHS 4b 16
13Grand as OwtE3 6a 1
14Where Blue Tits DareE4 6b  
15SerendipityE2 5b *15
16Piton WallHVS 5a **52
17Transparent WallHVS 5a **108
18Sticky FingersE2 5c *32
19Magic PieHS 4b 5
20Desperate Dredd (Left Slab Variation)E3 5c  
21Desperate DreddE4 6a 6
 THE QUARRY  
23Highfield CornerHVS 5a 16
24NailbiteVD *323
25Central WallE1 5b 14
26Central RibHVS 5a 5
27Sand ChimneyVD *65
28Wellington ChimneyD *26
29Demolition DerbyHS 4a 6
30Overhanging BlocksHVS 5a 3
31The Stomach TraverseHS 4a 7
32Wellington CrackE4 5c ***69
33LoadedE8 7a *1
34Snap DecisionE7 6c **7
35ShadowlandsMS 17
36Jiggery Not PokeryHVS 5b 2
37Curving CracksVS 5a *158
38Gibbon's WallHS 4c 52
39High StreetE3 5c **18
40Curving CornerHVS 5b 18
41Letter Box CrackHS 4b 72
42Peg Wallf6B 6b 34
43Peg CrackHVS 5a *254
44Corner And ScoopHS 4a 16
45Quatre BrasE1 5b *2
46The Maid of WakefieldE4 6b *1
47GuillotineE6 6b *24
48Big BudE6 6c 1
49Unexpected JourneyE6 6b * 
50Thompson's CrackVS 4c **13
51Into The Great Wide OpenE4 5c 2
52Propeller WallE4 5c 14
53TurbopropE5 6b 2
54Old CrackVS 4b *322
55S CrackVS 4c ***759
56Fairy Wall (S Crack Start)HVS 5a **13
57Fairy WallE2 5c 55
58Fairy StepsHVD *547
59Fairy Steps (direct start)MS *112
60V ChimneyVS 5a 23
61Cherry Valley RibHVS 5a *111
62Josephine Super DirectVS 4b **352
63Josephine DirectHS 4b *155
64Little JohnE1 5b 32
65Short CircuitE2 5c *76
66HipgnosisE3 6b 1
67JosephineHS 4b **372
68The Girdle TraverseVS 4c **4
69NapoleonVS 4c *258
70BlucherVS 4c *300
71Tufted CrackE1 5c **308
72WaterlooE2 6a 4
73WalewskaVS 4c ***602
74Walewska VariationVS 5a **20
75Josephine TraverseHS 4b *30
76Warriors of the WastelandE6 6b  
77Not Tonight JosephineE3 6a 3
78Optimus PrimeE5 6b 1
79Botterill's CrackHVS 5a *50
80Flake CrackHS 4a *352
81Flake Crack DirectE2 6a 15
82UnknownHVD 4
 CENTRAL AREA  
84Old SpiceE2 5b *42
85LadybirdHVD *119
86Eastern NightMS 19
87NightshadeHS 4b *27
88Dead Of NightHVS 5a 5
89Evening WallVS 4c *22
90Cold ChiselHS 4b 21
91ChisellerS 4a *261
92GazS 4b 20
 THE COW  
94Cow CrackVD *85
95Cow FlapVS 5a 6
96Cow RibHVS 5a **18
97A ClimbS 4b ***278
98A Climb Alternative FinishHVS 5b *7
99FerdinandHS 4a **52
100Ferdinand Hand TraverseVS 4c 17
101Voyage To The Outer LimitsE6 6b 1
102Desperate DanE6 6b **11
103Cow UdderE1 5a *103
104Mad DogsE3 5c *6
105The Black and White DaysE5 6b * 
106Gerty BerwickE9 7b *** 
107The Lizard KingE9 7a **1
108The New StatesmanE8 7a ***6
109Milky WayE6 6b ***10
110Mars BarE6 6c  
111GalaxyE6 6b *1
112OutspanE6 6c  
113The Marine Who Slept InE5 6a *1
114Fast ForwardE6 6c **1
115Hand JiveE2 5c *3
116The SentinelVD 23
 THE CALF  
118The Early Starterf6B 6a *3
119The Chipped Steps.M *79
 BOWLING FORRE BOULDERS - (WESTERN BUTTRESSES)  
121In A PickleE6 6b 1
122Captain B.O.'s Kiss Of DeathE3 6b  
123Butch CrackHVS 5b 1
124Cassidy's CrawlVS 5a *1
125Lost BootsVS 4c *38
126PatienceHVS 5b *20
127Waiting RoomE2 6a 6
128Little HoleE2 6a  
129Big HoleE1 5c 11
130Doing the BusinessE3 6b * 
131Green ChimneyHVS 5a 2
132First AreteE3 6b 9
133Three MantelsS 6
134Second AreteVD 17
 FAR WESTERN BUTTRESS  
136Olicana CrackVS 5b 4
137Romans RibE5 6c  
