Rimsky Korsakov*** E5 6a
[Here or watching England get trounced........., 2 kb]25m.

Rockfax Description
One of the great E5s of the Pass. It requires a steady approach and a good eye for gear to make it safe - a large cam is handy. Start by a low diagonal crack in the centre of the wall. Move up over this and step up to the higher leftwards-slanting crack. Follow the crack left to a faint groove and a series of leaning flake/cracks. Move more urgently up these to reach a bold wall and a hand-jamming crack above. Gain the crack with relief if you can jam and continue on to the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
The excellent route up the centre of the wall on perfectly adequate gear. Start at the base of a very slight groove, move up to a leftward diagonal crack and follow this back to big holds and the aformentioned groove. Climb direct on satisfyingly large holds to a short, wide crack and scamper out left into a large steepening groove. Finish up this. french 6c.

johnny dawes

Ticklists: Top Five Pass E4's, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Photo: Here or watching England get trounced......... © Rich Kirby
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This climb is in 84 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

No chalk so proper onsight- really good, pumpy for me!
soph - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/15 with Tony Stone

Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 16/Jul/15 with Adam Booth

Easy until just below the top crack, where I stupidly got myself pumped trying get a decent runner. Having said that, the gear is good; I didn't find it especially bold, like the description says.
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/15 with Ed Booth

dominic lee - Lead - 16/May/15 with nathan lee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/15

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/15

Cailean Harker - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/14 with Mike Goldthorp

First E5 os. Forgot the cam I required, oops.
mynyddresident - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/14 with liam

Really good and soft. :) Just climb it quick.
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/14 with nic

Hung on for about 2 hours before I decided I was two psyched out to do it and lowered off.
Rachel Slater - Lead dnf - 05/Sep/14 with Tim Newton

6c, adequate gear. Brilliant
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with James Taylor

redjerry - Lead - 28/Jul/14 with Ed Morris

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 24/Jul/14 with Nick Bullock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

Soft at E5 but I'll take the tick! Climbs superbly.
Justin T - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/14 with Nick B

Fantastic route! First E5 maybe?! Sustained quality and difficulty all the way up! Only just got to the top after getting ridiculously pumped and nearly falling off in a couple of places but managed to hang on and recover enough. Probably should have warmed up on something else first and didn't realise this is high in the grade/E5 in some places. Got scared above gear (but I don't think it was bold) and I'm pretty sure I managed to find every placement, and then some - probably why I got so pumped. Pretty happy to get up this seeing as I've not led anything hard for a while.
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Gwen Lancashire

jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14 with will sim

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Jun/14

Tom Livingstone - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/14 with Jack Lawledge

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14

misterb - 2nd O/S - Jun/14 with justin

Didn't have the right cam for the top and missed gear below. Felt very sketch!
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 21/May/14 with Wiz, Tom Livingstone, Oli Grounsell

Tom Livingstone - Lead β - 21/May/14 with Nathan Lee

Rob Pitt - Lead rpt - 17/May/14 with Nick B

1 rest. Missed a foothold.
AJM - 2nd dog - 22/Jul/13 with Mike Goldthorp

Quality route, felt steady, expecting it to be pumpy (says in the guide), maybe pumpy for an E4 climber, but steady for E5 - big holds most of the way. Apparently I've done this before but have no memory atall of it :-/ Ah well
Mike Goldthorp - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/13 with Andy

First successful E5 since falling off ghost train. good climbing on good holds. nice.
willoates - 15/Jul/13 with John Oooooore

redjerry - TR O/S - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - TR - 09/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/13

Howard Lawledge - Jul/13 with Malc

malx - Lead O/S - Jul/13

tim newton - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with brad reed

2nd go ground up
steve_yo - Lead - 09/Jun/13 with sam ring

LRob - Lead O/S - 2013

cocked it up, got it next go ground up, great climbing
atapper21 - Lead - 2013 with Alex Wheeldon

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/12

Ewan Russell - 2nd O/S - 28/May/12 with Connor

Crux was greasy, rested on cam. Cracking route.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 04/Aug/11 with Andy, Gareth E

top crack was wet, got the cam in then couldn't finish without coming off. nice route, could've done with a warm up before though.
centurion05 - Lead dog - Aug/11 with Rimon Than

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 06/Jun/11 with Liam

Liam FLeming - 06/Jun/11 with luke brooks

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11 with KM

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 04/May/11 with Ben Alsford

phil64 - Lead rpt - 02/May/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

phil64 - 2011

barni - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Toni st

Rest on gear at half height.
HamishD - Lead - 04/Sep/10 with Wil Treasure

drysori - 2nd - 04/Sep/10 with hamdunn

ewen - 2nd - 22/Jun/10 with neil stabbs

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Jun/10

nige - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with ash

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with nick bullock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/10

phil64 - Lead - Jun/10 with tim hunter

slightly bold off the ground but fine. bit run out to gain final crack but youre above good gear. generally, thought gear was a bit spaced but good. brilliant sport-style trad that just beats What a Difference... for quality, pumpy. E4 6a or Fr 6b+/c
ksjs - Lead O/S - 24/May/10 with pete

Very much enjoyed, pretty pumpy but not excessively so. Guidebook said it was a bit runout but didnt seem to be too bad
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with George Ulrich

First trad route for a while. ended up down climbing to the deck from the last 2/3 moves because i missed the big cam. E4 5c except the first move, but top end. All jugs. 6c.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/10 with Sam Hamer

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10

Did all the hard climbing then slipped on the easy groove to fall headfirst back onto the face - whoops!(E4).
gregoritos - Lead - 09/Aug/09 with james

Pumped out out at crux, hesitated, disappointing. 1 rest.
Stig - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/09 with Greg

Toby Dunn - Lead - 23/Jun/09 with Andy Reeve

Rob Pitt - Lead dnf - 16/Jun/09 with steveE9

Hidden - Lead - Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - May/09

Boy - Apr/09 with Nige Kershaw

Obi-Wan is lost... - 2nd - 2008

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/07 with reeve

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 28/May/07 with Mills

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/05 with Ed Brown

Top day......a few years since climbing E5 well...then 2 in a day.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/05 with Ash

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/02

sadams - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/98 with Andy Bowie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/97

whispering nic - Lead O/S - Apr/96 with April

E4 5c. Great climbing.
switch - Lead O/S - 1996

innes - Lead O/S - 1996 with Craig

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - Jun/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/88

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashtond6, AlexD, LJC, Neil, Adam Booth, craig naylor, jacob shieldhouse hadley, dswansonlow, richardr, samrad, mattyork2, SMc

Total votes cast 62
hard E60 of 23
E60 of 23
easy E60 of 23
hard E50 of 23
E53 of 23
easy E511 of 23
hard E49 of 23
E40 of 23
easy E40 of 23
hard 6b0 of 21
6b0 of 21
easy 6b0 of 21
hard 6a0 of 21
6a9 of 21
easy 6a11 of 21
hard 5c1 of 21
5c0 of 21
easy 5c0 of 21
3 Stars17 of 18
2 Stars0 of 18
1 Star1 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP