25m. The excellent route up the centre of the wall on perfectly adequate gear. Start at the base of a very slight groove, move up to a leftward diagonal crack and follow this back to big holds and the aformentioned groove. Climb direct on satisfyingly large holds to a short, wide crack and scamper out left into a large steepening groove. Finish up this. french 6c.

johnny dawes

Ticklists: Top Five Pass E4's, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

soph 08/Aug Lead O/S

No chalk so proper onsight- really good, pumpy for me!

with Tony Stone
Ed Booth 16/Jul 2nd rpt
Adam Booth 16/Jul Lead O/S

Easy until just below the top crack, where I stupidly got myself pumped trying get a decent runner. Having said that, the gear is good; I didn't find it especially bold, like the description says.

dominic lee 16/May Lead
Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
bigie bob 09/Apr Lead O/S
Cailean Harker 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Mike Goldthorp
mynyddresident 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

First E5 os. Forgot the cam I required, oops.

with liam
wolf.leeb 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Really good and soft. :) Just climb it quick.

with nic
Rachel Slater 05/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Hung on for about 2 hours before I decided I was two psyched out to do it and lowered off.

Ed morris 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

6c, adequate gear. Brilliant

redjerry 28/Jul/14 Lead
with Ed Morris
Rich Kirby 24/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Justin T 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Soft at E5 but I'll take the tick! Climbs superbly.

with Nick B
shed_hed 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic route! First E5 maybe?! Sustained quality and difficulty all the way up! Only just got to the top after getting ridiculously pumped and nearly falling off in a couple of places but managed to hang on and recover enough. Probably should have warmed up on something else first and didn't realise this is high in the grade/E5 in some places. Got scared above gear (but I don't think it was bold) and I'm pretty sure I managed to find every placement, and then some - probably why I got so pumped. Pretty happy to get up this seeing as I've not led anything hard for a while.

with Gwen Lancashire
jamesturnbull 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with will sim
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead RP
Tom Livingstone 14/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Jack Lawledge
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
misterb ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with justin
nathanlee 21/May/14 Lead O/S

Didn't have the right cam for the top and missed gear below. Felt very sketch!

with Wiz, Tom Livingstone, Oli Grounsell
Tom Livingstone 21/May/14 Lead β
Rob Pitt 17/May/14 Lead rpt
with Nick B
AJM 22/Jul/13 2nd dog

1 rest. Missed a foothold.

Mike Goldthorp 22/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Quality route, felt steady, expecting it to be pumpy (says in the guide), maybe pumpy for an E4 climber, but steady for E5 - big holds most of the way. Apparently I've done this before but have no memory atall of it :-/ Ah well

with Andy
willoates 15/Jul/13 -

First successful E5 since falling off ghost train. good climbing on good holds. nice.

with John Oooooore
redjerry 12/Jul/13 TR O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/13 TR
Hidden 08/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Howard Lawledge ?/Jul/13 -
with Malc
malx ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
tim newton 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
steve_yo 09/Jun/13 Lead

2nd go ground up

with sam ring
LRob ??/2013 Lead O/S
atapper21 ??/2013 Lead

cocked it up, got it next go ground up, great climbing

Hidden 28/May/12 Lead
Ewan Russell 28/May/12 2nd O/S
with Connor
Owain Llewelyn 04/Aug/11 Lead

Crux was greasy, rested on cam. Cracking route.

with Andy, Gareth E
centurion05 ?/Aug/11 Lead dog

top crack was wet, got the cam in then couldn't finish without coming off. nice route, could've done with a warm up before though.

with Rimon Than
Luke Brooks 06/Jun/11 2nd
with Liam
Liam FLeming 06/Jun/11 -
with luke brooks
Steve Crowe 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with KM
Ed Booth 04/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ben Alsford
phil64 02/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
barni 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Toni st
HamishD 04/Sep/10 Lead

Rest on gear at half height.

with Wil Treasure
drysori 04/Sep/10 2nd
with hamdunn
ewen 22/Jun/10 2nd
with neil stabbs
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd rpt
nige 20/Jun/10 Lead
with ash
dan gibson 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with nick bullock
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/10 2nd O/S
phil64 ?/Jun/10 Lead
with tim hunter
ksjs 24/May/10 Lead O/S

slightly bold off the ground but fine. bit run out to gain final crack but youre above good gear. generally, thought gear was a bit spaced but good. brilliant sport-style trad that just beats What a Difference... for quality, pumpy. E4 6a or Fr 6b+/c

with pete
Mike Goldthorp 22/May/10 Lead O/S

Very much enjoyed, pretty pumpy but not excessively so. Guidebook said it was a bit runout but didnt seem to be too bad

with George Ulrich
Alex Mason 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S

First trad route for a while. ended up down climbing to the deck from the last 2/3 moves because i missed the big cam. E4 5c except the first move, but top end. All jugs. 6c.

Luke Brooks 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
gregoritos 09/Aug/09 Lead

Did all the hard climbing then slipped on the easy groove to fall headfirst back onto the face - whoops!(E4).

with james
Stig 08/Aug/09 2nd dog

Pumped out out at crux, hesitated, disappointing. 1 rest.

with Greg
Toby Dunn 23/Jun/09 Lead
with Andy Reeve
Rob Pitt 16/Jun/09 Lead dnf
with steveE9
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden ?/May/09 2nd dog
Boy ?/Apr/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Obi-Wan is lost... ??/2008 2nd
Ram MkiV 10/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with reeve
IOAN D 28/May/07 Lead O/S
with Mills
Hidden ??/2006 2nd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 25/Jun/05 Lead rpt
with Ed Brown
Rich Kirby 19/Jun/05 Lead O/S

Top day......a few years since climbing E5 well...then 2 in a day.

with Ash
Hidden ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
sadams 05/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Andy Bowie
Hidden 09/Aug/97 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with April
switch ??/1996 Lead O/S

E4 5c. Great climbing.

innes ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Craig
Cowflinger ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/88 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, ashtond6, AlexD, LJC, Neil, Adam Booth, jacob shieldhouse hadley, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, dswansonlow, Hidden, Hidden, richardr, samrad, mattyork2, SMc
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