Rockfax Description
10m. Traverse up the flake then step up to the break. Traverse this out to the arete and finish up this. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
VS 4b in the YMC Grit guide
Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
C Witter | 28 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: I almost pointed my partner at this, who is a VS leader. Glad I didn't, because even at VS this is a very bold route: awkward gear in a pocket that needs a bit of concentration to make reliable, then run it out in serious groundfall territory... One more obvious placement just before the top if you have the relevant cam. For me, this is very steady ground but I was having a bad day and so had to take a deep breath when my "pleasant flowy route", undertaken to relax, revealed itself to be a near-solo. For many VS leaders this would be miserable and dangerous. HS grading is irresponsible. Even at VS, guidebook should warn that it is bold in the text. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I almost pointed my partner at this, who is a VS leader. Glad I didn't, because even at VS this is a very bold route: awkward gear in a pocket that needs a bit of concentration to make reliable, then run it out in serious groundfall territory... One more obvious placement just before the top if you have the relevant cam. For me, this is very steady ground but I was having a bad day and so had to take a deep breath when my "pleasant flowy route", undertaken to relax, revealed itself to be a near-solo. For many VS leaders this would be miserable and dangerous. HS grading is irresponsible. Even at VS, guidebook should warn that it is bold in the text. |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Raven's Scar)