Climbs 270
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces N

Tim on Cow Udder (E1 5a) at Ilkley, Yorkshire © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Notable for New Statesman (E8 7a) which takes the compelling arete, but if you're not feeling up to that there are plenty of routes to entertain. Wellington Crack (E4 5c) is fun too.

Bouldering

CD = Cameron Duff

TC = Total Climbing

Approach notes

Car Park 100m from the rocks. Bus and train to Ilkley approx. 3 km away - allow 40 min for the walk. Get off at Ben Rhydding for a shorter walk to the crag - 15 mins if you're a quick walker - up the obvious path through the small wood.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
I love this place, its got it all. It is windy and cold and close to the car park and everything!
hop360 - 15/Jul/08
Been a few times, but today was great. Midweek, no crowds, warm weather, couple of other climbers, Walewska, Peg Crack, Blucher, Josephine Superdirect, Letterbox Crack all led. A great place for a quick fix of climbing.
Crofty - 24/Jun/08
Sorry what I meant to say,is it is the best crag in the world!.When you are bored with Ilkley you are bored with life!.
Huw - 05/Dec/05
Probably the best crag in the world.
Huw - 02/Nov/05
The bouldering on the back of the calf is very good in my opinion. Very enjoyable if you like climbing on crimps/ pinches/ undercuts on overhanging terrain. A bit of polish, but nothing compared to places like almscliffe... and the problems are mainly eliminates, so a guide is kinda useful. Lots of people walking around the place, but its nothing to cry about, most of them arent climbers and hence wont be top-roping anyway :). (Find something else to whine about :) )
Scott - 21/Aug/05
I'd rather have a few beginners on a crag than a whingeing twat with a made-up name like 'salamanda' !
matt - 24/Jun/05
Some excellent climbing spoiled by hordes of day trippers hence noise, and loads of top-roping beginner parties hence polish. The sight of hundreds of pairs of trainers scuppering helplessly across crucial small holds will make you cringe.
Salamanda - 25/Jul/04
Polished, but good climbing to be had
mick whiteoak - 31/May/04
If u want to get to grips with grit there are few better places than Ilkley. If ur doing ur first lead or E7 there is something there for u and one of the best walls of VS climbs anywhere. S Crack and Walewska are worth the trip alone - just hope u find somewhere to park when the weather is good
howard - 14/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Doris Buttress 
2Vital Spark
-
S 14
3Sinister CracksVD 116
4Sinister RibE3 5b *64
5BlackballE3 5c *25
6DorisS 3c **204
7Bald PateE1 5a *25
8Doris Direct
-
E4 7a **1
9Bald Pate Super DirectE6 6c * 
10Bald Pate Direct StartE2 5b **6
11DeathwatchE7 6b *27
12Little Kaiser
-
HS 4b 16
13Grand as OwtE3 6a 1
14Where Blue Tits Dare
-
E4 6b  
15SerendipityE2 5b *18
16Piton WallHVS 5a **61
17Transparent WallHVS 5a **137
18Sticky FingersE2 5c *38
19Magic Pie
-
HS 4b 6
20Desperate Dredd (Left Slab Variation)E3 5c  
21Desperate DreddE4 6a 7
 The Quarry 
23Highfield CornerHVS 5a 18
24NailbiteVD *360
25Central WallE1 5b 14
26Central Rib
-
HVS 5a 6
27Sand ChimneyVD *74
28Wellington Chimney
-
D *28
29Demolition DerbyHS 4a 9
30Overhanging Blocks
-
HVS 5a 3
31The Stomach Traverse
-
HS 4a 7
32Wellington CrackE4 5c ***149
33LoadedE8 7a *1
34Snap DecisionE7 6c **9
35Shadowlands
-
MS 20
36Jiggery Not PokeryHVS 5b 3
37Curving CracksVS 5a *193
38Gibbon's WallHS 4c 58
