Rockfax Description
Varied and spectacular climbing on, for the majority of the route, big holds. Start right of the twin grooves on Banana Flake.
Climb up to a wall and small juggy ridge, then cross an easy rake - on Main Face Climb - and gain a sloping ledge at the base of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and then move right and climb steeply on jugs stepping right near the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Rough guidebook description - about 30m right of the abseil (to the right of the demo route face) go up slightly and make an awkward mantleshelf in to a right-facing corner, climb this on to the arete. Then follow this steeply to the top.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Egons Issy 03/Oct 2nd
with Mark van Rossum, Kevin Vans-Colina
Ben1983 26/Sep Lead O/S
gidmord 20/Sep Lead O/S
with Amy
Skinnybloke 18/Sep Lead

Nice climb, fell 3 times at the crux

John Brayshaw 18/Sep Lead O/S
with Gareth
Graham Booth 07/Sep Lead O/S
garywong 28/Aug Lead O/S
with Loic Menzies
Master Chief 27/Aug Lead O/S
Spearos 27/Aug 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/Aug Lead O/S
Sarah Roscoe 05/Aug Lead

first VS route.

cols1982 19/Jul Lead O/S

My first VS! Great climb though think I possibly didn't do the top bit properly - it was very green so I went around to the left.

with Christopher Duque-Smith
Matt77 09/Jul 2nd O/S
RyanOsborne 08/Jul Lead
Steve Lenartowicz 27/Jun Lead
with Clare
tim_mcd 21/Jun Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 18/Jun Lead O/S

Odd route, easy for a vs at sennen good juggyness

with Luke
lukegorman 18/Jun 2nd O/S
partz 17/Jun Lead O/S
JonnyW 17/Jun 2nd O/S
c jepps 16/Jun Lead O/S
adam.wood 11/Jun Lead O/S
with UBMC
Hidden 11/Jun Lead O/S
omaskrey 07/Jun Lead O/S
twill 07/Jun 2nd O/S
annep11 04/Jun Lead O/S

A juggy romp with some surprisingly exposed positions at the top.

alex toomey 04/Jun 2nd
with anne peale
luke glaister 30/May Lead O/S

One of the best routes we did there. I took a harder start up the twin cracks. Then moved in leftwards up the jug fest arete. Brilliant.

with dan., casey johns
Hidden 30/May 2nd
casey johns 29/May 2nd
with dan, luke glaister
Hidden 25/May 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 25/May Lead O/S

Fantastic! Fairly tough crux mantle, and the holds on the arete were huge! Easy for VS though.

Hidden 25/May 2nd dog
ColdAndWet 10/May Lead
JohnBotham 10/May 2nd
Chrismaccers ?/May Lead
petrch 06/Apr Lead O/S
with aziz abdul, Ilya Zhuravel
chris ebbutt 07/Mar Lead
Hidden 07/Mar 2nd
Sarah Welsh 07/Mar 2nd
Will Mortimer 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Julian Prieto 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Helen Kirby
Hidden 04/Sep/14 Lead rpt
oscaig 28/Aug/14 Lead O/S
kim.mulji 28/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Not sure we took all the right line, but it felt about right!

knighty 05/Aug/14 Lead O/S

In the rain at the end. Neither parner could complete which lead to an entertaining series of events...

GermanAlex 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S

relatively easy, I found it to be on a level with Demo Route and easier than Letterbox (which gets S?)

with Arno
StevieLee ?/Aug/14 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Jul/14 2nd O/S
mdjb 22/Jul/14 -
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
pebbles 17/Jul/14 AltLd
with joan
andrea83 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Hamish
Hamish777 13/Jul/14 Lead β
with Andrea
Shaw Brown 11/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/14 2nd
surf1nal-kern0w 21/Jun/14 -

first ascent - lead

kyaizawa 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jing Zhang
JRJones 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lead for Eva Herbst, two pitches.

maddy92 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
stalbot93 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
helen.baldwin 17/Jun/14 2nd
sarah hawker 16/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with bob
MinHazeldine 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
beakerburgess 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Adam Walker
joem 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jess
Hidden 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Merlin 29/May/14 Lead O/S

Fun climbing with ample pro!

with Vaughny
Lottie Thorne 26/May/14 2nd O/S

loved this- wonderful big holds with fun moves

Joemanglerocks 26/May/14 Lead
with Dave Marshall
Jack J Keogan 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Lottie Thorne
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd
Hidden 05/May/14 -
Ioana.Mischie 04/May/14 2nd O/S

Climbed it with my rucksack as it was my last climb

with Alamin
Hinchrn 02/May/14 Lead O/S
ksjs 24/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Thought this surprisingly easy for the grade (compared to things like Sabre Cut, Noah's Warning, The Mall or Great Harry for example). Enjoyable climbing on good and interesting holds with lots of gear.

Dan Lane 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Dad
Jules Lane 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Very nice varied route. 1 awkward move onto the ledge half way up, great after that.

with Will
saraguti 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Led it after seconded it. Absolutely spectacular, deserves 3 stars, felt much better than demo route as has lots of flow and many beautiful moves

with ania
benny_m 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Su
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
BarrySW19 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Lovely route - probably the best of the day after Demo.

with Spenser
spenser 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

One of the nicest routes I've ever climbed, definitely worthwhile.

with Barry
Dilwat 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Pete, Bart
penguinpete 15/Apr/14 2nd

Managed to spook myself a couple of times on this climb.

with Bart, Ian
leerybunny 08/Apr/14 Lead
with Ryan Newman
jhb0510 03/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Ana Ramos, Jasmine Berwick
jammy4536 08/Mar/14 Lead
KatOstrich 08/Mar/14 2nd
with Sam
abtibbs 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Patrick
zcsharp 08/Mar/14 2nd
with Jonny Raines
kenneM 16/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/13 2nd O/S
lucas95 08/Oct/13 2nd
surf1nal-kern0w 06/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Too wet and Greasy - Came off route onto Main face climb

Hidden 04/Sep/13 2nd
clubmanpete 24/Aug/13 Lead

Easy than I thought it was gunna be for a vs. Really very nice climbing though!

Skinnybloke 24/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/13 -
knighty 11/Aug/13 2nd
ranga 11/Aug/13 Lead
Blurgy319 09/Aug/13 2nd
with Ben Wood
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
CarolinePawley 03/Aug/13 2nd O/S
neilstubbs 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Made a mess of getting onto the sloping ledge, kind of belly flopped onto it. Lovely steep route.

with Matt Stuart
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Samuel P 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Tommy
Felix Ottey 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

End of day... Exhausted!!

Steve Lenartowicz 09/Jul/13 Lead
with Clare
Tim W 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
leohl 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
leerybunny 06/Jul/13 Lead
joeurwin 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Juggy! (apart from the step onto the ledge)

with Sam Robinson
afrosam 04/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Huw Mithan 19/Jun/13 Lead
with Nina Reinschmidt
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Solo rpt
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead
cornishmackem 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with zach lawlor
jennamsmile 06/Jun/13 TR
robinmuzette 06/Jun/13 TR O/S
with Jenna Mckeer
cf2g08 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Anushka Puri 03/Jun/13 2nd dog
Harry Thorpe 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Anushka
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead
Maywood96 01/Jun/13 2nd
RossT 01/Jun/13 2nd
with Tim Bee
Hidden 28/May/13 2nd
Skullfire 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Montecore 25/May/13 2nd O/S

Seemed very easy and well protected for a VS. Wondering if we went off route.

with Ben Simpkins
jamespilgrim 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Rob84 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Roy (Netherlands)
Rob84 23/May/13 Lead rpt
with Jeremy
Hidden 22/May/13 Lead O/S
carl_123 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
zcsharp 16/Mar/13 Lead

The ledge in the corner was soaking wet and i had to go right to avoid it, but a jugfest afterwards.