138CarrieE3 6a  
 FORGOTTEN BUTTRESS  
140Forgotten ButtressS 4a 9
141Double CrackVD 11
142Mantelshelf AreteS 4a *8
 BOULDERING  
 CD AREA 1 - TWO LITTLE FINS  
145CD 1 - Problem 1V0 5a 2
146CD 1 - Problem 4V0 5a 1
147CD 1 - Problem 7VB 4b 2
 CD AREA 2 - TC AREA 1 - BALD PATE  
149CD 2 - Problem 5V2 5c 1
 CD AREA 3 - SQUARE FACE  
151CD 3 - Problem 3V3 6a 1
152CD 3 - Problem 4V0 5b 4
153CD 3 - Problem 5V3 6a 1
154CD 3 - Problem 6V0- 5a 4
155CD 3 - Problem 7VB 4a 3
156NailbiteVB 2
157CD 3 - Problem 9V0 5b 2
158CD 3 - Problem 10V0- 5a 1
159CD 3 - Problem 11VB 4c 1
 SQUARE FACE ELIMINATES  
161Problem 1 - Square Face EliminatesV1 5b 3
162Problem 5 - Square Face EliminatesV1 5c 2
 CD AREA 4 - LETTERBOX CRACK  
164Peg Wall EliminateV6 6b 1
 CD AREA 5 - TC AREA 9 B - SHORT CIRCUIT  
166Ground Crewf4+ 1
167Other Ranksf5+ 1
168Other Ranks Eliminate If6A *1
169Other Ranks Eliminate IIf6A *1
170S Crack to Fairy Steps TraverseV2 5c 6
171Little John Directf6C 6b *8
172Short Circuitf6A 35
 CD AREA 6 - TC AREA 9B - EARWIG RIB  
174Spider Wallf5+ 6a 37
175Earwig Ribf6A 6b *33
176Earwig Rib SDf7A+ *6
 CD AREA 7 - TC AREA 2 & 3C - THE CINDY CRAWFORD WORKOUT  
178CD 7 - Problem 11f2+ 2
179Introductory Slabf2 *2
180CD 7 - Problem 12f6B 6b 1
181Biterf6B 6b 1
182CD 7 - Problem 15f4+ 8
183Slab Directf6C 3
184Flake Indirectf6B 4
185Gully Wallf6B+ *3
 CD AREA 8 - TC AREA 3 A & B - BABY SPICE  
187CD 8 - Problem 1f4  
188Baby Spicef7A+ *12
189Ron's Traversef7A *13
190CD 8 - Problem 13VB 4a 6
191Duskyf4 1
 CD AREA 9 - LEFT SIDE OF THE COW  
193CD 9 - Problem 8VB 5b 1
194CD 9 - Problem 9V3 6a *1
195Slopersf5+ 1
196CD 9 - Problem 13V2 6a 1
 CD AREA 10 - TC AREA 4 - THE CALF  
198Yorkshire Grit - Problem 4 - The CalfV8 6c *3
199Bonnington's Book Problemf5 5b **10
200Car Park Crackf5+ 5c **36
201Car Park Wall Eliminatef7A+ 1
202Super Setf7C+ *7
203The Hiestf7A+  
204Facet Wallf6C 6b *7
205Under the Stairsf5 5b 16
206CD 10 - Problem 19V7 6c 3
207The Ringf5+ 5c *18
208The Ring Eliminatef6A 3
209Ringpiecef7C **48
210Late Feverf7B+  
211CD 10 - Problem 22V0 5a 2
212Pebble Groovef5 5b ***41
 THE BACK OF THE CALF (TC AREA 4B)  
214Calf Dynof5 5b **80
215The Easy WayV1 5c **4
216Three More Repsf7B+ *3
217The Mid-Height Traversef7B+ ***4
218Piccachu Challengef7C+ *1
219Almost Pleasantf6C+ **19
220TC Area 4b Problem 5f7B 1
221Bernie The Boltf7C **4
222The PinchV8 **1
223Al's ProblemV9 6c  
224Back of the Calf - Problem 15V6 *1
225Back of the Calf - Problem 16V5 6b *4
226Back of The Calf - Problem 17V6 6b 3
227Back of the Calf - Problem 18f7C ** 
228Back of the Calf - Problem 19V6 6b 1
229Back of the Calf - Problem 26V8 1
230Cindy Crawfordf7B+ ***2
231Gnomef6B 6a *18
 CD AREA 11 - THE SENTINEL  
233CD 11 - Problem 2V0- 4a 1
234CD 11 - Problem 8V3 6a 1
235CD 11 - Problem 9V0 5a 1
236CD 11 - Problem 10V0 5a+ 1
237CD 11 - Problem 11V0 5a+ 1
238CD 11 - Problem 12VB 5a 1
239CD 11 - Problem 13VB 4c 1
 CD AREA 12 - TC AREA 5 - IAN'S ROOF (BOWLING FORRE BOULDERS)  
241Ian's Rooff7B+  
242CD 12 - Problem 1VB 4a 1
243CD 12 - Problem 3V2 5c 1
244CD 12 - Problem 4VB 5a 1
245CD 12 - Problem 5VB 5a 1