39High StreetE3 5c **20
40Curving CornerHVS 5b 21
41Letter Box Crack
-
HS 4b 79
42Peg Wallf6B 6b 38
43Peg CrackHVS 5a *283
44Corner And Scoop
-
HS 4a 18
45Quatre BrasE1 5b *2
46The Maid of WakefieldE4 6b *1
47GuillotineE6 6b *29
48Big BudE6 6c 1
49Unexpected Journey
-
E6 6b * 
50Thompson's CrackVS 4c **14
51Into The Great Wide OpenE4 5c 2
52Propeller WallE4 5c 16
53TurbopropE5 6b 2
54Old CrackVS 4b *357
55S CrackVS 4c ***885
56Fairy Wall (S Crack Start)HVS 5a **13
57Fairy WallE2 5c 62
58Fairy StepsHVD *607
59Fairy Steps (direct start)
-
MS *126
60V ChimneyVS 5a 26
61Cherry Valley RibHVS 5a *133
62Josephine Super DirectVS 4b **405
63Josephine DirectHS 4b *165
64Little JohnE1 5b 39
65Short CircuitE2 5c *90
66Hipgnosis
-
E3 6b 1
67JosephineHS 4b **440
68The Girdle TraverseVS 4c **4
69NapoleonVS 4c *296
70BlucherVS 4c *343
71Tufted CrackE1 5c **390
72Waterloo
-
E2 6a 4
73WalewskaVS 4c ***723
74Walewska Variation
-
VS 5a **22
75Josephine Traverse
-
HS 4b *34
76Warriors of the Wasteland
-
E6 6b  
77Not Tonight Josephine
-
E3 6a 3
78Optimus PrimeE5 6b 1
79Botterill's CrackHVS 5a *66
80Flake CrackHS 4a *394
81Flake Crack Direct
-
E2 6a 20
82UnknownHVD 5
 Central Area 
84Old SpiceE2 5b *48
85LadybirdHVD *134
86Eastern Night
-
MS 22
87Nightshade
-
HS 4b *30
88Dead Of Night
-
HVS 5a 5
89Evening Wall
-
VS 4c *28
90Cold ChiselHS 4b 27
91ChisellerS 4a *298
92GazS 4b 22
 The Cow 
94Cow CrackVD *100
95Cow FlapVS 5a 6
96Cow RibHVS 5a **26
97A ClimbS 4b ***335
98A Climb Alternative Finish
-
HVS 5b *7
99FerdinandHS 4a **64
100Ferdinand Hand Traverse
-
VS 4c 18
101Voyage To The Outer Limits
-
E6 6b 1
102Desperate DanE6 6b **12
103Cow UdderE1 5a *124
104Mad Dogs
-
E3 5c *6
105The Black and White Days
-
E5 6b * 
106Gerty BerwickE9 7b *** 
107The Lizard KingE9 7a **1
108The New StatesmanE8 7a ***6
109Milky WayE6 6b ***11
110Mars Bar
-
E6 6c  
111Galaxy
-
E6 6b *1
112Outspan
-
E6 6c  
113The Marine Who Slept InE5 6a *2
114Fast ForwardE6 6c **1
115Hand JiveE2 5c *3
116The Sentinel
-
VD 23
 The Calf 
118The Early Starterf6B 6a *4
119The Chipped Steps.M *94
 Bowling Forre Boulders - (Western Buttresses) 
121In A Pickle
-
E6 6b 1
122Captain B.O.'s Kiss Of Death
-
E3 6b  
123Butch Crack
-
HVS 5b 1
124Cassidy's Crawl
-
VS 5a *1
125Lost Boots
-
VS 4c *44
126Patience
-
HVS 5b *22
127Waiting Room
-
E2 6a 7
128Little Hole
-
E2 6a  
129Big HoleE1 5c 13
130Doing the Business
-
E3 6b * 
131Green Chimney
-
HVS 5a 2
132First Arete
-
E3 6b 9
133Three MantelsS 6
134Second Arete
-
VD 17
 Far Western Buttress 
136Olicana Crack
-
VS 5b 4
137Romans Rib
-
E5 6c  
138Carrie
-
E3 6a  
 Forgotten Buttress 
140Forgotten Buttress
-
S 4a 10
141Double Crack
-
VD 12
142Mantelshelf Arete
-
S 4a *9
 Bouldering 
 CD Area 1 - Two Little Fins 
145CD 1 - Problem 1V0 2
146CD 1 - Problem 4V0 1
147CD 1 - Problem 7VB 2
 CD Area 2 - TC Area 1 - Bald Pate 
149CD 2 - Problem 5V2 1
 CD Area 3 - Square Face 
151CD 3 - Problem 3V3 1
152CD 3 - Problem 4V0 4
153CD 3 - Problem 5V3 1
154CD 3 - Problem 6V0- 4
155CD 3 - Problem 7VB 3
156Nailbite
-
VB 5
157CD 3 - Problem 9V0 2
158CD 3 - Problem 10V0- 1
159CD 3 - Problem 11VB 1
 Square Face Eliminates 
161Problem 1 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 3
162Problem 5 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 2
 CD Area 4 - Letterbox Crack 
164Peg Wall EliminateV6 1
 CD Area 5 - TC Area 9 b - Short Circuit 
166Ground Crewf4+ 1
167Other Ranksf5+ 1
168Other Ranks Eliminate If6A *1
169Other Ranks Eliminate IIf6A *1
170S Crack to Fairy Steps TraverseV2 8
171S Crack Slapf6C+ 2
172Little John Directf6C 6b *11
173Short Circuitf6A 40
 CD Area 6 - TC Area 9b - Earwig Rib 
175Spider Wallf5+ 6a 45
176Earwig Ribf6A 6b *37
177Earwig Rib SD
-
f7A+ *7
 CD Area 7 - TC Area 2 & 3c - The Cindy Crawford Workout 
179CD 7 - Problem 11f2+ 2
180Introductory Slabf2 *2
181First Slab
-
f4+ 1
182Second Slab
-
f4+ 2
183Slab Layback
-
f4+ 1
184CD 7 - Problem 12f6B 1
185Biterf6B 1
186CD 7 - Problem 15f4+ 9
187Slab Directf6C 5
188Flake Indirectf6B 4
189Gully Wallf6B+ *5
 CD Area 8 - Tc Area 3 a & b - Baby Spice 
191CD 8 - Problem 1f4 1
192Baby Spicef7A+ *14
193Ron's Traversef7A *19
194CD 8 - Problem 13VB 9
195Duskyf4 4
 CD Area 9 - Left Side of The Cow 
197CD 9 - Problem 8VB 1
198CD 9 - Problem 9V3 *1
199Slopersf5+ 1
200CD 9 - Problem 13V2 1
 CD Area 10 - TC Area 4 - The Calf 
202Yorkshire Grit - Problem 4 - The CalfV8 *3
203Bonnington's Book Problemf5 5b **18
204Car Park Crackf5+ 5c **47
205Car Park Wall Eliminatef7A+ 1
206Super Setf7C+ *7
207The Hiestf7A+  
208Facet Wallf6C 6b *10
209The Easy WayV1 **9
210Calf Arete
-
f2 4
211Under the Stairsf5 5b 16
212CD 10 - Problem 19V7 2
213The Ringf5+ 5c *24
214The Ring Eliminatef6A 4
215Ringpiecef7C **51
216Late Feverf7B+  
217CD 10 - Problem 22
-
V0 2
218Pebble Groovef5 5b ***51
 The Back of The Calf (TC Area 4b) 
220Calf Dynof5 5b **95
221Three More Repsf7B+ *3
222The Mid-Height Traversef7B+ ***4
223Piccachu Challenge
-
f7C+ *1
224Almost Pleasant
-
f6C+ **23
225TC Area 4b Problem 5f7B 3
226Bernie The Boltf7C **4
227The PinchV8 **1
228Al's ProblemV9  
229Back of the Calf - Problem 15
-
V6 *1
230Back of the Calf - Problem 16
-
V5 *4
231Back of The Calf - Problem 17
-
V6 3
232Back of the Calf - Problem 18f7C ** 
233Back of the Calf - Problem 19V6 2
234Back of the Calf - Problem 26V8 1
235Cindy Crawfordf7B+ ***2
236Gnomef6B 6a *25
 CD Area 11 - The Sentinel 
238CD 11 - Problem 2V0- 1
239CD 11 - Problem 8V3 1
240CD 11 - Problem 9V0 1
241CD 11 - Problem 10V0 1
242CD 11 - Problem 11V0 1
243CD 11 - Problem 12VB 1
244CD 11 - Problem 13VB 1
 CD Area 12 - TC Area 5 - Ian's Roof (Bowling Forre Boulders) 
246Ian's Rooff7B+  
247CD 12 - Problem 1VB 1
248CD 12 - Problem 3V2 1
249CD 12 - Problem 4VB 1
250CD 12 - Problem 5VB 1
251CD 12 - Problem 6VB 1
252CD 12 - Problem 8VB 1
253CD 12 - Problem 15V4 1
254CD 12 - Problem 18V0 1
255CD 12 - Problem 20VB 1
 Yorkshire Grit Boulder 
257CD 12 - Problem 21V1 2
258Robin
-
f6C 1
259Arnf6A+ 1
260Chef Recommendsf7A *2
261CD 12 - Problem 23V2 2
262CD 12 - Problem 24V1 2
 CD Area 13 - TC Area 6 - Lost Boots 
264CD 13 - Problem 1VB 5
265CD 13 - Problem 2VB 5
266CD 13 - Problem 3VB 4
267CD 13 - Problem 4VB 6
268CD 13 - Problem 9V4 *4
269Lost Boys
-
f6C+ 1
270Eliminate Traversef7B 1
271Patiencef5 8
272CD 13 - Problem 12
-
V0 5
273CD 13 - Problem 13V4 6
274First Things Firstf7A+ ***7
275First Arete
-
f7A+ *7
276I Am Curious Yellow
-
f7C+ ***4
 CD Area 14 - Under Lost Boots 
278Slab Left Wallf4+ 1
279Slab Nose
-
f4+ 5
280Slab Travf6B+ 5
281Slab Centref5+ 3
282Slab Right
-
f4 7
283CD 14 - Problem 5
-
VB 4
284CD 14 - Problem 5aV1 3
285Gully Traversef6A+ *6
 CD Area 15 - TC Area 7 - Olicana Buttress 
287Olicana Aretef7A 25
288Agricola
-
f6C 3
289The Easy Crew
-
f5 1
290Spartacus
-
f6C *5
291Constantine
-
f6C 1
292Boudiccaf7A+ 6
293Chariots of Firef6C 2
294Chariots Of Fire Eliminatef7B+ *4
 Forgotten Buttress 
296Triceratopsf4 *2
 Unconfirmed Climbs 
298Little Cow
-
VD 1
299TramlineMVS 4b 1

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