with Sam Hooper
TDSvejstrup 16/Mar/13 Lead O/S
catty_9 16/Mar/13 2nd
with Hamish, Tom Svejstrup
peterhubbard ?/Mar/13 Lead
Ed morris 16/Feb/13 2nd
with Colin
haz rudry ??/2013 AltLd
cymjt ??/2013 -
Albachoss 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S


with Simon R
jackappleby 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

might have got a bit lost

Hidden 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
manbat 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Went a bit off route halway through? Great top-out.

with Zach Lawlor
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead β
msoldn 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

more interesting and continuous than it looks

with Mari
Matt Harmon 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
tim.fairhall 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Elliott
stefie c 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Bex_M 21/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Duncan Dunbar
brew_guru 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Very nice techy middle section **

Trippinjester 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
SamStokes 06/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Leklerk ?/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

several climbs 4a to 4c

with Richard Notman
tgeh 28/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 28/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/12 2nd O/S
fall-line 28/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Laurence
Laurence Cowton 28/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Easy for VS

with Donald
Neil D 27/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Codrington, Beth Hodgett
Betha. 27/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Neil D
tcn_2002 26/Jun/12 2nd
ian d f 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Pete C
shouter 24/Jun/12 2nd
Tom Hecht 20/Jun/12 AltLd β
with Lotte Stuer
bpmclimb 06/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
RFWilkie 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah
lmacey 04/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd dog
Curly Rich 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S

possible route error at the top felt far to easy.

with GMC Anthony
Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
jakenichol 27/May/12 Lead O/S
with Martin Cathrow
John Tanner 27/May/12 2nd O/S

Fantastic rock, so much fun

gidmord 27/May/12 Lead O/S
with John Tanner
arandall 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Chris Manasseh 06/May/12 Lead
with Jonah Jones
tomshanti 05/May/12 2nd β

good fun,straight foreward bar the nose at the top(may have missed smth!)

guy757 14/Apr/12 -
Marti999 14/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Guy Buckingham
adam 24 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
krispy_fish2000 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tom
mariannekhoo 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Nick Pike
Ragingpossum 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S

My first vs

Hidden 17/Mar/12 2nd rpt
aljezurusrf08 10/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Willow
Hamish777 28/Jan/12 2nd
mark sharples 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
wojt ??/2012 Lead O/S
ewanthomson 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Shynnagh 06/Nov/11 TR
Chris.Irwin 06/Nov/11 2nd dog
JoeMortimer 05/Nov/11 Lead
Doug miller 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd
pow22 02/Oct/11 2nd
Joe_white 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Sam4242 ?/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S


with Jess
simoncov 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Redhead
gingerwolf 05/Jul/11 Lead O/S
AlistairB 27/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Lisa
LisaA 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
thomasaneurinsmith 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Not sure I did the correct finish - ended up going over right and then back left?

with Katherine Torr
Hidden 18/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 18/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dave Mason 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Darren Belfield
Adam_42 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Young Gareth
mullermn 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Nice climb

Andrew Bangs 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

I found the mantel harder than it should've been, and the airy step right off the pinnacle had me thinking for a while. Was very windy higher up - might've gone slightly off route at the upper overhang to get out of the wind. Nice climb.

Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead
ben bowry ?/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/May/11 Lead O/S
MD 29/May/11 2nd
with Misha
Nicola 29/May/11 Lead O/S
with Lee
Hidden 28/May/11 Lead O/S
simoncov 02/May/11 2nd O/S
with Rob Smart
victim of mathematics 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Great. Probably easier than Letterbox.

crossdressingrodney 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Legs 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Simon O'Hara
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Ann S 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Nice route well led by Andy in the pouring rain.

with Andy Bond
Orifice 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Stafford Dyer
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/11 2nd
SamChessell 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Keltie
tmansfield 12/Mar/11 Lead
gingerking ?/Mar/11 2nd O/S
carlgodfrey ??/2011 Lead O/S
Ed morris 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with doug
andrea83 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Good route. Really wet though.