246CD 12 - Problem 6VB 4a 1
247CD 12 - Problem 8VB 4b 1
248CD 12 - Problem 15V4 6a+ 1
249CD 12 - Problem 18V0 5b 1
250CD 12 - Problem 20VB 4b 1
 YORKSHIRE GRIT BOULDER  
252CD 12 - Problem 21V1 5b 1
253Arnf6A+ 1
254Chef Recommendsf7A *1
255Boudicaf7A+ **4
256CD 12 - Problem 23V2 5c 1
257CD 12 - Problem 24V1 5b+ 1
 CD AREA 13 - TC AREA 6 - LOST BOOTS  
259CD 13 - Problem 1VB 4b 4
260CD 13 - Problem 2VB 4a 4
261CD 13 - Problem 3VB 4b 3
262CD 13 - Problem 4VB 4b 5
263CD 13 - Problem 9V4 6b *4
264Lost Boysf6C+ 1
265Eliminate Traverse f7B 1
266Patiencef5 5
267CD 13 - Problem 12V0 5a+ 4
268CD 13 - Problem 13V4 6b 5
269First Things Firstf7A+ ***6
270First Aretef7A+ *4
271I Am Curious Yellowf7C+ ***4
 CD AREA 14 - UNDER LOST BOOTS  
273Slab Nosef4+ 2
274Slab Travf6B+ 3
275Slab Centref5+ 2
276Slab Rightf4 4
277CD 14 - Problem 5VB 4a 3
278CD 14 - Problem 5aV1 5a/b 2
279Gully Traversef6A+ *2
 CD AREA 15 - TC AREA 7 - OLICANA BUTTRESS  
281Olicana Aretef7A 14
282Agricolaf6C 1
283The Easy Crewf5 1
284Spartacusf6C *2
285Constantinef6C 1
286Chariots of Firef6C 1
287Chariots Of Fire Eliminatef7B+ *2
 FORGOTTEN BUTTRESS  
289Triceratopsf4 *2
 UNCONFIRMED CLIMBS  
291Little Cow VD 1
292Tramline MVS 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer peteJ23

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I love this place, its got it all. It is windy and cold and close to the car park and everything!
hop360 - 15/Jul/08
Been a few times, but today was great. Midweek, no crowds, warm weather, couple of other climbers, Walewska, Peg Crack, Blucher, Josephine Superdirect, Letterbox Crack all led. A great place for a quick fix of climbing.
Crofty - 24/Jun/08
Sorry what I meant to say,is it is the best crag in the world!.When you are bored with Ilkley you are bored with life!.
Huw - 05/Dec/05
Probably the best crag in the world.
Huw - 02/Nov/05
The bouldering on the back of the calf is very good in my opinion. Very enjoyable if you like climbing on crimps/ pinches/ undercuts on overhanging terrain. A bit of polish, but nothing compared to places like almscliffe... and the problems are mainly eliminates, so a guide is kinda useful. Lots of people walking around the place, but its nothing to cry about, most of them arent climbers and hence wont be top-roping anyway :). (Find something else to whine about :) )
Scott - 21/Aug/05
I'd rather have a few beginners on a crag than a whingeing twat with a made-up name like 'salamanda' !
matt - 24/Jun/05
Some excellent climbing spoiled by hordes of day trippers hence noise, and loads of top-roping beginner parties hence polish. The sight of hundreds of pairs of trainers scuppering helplessly across crucial small holds will make you cringe.
Salamanda - 25/Jul/04
Polished, but good climbing to be had
mick whiteoak - 31/May/04
If u want to get to grips with grit there are few better places than Ilkley. If ur doing ur first lead or E7 there is something there for u and one of the best walls of VS climbs anywhere. S Crack and Walewska are worth the trip alone - just hope u find somewhere to park when the weather is good
howard - 14/Mar/02