Matt Fry 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

soaking wet, great fun.

samappears 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Thankgoodness for the jugs at the top!

with Matt Raft
Rock Lizard ?/Sep/10 Lead
Batt 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Top's fun rest is a bit lacking.

Hoyes 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Jim Malo 27/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Barry
fatbuoybazza 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with jim
Jessie Rushbrooke 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with RMc
PenJD 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
redshapedfriday ?/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Em66 14/Jun/10 2nd
with Mat
wilchivs 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/10 2nd
Rob84 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Chris James
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd
jon_gill1 31/May/10 2nd O/S
JWB 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Lovely route. I am not sure what gave me more satisfaction ....... matching the guide book description to the rock or the actual route!

Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
Legs 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Pete Randall 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Richard B
saundera ?/Apr/10 2nd
with Zaheer
Hidden ??/2010 -
Mark Kemball 13/Sep/09 Lead
with Lee Bartrop
Hidden 11/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Gareth T 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Awsome belly flop onto the sloping slab

with Ruben
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd
tdudley 13/Jun/09 Lead rpt
zard 09/Jun/09 2nd
with Katie Marshall
Katie Marshall 09/Jun/09 Lead
with Petr
Hidden 18/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden 28/Jul/08 Lead O/S
tdudley 10/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Gareth T 10/Jun/08 Lead
with tdudley
stuwelly85 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Jacky Tyrie
Hidden 28/May/08 Lead
rob_lee 22/May/08 Lead O/S
with William Strickland-Miller
chrissloan84 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Geoffers ?/May/08 2nd
with Tim
Hidden ?/Apr/08 2nd
dewrats ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Oli Boyes Chris Barr
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
kitkat78 01/Nov/07 Lead
with SteveM
SteveM 01/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Kat
gareth r 22/Sep/07 2nd rpt
with Hywel
brady 22/Sep/07 Lead
with Martin Skinner
Hidden 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
chris sm 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
kenneM ?/Aug/07 Lead
with Booby Hewitt
Hidden 15/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Ing 26/May/07 2nd
with Dave
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 28/Apr/07 2nd β

Kine lead.

with Linus, Kine D
twodada 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Rich Barnes
drysori ??/2007 -
adamscottthomas 18/Aug/06 Lead O/S

The "last route of the day"... Stu had to second it by torchlight

Stuie 18/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Adam lead the climb at dusk and i seconded in torchlight. Fantastic step out onto the nose of a large block towards the top.

with Adam Thomas
Hidden 18/Jul/06 2nd O/S
adam carless 18/Jul/06 Lead O/S

More a route finding problem than anything else, which is odd given the name.

Hidden 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
GrahamHP 30/May/06 Lead O/S

Cold and wet

with Tony Walentowicz
Julia Chatterton 28/May/06 2nd
with Will
Rob Laird 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Elsier ?/Apr/06 2nd
with Stuart
Nobster ?/Apr/06 -
with Glen Bloomer
Hidden 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
richw2k2 09/Oct/05 Lead
with Sandra G
ewen ?/Sep/05 -
jfmchivall ?/Sep/05 -
Si dH 13/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

We moved right slightly at the rop, otherwise its seriously hard for 4c.

with Alan Dickinson
stuart100 09/May/05 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
lost.arrow 29/Apr/05 -
CurlyStevo ??/2005 Lead
paddymitton ??/2005 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/03 Lead
Urgles ?/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/03 2nd
aged_ape ?/May/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Paul-Michael 28/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Barry Wright
Hidden 02/Sep/02 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/02 Lead
Hidden 06/May/02 2nd
rockjedi12345 ?/Feb/02 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Stocker
Hidden 21/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/96 Lead
with Alan Nuttall
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/1985 -
with Helen Tideswell
Hidden 25/Mar/78 Lead
Hidden ??/1978 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
adam84, iksander, SurferStan, Hidden, David Wynne, Hidden, johnpr, Hidden, Hidden, JackMountains, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 56
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set